Tony D

Tim, I have done rockers like you did, the bodies were forgings from what I was told, and you just wanted to clean up the stress risers, and lighten the reciprocating end of the unit. These are very similar to Honda Rockers used in the 70's, and by lightening them the valvetrain stability with the stock springs was increased quite dramatically. Matter of fact, a set of rockers I lightened and polished in a 3Y 250CC Single OHC Honda went through three engines...owner kept swapping the cam and rockers from engine to engine! You just want your polishing marks to run longitudinally, and not across the beam. I recently had an opportunity to look at some cut apart pieces, and Nissan Surface Hardening goes deeper than most would think... But these rocers are Forged, so you're O.K. Looks Good. You can take a look at Mile's Setup, and take some more off the reciprocating end, his look a lot like what I reprofiled on the Hondas, and a few L's back in Japan.

In the Beginning, He created the world, and on the 7th day, God Created Boost...and then he raced.

That is the 'internal bypass port' I talk about continually, which others have said I'm crazy and which doesn't exist! That port, in conjunction with the 10mm line off the lower thermostat housing are what are in the system to prevent Water Pump Cavitation from a zero-flow situation before the thermostat cracks and allows flow to the radiator. If you rev the engine, the thermostat will open (it's only spring loaded) due to pressure buildup, but for idle warmup that passage and the one in the lower thermostat housing are the only way the water pump can circulate the coolant around the block without deadheading. IF YOU OPEN YOUR HEATER CORE CONTROL VALVE SLIGHTLY IT DOES THE SAME THING. People many times remove the external bypass, but a lot of them ignore this internal one---which usually is the only one that keeps the water pump from deadheading against the closed thermostat during warmup. If you have a F/O style setup, or external lines venting the head that bypasses the thermostat, these holes/bypasses are not required. And again, even if you don't, cracking your heater core will allow the flow and prevent water pump / water pump housing damage from deadheading during warmup.

The Japanese were routinely running 125mm exhaust systems on Twin-Turbo High-Horsepower (444Kw to the rear wheels) S30's in the 80's. Sure, 75mm Single or Twin 50mm was what all the N/A guys were running, but the Big Turbo Guys were fitting those sewer pipes under there... The only real tight spot is near the differential, really. Everyplace else you can fit just about anything else you want.

Geez, if that's the same 'Buffum' that was running a TR7 in the 76 POR WRC Rally, then yeah...I'd agree that photo was old! LOL (Same guy got more noteriety driving RX7's and an Audi Quattro later in his career!)

Have fun, guys. My flight leaves for Spa on Wednesday... This would have been a good road trip. Was looking forward to Sebring and Daytona in the Fairlady... But 'expenses paid to Spa' wins out over 'pay my own way to the Convention'... Heck, I even bought a new DSLR for photos! Somebody post lots of pictures! I figure I will, eventually.

I Can't believe this hasn't been said yet: "Man, I thought my silver car which is NA and runs mid 12's was fast, but DAMN, this car would eat my silver car for LUNCH, and DINNER at only 7 PSI." Feeeel the power of the dark side young Bryan. Feel the power, let it guide you, boost knows all, boost solves all, let it infuse through you and invite it into your soul! Bubbles, I am your Father! BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHAHA! BTW, JG Engine Dynamics did porting work on TC24B-1's back in the 90's, and was not impressed in total flow numbers, compared with their L-Heads (for the costs involved, and inability to make bigger numbers). They did several at that time. Yes, this is the shop that Edlebrock bought, and that all the Honda Guys Cream over. They did L-Engines years before anybody looked sideways at a Honda on the West Coast Performancewise. And I have personally been ferried around in an LY powered S30 here in SoCal. Matter of fact, the car drove from LA, to Vegas, and back, as well as participating in the ZCCA Convention there in 2000. I think...yep, he was back in 2004 for the ZCCA Convention that year as well...which is when all those High-Resolution Photos of the LY with the Red Valve Cover started circulating----right after I posted them fresh off my brandy-new Nikon Coolpix 4300!!! So yeah, there's been an LY here as well... Remember what I say: "Never Say Never, and there's always somebody faster, so what's the point (of boasting)?" Had to clarify that since some people have been misinterpreting that 'so what's the point' comment...

That only applies to Webers and other carbs with hollow Brass Floats. Mikuni, OER, SK, and Dellorto Sidedrafts all have composition floats, and have absolutely no issues with boost pressures above 2 bar (30psi). Webers with hollow brass floats usually start collapsing anywhere between 7 and 10+ psi. Seeing a car dyno 444Kw to the rear wheels on Mikuini Blowthroughs in 1986, I wonder if it was only the language barrier that held up development on this side of the pond...

