Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Gingivitis, death? Hardly. Ingestion of lead leads to retardation in children, and insanity in adults...
There was a nice TV program one sunny day that had Larry Csonka in a tank cleaning it up (painter)---well, lead based paint, years of exposure, finally built up to a level where mr All Star had become quite agitated. Trick was to "talk him out" of the tank without anybody getting hurt.
I digress...
Primary problem with leading any Japanese Car from the 70's is thin metal! The stuff on the fenders and unitbody is so thin it tends to WARP like CRAZY when heated with a torch to tin the body and melt the sticks.
The car was designed with polyester filler in mind for body repairs. There is nothing wrong with using it. Metal-to-Metal sounds like a nice product to use if you don't want microbaloons in the polyester/epoxy matrix of your filler to absorb water.
I would stay away from the fantasy of "Leading" anything on the Z. Most all of the soldered joints on the car were hidden from view, and any that weren't were covered with polyester based filler before topcoating (the cracking "C" Pillar comes to mind).
Lead is not a panacea, anything bad that can happen with Bondo, can happen with lead. Period. It's just that it's MUCH more difficult to apply the lead, and 10X so on thin sheetmetal. This would include, for example, the sheetmetal on a 1977 Thunderbird Coupe---body class project that the owner insisted on having lead used because 'it was the right way to do it' and the instructor cursed the whole time applying it saying over and over 'this isn't a g**d**n 58 Caddy, it's a 77POS and this g**d**n sheetmetal is f*****g too g**d**n thin for this leading!' Ahhh, the days when the teacher could have a half smouldering stogie hanging out the side of his mouth (to light the torch, don't you know?) and actually not worry about P.C.B.S....
The one notable exception to leading 70's vehicles is the Air Cooled VW's. They were designed in the 30's, and basically had sheetmetal 2X as thick as needed to do anything it was required to do. My 62 Bus took to lead like nobody's business, but the instructor said that that sheetmetal was about as thin as you want to try to do any big lead repairs upon...
Learned a lot in that class. You can do it, but the question is, "is it worth it?"
In a sports car, where weight is a factor supposedly...
You decide!
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With the 145mm L20B rods and a tight ring stack (27 or 30mm pin height can't remember) and that slight offset grind compensating for the bore increase, the R/s is over 2.1 in our LSR car...
But as stated earlier, the early L20A rods are the same rods as in the other L-engines, there is no '128' length rod made specially for the L20A. It's the same as comparable L24 rods. The L28 went short at 130mm.
It's academic really, you will be getting custom pistons, put whatever pin height you require after measuring the components yourself! Nothing is fixed, crank can be offset ground a mm or so to play one way or the other...you can use the later rods with the smaller crank end journal size for even more movement of the stroke, and then finally pin height is adjustable within reason. Our tight ring stack probably isn't the best for a street engine (thin rings).
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You know, you can drive the one hour to Buffalo and pick it up there, as well.
Normally, I'm in Buffalo for training this month... I could bring a case in the trunk over and would meet you somewhere on the QEW where we would illicitly exchange US Naval Jelly for Canadian Coffee Crisps...
I thought my last case would last longer than it did. Same for the Nestle Kit Kats as well... Damn, next time I'm picking up TWO cases of each at the Costco off exit 41... LOL
Alas, I'm not scheduled for training this month. Probably going to be in Shanghai instead.
BTW, The Naval Jelly is usually in the "Paint Section" at HD and Lowes by my house. It is a Loctite Product, most industrial hardware stores will have this, Motion Industries usually is a vendor for Loctite/Permatex products. Kaman Industrial is another. Sorry, not a lot of exposure in that area to the stores... other than Costco, for the all-important Coffee Crisps.
Did I mention I like Coffee Crisps?
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yes, they were standard in the japan market from day one to at least 1988...
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Yeh... Bad shape carbs is a poor starting point for any project. Many times people say this setup or that is "so much better than SU's" but fail to even consider their setup was far from optimal in the first place. Hell, even with good SU's people rarely take the time to tune them correctly for modifications to other parts of the engine. People say they are "simple carburettors" but have never retapered a needle or checked metering stations under load.... eeh! Never again. LOL
For the flow increase you get by removing the carburetted restriction and running a straight through 50mm bore, EFI conversion of the carb system makes for a tantalizing prospect. It's suprisingly easier than most think if you aren't a stickler for making something look "extremely stock" though with a bit of effort 'hiding' EFI in an SU setup only takes a bit of work.
I saved that photo of the Triple Setup, it looks like stuff I end up with... people walk by and don't give it a second glance because it's "another stock engine"...it's the one guy in 100 that walks by, then does a double take and says "niiiice!" is it's own reward!
