Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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The relay box is set up for engine room usage, the MS is not.
Had my interconenct sensor cables been long enough I suppose I could have moved that into the kick panel also, but one way or the other you will have to make a harness longer. So either your sensor harnesses are longer, or the pigtail moves you remote.
Not everyone is installing these in Z's. A VW Bus would be better served with the ECU up front, where you can monitor it, hook up to it, smell it burining while the relays are all out back where they need to be.
Another thought would be that with a pigtail, it allows you flexibility in routing where stuff goes. The way I wired some stuff, that straight through connector would send some wierd signals to the box from what I did underneath the relay board conecrning power taps for the heated O2 sensor, CSV, etc!
Also, remember you will have to run your power wires to the relay board, meaning power wires through the firewall.
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A L O D I N E
That is the trade name of the stuff, and just about any place that does any sort of small aircraft engine work will be able to give you a small vial to touch up what you need to do.
It is the stuff that gives aircraft aluminum that off-color tan gold look.
Alodine. Aircraft Spruce Co in Corona sells it by the gallon... But you only need a bit to touch up what you did.
FYI, I redid the entire upper throat area including the fuel distribution "trees" in the throats of my Corvair almost 15 years ago now (hacked up NOS Carbs, believe it or not!) and to this day I have not gone in and retreated with Alodine. I have no corrosion yet. But this is SoCal... and the car has sat for extended periods, so I dont' thing the corrosion will be a big deal. But if you "want it to look sotck and untouched" then alodine is the way to go! You can stick the whole thing in there and boil the whole carb so it all looks like new...
You went this far, why not! LOL
Oh, and as for a 2" hole only being a 2" hole, to visualize it look crossways at the plate: The turbulence caused by the SHARP EDGE of the hole will make the air at the upper edge tumble towards the center of the orifice, with fluid flow only happening across about 1.750" of the orifice.
When you add the velocity stack, you get linear flow through the WHOLE orifice since there is no tumbling of the air around the outer edges.
In reality, a 2" hole in a flat plate, is actually quite a bit smaller due to the turbulence. One with a velocity stack is actually a full 2" of useable, unturbulated space.
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What the stock 240 system did through it's diverter vavle was to allow pressure to build in the tank (say from expansion on a hot day) to a set pressure of water column pressure. It then discharged to the vehicle's crankcase.
While cuel got sucked out of the tank on a drive, the same diverter valve vould allow filtered air from the air cleaner back into the tank while driving along.
We just had a club member go on a drive after finally replacing all his vent hoses in the back of the car. He ended up sucking the filler neck flat! Come to find out for years he had been running the little vapor line up front with a nice sanitary vacuum cap on it, and with all the leaks in the vapor hoses, it never made any difference.
The Carbon Cannister used the Charcoal as the storage medium, until startup and that flapper valve opened to let it purge into the manifold. Similarly, the vapor return line to the back of the car did the same function on the vehicle when driving down the road: let air into the tank to keep a vacuum from being pulled as the fuel was pulled out of it by the fuel pump.
Keeping fuel system integrity is easy if you know how they test the tanks. A small series of check valves (I despise PCV valves, they almost universally leak!) works to keep the "test pressure" on the tank during a fuel system pump up at check time (if the garage actually has the tank adapter!)
If anything , the easiest way to make sure it all works is to simply relocate the carbon cannister to the rear of the vehicle. Some other vehicles have smaller cannisters that would make packaging easier, but "may not" adequately provide for enough storage capacity for vapors. This will have to be your decision. In many cases as long as it's all hooked up and in place, they will let it go through the system on a check. If only functional stuff is required, then mixing and matching components will make for easier packaging.
The vent line for the EVAP comes off the top of the phase separator annyway from what I recall, so as long as it's hooked up so that it only gets gasseous fumes, you should be fine. But for the effort of relocating it to the rear of the vehicle, sticking it out in the fenderwell behind the headlight, or in the back portion of the wing behind the wheel would be just as easy, and require far less custom tubing to be done.
I agree, all PCV systems are a metered vacuum leak, this is why it's important to let it distribute evenly to all cylinders! In many cases with total closure systems (Think ITB's with an IAC motor on a log) the PCV may need to be restricted by an orifice as small as .050" to keep from the high vacuum incidents (snap throttle closed) from sucking oil out of the crankcase and into the manifold! I have a Mitsubishi PCV that fits in the hole int he side of the block, it has an .063" orifice built in (sorry, been almost 15 years since I installed it, no model information or tech specs) and it distributes through a 1/4" line manifolded into each intake runner, off my 3/8" balance tube.
Hope this helped in some measure...
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Oh man my car is ugly' date=' but it will get painted one of these days. I am just having too much fun driving it. Here is another pic from the front. I welded mounting brackets to the car for the lower IC mounts.
[img']http://album.hybridz.org/data/500/8239S_npr_front_view-med.jpg[/img]
Ugly Car Club Charter Member #2 here, after Moby, of course! LOL
Actually, most of my cars are ugly. Who has time to paint?
