Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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this thing really does work! I just started the car for the first time! I had to copy alot of Moby's basic settings, and use a map of a close set up. But it runs! I am so happy. wo ho!!!!! MsnS baby!!!
I have some fine tunning, i have to keep my foot on the gas a little, and then I'm going to tune with a wideband. But it freekin runs. BIG SIGH>>>>>>>>
Congratulations! This looks startingly like my first post in the old Yahoo Forums in 2003...
(Ominous Music Plays)
Continues on, I wish you continues success! "Great when a plan comes together!"
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I, too will have to call B.S. on a large displacement (i.e. "stroker") L-Engine making only 230 at the crank at "10Krpm".
As someone who has a 1998cc L20A that really revs to 9500 rpms, and makes 205RWHP @ 8750rpms, I find the claim of only 230hp to the crank not only ridiculous, but smke and mirrors. I am with JM in the request for a Dyno Sheet showing a real 10K RPM run.
That indeed, is well underpowered for that rpm capability and displacement.
Most JDM L24 Builders were making 100HP more than that to the crankshaft long ago, and with 1000 less rpms claimed.
Our L28 non-stroker engine made 320 to the rear wheels at 8250, and it was only .040" overbored...
"I Second the B.S. Motion!"
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I'm having to agree with FOD, detonation would make something similar, but more looking like a "sponge" as shown in that last photo, and if it's detonating in #6, that severely, you would see similar formations, only less as dramatic in the other chambers as well.
I think Austin has it about the bearing damage, the non-compressibility of the object caused an overload on the bearing, and collapsed the oil wedge.
It was something hard, & symetrical. I was in a rush once, and lost an intake washer down the intake on my VW Bus, passed through, but to this day it's hanging on monafilament fishing string from the rearview mirror to remind me not to rush.
What confounds me is the probability of something that small and round getting in there in the first place. Something like a piece of steel shot that was laying on top of the piston, and occasionally made it up to the rim before blowing out the exhaust valve... All that damage could have happened in cranking the engine initially, and once it fired, out the exhaust it went. Usually this severity of damage would be caused during slow mechanical cranking (like with the starter), as during runnning at even idle speed, the kenetic energy of the parts in contact would start breaking stuff, instead of simply making imprints.
That Sucks.
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SCCA? Heck, I'm in the SCTA, and run a Land Speed Racing Z-Car. Most of what anybody will be testing here will be totally illegal for me in the stock production classes I run. But for other classes, any reduction in drag will help me---wether what anybody uncovers in the testing to be beneficial would be legal in my classes will remain to be determined. I may "get nothing" out of the testing in that regard.
But the curiosity over the myriad of "AERO" and "STYLING" Kits out there intrigues me: I seriously doubt the "AERO" kits sold will provide anything useful in the end. And that curiosity fuels my interest in the project. There is a LOT of that crap out there on the Flats---stuff people put on an S30 because it said "AERO PACKAGE" and went land speed racing. having seen how fast our car went, compared to many others with V8's (and much more horsepower) with these "aero parts" on them just has my curiosity piqued at really how bad these parts really are.... I have my thoughts along that line, and this testing will ultimately prove beyond a doubt if they really are "AERO" or just "STYLING" add-ons.
What BJ is saying about the small BRE spoiler meshes really well with what we have seen first hand on the lake, and once and for all to have numbers put up there for everyone to see will at least give meat to silence ingorant theorists fed a steady diet of marketing pablum on what is functional and what doesn't work worth a sh**!
To do it just to do it is reason enough... To know is better than not knowing.
That sums it up for me!
"Curiosity Killed the Cat, Satisfaction Brought Him Back!"
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I have to say mine is a HF Cheapie, and I agree with the last comment about blade thickness, thicker blade seems to last longer, and cuts a LOT straighter than the original blade that came with it.
Also agreed: starting slowly helps a lot.
My favorite chop saw I missed out on when my buddy sold his welding shop---some behemoth that runs on three phase, and was belt driven. You want to talk about "hogging through metal"---man that baby would hog through anything, BUT QUICK!
I would not call anything I do with my HF Chopper now "hogging" compared to that thing!
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I agree, a metal cutting band saw is for fine cuts, a metalworker or chop saw will rough you in there from a 20' stick, within an inch or two, but after that band saw is the way to go, with final hand-fitting using grinders or files for proper gap alignment and width before welding.