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Look for an L20ET manifold from a Cedric, Gloria, Leopard, or any other JDM 2-Liter L-Turbo Car from the mid 80's. The L20ET manifold is functionally identical to the L28ET manifold sold in the US Markets.
You should have no problems finding one of those locally.
Failing that, I can ship something to you surface, but like the seller said...it will take forever. Australia Post is horrendous! Even for regular first-class mail.
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Can't get diluted Phosphoric Acid in Canada? That is what the active ingredient in Naval Jelly is....and it's why Coke disolves rust as well as it does.
Deluging your car in Coke isn't a good idea, though!
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I'm gonna tell ya that ad is downright false advertising!
"Street Legal" My hind end! The lens has NEITHER the DOT-Required aiming device tabs, NOR the E-4 symbol signifying European Compliance.
So "Street Legal" means someplace like Bangladesh, or similar.
I have some Autopal "MSR" Headlights, which look similar to those advertised EXCEPT they actually have E-Code Compliance (beam pattern much like the Hellas). They were gotten from John at http://www.h4lights.com. He deals with Z-Car guys, and sells through the classifieds at ZC.C I believe.
For a cost not much more than the "total cost" of that last sale linked above.
John will give you good information for lighting, and he's also a Hella Distributor. If you want to pay as much for a single housing as you will for a pair of loaded Autopals that are functionally exactly the same, have at it.
For my money, one stone in a Hella makes my cry. A stone in an Autopal makes me laugh, cheap to replace.
Decision is yours. Like John says "Buy the best lighting you can afford!"
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I think it's illegal pretty much everywhere if you dont have a rear window, or a way too look out the rear... but dont quote me on that
You're quoted...
And nope, no requirement for a rear window in California. None whatsoever.
Check it out in the CVC, I didn't believe it, either!
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Like I said in my post I have not seen a set yet that worked correctly---obviously, we have never met.
So that doesn't change my post's correctness. I don't see it as any sort of 'p-contest'...
But make no mistake, there is far more to changing jets and needles to make a triple 46mm setup work correctly. Springs on the suction domes come immediately to mind...
I never said they couldn't be made to work. Just that I hadn't seen one setup that correctly functioned yet. Maybe one day I'll see yours...
For the effort involved, though...C-B-A comes into my mind.
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O Rly. Is there anyway to get that a little higher? I would feel safer with a higher oil pressure, I got the temp where I wanted it with the oil cooler. Does anyone know perhaps where to get an upgraded oil pump?
Thanks for the info Johnc.
Why do you want higher oil pressure? It absorbs horsepower, adds heat to the oil, and really doesn't benefit you at all. 10psi per-1000rpms was the golden rule for most applications, and they are going lower than that now...
Upgraded oil pump is the Turbo-Automatic Pump, or that same unit from Melling (in cast-iron)---but these aren't Chevys, "upgrading" is not really required.
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So Cal? Where?
If you want, you can come over and measure my Fairlady 280Z, it's still sporting the original wing mirrors. I can measure them when I get home from Phoneix some time next week. I'm only about 30 miles from Chino (215S and Van Buren-Moreno Valley, S of the 60)
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I have a pair of HS8 SUs that were part of a Vintage Racing project plan that got cancelled. They are from a Rover 2000 TC. I'll sell the pair for $250 if one of you guys are interested.
Reeeeeeeeeeallly....
I may have to stop by when next in town...
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PM Sent.
We use the L20B rod in the LSR car if memory serves. 145.5 mm I believe. Overbored .020" to clean up rusty bores, and then destroked accordingly to keep us within the 1998cc original stock capacity.
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205 RWHP on an L20A, so Crank HP on an L26 should be, as stated above "No Problemo"
And that's on the same dyno John C used dynoing his Rusty Old Datsun (Thanks for the recomendation, JC, they are a great bunch of guys!)
So that's "West Coast" horsepower... how that equates to SAE East Coast Horsepower, I don't know...
But the ITS Stock engine is a good point!
And everybody knows a cam is good for at least 30 HP "to the rear wheels" John!
;^P
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I was gonna say maybe the electrode broke off somehow and caused all those dimples, but very very doubtful. I guess you burned up whatever caused it.
I got three combustion chambers with "broken electrode" damage. Trust me, it doesn't look nice and symetrical and round like that! LOL
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Yeah, reading the PRI issue last year relating to "Marketing Potential in Coatings" I thought "oh no, this isn't good!" Guys start marketing stuff they get at jobber prices at markup with no time of effort expended on their part---pure profit on something with almost a 100% chance of NOT ever coming back as a warranty item!