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FYI don't get hung up on the semantics of what Nissan calls a "Head Temperature Sensor".
It is a glorified WATER TEMPERATURE SENSOR, and has the EXACT same response curve. I have used the CHT and WTS interchangably in Megasquirt applications, as well as when retrofitting Earlier ECUS in earlier S30's with later engines.
The only difference is that the CHT is a little slower to respond initially, and once warmed to operating temperature reads a bit hotter than the WTS (but only on the line of 5 to 15 degrees F).
I would not make someone get a CHT and install it, in my experience using the stock Water Temperature Sensor for the original ECU pickup in the Thermostat housing works just as well, and the ECU never knows the difference.
Perhaps you could take my readings into account, and if a customer specifies he's using the Thermostat Mounted Sensor, you could skew the CHT tables 10 degrees F colder and therefore get the same curve as from the CHT.
Realistically, I dont' even think that will be necessary. What I have noticed is that at idle, the CHT normally reads in the 140-150 degree range with a 160 degree thermostat, so maybe warmup may need some redefining. it is not a problem with my setup, (MS-n-S) as all my warmup enrichments are out by 130 degrees F anyway.
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Just a Bizzare second thought I have had while observing the modified plate in action.
Seems Nissan put the TDC mark at a different place than their paddles. The paddles were advanced for the CAS in the first place. But while your TDC mark that I made actually reflects piston position, I ended up sing the paddle position for timing on the other side. THAT is why the timing is dead on with the paddle, and wherenver I try to trim to the TDC mark I made (like Nissan) I can't get the thing to run!
It is better using a paddle for timing readings anyway---it's far easier to read.
Unless you make two marks reflective of TDC, and the exact same offset on the CAS side of the pulley it's almost impossible to tell where the timing mark will end up.
My advice from this point would be to mark the TDC simply for reference in the future, but know that timing directly off the paddle over on the CAS side of things will make your life easier.
Even if it does look like you are firing 60 degrees advanced based on your TDC mark...
:rolls eyes:
I may play some more, but it works all as written, maybe I'm overthinking the mechanics involved here anyway...
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Went for a drive today, got tons of intermittent ping while on boost.
Thought for a while it was soething "too good to be true" on the conversion, then looked at my spark bins, and found an alternating "36" in every other bin along the full load (170KPA) line! D'OH! Went back and made one pull with the laptop on in "follow mode" and sure nuff, rrrrrrPing! rrrrrrPing! rrrrrPing! changed the bins to the "24" and "26" they should have been, and on the return trip pulled hard, and not a hint of spark knock!
Like I tell everyone, always start tuning a system at low boost, and on the stock bottom end, one error like that on high boost and it would have been BOOM! LOL
How they got changed I have no idea, I must have had them in ther for a test earlier, and forgot to change them back after the test. Whew!
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I would agree with ZCar Nut.
My first thought was
1) that your VR might be bad
2) that you have corrosion on your sensing wire.
I recently replaced a "new" VR because it fried. Remember that you can have NO POWER applied unless the case of the external regulator is GROUNDED!
What I did was to run a separate line (#12) fromthe case of the external voltage regulator to the star ground point on the chassis just below the battery.
This modification ALONE stopped my voltage seeking problem. Before depending on what accessories I was runnning, the voltage out of the alternator would be anywhere from 12.9 to 15.3 VDC+!!! After the addition of this ONE ground line, the voltage dropped to an almost universal 13.8-14.5VDC no matter WHAT accessories were on the circuit. After finding some corrosion on the sensing lines, and making some corrections and cleanings, the voltage stabilized even further to closer to 13.8 - 14.2 VDC.
The big thing is that now I have 13.8 at IDLE as opposed to 12.9 or lower before!
Sensing wires and bad grounds kill electrical components. Make sure they are all up to snuff. And if you have a 260 or 280Z with the external regulator, my little #12 wire for the ground is ESSENTIAL to you not frying your reg! The thing mounts to a bracket that mounts to the chassis. That's two junctions of bolts and painted metal to corrode causing this drift. Not to mention that if you remove the bracket and it's powered on the battery (like for troubleshooting) POOF! There went that NEW VR!
That Pigtail I added allows you to remove the battery and gain access to the regulator and not loose it's ground path. Preserving it for another week at least! LOL
Good Luck!
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Moby, you may want to consult JeffP's Extreme 280ZXT Webpage on Anglefire for his older turbine specifications. I know when rolling in second gear at 3000rpms, when he nailed it 23# was instantaneous. He was getting boost around 2500 if I recall.
http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/
And it incorporated a cut stock turbine housing, with some other center section and compressor section. I believe he actually has one or two of those housing still laying around his garage still. He held on to the stock manifold (with some hand porting to the inlets and turbo flange area) to 450HP. His last tests indicated 23psi exhaust manifold backpressure at the turbine inlet, to 23psi intake manifold plenum pressure at 7000rpms in second gear.