O.K. I'll post the anecdote. I drove my 260Z from LA to ABQ for the convention. This car would get hot in the desert with a three core and a 160 thermostat if you were pushing 80+ mph in 110+ heat. What I noticed was that every time we stopped for gas, the car would 'puke over' from the overflow, and you could hear the steam popping in the coolant system after shutdown. All in all, I puked a whole gallon out in 1500 miles of driving. Fast Forward: Same Car, same everything, but going to Kingston Ontario for another convention. Decided to drain the coolant and replace with EG mix 50/50 and Water Wetter. It was simply 50/50 EG before, so the only difference was the addition of the WW. Now, knowing I used a gallon of top-up fluid in my 1500 mile run at ABQ, I decided to make up 2 gallons for the Canada Trip...and once there could refill those jugs for the trip back. I drive on with the water wetter in there, going up the Baker Grade on I15, the car starts to surge a little bit, but nothing like what we had the previous year when taking across the same stretch out of Barstow. My first fillup I'm interested to see that there is no 'pukeover' from my radiator. Concerned that I may have boiled a bunch out I relieve pressure and check again...radiator is full. Hmmmmm. Then I realized I didn't have any 'steam sounds' coming out of the thing, either. I start watching closer as I drive at altitude, across deserts, and at high rates of speed with the A/C on (110mph across Iowa, in 103 degree heat, with an interior temperature of 70 degrees A/C unit running full blast!!! Temperature on the gauge: left of center by a needlewidth!) During the whole trip never went past 190 degrees observed, and I didn't use a DROP of makeup fluid. The car just didn't 'puke over' after shutdown like it did before adding the Water Wetter. So I think the Water Wetter stuff does have an effect on heat transfer, and makes for more efficient cooling. I use it in all my cars now, and notice similar results. If it wasn't for the lack of pukeover (which the car WAS doing not a week before the trip when I was doing shakedowns and picking up the supplies to do the glycol change) I would not have made the connection between the ONE component in the system that had been changed. The heater connection near the back side of the head is just that: a heater connection, nothing more. It gives the heater a nice hot watersource before the thermostat opens, and as it's opening still has a good hot supply of water to feed the heater core. When the heater is off, there is no bypass function. During warmup, it does serve as a bypass IF the heater valve is activated to give heat to the cabin.

Some people take the doubler plates, and instead of putting the wheels beneath the legs, they install them out in front of the legs. This makes for a clearance equal to whatever the diameter is of your wheel... At the expense of the front wheels being fixed now, instead of being on casters. I, too, now have hard rubber wheels on mine. The originals I got were flatspotted from when they towed it out of the shop and put it on a trailer to the impound yard (mine is from an impound sale from an LAPD ChopShop Bust!) Hey, for $15 who cares if I had to replace the wheels!

Winston Wolfe... I liked him better in that Bridget Fonda Flick...where she's a female assassin. Comes as the same character, to clean. Guy is in a tub on the back porch, he starts pouring acid on him, and the guy starts flicking around. Annoyed he says: "Hey, this guy isn't dead!" then pops him with a small pistol from his jacket. He then proceeds to chastise the "Assassins" about their professionalisim and how it's not his job to do their job! Tarentino said he liked the character so much, he wrote the character into his flick! Now, get some rugs and blankets, to cover the blood...

Oh, sorry, 389# Fully Dressed isn't close enough for shipping purposes, you are absolutely correct. I'm sure the shipping company will need a much more detailed estimate of shipping weight that simply "450#"...

Watch the temp ratings of the coatings, the 2000 degree stuff is in limited colors...black dark blue or such. The white that was on JeffP's setup burned off, but the blue 2K degree stuff on his turbine housing has held up, and if you look at his webpage you can see that thing has been glowing red hot more times than I would care to think on the dyno runs (10 hours worth+!!!) and it's still held up and looks great.

Somebody didn't search first! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125246

You know, now I don't feel quite so bad buying the two when I did.... And there they sit, on a shelf...appreciating. Apparently 100% thusfar. Muahahahaha!

The ZX is Different. I made a template off my Fairlady ZX for someone, but they never came to pick it up at a car show... I guess I could measure them again if you're interested. BTW, the S30's DID have electric mirrors available starting Late 75 when the cars got EFI. The Fairlady Z-E got electric mirrors and electric windows as optional equipment. The mirrors may not have been so optional... You would have to check the original brochures. I have a '51' 2/2 Z-S model and it came with standard non-power mirrors. The Z-L would have had the Electric Windows and the Power Mirrors.

