Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Just got my notification, my HKS Type 2 Surge Tank will be in the transit stage from Japan later on this week! FINALLY after many years of looking I got one to mate with the period correct HKS ITB's that have been sitting in the storage shed now for....er....several years!
My project may finally have enough supplies in stock to actually start doing something!
WOO HOO!
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Yeah, got to chime in with Auxilliary and say once you convert your engine to diesel, you're one of the few REALLY exempt classes of vehicles out there!
Theearly cars are not required to bi-annually test, but they are required to comply with emissions. A diesel conversion is only one of two ways I know of to truly make your car 'exempt' from Emissions Compliance in California. The third would be to give your car to the state so they could use it as a municipal vehicle...cop cars, school busses, Water Department Vehicles, they are all 'exempt' from the smog check requirement due to 'undue financial burdens placed on municipalites with fleets of vehicles... What because they own a lot of vehicles they get a pass? I got 20+ cars, where do I get MY 'exemption' for all MY fleet vehicles???
I digress...
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Springs are usually internal bypasses to keep the filter element from collapsing under some flow conditions (idiots that rev their engines cold comes immediately to mind) chances are good the 'orange thing' you see is indeed a silicone anti-drainback valve. There should be a manufacturers website you can directly reference for information on wether there is an anti-drainback valve or not.
I got into researching some of this when I worked at a filter supply company---there are some air compressor filters with about 2X the filter media capacity (and better micronic filtration rating), and similar bypass valve arrangements, but alas they didn't have the anti-drainback valve---and that is important when the filter contains almost 2.5 QUARTS of oil, mounted to the side of a block. For remotes with the screw on portions pointing up it's not a big deal, but I didn't feel like adding remotes to my car at this time...
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Skew the reading the ECU sees manually with a pot or variable resistor in parallell with the sensor. You can put enough bias so it comes out of cold-start virtually any place you want, but you will have to experiment...
The best way is to rig it up, and then do the resistance check at the pin-out at the ECU. Basically run it up till your temperature stabilizes, then shut down, disconnect the ECU Connector, put your multimeter on the two pins relating to coolant temperature, and twist the variable resistor till the resistance reads equivalent to 180+ degrees F. That will make it out of cold-start mode at normal operating temperature.
Also, for trimming fuel under boost, you can can by adding one in series tweak and put the engine into cold-start mode while under boost to add more fuel...
Also, the stock gauge in the dash is very unreliable, verify your temperature with something like a Wal-Mart Meat Thermometer stuck in the radiator while you're warming up.
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Yes, the flapper JeffP is mentioning is referred to in the Oil Filter Business as an 'Anti Drainback Valve' and functions exactly as JeffP says: holds the filter full so you have no 'accumulator to fill' before building pressure int he system.
The Nissan Filters do have an Anti-Drainback Valve, some premium filters boast of 'silicone anti-drainback valves' which seal more positively and tend to not harden in the heat inherent in the oil system.
Not all filters that 'fit' are proper as designed. Many industrial filters do NOT have the drainback valve in them as for remote field servicing they don't want oil held in the filter to drain all over the equipment. An Atlas Copco GA160 Air Compressor has three spin on filters that go threaded side DOWN...if you had an anti-drainback in there, a gallon and a half of oil (hot, searing Air Compressor Oil, 215 degrees F) would be waiting to shower your groin area as you spun them off!
But on a Nissan L, you want an Antidrainback valve, for the aformentioned reasons.
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Surging and backfiring is usualy the sign of a lean mixture. If your injector connectors are not clean at either end, they can build up enough resistance that the injector pulsewidth starts dropping out or not firing at all and you backfire/surge/buck, etc.
Cleaning the electrical connections is beneficial in general, but make sure you use dielectric on the connectors when you reassemble them so Oxygen doesn't quickly recorrode them. Seems the Nissan Connectors were great for 20 years (er...) and then once cleaned, you have to go back repeatedly to keep them that way!
The AFM may be in operation under boost, but only at lower rpms and lower flows. So that isn't out---or more aptly the connectors on it aren't out.
YOu can run the tests in the FSM for all the sensors and circuits relating to the ECCS in about 45 minutes---it really narrows down where you may have a problem sensor/harness/component, and since you are pulling the plugs at the ECU anyway why not check?
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Dragonfly, you read my mind!
First thing I thought about when looking at that photo was "Gas Door"
Change the gas door to something more in line with the rounder lines of the car now---a motorcycle filler cap in a round or oblong configuration would work...or you could relocate it to the top of the quarter or conceal it in the trunk. Hiding it behind a swing-out tail lamp would be a lot of work....but.....
