Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Ben has a good point in that Lucas Slide Valves have been used on Datsun Sixes for years in Europe. No obstruction whatsoever. The flow difference is pretty dramatic. When you look at the flow numbers for the Lumenition Barrel Throttle Assemblies a 45mm unit flows comparably to a 48mm Butterfly, but has (due to the way they machine the tip-in section of the barrel) tip-in characteristics of a 40mm Butterfly unit to about 25% throttle. It's suprisingly non-linear on the opening! Makes for a nicely modulated throttle off-idle.
For all out, a Slide Valve or Barrel Throttle is current state of the art for Aftermarket systems.
Of course, with the DEVAS system, infinitely adjustable valve timing would negate the necessity for a throttle plate altogether. All throttling would be accomplished through valve events.
Don't get me started! LOL
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Plenty of information on DIY injector cleaners at the Bowling and Grippo site (megasquirt inventors) as well as the Cosworth Vega website...
http://www.cosworthvega.com/Articles/InjectorTester/Homemade%20Injector%20Cleaner.htm
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I know the NISMO cover is actually CHEAPER than the OEM "pumpkin cover" that the earlier cars came with! They were pretty cheap last time I checked, something like $75 or so....The OEM Pumpkin Cover was over 100$...
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somewhere around 36 psi at idle, and 40-42psi at WOT (sensor line off the FPR at idle), after you go onto boost, the pressure will stabilize at Boost+WOT pressure, so at 10psi boost, you will have 50-52psi fuel pressure.
From that, you see that people boosting much more than 12psi are running really close to deadheading the pump. Given there IS a pressure drop from the pump to the front of the car (even in the ZX!), what you read at the fuel rail may be a much as 5psi LOWER than what is at the pump!!!
Larger lines help...but there is a thing as overkill. For high pressure lines, the flow they can support is pretty outrageous. It's not like you only have 3psi to push the stuff through there as in Carburetted Applications...
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The solid temp sensors are pretty much impervious to vibration, the open element units may be a bit more sensitive, though.
There is the 'response' argument on open element -v- solid sensor as well, but for most applications I don't think the lag in response is that dramatic---especially in the case of a well designed solid sensor.
I went with solid sensor instead of open element for that reason. If I start seeing a lag in temperatures compared to my J-Thermocouple Reader, I'll consider changing...until then, solid sensor for me!
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Looks the same at the 280z. Could be fromt the 80-81 turbo versions, before they went CAS in the dizzy.
They look the same as all the other Turbos in North America.
81 Turbo ECCS unit looks the same as an 82/83 ECCS unit.
Chances are since the car is from Texas, that it's an EFI N/A box, and not a JDM or Euro Turbo Box. I would put that at somewhere along the 99.9999999th percentile
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No. It's not the turbo ecu. Turbo 280ZX ecu's have three connectors.
Uh, uh, uh! In the NORTH AMERICAN MARKET, the Turbo ECU has multiple connectors. In Europe that is EXACTLY what the turbo ecu looks like! no difference other than part number differentiation.
The Multiple-Connector is ECCS, the single connector is EFI. European Z's got an EFI system with their turbos (as did JDM), only the USA got ECCS.
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With a common throttle shaft how can you accurately adjust the butterfly's(think synchronize) for consistant idle or is this mostly for racing at WOT? Without a procedure for butterfly adjustment I don't think this method would be to good for a street prepped car.
Don't tell BMW!
The setup is similar to Eggers & Vickers Mechanical FI Manifolds from the 70's. Also similar to Knisler and Hilborn setups. Everything you need for making that manifold is available from Kinsler.
Synchronisation is not a problem, the throttles should be set to be closed, and with milled flats on a properly sized throttle shaft, deflection or bending of the shaft should never be an issue. The turning torque of those even with a 24" shaft is really not that much. If you are smart, instead of turning it from one end, you install a throttle quadrant in the middle to actuate the common shaft. This makes no untoward torsional requirements on the shaft end-to end compared to turning it from either end. Especially if one sticks for some reason.
Idle Air Bypass is done with a separate manifold and IAC Motor for best control of idle speed. Cracking six throttles open for idle speed control looses 1-3% resolution on the TPS map and you don't need/want that.
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Similar here, stock Nissan Gasket, 21psi, with daily running at 17-18psi no problems in probably close to 60K miles.