Fully 9 of the photos on that linked page are mine, taken and published by me and not a single credit given... Every time that site shows up, it still irks me. Common courtesy would be to show sourcing of the photos at least. Or say the photos were all stolen...something is better than nothing. As for the single carb 320HP setup, they show up on E-Bay from time to time. If done properly, they have drivability better than the N/A 4 Bbl Conversions. And with modern turbochargers applied instead of the original A/R's and Trims, they can perform even better than you think!

Apple Country, Water Pump Trashed, same thing. Life intrudes on Hobbies, dammit! My wife decided since Granny Smiths were not available in Oak Glen for another two weeks, that we were not going up there today... In two weeks, I will be in Spa at the FIA Group 4 Event...she can have her apples then! I will be getting my dose of petrol fumigation! Muahahaha!

Kieth Bailey has one, and drove it from NC to Syracuse getting 40+ mpg at speeds in excess of the legal limit... The top speed is limited to around 112/115mph with a 3.7 gear and later ZX Gearbox, you will turn 4750rpms at 125 if I recall, and the Diesel will only crank powerfully around 4000. With a 3.36 stock rear end, the horsepower shortfall from the NA LD28 limits you to just over 100 mph from what he said. The 3.7 would be the 'performance' gearset allowing fastest time to top speed...if that is what you are looking for in a diesel. Crank vampires is overstating it a bit, the Forklift Diesels are available in abundance, and they are preferrable to the Maxima units because they have already installed a rear-sump configuration oil pan and pickup. And if you source the LD28T from a forklift (or the Euro Vehicles that came with them) then you end up with something like 96HP+, which is more than enough to make the diesel comparable in top speed with most stock petrol cars, performing better at some things. Kieth took his oil-burning 240Z on to the slalom track at Syracuse which was very tight and twisty---his time was VERY competitive with cars having much more HP... The diesel grunted and torqued out of corners belching black smoke and making time where the Petrol Cars simply floundered till they got up into the rpm range. As for 'never hearing a diesel that sounded that decent' go take a vacation in Europe and see if your thoughts don't change. My ride in the Alfa Romeo Taxicab from Malpensa Airport at well over 170KPH had me asking the driver "Petrol?"----to which he replied "No, Diesel!" Our technology in the USA regarding passenger car diesels is woefully behind the times, retarded in large part by governmental meddling.

Flat Slide Lucas Mechanical Injection EFI conversions are out there as well. An iris would be pretty complex, and hard to seal tightly...as well as being very prone to fouling. Normally for competition, the easier and more robust the mechanisim, the better. But a simple sliding blade (Flatslide) setup does exist, and offers the 'no restriction barrel' at WOT.

You beat me to it, I was coming back with the 'delete key' hot... JPL is a sore spot for me, if you didn't catch that! But my foggy was nice, eh? I smile every time I see it!

I have cut into fuel hoses on cars stored for years and they still had fuel pressure in them to spray my face... If it's bleeding off that fast, there is another problem...FPR or Check Valve in the pump are the usual culprits. "Stuck Open Injector" is usually the exact opposite of what happens to them, though occasionally the odd Cold-Start Injector will fail...but since it's removed... Also remember that if the fuel pump is shutting off before the engine's ignition/injection system is shut off, it can bleed down fuel pressure very quickly indeed. It happens...on early cars with the AFM Mounted Fuel Pump Contacts and a low idle situation, it can happen quite often!

I agree with ZCarnut, walnut shells are best used in a pressure pot. For a siphon blaster the best I have found for walnut-shell gentleness is Ballotini Glass Beads at fairly low pressure, like 40-60 psi. If I recall, I may have tried Walnut Shells at 100+ psi through the gun, but the siphon orifices of my smaller unit just weren't big enough to give the blasting like my pressure pot gun. The volume of the shells is considerably greater with that setup than through my siphon rig. And yes, walnut will not leave residues that will be harmful if you don't clean them up and get everything out afterwards. Walnut is a VERY gentle cleaning medium, if you were marking plastic, chances are you are using pressure much too high, with insufficient media flow. Walnut shells should be able to clean plastic like tail light lenses and leave a bright finish on them afterwards. Are your feed lines clean? You have have contaminants mixed in with the media flow that marked the plastic, the walnut shells should not do it unless the plastic was really soft, and the presure on medi feed was very very high.

Damn, and I was in Stockton on Thursday...

A little ADDHD are we, guys? My screen says 'posted one day ago' and already two posts asking for updates... Wouldn't '1 day ago' constitute Sunday Morning at the earliest? Sheez! Talk about impatient... He does have a life, ya know! Maybe it's time to take his wife out to Apple Country instead of working on the car...