I'd not have sidemarkers on it at all. If it came to it, nothing more than a recessed LED in the "Hirschberg Bulge" below the lighting panel would be as far as I would go.
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Yes, making a Leakdown tester is not a big deal, regulator, couple of gauges, calibrated orifice, and a sacrificial plug adapter from an old compression tester...
But for the cost of one at Harbor Freight, why bother?
I have bought several of the 'test' items from HF recently, and generally toss the gauges and replace them at a much higher cost with Ashcroft Mirrored-Gauge or Liquid Filled Units available through local vendors. I trust an Ashcroft that I can send out to be recalibrated occasionally much more than the HF Chinese Gauges.
My leakdown tester was originally for Lycoming Engines, and then cruising through Aircraft Spruce one day found an automotive plug adapter, so dug it out of storage and it's been used more and more often recently.
Really upset me seeing a Leakdown Tester at Harbor Freight...knowing how much I paid for my unit even 15-20 years ago....it's STILL cheaper today from them. But I digress...
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Woo Hoo! Shake and Bake!
Sorry, couldn't help it...
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but now when i'm getting up it sputters, surges, cuts out...whatever you want to call it.
Not really, spend some effort and tell us exactly what it's doing specifically. Cutting out means something totally different to me than surging, and sputtering. Really, what do you call it? Is it like someone turns off the key, then turns it back on rapidly...
Or is it like someone turns off the key and leaves it off, turning it back on after a brief pause?
Or is it acting like someone is pushing on the gas pedal on and off rapidly(or conversely, like someone holding the throttle pedal steady and pumping the brake pedal on and off)?
Or is it popping out the intake? What noises do you hear? Any smells?
Vague descriptions lead to guesses that don't help you figure it out at all. Not trying to flame anybody, but it really is what you call it that will determine what the diagnosis or SWAG will be in reply.
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Oh, I am diseaased...
I want to give those as gifts!
I know someone who races a B110, and that A12 setup is just too cool!
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How come I think in Ray's application the 300ZX cable will not be 'long enough' nor the 'perfect length'...
Why do I think Ray's 'engine swap' will require a throttle cable that will stretch from the firewall to the alternator region....
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Define "Major Modification"
I didn't find it 'major' in the leat bit, thought the caveat I noted (amperage) will call for quality relays controlling it, as well as a good charging system.
There are some Taurus fans that are not configured like the 3.8L V6 unit, and I can't speak to their fittment. Getting the damned thing out of the Ford Chassis was harder than installing it in my Z!
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Agreed! Magnetic Particle Inspection is the thing to do when it's apart, and BEFORE you go any further with modifications.
Nothing sucks worse than to put a bunch of hours into hand-prepping something only to have it magcheck and find a crack!
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I agree, I saw a setup like the photographed Lokar on a 240 this weekend that had a NEO RB25 in it.
That guy bought his cable from Kragen Auto Parts, and got the small piece on the end from a local place in Anaheim called McKinney Motorsports---the thing that got me was it clipped on the STOCK bellcrank ball! And since it was a 'double allen screw clamp' onto the throttle cable he had, you could basically use that piece all by itself to convert ANY throttle cable from a junkyard to your Z without ANY modifications whatsoever to your bellcranks, throttle pedal, etc.
I will be going in to McKenzies tomorrow to see what I missed when there in April with Frank280ZX (was picking up a Fuel Cel Rollover Valve)
I want some of those endpieces, I need to convert my son's 510 to cable, and that 'not modifying anything else' appeals to me!
BTW, the "Universal Throttle Cable Kit" at my local A-Z is $24, but grabbing the throttle cable from whatever you grab your T/B from would work with the little chingaderis on the end, there!
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If you guys really want to run lean, put a big heavy flywheel on it! That dampens out the surging quite a bit.
The only reason I say this is because I would run mileage marathons in the late 70's and early 80's and we would jet so lean it wasn't funny! One of the things we would do is clearance the bellhousing and bolt on almost a double inertia ring to smooth out the engine from 'lean surge'...
At that time, if you have EGT, and a vacuum gauge, you were right up with the OEM's in terms of sophisticated instrumentation! LOL
I mean, we had a daily driven Karmann Ghia running a 1641cc engine that would turn in 35+mpg in the city, 45+ on the freeway, and during the competitions we would break 50mpg!
Obsession with maximum mileage is nothing new, we thought 68 cents per gallon going to $1.41 in a three month period was obnoxious as well. To remember that, and look at the prices today...well I can't get excited, it took a year plus to 'double'...
But I digress.