You can shim the stock to get it correct, and as with anything, patience---the more you push on it, the easier it is for anything to deflect. I see my chop saw jump almost 1/8" to the outboard side when it comes in contact with the metal.... it's something you just have to compensate for. Make that initial cut, and then pull the stock back straight so the wheel feeds straight downward. It's the initial deflection that makes it cut angled.
So I cut 1/8" short, then as the blade jumps outboard (to my right)1/8", just as it scores the first groove in the metal (giving it a place to return to) I move the stock back 1/8" (to my left) and then the wheel feeds pretty much straight down since it now has a "starter groove" to go into, and it's now directly below the blade centerline so it doesn't deflect as it goes through the cut.
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Yes, the HIF 6 is popular in Europe due to the adjunct idle circuit. It really makes tuning the power range of the carb easier when you aren't running pig rich at idle.
The CFM rating on Webers is a bit confusing to most people. It all depends on where your main venturis are, saying this setup has "XXXX" CFM is really only a paper guess, as that number will change mainly on the main venturi size. And that venturi size dictates more where the power they will ultimately produce...in combination with the cam.
Throw in ITB's and all of a sudden you chuck all the rules out the window. A set of 45mm ITB's can be a drivable streetable combination and make just as much HP as a set of 55 MM Webers, which would never be a streetable combination.
The downfall of a carburettor is it, by design, must restrict the airflow in order to work! If there is no restriction through a carburettor, there is no pressure differential, and therefore no fuel being metered out to the engine!
Take those same SU's from a stocker, bore them straight through after removing the suction dome, and you have two honking bores capable of flowing massive amounts of air compared with the standard SU.
Injection, gentlemen....injection! That keeps things looking stock to the casual observer, but the flow increases to the engine are far beyond what the same bodies would be capable of in carburetted form!
FWIW, was that CFM ratingfor the Rebello units per carburettor? They are vague on that point. Ultimately on the top end, the vacuum in the intake manifold will determine ultimate pumping efficiency of the engine, and therefore potential horsepower. Given 14.7 psia, and 9" Hg Abs on the manifold side, at 70 degrees, a 1.36" orifice should flow 365cfm....but that's a straight tube. See where I'm going with the logic? The stock EFI T/B flows almost that much, but does not require a 9" HG Differential in the manifold to function relating to atomization of the fuel...
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"???? What's you're problem. I don't remember anyone saying that the bolts had anything to do with boost or hp. It's just a strength issue."
Unless you're planning on pushing huge boost and incredible horse power number I don't think you need 9mm. But, getting the ARP bolts is still a must.Actually, it looked like you were implying boost or horsepower can be a factor in deciding wether or not to use 9mm bolts in that very quote.
As pointed out, reversal forces at higher rpms dictate rod bolt strength.
Boost and BMEP dictates compressile design of the rod beam.
Most of the stock comp-prepped rods will not sustain prolonged usage above 100HP per cylinder as beam breakage becomes an issue according to the testing Electramotive did in the 80's on their turbo monster.
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I'd second that, the L20ET cover is the same, and probably more available locally.
Incidentally, there are some plastic valve covers out there from the JDM, for heat insulation. And odd quirk to be sure. But I don't think they were on Turbos...
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I got one, but it's the IMSA Style, and I'm not parting with it. And like Stealth-Z mentions....I got it in Japan!
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HIF8's?
Do they make such an animal? They make an HIF6, which is similar to the 73/74 "Flat Top" carbs, except the nozzle height is adjustable with a screw on the side (much easier than the HS style nut under the body setup), with an auxillary air circuit for idle only. This makes for a carburettor that idles with proper A/F Ratio, but once you crack off the idle circuit, you run on needles that are much richer. Best of both worlds...
There are people making over 220 HP with the Stock Hitachi SU's, the manifolds flow suprisingly well. With CV Carburettors, the power level is really determined by jet diameter (the 2" Jag Units use a .125" jet I think...) so whatever Pounds Per Hour you can flow through that jet, it the Horsepower capability of the carburettors.
For all the talk of Triple SU's, every setup I ahve seen on L-Engines have been failures. Mostly because they use 46mm Hitachi Stockers. Way too much flow capability for the suction piston to lift and fully uncover the jet and give full fuel. For proper sizing, you really need 38mm SU's like on the SSS setup. Now you take some Fairlady Z L20A SU's, and stick three of those babies on a 3.0L Engine, you should have proper flow capabilities and jetting out of the box, with the ability of easily supplying 150 rear wheel horsepower easily, if not 180...
Lot of work for little reward, and dubious functionality over a set of properly prepped twins---those 38mm units will ultimately only flow about what the 46mm Twins will flow...
