Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Ohhhhh, that Nismo Gauge Cluster will make JeffP unsettled.
Though he seems to like the stepper-motor tachometer...
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Just an Aside...
I had picked up one of our "Electromotive" O2 sensors. It was an NTK, but the part number had been "knurled" so as to make the number illegible.
Well, there was one in our box that was not so illegible. Now I had always assumed (insert your appropriate comment here about assuming things) that this was the expensive NTK unit, since the "value Added" dealer was selling them as such.
The P/N on the body I found was NTK 56027916...
Suprise, Suprise, Suprise! It corssreferenced for a DODGE TRUCK, and is available from several sources with an upper end price range around $102.43.
I am thinking the "Value Added" dude was crimping his own connections on Dodge sensors to cut costs... my paranoia aside, this may be another alternative for standard sensors for the TEC2 that should be identical to the ones supplied by the "Value Added Dealers".
For what it's worth.... And oh yeah, "Bump"! LOL
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Ohh, nice Bicentennial Michigan Plates!
I have a set of those on my 62 VW Microbus!
LOL
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The cross sectional area of the throttle plates in that manifold is slightly larger than the stock 50mm single butterfly---if it's from an L28. If it's from an L20A, then the size is considerably smaller.
The small throttle plate (about the size of a Nickel if it's an L28 model, about the size of a dime if the L20A model...) will give very nice tip-in response and throttle modulation in partia throttle situations below 3500rpm. Basically you will run on the primary plate with a nice high manifold vacuum level at most cruise speeds, the primary plate throttling range is about 3/4 of total throttle pedal travel, the last 1/4 of the throttle pedal travel is when the larger bore plate goes from fully closed to fully open. Nice for passing on the highway.
Also note that this is an odd manifold----in that it used the vacuum idle speed control like the ECCS on the turbos. On the Z-Car Manifolds, this was accomplished by stepper-motor control, and not a vacuum analog signal. Also note that there is no provision for a cold-start valve---the NAPS system was a hybrid cross between EFI and ECCS systems Nissan used here in the USA, they batch fired the injectors for startup, and then used injector pulsewidth for cold start enruchment instead of the single injector.
This manifold was form a Cedric, Gloria, or other large car, they did not use this manifold on the Z-Car, only in the larger passenger sedans.
Neat to look at, a conversation piece, but not anything performance oriented.
They do make nice daily drivers, though, with that littel throttle plate.
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This is why industrial customers usually knuckle under to Hartford Steam Boiler Company (insuracne company) when they demand annual Infra-Red testing of all MCC panels and Switchgear.
Had anyone shot a simple infra-red photo of the switchgear, loose and corroded connections show up with PLENTY of warning.
I deal with this on Centrifugal Compressors all the time, power sag on one leg causing a compressor overamp trip because of low power input. Shut down a process that costs a customer $1,000,000 an hour because they drop air pressure, and all of a sudden the I-R Photography becomes cheap insurance indeed.
There are plenty of Companies locally that can provide this service. BEST (Blivens Energy Scanning Techniques) is one out of Long Beach. I have dealt with them since 1989, and the owner is a really good guy. If you are flexible on when they come by, they can shoot or scan your panels pretty cheap. Especially if you are in the area of a bigger company getting something done.
Even shooting the connections with a good I-R Temp gun can show the loose connections. But when you see the I-R Photo, it becomes obvious where your problems are.
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"Rings are Fine" is not how I would phrase those results. The numbers are fine for a street engine, but given the raise in compression when wet, that would normally indicate wear on the rings, or the piston ring lands causeing excessive blowby.
I would be wary of someone saying Nissan Bores are "Worn"... is this engineer familiar with te Nissan L at all? The reason I'm asking, and you can verify this all over, is that even in racing applications it's far more common to deglaze and re-ring than to EVER have to rebore the block.
"BIG SAM" the "samuri" campaigned in the UK is a well know "Commonwealth Example"---magazine articles of the day were amazed that even after thousands of racing miles, the most the car ever required was a de-glaze and re-ring.