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How long do you plan on staying at the critical speed?
Harmonics are also referred to as a 'critical speed' and in most rotating machinerly has first, second and third critical speeds. Normally engineering of the machine will have the machine operate below any of the critical speeds. In cases where this is not possible, acceleration through the critical speed as quickly as possible is normally done to minimize the effects of the harmonics.
Unless you are running at Bonneville, and severely miscalculate your gearing and tire sizes so you are AT the critical near your terminal speed, you will accelerate through the speed with no ill effects.
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The ZXT FPR will not regulate to 60 psi, it regulates to far less than that. Sounds like you have a restricted return line, and you simply are running on your internal relief valve...
Eventually your pump will either overheat or simply burn out.
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Stock fuel pump deadheads at 60psi. So you will have pressure, just no flow to the injectors.
The internal relief lifts at that point...
Stay to the 45psi WOT manifold referenced signal. Makes pulsewidths longer for better control of idle, and shorter for better resolution at full load.
You can also trim the injector capacity somewhat using a middle of the road pressure, allowing for a +/- 10% enrichment or leaning of the fuel mix by simple pressure adjustments while tuning.
Hundreds of thousands, if not millions of car out there running at 3bar. Why reinvent the wheel?
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Well, got the box back into the car this morning.
I really like the options availabe in the MSS-E.
I am going to run some datalogs now to figure out what is going on... It's external to the box since Pete ran them in his car. Mine will start and run the car, but gets dropout.
I am back to possibly a heat-induced failure in the Stock 81 CAS unit causing a bad input signal, or corrupted input signal causing strange tachometer workings. I can see it in both the stock tach in the car, as well as on the MT Tach gauge.
But cold, once I get it started, the upper rev ranges are pretty smooth using some of the spark and fuel tables posted in the stickies. The supercharged was too rich down low, but worked O.K. in the upper rev ranges.
Back to input checking... BAH!
On occasion, the fuel pump stays on? Thoughts? I will shut it off, and restart, and the pump will shut off like with the old program. But sometimes it just stays running, and I can head something clicking out in the engine bay---possibly a relay.
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Ok ..
So why all of a sudden did this NEW HEI go bad?
Grounding, or Heat Sink Misapplication. If they are not properly grounded, and potted with heat conductive paste to a heat sink surface, they will fry really quickly.
And as I posted in the other thread elsewhere, I went through some "New" aftermarket units from Wells / Autozone that were not much better than DOA.
The only time mine started working was with the premium aftermarket unit from Perlux (Flamethrower) and that one worked wonderfully. The best I ever got out of the stocker aftermarket wells HEI module was a bluish/purple/reddish spark that jumped maybe 1/2" at the most...
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That's where mine is, position #1, directly behind the throttle shaft, in the spacer for the 60mm T/B I used.
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It is, "warmspot trollville" and yelling will get you nowhere here.
Be more specific in your location, and maybe someone can answer, but given your presentation, I doubt your story.
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Just fired off a MS with an LC1 running SU Carbs, and it was idling at 1.68!
Actually, it was revving at 1.68 as well...
With EGT's in the 1400 range going down the road.
The owner swears he will "get the SU's running correctly" and I laughed. I told him for the effort, he can install his injectors and have the MS drive them, and that will be easier than getting his SU's to work correctly!!!
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no aftermarket heads yet.
no aftermarket heads anymore is more correct...
though I have on good authority that three NOS LY heads surfaced recently but I am sworn to secrecy on their location, dammit!
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Megasquirt does take a MAF feedback signal...
Why adapt it, and keep crappy stock mapping when you can go Megasquirt and have it all?
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Well, isn't a Buick currently using an OEM electric water pump?
They have been using them in Europe for retrofit applications for years.
I won't get into the "it makes reverse flow cooling of any engine easier" argument, that's a different can of worms altogether.
Like Goldfish said, you can control the speed of the flow through the engine independent of engine speed, and linked more to temperature transfer.
We use one like described above on the EP car. A hacked abortion of a Summit-Bought V8 conversion kit, along with a pulley almost as big as the fan on the alternator to drop it's speed as well.
Alternator didn't like 9500 Engine Crankshaft RPMS...Neither did the OEM water pump.