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There are reasons almost ALL turbo guys are going EFI... You can spend your $$$$ and time elsewhere on the car to make it go faster..
You do what you want, you called me closed minded, and got upset over being told facts of the matter. Then you implied I didn't know what I was doing or didn't try hard enough.
Do what you want, I'll not "shut you down" at all. Sorry I tried to explain my experiences, and you decided to be offended by it.
I'm kind of with olderthanme on this one, except I'll say "spend your $$$ however you want". From this point forward, expect only glowing stroking psycophantic praies for anything you wish to accomplish.
Dominate the thread? Hardly. Being thorough in my replies, absolutely. Remember my words so you can bring them back up later when you have done this all and proved us all wrong.
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anyhow tony ... your fond farewell and into problem less efi haha i can remember a MsS thread LOL
Seriously, Frank, the problems I have had with Megasquirt are NOTHING compared with what you go through tuning SU's! Seriously, I would trade electronic issues ANY DAY to trying to get fuel mixture correct in a peak band around best torque on some carburettors!
With the Megasquirt, it was totally experimental. Carburettors have been around forever, and the tuning procedures are well known. Problem is, as many people say, they are little more than a "controlled vacuum leak". This is not what you need on a turbo setup.
Carburettors work extremely well in two cases:
WOT and Idle. Anything in between they are absolutely HIDEOUS at maintaining AFR, as well as being tunable.
Would I trade my Blow-Through Mikuini Setup for an HKS ITB and Megasquirt Powered Setup: ANY DAY! And that's coming from someone who lived with the carbs daily for years. I had the Mikuinis running REALLY WELL, but to close your eyes to the shortfalls of carburetion, in light of the inexpensive EFI available today...well it's a bit closed-minded.
If you want to build a period car, and relive the 80's, fine. Just don't think you will get something with ANYTHING LIKE the driveability of what is available with EFI today. There is a reason the OEM's have gone to EFI on Turbocharged cars. If they could have kept their eixsting technology, they would have!
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I installed mine in the spacer between my 60mm T/B and the manifold. If this plate was made of Phenolic or lexan like pallnet was originally doing, there would be no heat-soak. I get some, but having the dual gaskets isolating it form the big manifold proper seems to help somewhat. I lined the sensor up inline behind the throttle shaft, so it's not getting hit with air directly, but turbulent air off the shaft at WOT.
My cold-start hole is where my idle bypass runs back into...
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I bought my 73 from a P.O. who had 930 flares knocked off and then bonded to the car. They fit well on a 240. Nobody could tell me what the flares came from then one day I rolled up on a 930 on Harbor Blvd at the cross street of LaHabra Blvd, and we both sat there looking at each other...
Two Turbos with big flares, and a Motor Officer with a radar gun just salivating at this prospect when the light turned green! LOL
To fight the temptation was almost insurmountable....
Yeh, looks like 944 to me as well.
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If you want to do something different and unique why not do a SINGLE 4 barrel carb and turbo it? V8 guys have been pushing and pulling air through them with forced induction for years!!! Just hardly ever on an L6 though.
Richard's Z&ZX Service was in the low 11's in the early 80's in a full bodied ZX with a HOlley 650 Draw-Through Setup. My 73 had over 350HP on a similar setup using a Rajay Turbocharger, and External Wastegate. See the post below on "Turbo Toms" Information---the four-barrel turbo L6 was actually quite a popular conversion into the 80's here in the USA. In japan, they went with blow-through mikuinis in the 70's, and went to EFI by 1985---if you were a serious competitor. Till 1989, the Carboy L-Engine Shootout still had a majority of top competitiors running blowthrough Mikuinis or OER carbs. There were only 3 EFI drive teams at that one... The next year it all changed, and the tide swung forever to EFI setups.
Both of those turbo-Z's I had were daily driven. The Mikuini car got the nod towards drivability. It averaged 17mpg at that power level (though when using power, it's mileage was more like 5mpg). The suck-through Holley wasn't that great on boost onset, nor drivability when cold compared to the Mikuini car, but on-boost they were about equivalent.
My Triple Mikuini Blowthrough was detuned with a smaller turbo and lower boost (as well as selling off the FMIC) to around 300-350 and was dialy driven 26K miles a year in Commuter Traffic in L.A. from 90-94.
Then EFI came Down the Pike that was affordable. And after dealing with suck-through and blow-through carburetion since my first Turbo Corvair upgrade in 1979, I BID CARBURETION A FOND FAREWELL AND NEVER LOOKED BACK!