More on topic, I agree that the "Failure mode" of the OEM's is rich, as it's safe. The O2 on an OEM will rarely compensate more than 10% of total fuel. With the new MAF setups it's more biased on mass-flow through the engine than the older AFM style setups, so O2 can be set up for a wider correction to fuel---but it's almost always (matter of fact I don't know any OEM that is otherwise) Rich to Lean. The O2 sensor will correct to stoich and that is PURELY a function of proper catalyst function!
There has to be enough unburned HC to keep the catalyst bed hot enough to scrub the exhaust stream. You can easily lean out the mixture far more (if you aren't running catalyst) and make plenty clean emissions if you incorporate good old fashioned A.I.R. in the exhaust manifold! I piped my 73 with SU's clean to 83 Catalyzed standards with Lean-Misfire adjusted carbs half a turn out, and utilizing AIR injection...
From what most ECU Manufacturer's reps say for cruise portions of the map---if you are catalyzed tune for Stoich, and for anywhere else outside the EGO parameters tune for peak torque (peak HP) which is usually 11-13:1 AFR. For fuel mileage and best power, this seems to work VERY well. If you are not catalyzed, tuning to the point just on the verge of lean-surge would be counterproductive as the O2 will correct to stoich. Really for fuel mileage you would not want the O2 to correct to stoich---you would use one of the WBO2's and shoot for a targeted switching point (unless you have target af-maps...) and then simply program for target AFR's in the incipient lean-surge area during most cruise conditions, and peak torque outside that...
say anything below 40% throttle opening, and MAP from 0 to 50Kpa, rpms bins between 1700 and 3600 (or wherever you are at highway cruise depending on tire height and gearing).
My wife's Frontier gets 20mpg when she drives on the interstate, I get 16...
She is running along at 75mph, and is totally in closed loop at 3000 to 3200 rpms. When I'm driving, I'm right on that switchover point where Nissan goes open-loop at 3500. Frustrating as hell because the truck pulls just fine, and even if it IS coming on to the cam at 3500, putting the O2 correction to 3700 would probably make my extra 5-10mph just as thrifty as my wife's feather foot!
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Ever notice the LD28 Crank has a dowel hole in the end?
If anybody is really slamming the clutch hard, I'd recommend dowelling the flywheel to crankshaft BEFORE balancing, and using an 'offset' dowel pattern, that way the flywheel only goes on one way: the way it was balanced! Three .250" or .375" Dowels in a 120 degree offset pattern between bolts should pin it just fine. You could use 6 .250" Offset one dowel half a diameter off from the geometric index (Similar to the SPG Dowel Pattern used on VW Engines).
The dowels take a lot of the shear worries out of the bolts, and stop a lot of the shear that causes the loctite to fracture, or loosen the bolts.
Just a thought...
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Well, since it's back up, I'll add my .02 and say I never liked a single fan for anything. I put dual 10" units on...
Chances of two fans failing when controlled through separate relays is pretty remote.
Though the 3.8L Taurus Fan is a nice unit, looks stock, is cheap at the JY, and can be replaced at any Ford Dealership...
Beware, though, it MOVES air, and will draw 30 Amps when running.
There is no free lunch, you want a good fan, you will draw amps.
And I figure the Ford OEM unit is at least 'OEM Torture Tested' so figure it will be 100K reliable...
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With the port geometry that this matching cylinder head is reciving, I have actually found on my flow bench that injecting at a side angle has a turbulant flow, and atomizes better. Atleast thats what my wet flow says. I have tried it in engines, and seems to work well. Is there any difference HP wise, who knows, but it looks good in therory and wet testing.
Actually, that is what many engineering studies say as well. Some papers from Ford discussed a tangental injection impinging on the wall of the port somewhere around a 5 degree angle.
After reading that, I realized my original 'SU Conversion' idea of making a stalk and injecting from the air cleaner at an angle down the throat may have been a heluva lot easier than what I ended up doing in the first prototypes....
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The wall thickness on the LD Runners will allow Extrude-Honing to a consistent 36mm diameter from plenum to head flange surface---no taper to speak of, but you can get them Extrude-Bored to a consistent 36mm diameter.
My measurements were similar to Older-than-Me's dimensions.
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I got my plasma cutter from a secure worksite when I bet the Project Engineer his security sucked so bad, I could load up anything I wanted and drive right out with it.
He bet me whatever I could load that I couldn't.
Went to my truck, wheeled over a Century Plasma Cutter to the back, and asked a couple of guys to come over an help me load it in the truck (I could see the lead engineer agog in disbelief!)
Drove right out the front gate and the guard waved to me!
