Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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in our case, we offset ground the crankshaft to DECREASE the stroke, because we had to bore rust out of the cyulinders. So to keep the displacement at 1998cc's like stock, we had to destroke to make up for the displacement increase boring the block .020 gave us!
But normally, you will offset grind the journals to increase displacement.
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One thing? It goes 173.325mph, as verified by SCTA...
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Maybe my L20ET manifold is also different, I will have to check it, the thing is lumped up on a shelf in the shed... I never had any issues swapping my manifold for the US Spec unit, as I kept the same JDM downpipe (Aftermarket Trust/Greddy Piece) and exhaust, and nothing moved relative to the engine/transmission mounting flange (which is where the downpipe split stopped and the exhaust system began...)
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U-&-Me, both! LOL
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Gang I just did the totals and we're over the amount by $107.50. Please do NOT send any more funds until I can get with John Tedder and John Hines to sort out if we can do a second day. Mike:2thumbs:
Excel.......lent!
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I'm in So Cal.
There is an Ingersoll-Rand Air Center in Dallas, and they should have a load of little gadgets for draining condensate on demand. Usually Steam Traps work well as float-style drains (Condensate Drains) but unless you have access to them cheap, they can be spendy. Most of the Robodrains and Drainalls are more geared toward bigger stuff (eliminatating gallons per hour, instead of ounces!) but a good alternative is to run the smaller piping to a "T", and then getting the most radical bell-reducer you can (1/8 to 2" comes to mind...) and making a 'bulge' under your drain line, you can then use a 2" close nipple or whatever to construct a 'reservoir' to hold that condensate till you get around to draining it.
Winter is not when you will have the condensate problem, ambient humidity is lower then anyway. It's the summer when you have hot air and even low relative humidity----hot air holds more moisture than cold air! And of course if you were in Houston....
Good to see you got it dialed in.
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Blue and Pink foam are USUALLY "Polyurethane", and will not dissolve when POLYESTER RESIN is applied over them. For the white "STYROFOAM" stuff, it will be dissolved when hit with POLYESTER RESIN, so you either have to paint it with latex house paint (or other sealant barrier) or use EPOXY RESIN in the layup so it won't dissolve.
The key is POLYURETHANE is universally compatible with most resins used today for FRP layup. This is the same stuff you get in most "SPRAY FOAM" cans at Home depot as well. If you are free-forming something using that foam and then cutting it down works well, and the foam is impervious to the Polyester Resin in the cheaper FRP Kits. I originally constructed my entire lower G-Nose Air Dam out of that spray foam, as there was no other Polyurethane Foam source locally...
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I've an old 6" Atlas Model 109...they made allllll sorts of neat attachments for those. Grinding holders for the tool post, milling adapters, etc. You may want to go on E-Bay to get some of the manuals for those attachments---they are pretty easy to fab up. I have even seen people use angle iron attachments for the toolpost and hose clamps to hold 4" Electric Angle Grinders so they can cut hardened axles to different lengths.
Now you got the tool, you will find it makes it easier to make the adapters to use it for different things! One of the first projects I did on my Atlas was turn off a full set of replacement bushings so whenever they do wear to the point of needing replacement...
Now I sit in wait of my buddy Pete wanting to clean up his storage unit and sell off that 12" Atlas (Clausing) lathe. I almost bought it when the retired, but he decided against selling at the last minute---the guy has every attachment known to man from the original tool catalog for that thing: Milling Attachment, Grinding Attachment, and stuff I've never even heard of before. All still in the original boxes in many cases! Just got to stay in touch and wait...
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And the discussion went (with Dan Baldwin Chiming in) that in either case (l24 or L28) the 'attainable difference' of rpms was nil, therefore the engine with more displacement will be the more driveable. The discussion also was diverted onto forged versus cast pistons, wherevy the limit was 7000 due to piston limits---then redirected again to a rod and piston speed discussion about how cast pistons would survive to 8K on a long rod short stroke motor because of piston speed...
And even at 8K, the bigger displacement engine will have the advantage because of more torque down low.
Now Turbo is something altogether different from N/A, as you can alter the torque characteristics radically using forced induction. I'm not feather ruffled, I just didn't see where the comment had any place in the guys post since the engine build was totally different.
Harmonics? Some people discuss critical speeds, and in industrial applications the cure to critical speeds is accelerating the engine THROUGH the critical zone as fast as possible, and not hanging at the critical speed.