Of course, doing machine work will raise internal profits, through outsourcing the job and makring up discounted labour....but that is a different story...
In itself, for a racing engine, reboring is usually done for displacement increase....and that is fine. But barring something like what happened in our Bonneville Engine (the gudgeon pins worked free on the pin end, and scored every bore 0.080"!!! Every machinist said "never seen that before") the most I have ever seen was a need for a deglaze and re-ring.
Choice of pistons is up to you. Forged will give you an RPM limit over 7000 for extended periods. More RPM will equate to more HP if set up properly.
So think about your options carefully. If you price the difference between new pistons in cast or forged....... Long term for high rpm use, I'd presonally go with forged....... the decision becomes difficult.
Putting in new cast pistons on a unbored, but re-honed bore...
Putting in Oversized pistons on a rebored oversize bore...
Either way, rings will be needed. From what I have experienced, a wet test increas that little is usually tired rings on a Nissan, not a bore out of tolerance.
Good Luck.
Cheers!
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"Worn Bores"
That's a first! Usually the rings will wear before the bores will even be worn to the high end of acceptable NEW tolerance.
Low compression in one of these engines is more an function of worn/weak rings, or leaking valves.
New pistons on a racer is a good bit of insurance nonetheless, but I would be suspect of "worn bores" based only on low compression. Chances are it only needs new rings and a deglaze of the walls, not an oversize boring.
I'd look a bit closer at the options, unless you are looking for an increase in displacement for those reasons...
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Yesss.... The "discussions" at zc.c....
Er...
Anyway, on the discussion of the Kammback design, take close notice of the S130's rear roofline. There is a little trip line to interrupt the flow over the hatch---resulting in less lift compared to the S30. There are some who have argued with me that "such a little thing can't have that much effect" but indeed with the smoke tests published by Nissan, you can see the flow effect of that little dip just before the hatch upper seam.
A Small device at the rear of the S30 would probably achieve similar effects of lift reduction without the imposition of a drag inducing spoiler. Dirty the flow off the back of the roof, and the lift is effectively lessened.
I know when we got our first record at ElMirage, the car ran almost back-to-back runs of 140 and then 143 mph. The wind was nil, and the temperature was higher on the second run, but other than that the only difference was removal of the smaller style BRE Spolier off the hatch. The car did have traction problems above 100mph, and ultimately adding about 200# of lead shot over the rear axle got us another 10mph due to increased traction!
So my estimation is that the BRE Spolier should show 200-300# of downforce on the rear axle, at the expense of drag, at a speed between 135 and 145mph. This tunnel testing will stop estimations of what is observed, and quantify it once and for all.
But with just this little test, one could see wether adding a "dip" to the back of an S30 Roof would achieve similar gains as adding a spoiler, without the drag penalty. I can't do it, but you can be darned sure that I'd put such a modification on my turbo street car!
I digress! LOL Off to the Group Z meeting, I will pimp the effort, and try to drum up some more donors! Glad I made it home in time for the meeting and resultant whoring of the effort to the membership! LOL
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The Cd effects and top speed effects of the G-Nose are pretty well known. (top speed increases from 200 to 215kph for example...) We don't need to test what we already know works. What we need to test are the imponderables of years of marketing hype have made us think this part is aero or that part is aero... Knowing in the back of our minds full well that they most likely didn't ever test squat!
Now, On G-Noses what is not known is the effect of the KNOCKOFF G-Noses. I have seen good ones (Japanese) and very poor ones (Most North American Produced Crap...). The five piece pictured on the body thread is a very near replica of the stock G-Nose, and has the proper tray to the radiator. But many of the knockoff G-Noses use shorter trays because they are one-piece, and the shorter apron makes it easier to pop out of the mold.
The aero effects of diffusers within the G-Nose opening, Closing up of the G-Nose opening, lack of the proper apron compared to a properly reproduced G-nose, that popular JDM "Spook Spolier" on the front of a G-Nose...