So what do I know, eh? Feel Free to Carburate. Want to buy a four-barrel-to-turbo adapter, how about SU-to-turbo Adapter? I got all sorts of stuff laying around the containers out back. My goal for them is to construct a "period conversion" car for shows. Not to drive, gads compared to EFI vehicles they are HIDEOUS, but just to show the kids who never saw a carburetted turbo setup what it was like back in the 70's...
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I think Tony D is whay you might call "the bitter voice of experience" in this situation.
Indeed, feel free to tread the exact same path as other have done in the past, and call your self unique, simply because you are ignorant of other people's accomplishments. not throwing stones, here, just shaking my head and laughing at the "to be unique" argument. Veritech speaks the truth, my question was, reading everything you have to go through, logic should start coming in to the equation somewhere and you have to start weighing the amount of work versus the amount of return.
As for you 'plan' and bold comments, it sounds like someone more intent at being upset rather than listening to advice from someone who has been there.
In particular, this was kind of funny:
"take pros from both catagories and i pretty sure that both can get almost the same results w/ different methods of getting those results."
May be, but one using stone knives and bearskins will take a bit longer to tune your vertical hold than the one that comes iwth a diagnostic scope and a full modern set of TV Tuner's tools. At the top levels of racing, you will find when you look closely that most come to the SAME conclusion albiet through different paths, but what they end up running in the end usually looks identical to the other guy because some stuff really does work better than other stuff does. What you are proposing is a sub-optimal setup, you will work a lot to achieve results similar to what you can get on stock EFI manifolds and a boost controller. Prove me wrong, happy to see innovation...but don't kid yourself you are unlocking some overlooked performance secret!
So, before you blow up your engine, let me point out a few things you have missed in your latest plan, or downright have wrong, I'll take your points as you proposed them:
BLOW through:
1. carb must be sealed & pressurized (yes you can get a solid float, or mod the old one)
>>>>Carb needs a bonnet over the throat and accompanying float-bowl pressurization. Unless your throttle shafts leak like seives, sealing them in unrequired. If you must, running small tubes from your plenum to the throttle shafts to make a 'clean air buffer seal' arrangement is relatively easy.
2. ability to use an FMIC
>>>>True
3. throttle response instant
>>>>drivability like that of a N/A car throttle response wise, but also possible to boiil your fuel after long on-boost episodes (especially if non-intercooled).
4. must use a boost referenced fuel pressure regulator
>>>>wise in either case
5. YOU CAN BOOST HIGHER THAN 10PSI
>>>>in all caps, O.K., read below to get even more mad, and to start shouting even louder against the laws of physics
6. You will have to go with about a 14 psi fuel pump (see 4)
>>>>Plain WRONG! If you run a 14psi pump, you will be limited to 10psi. I call tell you FIRSTHAND that when you boost to within 1-2 psi of the fuel pressure (you say 14psi at the pump---what at the fuel bowl...12?) you end up RUNNING LEAN and the boost pressure pushes your fuel back up the pipe and deadheads you pump. You need an EFI pump, with the ability to keep AT LEAST 3psi ABOVE your boost pressure, or you WILL blow your engine from running lean. If you do not change your floats (the subject was SU's, so unless you are using the 73-74 Flat Tops with Composite Foats-----HEY, you said unique, maybe that is the EXACT carb setup you are using so you are truly "unique"!) you WILL collapse your float at 10psi. You will collapse Weber Brass Floats at 10 psi. Rochester Floats make it to 12 psi before collapsing. Where are you getting these composite floats for SU's again? Because it's a trick item, and I want some. Not throwing stones or being sarcastic, but countering people making assumptions and theorizing about stuff that they haven't tried yet, and may not know the whole story about. If ther eare composite floats available for SU's, then I don't know about them. (Oh, BTW, those Plastic Hollow Floats crack, take on fuel, and sink...they may not collapse like the brass units, but the fail in short order....) And the stock brass units collapse at 10psi, meaning that WILL BE your limit without changing the floats. If you don't change your floats, using a 14psi pump (oh, like a Holley Red, perhaps?) and 10-12PSI will be your limit before detonation kills your engine. I'm not arguing, I'm relating facts from firsthand experience and observation...
DRAW though:
1. easy, factory method
>>>>If you have a Buick, or other GM product from the 60's. BLOW THROUGH was the standard by the 80's on European Vehicles like the Lotus and Maserati BiTurbo.