We cammed our Bonneville Engine to come "On Cam" hard at 7K. Meaning we pull hard through the critical of 7500 fairly fast (as we did on the L28 engine as well). We had the engines sitting at 8200+rpms for most of the run. The only time we had anything at 7500 was on our first few runs where we were only going in the 140's. After that we regeared and went faster, at higher rpms.
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Until my buddy drove his 73 out form Deleware two years ago, I would have said "No" as well! They will fit, but like stated, leaving the hood on the safety catch will keep anything from hitting or rubbing at all (and helps cooling!)
His didn't hit, but I think the filler neck looked odd, so it may have been 'altered' by a previous owner.
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Didn't a magazine (I want to say "Turbo") do a test this past year involving Electronic Boost Controllers, and manual units? I remember reading this sometime, and even they were suprised that the Manual controllers were more precise and less prone to creep at a given setting. They thought the complexity of the gain and 'fuzzy logic' in the newere generation of controllers would make them far superior to the old manual poppet-style manual boost controlling valves, and to their suprise they found it wasn't so.
I think this is what got me thinking about the choice of controller for my wife's car. To that point, I really hadn't considered a manual controller, and after reading that article, I started thinking "how much did I really use it"--- and came up with the realization that I really only used 2 settings for the most part. Until I really thought about it, or had it called to my attention by the article, I'd have gone out and bought the newer-generation electronic controller thinking like they did.
It also came into my head about the Bonneville Turbo Car, and launching at 15 or 20 psi till the speed was up, and then flipping a single switch at mile 2 to "get it on" for the rest of the course at full boost. Seemed like less hassle than anything else when going that fast. That entered into my consideration as well, to be honest. I'm thinking about buying the Turbo XS for the wife's car, just to "field test" it before going with it on the B-Car.
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Look on their website. The stuff I got was at one of the SAE presentations they did at their SoCal R&D facility.
I believe there were links given in those brochures, but damned if I bookmarked any of them...
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Interesting.... Those both appear to be Nissan Manifolds as well...
I would probably use the one with more spacking from the front of the engine, as if you are converting an N/A manifold, you have to relocate the PCV valve, and with the turbo further back this may not be necessary.
I think being both Nissan Manifolds, either will flow fine for your application.
Ported Stock Nissan got JeffP to 415HP to the rear wheels...
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The unloader switch, if linked via tubing to the electrical switch on the tank is a schraeder valve to blow down the air line between the head discharge valve on the HP section of the compressor to the check valve.
This allows the compressor to start up unloaded.
The automatic compressor drains work on a cycle theory. It waits for the differential of pressures between full load and cut in pressure to toggle internal parts that will blow down the condensate in the bottom of the tank everytime the compressor cycles. If you are in a humid area, they will generally NOT clear the tank completely. Thye also have a real problem with small bits of debris clogging the valve mechanisim and hanging open causing an persistent air leak and excessive compressor run time. I do not like them, nor will I recomend them to any customers. I prefer a float-actuated condensate drain that allows condensation to accumulate OUTSIDE the receiver, instead of on the bottom of the tank.
Any leak will cause a problem, fix them all.
If the valve is hung, you should hear it.
Make sure your gauge is reading correctly, as well.
I hope you plumbed the drain off the bottom of your compressor with an isolation valve so you can shut it off, and manually drain the tank. If you did, it should be a simple matter of closing that valve to eliminate teh blowdown valve from the system.
If your compressor is stationary, you may consider running a length of piping to the side of the tank where you don't have to crawl under anything in order to access the drains. This piping, if I were installing it, would be stainless steel, so it won't corrode. Brass is an option, but I don't like it as finding pressure-rated brass can be a problem sometimes.
Good Luck! Where in Texas are you?
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For stainless exhaust tubing, especially 3" tubing, its impractical to back purge. I used a product called Solar Flux to coat the inside of the weld seam and prevent sugaring. Burns Stainless sells a 1lb can of it for $40, which is expensive but it will last for a couple years.
Yeah, you don't have those red silicone sponge pigs from Cosmodyne, do you John! It pays to be around an oooooold German Pipefitter that worked at Cosmodyne during the Apollo Project, and listen to his stories...
When he retires, you pick up his Cybertig for $350, and a truckbed of tools and neat fitting parts to go along with it! I forget others don't have the same "legacy stash" like I stumbled upon! LOL
Solar Flux is probably easier for most people. I guess nobody has the purge box like we used in the USAF for TIG-ing the F15 Combustor Cans laying around, huh?
