Tony D

US Specification Vehicle? ;^P How about 'away from the valve cover'... 'Left' Fenderwell.

Frank has a 77 280Z complete and rostfroi (oooh, am I learning, or what?) sitting in my back yard waiting for shipment, as well as his bud Ad having a 70 (four digit VIN) waiting for the same shipping container. The Netherlands has gotten at least 7 Unrusted S30 Chassis, and one S130 Chassis in the past two years. Most of them either from my back yard (4)! The comment after acid dipping was 'this looks like a 3 year old BMW Chassis!' I agree, look in person. Failing having a connection to ship you a car from abroad (they do come in tax free due to age...) you have to settle for what you can get. "I've seen worse!"

I can bring up a 240 and drop it off. Rough, but complete...do you want a 70 or 71? LOL

It took me 8 hours to make a harness from scratch. You can buy it 95% completed save for terminations for $65... I know what I would do. There is no reason the MS would take you 'months' to get running again. Unless you did something like me, and use a bad Laptop, solder the joints cold a few places, and...oh yes, have a car with an intermittent early-model CAS that would go for 45 minutes before going out intermittently... If the car is running, MS will make it better. If it's not, chances are itwon't solve your issues if you are using the same electrical system causing you problems now. If you have verified the ancillary components, and it's down to the ECU, then a replacement MS will take a few hours of installation and another couple on tuning. Drivability will be like night and day compared to a new functioning ECCS system.

Ron was supposed to call me back about a compound supercharged / turbocharged setup I was getting a cam for...didn'tget a call, got to call back today. Generally, the same mods for a N/A will work for a supercharged car, but exhaust duration should be a little longer because you have more in there to let out, and you move opening/closing events to minimize duration overlap to prevent the positive pressure in the intake manifold from blowing out the charge into the exhaust. Adding a turbo to a S/C setup makes for some more wierd valve events, and those specifics are what Im waiting for him to get back to me on now. I already know the events for JeffP's straight turbo setup, and I'm curious to see what changes he will make for the compound compression giving more torque down low. Will prove to be interesting.

The cuts would resemble either a triangle or a hexagon depending on how you paired stuff up.

Got a 20# CO2 next to the oven, along with a similarly sized Illegal to refill Halon unit. I can't count the #5 Dry Chemical units I have everywhere else. The location for the two biggies is because from the front yard, or the back yard, a quick spring into the house will net me the big ones...centrally located exactly between the front and back doors! I think I have an old Soda-Water extinguisher out in the container as well...but it's just for lookin' at...

Yep, that's why I tell people to try to limit the S30's to 350 hp...I had the same issue with only about 350 to the rear wheels, and ended up running 265's out back to keep hooked! A light car like the S30just plain GETS when you got roll on torque like that! Video kind of reminds me of some of the "Wangan Midnight" movie scenes.... "VOOOOSH! GONE!" LOL Nice photos above as well. Nice, nice, nice!

Yeah, I don't think it was a metal gasket they used, more a conventional fiber gasket, but same setup.

I'd agree. I think I saw this other post, and replied there as well. If a CAS was suspect, I'd more figure it would be a miss, not a failure to advance. That is the sole function of the ECU's Programming.

Welll, I can always bring the trailer and help relieve you of that nasty, old, broken down Bonneville Racer! LOL Thanks for the info on the LD Pump, that is some interesting information.

Have you talked with Isky? They have stuff in that range. Ron tends to use a lot of lift comparatively with less duration. Gives a very nice all around engine. On your Nissan Core the out the door price is around $180. Not an El Inka $25 regrind for sure...but something that will work!

If the CAS was bad, the timing wouldn't work at all IMO. The Computer changes timing based on inputs like RPM and AFM resistance. The ECU may be funky, I don't see how a CAS failing (failure mode would be to drop out signals and not get a spark) would cause timing not to move. Misfiring, yes, timing change is totally inside the ECU.

New means New. JeffP orderd it from Nissan, it was not cheap! If you know the one you are pinning hasn't slipped and will line up properly I don't see why you couldn't pin a used one. That's what I'm running.

250 at 050 sounds more like it. I have had four cylinders engines with 304 and 310 degree cams in them, and 325 is NOT a 'street cam' by any stretch of the imagination! I recall my bud with a Toyota who installed some TRD 310/304 duration cams in his 2TG, then went through his carburettors several times since 'it must have a vacuum leak or something, I can't get it to idle below 1700 rpm'...just by chance during the conversation he talked about no brake booster action, and having the 5Kg Flywheel on it and stalling at every stop sign and I said: "Did you put in the TRD Cams?" Uh, yeah, why? "Uh, er...Dude, you got 310/304 duration cams with 14mm lift, I'm suprised you got it to run at 1700!" Sometimes 'building it from parts' just doesn't end up being the fantasy we think it will be...top it off, the guy is 50+ and is complaining about in town drivability with the setup. :Rolls Eyes: And it has to use carburettors, Megasquirt will not be installed "just because"... :Rolls Eyes Again: Some people's kids...can't beat em...can't shoot em! LOL