That could be a day in itself, but it's a moot point. The way to make it work like a stock Nissan Nose is to make the apron go to the lower radiator bulkhead and seal properly. Then at least even the cheap noses will give the same aero properties as the more expensive units.
What will be interesting to see is if there is a combination of flow alterations people can make to give a near or similar effect as a G-Nose without the high cost.
Though I do agree, the 'with or without headlight covers' is a basic test that should prove interesting.
I actually have an old, complete one-piece Japanese G-Nose laying around, unfortunately it's got broken mounting tabs... No time to fix >:^(
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Anyone notice the 5 lug 300ZX wheels on the dark blue/gray S130 ??
and it looks pretty good on there.
That car came to LA in 2004 for the convention. There is more modified on that car than the wheels/hubs! RB25 Conversion, Defigauge Dash Retrofit, on and on! Very nice car. I had photos of it on my Yahoo Photos Page, I can go back and make that album public again, but I don't know how easy it is for others to access it from outside Yahoo.
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I doubt it will liftoff at 185, in 1989 there was an S30 that went that fast at Bonneville I believe they went 188mph....
Yeah, if you search the Archives at ZC.C, the Hybrid77/TKR514 threads are extremely negative. Rarely helpful, usually just sarcastic pokes at people asking questions. I may be an a$$hole, but jeeeeeez, at least I spend tiime in the Tech section trying to do my pennance for what happens over in the Car Talk Section! LOL
Mmmmm, Overtime this Sunday. More money to come I suspect.
What was that that Peter Sellers said (or was it Alec Guiness?) in "The Ladykillers"? "Just a pfenning from each policy holder, Ma'am. Nobody will miss one pfenning, will they?"
Probably not the thought that .53 cent comment was meant to elicit above, but it's the first thing I thought of when I read it... Probably best _not_ to make that particular persuasive argument for raising funds... LOL
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TonyD,
I think I want to bolt to more than just the bumper struts, though (I pushed them in and ran a bolt through the side so the bumper is tucked a bit closer to the body)
Little anecdotal quip herre, if "Strength of the Struts" is an issue with you (it seems to be making you hesitate, so this story should help).
Mike M. from ZC.C came out to my place to pick up an 82 ZXT (Five Speed)that I was storing for him after buying it in a private sale. While driving through Oklahoma he hit black ice. Now, he was towing the 82 ZXT with a KA24 Powered Five Speed 2001 Frontier. Er.... Yeah----what's the Nissan Towing Recomendation with that setup...like 1500#???
Anyway, the truck was in cruise, and when he hit the black ice, he semi-jacknifed the whole rig, the ZXT pushing the rear of his truck along on the ice, as he headed for the shoulder.
The side of the cab took out mile marker 88 on I40, and when the right rear wheel hit the jagged nub of the sign, it blew the tire, making the rim DIG into the shoulder, starting the truck in a FLIP.
The Towbar, connected with ONE bolt through each bumper strut, was PULLED OVER ON IT'S SIDE as both the truck and 82 ZXT flipped up onto the passenger's side, and slid along the wet grass for a distance.
When the tow truck arrived, they uncoupled the two vehicles by unhooking to towbar from the ball, dragged the truck clear so nothing would hit, and pushed them back over wheels-down "upright", the ZXT suprisingly not messed up on the side it was sliding upon, but the "pull up point" was a little deformed...
They reconnected the vehicles, and he continued towing back to the far end of Kentucky, same towbar. Then he UPS'd my towbar back.... I have towed at least three mover vehicles with the same towbar since. It's a trooper!
Those struts are TOUGH. If you have one 1/2" (12mm) bolt through the strut assembly I doubt HIGHLY you will shear it. And from the above example, you can see those towbars WILL HEAVE a car over by their bumper struts! That seems to me to be a "decent and acceptable" torture test.