2. cant use any type of air cooler
>>>>This does not mean you can't forestall detonation through other means of "charge air cooling"---such as methanol injection, or simple water injection. I personally have run over 20psi on non-intercooled blowthrough and draw-through systems. An intercooler is noice, but in some applications you simply don't have the room, and it's no big deal, you work aroudn it with alternate types of 'charge air cooling'.
3. tuning is more critical
>>>>If you think tuning is easier on one than the other, you are mistaken. If anything, tuning on a drawthrough is easier because of using the carburettor in the same state it normally is, with a vacuum source underneath it! Though once you go on-boost with an SU using a needle and no supplementary injection of fuel, you're screwed. Limit your boost, as there is only so much fuel you can pull through that jet, and unless you run a boost-indexted FPR (yes, on a draw-through) or some other way of raising the float bowl level HIGHER than normal while under boost, you will have one HELL of a time getting the on-boost AFR correct after 12psi. Using a Quadrajet, no problem. A pair of SU's might be easier to get the fuel, but I feel for the poor bastard who will have to calibrate them and make sure they are giving the right mix.... I shudder at that.
4. fuel to all 6 cylinders with one carb evenly is unheard of
>>>>ABSOLUTELY! But Fuel THROOUGH A TURBOCHARGER to all six cylinders is EASY! As Smokey Yunik said of the "Turbocharger"---it's not really so much a turbocharger as a "homogenizer"---AFR out of that turbine blade is VERY consistent. Getting the air to the six is the easy part.
5. throttle response is sluggish at first.
>>>>First? As opposed to later? I don't know what that is supposed to mean, but Throttle Response is directly related to intake length and velocity through the system. This should say "Throttle Response worse than blow-through" and that's about as far as you can take it.
6. no big worry of carb vacuum leaks
>>>>HAH! Vacuum leaks on this draw-through will equal DETONATION through running lean. On a Blow Through, the vacuum leaks will turn to (and that probably should say 'might') pressure leaks, which means fuel-air may leak out. On a draw through, you just run lean and detonate.
To sum it up, no, I'm not trying to shut anyone down, but give me a logical reason to go through ALL THIS when you can have the EXACT SAME LOOK, proper fuel distribution, and SAFE engine operation with far less work?
You feel free to make up anything you want, I encourage it. But to make a comment like this: "anything is possible, but are you good at it is the question.this seems to be territory were skill comes into play. can you design, build, modify, tune, and be successful? thats basically what it comes down to in the end."
Well, to put it mildly, it's downright insulting! Impugning someones' experience through an arrogant claim to say you are good at somthing...well let's just leave it at this: I've done this setup, I've made it work---you haven't as of yet. My question of WHY comes directly from that experience. You claim uniqueness. Well, fine. Then performance isn't the goal. Cool. Go for it! But don't think this setup is anything new, and if you think you can argue or change the laws of physics, then you are, indeed skilled to a godlike level, and we should all bow before you and drink of your intelligent succor when it comes to making 1930's techonlogy work the way it did in the 1930's.... Bravo!
There is a difference between being "open minded" and simply choosing to ignore some hard-learned facts from those who have been ther ebefore you...you are correct ronjiro, for someone posting here, I would have expected you to be a bit more open minded...
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Even more importantly on a car that cranks but does not fire....do you have spark as well?
You are not tromping on the pedal while cranking (giving the 'flood clear' signal inadvertently)...
Pulsewidth showing doesn't mean it's enough to fire the engine, especially if there is no spark on the plugs....
Do you see your fuel pressue fluctuate at all while cranking? Usually the bogger pulsewidth batch fire on simultaneous will draw down the fuel pressure enough to see it. If you don't see fluctuations, you may indeed not have injection events happening, but you have to also verify spark...
Is the Injector LED on the MS Box flashing, indicating the MS is sending an initiation pulse to the injectors? If it's not, then there may be something internal to the MS. If it is, then it may be external between the box and the injectors.
Just because you read it on the MT, doesn't mean it's actually physically connected and cycling the injectors.
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They have pills that are white with little prongs on them, they usually are sold three to a pack, in a range covering 1500rpm. So 6000, 6500, and 7000 would be in one pack.
You just swap them for whatever range you want.
They also have a splitter, so you can put two "pills" in at one time, as swap between them with a switch. I used a keyswitch in the ashtray, and when I had to valet park, I have a 7000 and a 2000 rpm pill. The Valet gets 2000rpm... And the keyswitch key stays with me.
My brother parked cars, I don't trust any valet.