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No, none came with a Factory Installed LSD.
They were not on the factory option order list in the USA or North American Market (the only place that got 280Z's).
Outside the USA, both the 240 and 260Z were available with an optional LSD (S30 Vehicles) in the JDM, not sure about other markets but the JDM cars all had an LSD option.
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My earlier post has been revised to correctly reflect the status of the heater loops...
I have a set of the G-Nose Covers arriving shortly. They were posted on a Japanese Website, and I got them for the asking price of 32,800 Yen.
Yes, I choked, as when I was last in Japan (1989) they were selling for 30,000! For this guy to only add 2,800 yen in all this time, I wasn't letting them go away. With brokerage fees and postage, total cost was $419 for the set. I'm not complaining, the set we bought for the Bonneville Car in 1999 ran us $745 from Nissan Motorsports in Gardena!
And I had to drive there to pick them up, for $300 less, these will be delivered to my door, Japan Express Mail!
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I really got to wonder how much adjustability in the cockpit you really need.
When I was young and impressionable, I bought a fancy HKS EBC... Thinking it would be great to be able to just "crank up the boost" from the cockpit.
After living with it for the years from 1985 to 2007, I have come to one conclusion:
I don't adjust my boost to either one of two settings: 10psi for "normal driving", and "Full Boost" for when someone gets spunky.
From my experience, and from my original impressions, I never really set the controller at anything in between the two settings.
So, were I to build another car (like for my wife) I most likely would use that Two-Stage Boost Controller, and use a keyswitch to switch between "Wife Boost" and "My Boost".
Other than that, in 22 years...I rarely if ever have run anything other than 10psi or 21psi on my controller. For a while daily boost was 15, then 17, then I set the HKS EVC up to control 12psi on normal, and 21psi on the high setting. I never use the 'scramble feature' which when I bought it I thought I'd use all the time.
Just my experience---I'm curious, do you other guys constantly fiddle with the settings, or do you use one or two settings?
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Where in Inland Empire?
I'm near 251S and 60.
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It's usually glycerine or silicone. Look in your yellow pages for "Instrumentation Calibration and Repair" for a local source.
Failing that, McMaster-Carr Supply company (http://www.mcmaster.com) has it and they take credit cards, and ship.
You may try to confirm with Autometer what dampening fluid they use, but I doubt it's anything different than the rest of the industry uses.
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Stainless filler wire, and if possible get another regulator/mini tank and backpurge the inside of the piping with similar blanket gas.
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You got it! no matter how well the seal is on the nacelle, the splash from the tire eventually will spew up from behind... and if there is no way for the condensation to get out: Fogging.
Still not home, but the MS units have been waiting my return since Saturday.
heading home tomorrow afternoon. Hopefully will have a Friday to get to it before the weekend hits and "planned activities" take over again...
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They have a small storefront, but just about everything in their catalog is in the warehouse directly behind the counter. I usually order ahead, and just will call my stuff at the counter.
it's not perusing the store that gets me in trouble....it's opening that damnable catalog... "Oh, I could use one of those... That would be nice... While I'm ordering I should get some of this..."
Rock may still be available in Japan. Don't live there anymore! LOL
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someone else interested in a short stroke motor huh? Tony D and a few others have all but talked me out of it.
You were talking about non-turbo. Meaning absolutely no torque whatsoever below 4000rpms, and an absolute miserable car to drive in stop and go traffic.
A short stroke turbo motor, making 3psi before boost threshold will act like a much larger engine upon throttle application, and the rush to redline will be even more interesting since thie redline is so high comparatively.
You also wanted to use stock pistons, and for the same reason I gave trowa above, "what's the point"?
The questions were totally different. Don't generalize my statements to his situation in comparison to yours without telling all the facts related to your original question.
Which, as I recall, was predicated on the premise that "L28's don't rev fast"...
California Smog
in MegaSquirt
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FYI, there are more than a few MS units that have run in 'stealth mode' and successfully passed California Smog Check...TWICE! (Been running that long? Yeah, they have!)
Key is disguising the system so it doesn't raise suspicion---meaning you still have an AFM (gutless) hanging there, as well as a stock looking (or reused) stock wiring harness.
It's illegal, but civil disobedience on this point IMO is worth the effort! What comes out the tailpipe should be the ONLY criteria for pass/fail. How you get there is none of the government's business!