I really need to make it up there to see that beast. Those Hobbs Switches look all to familiar! LOL

Like the Governator Said: "I'll be back!" If I have phone numbers, I can usually call when I'm in the area. I get up here on business now and again...and talking Z's beats the four walls at the Holiday Inn Express in Lodi...Madera...Tracy...Stockton...Oakland...well, you get the idea! LOL

AHHHHH! yes, the good old threaded hex plugs in the top of the head. totally forgot about those. hell, let's go DEVAS on the valves, and then we can use those threaded holes for the upper water gallery! LOL

Good Point! I know we watched JeffP's tires move forward in the wheelwells during dyno sessions. The ONLY thing that could be causing that in his car is trailingarm flex---his subframe is solid-bushed, and when he made the bushings, he moved the wheels BACK in the wheelwell almost 1/2"--and we were measuring close to 3/8" deflection! Trailing arm flex may indeed be causing something there with your instantaneous torque loadings. If the wheels were binding against the body, there should be some clear evidence...

I think the squat is somewhat overblown. If a VW Bus Transaxle and CV joint can handle full sand Paddla-Traks behind a Hilborn Injected Chevy with a suspension that squats probably 30 degrees when digging in...a 15 degree squat on a ZX should be more than managable. Sure, you can up the spring rate, or even damp the hell out of it with shock valving...but a CV should not experience any different loading at 30 degrees of angularity than at 0 degrees (if properly clearanced). Really, the Tripod Style Axles are known to break on N/A Powered S30's with good hook at drag races...so going CV is the only step left. To make them survive all you need do is clearance the cages like the VW guys have been doing for decades. With a clearanced CV Cage, and properly clearanced axle ends, they should be able to hold all torque from 0 to about 30 degrees. Some of the really articulated cars will look to have near 45 degrees offset in some circumstances. Look to the transaxle on Spencer Lowe's old off-road truck and you will see plenty of CV angularity and 'squat' with gobs of torque transmitted and shock loadings to boot. That is the way I'd go---clearance a REAL CV, and not try to make the Tripods Work. I believe Frank 280ZX has installed a complete Z31 Subframe (five lugs and all) into his 79ZX, and I have seen both Z32 and Skyline Subframes under S130's. I do have photos of some of these setups taken in 2004 from the 'japanese contingent' at the National Z-Con, but won't have access to them till the weekend. PM Me with an e-mail addy if you want me to shoot you some photos. Frank 280ZX posted some of the conversion photos somewhere...don't know if they were here, classiczcars, or zdriver galleries. But they are online.

The 280ZXT is a 'tripod' joint, not a CV. For a true CV style, you have to go to at least a Z31 "Double Offset Birfield Joint" in Nissanspeak... The Tripods ARE stronger than the U-Joints. Seems the problem isn't the joint that is breaking (as the trunnion in a U-Joint would shatter), it's now the next weakest link: Axle Shafts away from the Tripod. I have seen this in L6 Powered cars as well if they hook. Could be a stress crack. Were the axles/joints magnafluxed, Zyglo Inspected, or even spot-chek'd before installation to be sure no cracks at the radius were present?

Lag is overblown. My Datalogging with the Megasquirt shows lag to be imperceptibleonce boost threshold is attained. My WOT line traces almost like a digital switch to full boost from vacuum. Most 'lag' is really from improper driving below boost threshold. I think the setup has deminimus effects from the piping route chosen. For the available horsepower goals, I would be suprised that the effects will be noticable at all. Given the numbers KTM calculates, in the real world they mean 'nothing'...this is a theoretical argument at this point, and I will lay money that in the real world of operation, the setup will function flawlessly. Regardless of what theoretical improvement might be available.

LOL BTW, Sac'to guys...I'm in the Tracy Holiday Inn Express tonight only! One night only, and I'm off to Vegas in the A.M.! WOO HOO! I get to try and snag tickets to 'Spamalot'....

The Anime pales in comparison to seeing the real world SSS car running the Wangan realtime...with real sounds! Now if they transfer the original movie sounds to the Anime... But that blue flame from the 125mm Tailpipe on lift-throttle....ahhhh! Memories! My HKS Type 2 should be showing up any time now...waiting, waiting, waiting...

I would posit many people who run 1/4 mile at a time probably won't encounter this issue with cooling, but people who are really hammering on it for full load dyno sessions, track events, and high speed contests where the engine is running WOT for minutes at a time will benefit from addressing this issue. Those are some nice cutaways, people can really see what is going on in there. I would say that with a -4 NPT or -6 NPT hole at the indicated point you would have access to the interior of the head to attack some of that flash with a carbide burr and knock some holes in it to allow steam entrapped below the flash to escape...