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O.K. then, Sch40 Stainless, that's what I was looking for. It just looked thin for a Sch40. The wall thickness on Sch 40 is 0.145", as opposed to Sch 10 which is 0.109". Sch5 is somewhere around .085" if I recall, maybe 0.095"---been a long time.
BTW, Sch 10 is still PIPE, it is measured in exactly the same way as all other PIPE. Same as Sch 5... Which starts getting pretty thin, but it's still an ASTM Pipe Schedule Piece....
I think you can get "Tubing" which is actually thicker than Sch 5 stuff. But that is a different discussion, right?
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I still can't quite justify buying a milling machine for the amount of work I'd use it for.
Oh, come on now!
Justification for machine tools never hinges on the amount of work you will do with it, it rests solely on the fact that you need it for just this one project honey, and I'm sure I will use it on lots of other stuff once we have it here at the house!
Really! When does logic come into the purchase of machine tools?
Hell, I bought one, and still have to wire it up two years later...
But is sure looks nice!
I have seen cracks on the front crossmember in the past, yep, on solid mounted diffies. Cracked moustache bars as well, usually cracks coming from the holes for the rear differential mounting studs. Almost every R180 car I have picked up recently has had loose moustache mounting bolts as well.
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Yeah, $50K would be with you doing a lot of the assembly work yourself.
Buying one and restoring it may be a more prudent course.
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Tremec TKO2 and a Ford input spline on your clutch...
Shifts snick-snick-snick through the gears, with about a 1000 rpm spread between gears, and a nice overdrive!
$3400 though...
Then again, with G-Force offering 600ft-lb capable upgrades to T-5 Boxes, that also opens up a viable option...
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Well, you can do what I said... to make the carbs work. They might do it. But you will be limited to 10psi from those brass floats. For 10psi, why bother? IMO for that amount of boost, you will get more reliable response from the stock L28ET setup, using Megasquirt for fueling.
As olderthanme says, for the SU's on a N/A setup, you can make some serious "stock looking" power, yet have all the advantages of EFI.
For olderthanme, here are some interesting thoughts:
The crossbar linkage on the balance tube has an ID slightly larger by about .010" thatn a common hardware screw. If you get this screw with a shoulder on it, it is the EXACT same diameter as the stock Nissan "D" Shaft sticking out of the side of the T/B. Meaning file a flat on it, and it rotates in the same direction as the stock Nissan Throttle Position Potentiometer, so with a small plate on that front casting boss, and the screw stuffed into that balance tube crossbar, with the screw pinning it form roatating, you have your self a nice TPS setup for your "gutted" SUs... Using a tube and cutting the bores out of the SU body on a lathe using a boring bar makes for a nice insert for a 45 or 46mm Straight-Through throttle bore, which can utilize the stock air horns inside the stock air cleaner. If you do it F-1 style, and put your two large 550cc injectors in the air horn using a device similar to the Ford TBI setup on the 5.0 HO engines in a Mustang, or Crown Vic, you have a system that supports at least 215 HP, and all the tubing can be concealed in vacuum tubes...
Not that I have given any thought to hiding a system in stock SU's, or gone through preliminary mockup or anynthing.... LOL
Bad News for my Motor, internal damage :(
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
I'm going to have to butt in here and say something about coatings, in light of what or where this thread has turned.
First, coatings ARE prven quantities. Ceramic Coatings in particular. Similar to the "splitfire spark plug arguement" there are documented testing that was done on fully instrumented engines that prove their efficacy.
PROBLEM IS THIS:
Many times people jumpp on the bandwagon and start slapping stuff on pistons as a revenue generator. Application of the coating is almost MORE IMPORTANT than the coating itself. No matter how GOOD any given coating is at this or that, if it is not applied correctly it will crack off and peel away in short order!
This MAY be the case in Austin's engine, but for Austin to start making blanket statements that "ceramic coatings are worthless" based on anecdotal evidence found within his engine is just plain wrong.
What may be more correct is for Austin to say the coating he chose was worthless, or even more correctly, the application may have been incorrect.
I have Swaintech coated pistons in both our Bonneville Cars, and can attest to some oil temperature reduction, as well as protection of the piston head during some tuning miscues.
Remember if you were detonating, you were tuned wrong, and there lies a source of massive and well over-specification pressures that can cause flaking of shoddily-applied coatings.
All I'm saying is nobody should be making blanket statements based on this example. It's wrong, and FAR from scientific---there are MANY things wrong with this engine. Flaking of piston coatings is a symptom, not a cause!