BTW, that towbar folds flat, and will fit in a space 8X8X36" (maybe)...will that fit in the typical USMC Footlocker? LOL
Anyway, I know it fits under the back seat of my F250SD Cab-and-a-Half.
Just in case you are iffy on what the combination will actually do in an accident... I had bitchen celphone photos Mike sent me that evening, just no way to transfer them!
Thinking about it, SECOND ANECDOTAL STORY:
When packing up the 280's for Frank280ZX's Sea Container, we hooked the chains through the holes in the struts, and lifted the cars up into the Sea Container by the bumper struts. We actually suspended the cars weight dangling by them for some time while figuring out what to do next. Eventually we suspended som cars from the struts with chains to the sidewalls from the bumper struts, and used the "tiedown points" on the body for crosschaining to keep sway under control. This went over-the-road from my place to Long Beach, then onboard a ship, through the Panama Canal, and to Amsterdam...
Parts are well engineered, just don't tow with Junk. I am very happy with the Valley Towbar I bought back in 95... It was actually cheaper than the Tow Dolly from U-Haul at the time...which is why I bought it!
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I guess you already know that you usually don't tow a stickshift with the drive wheels on the ground even if it's in neutral. Unless of course you take off the driveshaft which a lot off people don't do. My point was to save you wear and tear, it's better to put the car on a transporter instead of a dolly especially on long distance unless it's just around town. I did tow a 78 Trans Am once using a towbar but i only did it for 10 miles.
I've (as well as several others) towed transcontinental with that towbar flat towing a Z without any issues of transmission damage. The only vehicle which I remove the driveshaft is an Automatic. Backing a standard shift car onto a tow dolly is a bit overkill, and when it's on the dolly, you do have plenty of clearance to remove the driveshaft from the pumpkin, so no harm no foul there.
I simply start the car at every other gasoline stop, start the car, and let the engine churn up the tranny to re-oil everything inside.
And if you knew how fast I towed my 73Z back from the Denver Convetion, you would realize the 35mph maximum speed for towing is also a bunch of lawyerbabble covering liability in our wonderful litigious society!
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"Consider Enough Time Being Given" Bring the Distributor Frank!
And that 260 Tail Light and the pump.....hell just mail it, those idiots in TSA will probably just rip it off again if you take it in checked baggage... Er, if you fly through Newark, that is...
I actually have a scope, and nice 100ms four channel unit that JeffP gave me. It worked better before he threw it about 25 feet in a fit of Moosehead-Induced rage when we were probing the COM port issue three years ago...
What can I say? I'm hard headed. I just didn't have the luxury of "substitution" to black-and-white eliminate the box as an issue (same problem when the Laptop was the issue. We got it working fine with JeffP's Win98 Laptop, but not mine... Remember those posts?)
I do have an SDS sitting out back, but it would only work on N/A engines. I haven't pursued that option and don't even know if it's upgradeable to Turbo Specification.
I could try the Electramotive TEC box we had in the Bonneville Car... I think that is configurable for boost. Hmmmmmmm TEC2...
No! I'm going to remain Hard-Headed and get this damn thing working. unless my wife really starts hounding me, then I will succumb and probably throw in some Z31 MAF component cast-offs from Jeff's Garage Floor... LOL
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I'm glad you had access to the documentation, I was playing "looser in the hotel room in Vegas" and couldn't lay hands on them for at least a week! LOL
As Alan said, there were private imports of L28ET's but as you saw from the brochures, the L20ET was the "turbo" they had available.
The Front Spoiler and Wing is another bone of contention for me, as I will have to PROVE to the sanctioning board that those were actually real factory options (or standard equipment) before they will let my car compete in a "production class" with them installed. That spoiler, and the plastic ducting to the radiator would help immeasurably at high speed (standard on the Eurospec Turbo Cars as well, particularly Germany) like I will be shooting for at Bonneville. Alas, my S130 brochures and etc are sorely lacking. i got S30 stuff while in Japan, not S130 (why would I ever buy one of those? LOL)
Anyway, at least now I have a thread to link to when someone else puts up the mythical JDM Engine Importer of L28ET's.