I DID bring it back the next day...but the guy refused to accept it back! He said he was going to write it off as a 'Security Consultants Fee' against the project...then went out and reamed everyone about site security pointing to my truck saying "Anybody remember that truck from yesterday?"
Thing is, I don't have wiring for the damn thing, so it's sit since I unloaded it at the house. But for the price...I'm not complaining! When I use them at worksites, I get all worked up to wire the circuit...but honeydews usually divert me...
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Steel is what they call the most recycled metal...
it's lack of prevention techniques, coupled with thin metal which speeds perforation, plain and simple.
GM stopped buying USX product in the 80's because Roger Smith found the studies showed the Japanese Steel was in every way comparable, but at close to 60% of the cost. There was a well-publicized meeting where Roger told the head of USX at the time "GM wants to use American Steel, but for the cost, and the quality, we will have to make some hard decisions to keep our shareholders happy in regards to supplier costs!"
In other words: Make better steel, or make it cheaper, but one way or the other we aren't buying it just because we've always bought from you!
American cars to the mid 70's used Cross-Sectional Thickness as the primary corrosion 'prevention' method. Just make the sheetmetal thicker, and it takes longer to rust perforate. Some MBA and Accountant conspired a Cost-Benefit-Analysis and foudn it was cheaper to use steel than to make it thinner (with those costs of tearing in complex dies, etc) and corrosion treat it.
As galvanic treatments decreased in cost, and deposition technology advanced---as well as CAFE got stricter and vehicles were pressed to be lighter to meet CAFE, the metals got thinner.
in the 50's, hell you just put thick sheetmetal on and it took 5 years to rust through.
Itwasn't until the 80's that US MAnufacturer's changed that philosophy.
The Z's Philosophy was of lightest possible weight, hence the thin sheetmetal. It was rumored eraly protptypes had issues with metal buckling because it was SO thin, and as a result the gauge thickness was INCREASED!
Different Engineering Goals, and Philosophies.
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Yeah, it looked like there was a lot of clearance... I know a 3" is REAL tight through there---it's considerably easier with smaller piping. I figured it was a long day making an exhaust from mandrel bends, so that confirms it for me---thanks for the update! For guys saying 'oh, you can make one under $450...when you start figuring parts sure...maybe. But add in honest labor time, and you start seeing 'no such thing as a free lunch!' LOL
I see you thought about the time at least once...he he he!
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Generally connecting rod bearing wear is on the top bearing, letting the clearance increase as the engine wears.
That is why things go boom when rod bolts start stretching....
Storing and shipping cranks and cams
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
What I use is ABS or PVC Heavywalled Pipe. I place a slovent-glued cap on one end, with some jigsawed pieces of plywood in the end for impact dampening. Take another, and three-bolt it to the flywheel end, and it centers the crankshaft in the tube, same thing on the other end with a centrally located hole for the crankshaft pulley bolt it locates it on the other end. On the pulley end, I install a 'screw cap' end and of course the plywood for when someone drops it. I set the screw in the cap using a single sheetmetal screw so it doesn't back out in shipment.
usually I will prep them with cosmoline, or other grease. With the PVC, I drop a dessiccant bag in there, and cork it up tight. No Oxygen and slightly light volatile solvents on a freshly sprayed crank makes for the perfect storage environment. Ideally both would be stored perpendicular to the floor. For this you can make a nice rack out of plywood (hint, the one you have been cutting 6 and 8" circles out of for your cranks!) and 2X6's that will hold them upright.
Same thing for camshafts, some 2" PVC Fittings and one stick of Schedule 40 PVC and you are SET! Same storage routine, but I use dowels in the ends and center the cam in the tube with 'donuts' of high-density pink anti-static foam I get from work (we use it to ship turbine impeller assemblies).
When I ship the stuff, I usually enclose a return shipping label, prepaid and then grind on whomever I shipped it to until they ship it back to me. They saw how I made mine, dammit, don't be cheap make your own and gimmie mine BACK! LOL
If you have the facility, a wrap of cosmoline impregnated cheesecloth tightly wrapped around it, and then put in the plastic bag foamed into a box like sweetleaf mentions is also a way to do it. I prefer to put one trashbag underneath with foam, lay the part in while it's expaned most of the way, then put more expanding foam in another bag, and lay it on top and close the boxtop with a place for excess foam to burp out. That way you only open a clamshell to get to the part instead of having to carve that foam sh*t up all over...
The PVC Pipes have been pretty durable. I think if I surface freighted one like that and the ship went down, when they salvaged it they could still deliver the crankshaft! LOL
For longterm storage, always try to put a little bag of dessiccant in anything you seal up tightly---humidity can do bad things to parts in storage when corked up well!