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You know about 6 or 7 years ago my roommate bought one of those. I remember asking "What the hell are you buying that thing for?" and when I think back to all the times I could have used one... maybe I need to get one myself!!!
Indeed! It's what my wife said when I bought my Atlas!
"It's the little things!"
This bushing, that bearing.
Buying stainless fasteners in BULK at one length, and then facing them off as you need them one or two at a time, knowing all the while you bought 1000 M6-1.0X60 Button head Cap Screws at a penny a peice instead of 20 cents a piece....and making them all fit the different nooks and crannies around the Z where an M6-1.0 is used...
Refacing chisels and punches that have mushroomed...
Making specialty "offset" fasteners out of Hex Stock....
Oh, those things come in handy! I'll testify to that...
I bought mine for $150 back in 1989 with a three and four jaw chuck, some tooling and a knurling tool, got the full set of gearing for $15 at the Pomona Swap Meet about two months later.
I see the same lathe on E-Bay now selling for over $350!!! And mine is in better shape than those in most cases. I'm glad I bought mine.
"They Grow on You"
LOL
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How would one (and pointers to any literature is appreciated) tie the throttle position sensors (electrically combine the differing resistance mapping) on staged throttle bodies if one was only using ignition and throttle position for managing a multiple TB setup?. Has this been done before?
just like nissan did it on the dual-throttle plate intake T/B used on JDM Fairlady Z's...
Throttle rotation is throttle rotation, using a rotary position sensor anywhere the linkage is solidly linked will work. I have a Kinsler adapter that remote mounts up under the dash on the firewall. Nowhere near the throttles, but if you linkage has no play, what's the difference?
I have seen people put drill rod in the stock SU throttle piece on the balance tube to actuate their TPS.
The throttle position is relative. If you are going total Alpha-N (TPS and RPM based fueling only) that is all you need. If you have a MAP sensor in there, or a MAF, then TPS is relative, you don't need to know where each throttle is, the MAP will tell you that, you just need to get a relative position in relationship to idle and WOT. It will scale anywhere in between, and compensate based on MAP or MAF feedback.
BTW, the Megasquirt Extra Code will take a MAF feedback loop in place of a MAP signal. It's compatible.
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hey, guess what--this is 2007--yer 1977 should be exempt this year--check it out----------
Hey, guess what? It's not exempt! Nothing has been 'exempt" from anything but the biennial smog test, compliance is still required for emissions. But the rolling 30 year law hasn't been active for some time, repealed at least a year ago in lieu of the new regulations.
And if it was still in effect, the 77 would have rolled off the testing requirements as of Jan 1, 2006, not 2007. This January, if the 30 year rolling was still in effect in CA would have meant the 78's would have rolled off the testing.
As it sits, testing is dropped for vehicles manufactured prior to 1976. That means 1975 and earlier. And that's frozen. They want ALL vehicles with a catalyst to test as long as they are on the road.
The only exemption you will recieve on a vehicle newer than 1975 is if the vehicle is 35 Years Old and you have collector car insurance on it---in that case you are exempted from the VISUAL COMPLIANCE requirement of the SMOG Test Program, but you will STILL have to pass the Tailpipe Emissions Requirement for the year (as put forward by the state).
Truthfully if it doesn't pass a sniffer test, something is seriously wrong, but I shall resist the urge to digress...
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For California, that is a "market price". There is an outstanding place up in downtown LA, but for the price difference the trip may not be worth it.
where to put Air temp sensor?
in MegaSquirt
Posted
The easiest way to determine heat soak or IAT Error, and the way OEM's do it is with a very narrow open thermocouple juncture stuck in various openings at various places along the intake tract. I know I can use a Swagelock Thermocouple Fitting, and stick a open junction CrAl unit dead nuts in the center of the manifold plenum, and with some fenagiling, down one of the runners from the opposite side of the intake plenum wall. The leads I have are 6+ inches long, so you can dangle them tantilizingly just about anywhere.
This would probably be the best way to determine how much error you are getting from any given location---by referencing the thermocouple as actual air temperature, versus what your manifold IAT sensor is telling you your temp is...
With a closed hood, going down the road chances are good the ambient temp on a N/A is close. But in stop and go, inlet air temp starts to rise for whatever reason. How much is dependent on the situation.