This came up at another board, and someone paid $$$ for what was supposed to be a "low mileage JDM engine" and I warned him chances were it was nothing more than a US Model Junkyard Takeout. Poor Bastard...
And I'm sure Alan can confirm the recycling that occurs every April/May when Road Taxes are due in Japan. I suspec a LOT of 83 ZXT's in Japan ceased to exist as they were coming due for the last two-year Shaken Inspection, and that big fee was looming in the Spring of 93 & 94. Mass vehicle retirement... The L's from Japan started drying up at that point. Enthusiasts started looking to America and it's market for abundant L-Gata Supplies! Cars over 10 years old simply aren't fiscally smart to keep on the road in Japan unless you are a real enthusiast and have the $$$.
Then again, the real racerguys run the redstripe plate, and skip Shaken altogether... LOL
I digress, as usual!
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Done, Done, Done...
Originally it seemed to be running well on the internally regulated alternator. Then I got smart and changed back to the OEM style for a 74. And coming full circle put it back in.
Like I said, as long as the alternator field does not flash and start charging it runs fine. Maybe it's heat related with something in the alternator as it seems to go longer when stone cold.
But having had several alternators, batteries, wires, filters....
What do you mean "you modded the wiring" Ranty? Did the external regulator plug with the diode in it?
As for the 81 causing a problem... The waveform (which I DID scope extensively before attempting the conversion) is identical to that of an 82/83CAS unit. The point being it should work as is. if it works from an identical waveform off and 82/83 CAS, it should work off the 81 CAS.
And the chances of FIVE 81CAS units (all but the original one off running, driving vehicles) being bad and causing a problem is very slim.
When I do actually get the time to work on it, it seems it just succeeds in pissing me of further. I'm mailing the boxes to Z-Ya for his diagnosis on the construction of the boxes and related items. If it works in his race car, then we know it's not a box issue. I have turned down offers from others closer to use their box simply because I didn't want to hack someone elses box to work in my car. But giving my box for someone to try it in a known good harness / accessory setup.... I'm all up for that! I can always re-program to where I was before after they flash it. hell, if he gets it working on his Club Car, I will probably upgrade software to whatever HE is running as I KNOW that is a correct and working configuration for the set!
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I hope I can donate sometime around christmas...
Anyway I posted about this project on Z***.com and the thread got promptly deleted...Oh well.
:Shakes Head:
I am still slated to bring it up at the GroupZ Meeting this Thursday.
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Been busy, just checked back. 26" hmmmm. That's some great tucking for that length of tubing! That Burns Program is nice. They are about 45 miles from me, I've referred people to there for years. I'm making a note of that length for future reference.
I think our N/A Header for our 2.0L was something like 26" as well. Strange how that works out! LOL
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maby your car suffered from a e.m.p!!??? Just think of the guru you will be when the solution is found. Good luck!
This is not that far out of the realm of possibility. The ground wire in the engine bay harness was toast. I suspect at some time in the past, someone reverse-polarity connected the battery or battery cables.
Man, cutting that harness all apart and replacing the ground with a #8 Battery Isolation Cable was a P.I.T.A.!
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What Ernie Said! Use the lowest pressure (determined by experimentation) that will accomplish what you want.
Another suggestion would be to chemically strip as much as you can, and reserve abrasives for those spots too built up for chemical stripping, or to treat corrosion you find after the stripping.
I blasted my engine bay in 1985. To this day, I still have media coming in from the air tubes in the front fender. Once it gets in, it's impossible to get out. Were I to do it again, I'd chem strip the whole schebang, and then blast the corroded areas, or where I was going to be doing welding.
I got a nice case of "Silicosis" which Ernie alludes to above, as well. You do NOT want to breathe that dust. The feeling of breathing in to feel a million microscopic dust particles abrading your lung tissue is one you can do without... I know I can...