I limit my coating sources to well-known application shops like Swaintech. In the PRI article, you could see a ot of the business that had been in it for some time always stressed proper application (both in getting the surface prepped correctly, as well as choosing the right coating for the environment for which it is being chosen.)
I know when I got ceramic coating applied to stationary ICE's, the results were startling---then again, this was almost 17 years ago now (early 1990's)---at that time ceramic coatings were exceedingly thick, and you had to ship parts to the manufacturer to get them coated as there were not a lot of places to get it done. Aerospace Black Art is what it was back then!
We had very good luck in extending valve life on heavily turbocharged natural gas powerplants using sour corrosive feedgas, as well as lowering oil temperatures and decreasing fuel consumption markedly. I'm talking in the order of over 75,000CF/D per powerplant. Heat rate (power produced per BTU Consumed) on the engines went markedly better after coating. At the time, our generation curve was low, and we were pinched for feedgas, so we ended up doing all three generators with this coating. At the same time, the Splitfire plug was new on the market, and they were good for almost 50KCF/D on top of the other gains from the ceramic coating---but they just had their electrodes eaten up too fast to make them economically viable.
The OEM was very interested in our treatments, but they didn't want to segregate their core stock between coated and uncoated cores. Ultimately they didn't incorporate it for this and the intial costs involved...then they phased the unit out of production.
We started out wanting to decrease heat absorbed into our cooling water system, and ended up with fuel savings and closer firing pressures between cylinders as an unintended benefit.
Of course we had a coating much different that what you had, it covered the crown of a Cast Iron Piston (about the only thing at that time that would take the application process!), across the entire combustion chamber, including the valve head (faces), and the exhaust port including the elbow where it attached to the exhaust manifold log.
To this day, I think that application in that manner is probably the only way to get "efficiency" payback off coating. Like dale mentions, coating the piston tops buys you time only. And even Swaintech will say that as well.
Like anything else, it's insurance. Actually, it may have saved you from burning the pistons instead of just the "sponging" you got. It's too bad the coating place couldn't give you feedback on what their thoughts on it's degredation are... normally there is a glass-beading texture under the heat-barrier ceramics. Some of this new stuff is really amazing at what it can do. But like all the EFI ECU manufacturers say about a WBO2 being hooked up to their systems "O2 Correction does not substitute for a properly mapped system"---I think with that much detonation (even if inaudible) you may want to pull some timing, or richen it a bit. The Methanol should take care of it straightaway, and I figure you will be able to run more advance on-boost then. Dyno time will be the best $$$ you have spent. Doing tuning on the street is hit-and-miss at best on the high end of the map.
What you might try to look for is a Dynapack Dyno for your mapping. These are the units that bolt to your axles. The first thing I noticed when using one of those the first time was how QUIET it was in the car! No wheel noise whatsoever. I know when JeffP was on the Mustang, we heard Detonation outside the car WELL before he ever heard it (if he heard it at all). And when he finally did "think" he heard it on his final pull, it was a full 700rpms after the dyno operator and I heard it clearly---I was in the panic "CUT CUT CUT!" mode giving signals like crazy to back off it was SO bad outside.
That Dynapack is neat. You hear everything BUT wheels. Transmission bearings, Axle and Differential stuff...really neat to do at least once.
Good Luck at the dyno!
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LOL. O.K.
"I stand Corrected"
BTW, 6035 Ft is different that 7000 feet, so giving for the 15.9% exaggeration in elevation applied to the 10K rpm redline claim, I see that it equates to a 8621 rpm redline. Which is at least somewhat believable. Dave Rebello would laugh in your face saying he ever said he made an 11,000rpm L-Engine. He gets those 320HP numbers at well below five digit engine speeds...
ROMFALOL
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But you have to drill holes at the points of interest, mount a nipple, and run tubes thru the tunnel floor to the basement below the tunnel, which is where the sensors are located. Pressure gradient along the hood would be interesting, but would require a sacrifical hood and eat up a good bit of wind tunnel time setting it up.
jt
Some who know me once commented "I can see you doing that"! And that's exactly what is required. I only took pressure plots using manometers and static pressure probes at several areas and with only the purpose of validating where I wanted to place a vent or opening for feeding air to something.
That would be a nice countour plot to have. I used an epoxy putty to stick to the bottom of the hood (and cowl) to make the mounting points for the probes---it was easy enough to grind off afterwards and covering up the holes was easy enough as well. One thing to keep in mind (and I agree with MikeKelly's comments about listening to the pros) is that manu times the pros have a specific way of doing things that may be really accurate, or repeatable, but damned time consuming for a test like this. Setting up a grid of holes and epoxy stuck mounts pre-hosed onto a hood or other component may make for some quick changes short of making proper pressure probes and mounts. The pressures you should be dealing with shouldn't be high enough for you to worry about properly threaded nipples, or the like---I'm not advocating bubble gum and spit to hold the probes to the thing, but pretty close! Epoxy Stick is amazing stuff, and when put onto a waxed, painted surface pops off easy enough afterwards. Bondo is also another nice, machineable media that holds threads for nipples as well.
I really wish I was closer. With 22 cars out back, there is a decently straight hood out back that just begs to be drilled and set up like this.
Thinking along this line, does John Coffee have a rejected FRP example suitable for drilling? Then again, it all comes back to time and it's sounding like the plate is extremely full, so in retrospect, I'll shut up now!
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I put an Autometer directly into the dash of my 260 by simply wrapping some electrical tape around the outer diameter and stuffing it rightly into place.
I connected directly to the wiring harness using the original wire for the old tach.
The ONLY problem I have had is that the Autometer Illumination works OPPOSITE the rest of the dash: turn it down low, and the thing is brilliantly illuminated, turn the rest of the dash up to bright using hte dashboard rheostat, and the tach is dark as a moonless night. Maybe someone can figure out that glitch, but I don't normally run the dash lights bright at night anyway, so it is all evenly illuminated on mine.
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The short answer is no. All the Vin number will tell you is HLS30.... It's a left hand drive 240Z thru 280Z Datsun. It was the 404,431 car produced of the S30 model. LARRY
Actually, It does and it doesn't.
It tells you it's either a 240 or 280. RLS would be a 260Z
Given the number (over 156466 or thereabouts) chances are good it's a 280Z, but early model 280Z's would have similar Numbers as the early 240's, save they have a couple more Zeroes preceeding them. My 1970 is HLS30-06225, where the Six-thousand-two hundred and twenty-fifth 280Z would be HLS30-006225.
But like he said, "the short answer is no"---you have to break down the vehicles by observed list of options installed at the factory and physical observation.
Dropping the moustache bar or differential is not that big a deal to clean it out of accumulated sludge and positively identify the ratio---though as stated it's usually 3.545 in the 280's.
Good Luck.
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"I plan to have my car into a tunnel (Langley tunnel down in the Tidewater) prior to attempting my 200+ mph run. If I am incorrect about my designs, I would much rather discover it in the tunnel than while I am in the car!"
Someone thinks alike! LOL
I think that was a post somewhere else during "the dark times" when someone poo-poohed this idea. The thought of spending $3500 to make a run to 260mph in a tunnel to reveal any nasty aerodynamic gremlins that may creep up is cheap insurance! (compared to the cost of full prep, and then a crash)
On a stock bodied car like I will have to drive, doing this before sinking all that money into the vehicle makes a lot of sense as well.
Even to 170mph, the results will be interesting on an S30 (even though we know a 1976 2+2 will go at least 173.325mph with a G-Nose, Full Belly Pan, and blocked off Radiator Inlet opening...)
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Nissan had FRP pieces for the 240, they accepted all the window mechanisim, and even had Perspex windows for even further weight reduction.
I have no doubt those will accept the window mechanisims, they look to be knockoff Nissan Units. It would be nice if they showed a photo of the backside of the doors.
I had to pass on a set of those doors in 1985 as they were $600 for the pair (including the "nissan" branded perspex rollup windows!) Yes, Yes Yes, I was in idiot, I know.... In 1991, another set showed up in Phoenix, I bought the car, but the owner kept the FRP Hood, Doors, and Hatch that were on the car at the time---all JDM pieces put on the car in 1976. Kills me to think of it to this day...
They indeed are nice. Take the springs out of the hinges if you install them... Same for the gas strut in the back--the stocker used a prop-rod!
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"Smaller is not an issue for me so I can always roll back the cam specs and do more testing."
I wonder where that cam will go when JeffP "Rolls Back"?
LOL
Healight Covers - Metal Trim
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
May sound sacreligious, but why get hung up on METAL rings?
Why not simply have an injection moulder do a set in palstic that you have vapor-chromed.
Looks will the identical (you don't really torque the hell out of them anyway to get them ot fit), and cost and reproduction would be much cheaper. Replacements are a few $$$ Away afterwards.
I mean, millions upon millions of chrome grilles are produced for Ford/Nissan/Dodge/Chevy/TRUCKS, and there is no real downside to the plastic on the front of the vehicle...
I have a set of the rings, and a RIGHT cover (or was it left...) whatever side I didn't hit, that's the cover that is still intact. The covers will break if you hit something concrete, though the ring seems to survive with minor tweakage...