Incidentally, the lower pressure you use, the less dust you produce. Depending one the media you use, some will fractionate and become unusable after one pass through the system. Most medias that are low-dusting will actually break apart and dust like crazy if you run them at too high a pressure. A little pressure goes a long way. And if you can recover the media through a seive and re-use it becasue you didn't blast it into oblivion, you save $$$ in the process...
IMO, the suction blasters are far inferior to Pressure-Post Style blasters when doing large projects. I used an ALC Sandy-Jet back in 85, and recently (like 2002) did the entire undercarrige of a Sport Fury Hemi using a Pressure Pot (100# Model from Harbor Freight), and the difference in material removed versus air pressure needed, and air consumed was like night and day!
For the cost of the HF Pressure Pot on sale, we saved that in media. I don't think it took me four hours to strip the bottom of that Fury start to finish. The Engine bay, on the other hand took hoppers and hoppers of dusty coral infested beach sand..... NOT RECOMENDED!
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TonyD,
Are you saying the towbar is still available and fits right to the bumper brackets of a 280?
I am considering ways to tow my Z back to PA in a few months (with a Q45) and that option might actually be the viable one. (Though I think the Q would need a custom hitch as the ones being sold are only 1500lb rated or so)
I take it I could safely flat tow it as long as I disconnected the driveshaft.
Absolutely, the bars are sold at Pep Boys, Kragen, and Auto Zone. I bought mine at Pep Boys. By custom hitch, I guess you never saw my 75 Fairlady---I couldn't find anything to fit, so I fabbed a nice towing apparatus out of 1/4" plate and 2" .125" wall box channel and a Class III receiver I bought from a local towing supply house. I am probably the only guy on the face of the planet with a Class 3 Receiver on the back of an S30. The Q should flat-tow it just fine, I just wouldn't put the car in overdrive at all. Weight ratings are subjective. Get a bigger hitch then you need. If nothing else it's something nice to knock you shin on one morning half awake in stumbling around the garage looking for that first morning beer...
Basically, you remove the front bumper, throw it in the back. Then, depending on the model of towbar you have, either bolt it up straight to the exposed bumper struts, or turn the things 45 degrees, and then bolt them up. If you PM me an e-mail I can send you photos of what several vehicles look like with the towbar attached. I think I've got photos of 260, 280, and 280ZX's currently on the computer external drive. It's a pretty sweet way to do the bolt up. If you get spunky, and get a 28-32" piece of 3" C-Channel, you can permanently mount your "U" Clevises from the Towbar to it, and then just drill whatever bolt pattern you want to attach it to a 240, as well as whatever else you may want to hook it to. I have seen people take the factory tiedowns up front completely off the frame, and have the "U" Piece fabbed up, so they can easily hook up the towbar without any fuss of removing the bumper---all depends on the time you have available before you have to tow.
No matter how desperate you get don't use a tow dolly! I towed my brothers 82 280ZX because he didn't want to spend for the full trailer and he ended up with front end problems which cost him a few bucks. The 1600 miles from L.A. to Dallas with that front end going backwards did do some damage.Er, using a tow dolly is usually done with the FRONT wheels on the dolly, and the rear end tracking along just fine behind. I have seen people back the car onto the dolly and always wondered why. Unless you do something seriously wrong, towing a tow dolly should do anything to the front end, it adds no stresses other than what normally would be associated with driving the vehicle. If there was damage, chances are good it wasn't from the Tow Dolly.
I towed many vehicles with a Tow Dolly, but for the effort the Flat-Towing is just as easy and you don't need someone to help you push the damn thing up on the dolly!
As to the issue of what the thing weighs, my 1975 Fairlady Z 2/2 wieghed in at 2695# with me in it (330#), so that should be a close approximation of a US-Specification Coupe. If I recall, that is what the 280 Guys were weighing in at the track that day. Tow rating of the vehicle is dictated by the LCD. That would be the slackjawed moron towing his life's belongings from here to there in an overloaded "Grapes of Wrath" scenario through winding mountians with things bungeed to the sides of the towed vehicle. The Nissan Frontier is rated at 3500 with a Stick, and 5000 with an Automatic. Why? Same engine, and same differential? Because some Goobe decided to tow up the Palm Springs Grade with a 5000# load in FIFTH (overdrive) and smoked his clutch at 51,000 miles and then screamed holy hell with the warranty department and then litigated... Hence now you will get a rating of 3500# on a Stick. And the admonition not to tow in overdrive with the Automatic.
Take the rating with a grain of salt. Take it easy when you tow, USE THE PROPER GEAR GOING UP AND DOWN HILLS, and chances are you will easily tow what you need. Presonally with the cost of utility trailers getting below the $1000 mark, it becomes very hard to justify not buying one just for the times putting all the wheels up off the ground would be easier than flat-towing (like recovering wrecks, half-cuts, or big parts...).
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Bad Idea! K&N makes a small "keychain" filter that will fit nicely on the 8mm pipe. If you simply plug it, and the rest of your tubes and hoses are properly sealed, you will suck a vacuum in the tank...to the point where the filler neck will collapse and in some extreme cases the tank will somewhat collapse (if you have a really good pump. If you have just an average pump, it will simply stop delivering fuel under cruise conditions, you run lean, start bucking, and wonder "WTF" as you coast to the roadside, unable to get it restarted. Then you hear a gian sucking sound when you open your gas cap, and then it mysteriously restarts without a problem for another 30 or so highway miles, until it does it again...
Or so I'm told...I would never just plug it off! Not me! Never never never...
Word of warning to the wise.
You don't need a carbon cannister per-se, but you do need a way for air to get back into the tank as the fuel is sucked out of it. If your vent hoses are all leaking and broken up like most people's, you will never experience the above. But if you then later seal everything up tight, and go for a long drive you will hear the familiar refrain: "I've driven all over with that line plugged for years and never had this problem before!" Then you suddenly remember you just changed your vent hoses and the realization hits you....
Good Luck!
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.63 in the US Market.
.82 in the European Market.
.43 in the JDM with the L20ET, it was not available as a 2.8 there.
All A/R's were Hot-Side. As far as I have determined, all of them used the same cartridge.
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z-ya, "You have P-M"! LOL
Too bad on the startup, but I know how it goes. At least your former employer didn't decide to sue you out of spite for leaving...
Or am I assuming too much? LOL
Just think of the guru you will be when the solution is found. Good luck!
HELP!! Electricians will I burn down my house, kill someone
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
WOAH!
Guys, do NOT plug a cable into the house outlet and backfeed the grid...
I would say listen to Buzz. This is the way I ran my house for a week while waiting for a service connect.
What you can do to be safe (extra safe) is to remove your power meter. It pulls out, if you have no power, what's the diff, right?
Anyway, you pull that meter, and you will not backfeed the grid no matter what you do in your own box. Like Buzz said, you can easily hook up to either the main breaker that powers the buss bars, or wire back through an unused breaker. You could go pick up a 20A 220V breaker, wire to it, and install it in a 220 opening in the breaker box, and simply trip the service disconnect breaker at the box to isolate from the grid.
To go back on the grid, you will simply power down everything in the house, shut down the generator, and disconnect your breaker (either the one you installed, or wherever you hooked the generator...) Then restore the cover, flip your service disconnect back on, and you are set.
If you leave a spare 20A 220V breaker in there, and leave your SO4 cord attached, but with the breaker tripped off, you are just a plug-in and generator fire up away from repowering your house (after the main service disconnect is pulled).
Those transfer switches are the "proper" way to do it, but I've had a 50A SO4 cord attached to my box since 1997...when I first hooked it up! If the power goes out, I pull out the generator, plug it in, and fire it up. Flip, tug, flip, and I am the only one in my neighborhood with power! With the same caveats as Buzz mentions.
I would NEVER run power back through a normal house outlet. Bad Idea IMO.