Testing those numbers in anythign but second would be suicide! LOL
He had a really boosty-responsive setup and used that log manifold to 450HP...
Now you want to make some real power, snag one of those Euro Manifolds! They have internal passages bigger than the 1 5/8" Tube Headers SoFla Performance was making! The only restriction on that unit seemed to be head port exit, and that was easily portable to help with the flow! But I digress...
Good Luck!
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I finally had a chance to do my pulley mod as in the sticky.
Linky: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/735451/9
FINALLY I have a timing mark that MATCHES my timing light! WooHoo!
Finally I am getting a full 40 degrees advance during the high vacuum, high rpms sections of the map. The engine is MUCH freer on the top end of the rev range as the adjustability of the CAS screw only allowed me to get maybe a total of 28 to 30 degrees total advance.
So I moved the pin hole to line up the Timing Wheel one bolt rotation advanced. I found that a 13/64'th transfer punch will work perfectly for transferring the hole from one timing wheel to the other (I sandwiched two together, one in the stock position, the other advanced on top of it, bolted to an old pulley), and using the same sized drill bit also allowed a nice tight fit on the factory Nissan Dowel in the back of the pulley.
The ONLY thing I did differently, was I lined up the trigger to the CAS line 8 "nubs" off from the place it set after finding TDC and marking it on the other side of the pulley. This 8 "nub" offset allowed me to set "120" on the spark Trigger Angle (what I figured was it was the roughly 72 degrees difference, plus the 30 degrees from the 8 "nubs" and some Kentucky Windage in aligning the CAS on the Bracket).
This puts the timing mark RIGHT at 9 degrees at an 850rpm idle speed, and well in advance of the scale's 30 degrees during a rev-up.
I have set no offset in the other screen. I will now work on the lights to get legal, and then start doing some road trimming. For once I can do something on the car, and it is actually verifiably tracked in the MSSTune.
Again, WOO HOO!
IMO, I would not even TRY to dick around with adjusting the 81CAS, while the engine is out of the car, pull and modify the pulley, get your TDC marks set up on the altered timing plate, and bolt it all together before installing it in the car. I pulled the radiator to get to this stuff because I did it in-car. Putting the 81 CAS back to "TDC" is something you will have to do BEFORE you pull the pulley off also. Marking it after the mod is easy using typical TDC finding methodologies.
I am really suprised by how much better the car runs with the extra advance available!
Moby, feel free to use as you see fit to incorporate the photos in your sticky if you want...
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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
The wiring of the + side DOES NOT CONNECT TO THE FIDLE!
The + ONLY connects to the B terminal on the GMHEI setup. You wre SHORTING THE MODULE!!!
You will BLOW something in the FIDLE driver circuit trying to hammer the MS with the current draw of a coil!
The + Terminal will also have a 12V supplied to it, from the ign switch...
Why didn't you wire it like the Moby Stickie?!?!?!?!?!?
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240zprace...
Do you have any photos of your setup. I have NEVER seen an AFM in a boost area.
EVER.
The airfolw would logically be Air Filter, AFM, Turbo, Piping, FMIC, BOV (to ATM or recirc), Throttle Body.
EVERY setup I have seen in the past 20+ years has been set up in that configuration.
I need to see your setup to see how you converted it to Pressurized Airfolw through a box with no in-to-out sealing capabilities.
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Alan Pegged It, this is a post of dubious heritage, and that's being extremely charitable.
"L" was a simple configuration designation, you are crossing VIN designations into the Engine Classifications. Amongst other things.
This will become one of those "reference posts" that will perpetuate evil internet myths ad nauseaum.
Not even close!
As for LD28, That's a DIESEL. Now if someone converted it to EFI and Gasoline, then that wouldbe one thing, but its' still an LD28. The manufacturer sets the engine designations, not aftermarket builders.
L31 anyone? it tells you what it is, but it's not a Nissan Designation.
As for the RB-S motor connection, I'm getting charged up and will stop now, before I go off the deep end. There is not a connection, one did not evolve to the other. Not even close.
:rolls eyes:
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blower, supercharger, turbo... Both a blower and a turbo are superchargers...
They are all forced induction engines. A turbo will use a different piston than a blower.
I would go with the second piston with the first ring pulled away from the combustion chamber, and a dish to concentrate the fuel air mix at ignition into a central turbulent area.
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"I was planning on moving the stock afm between the intercooler and the intake "
Simply stated, "Won't Work!"
The AFM is NOT a pressure-flow device, it is designed to work against a vacuum applied to the backside of the throttle plate. The housing is not desigend to work in a pressurized environment.
The AFM measures raw airflow into the engine from the atmosphere before ANY compression devices act upon it, simply because it's the easiest and most accurate way to measure without a bunch of sensors.
Otherwise, there would be some polytropic head computation algorithim to figure out exactly how much pressureized air was cicrulating through...... We don't need that...
So long and short: "Wont Work!"
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this was not how I read the schematic, the 77 I helped hook up had a four and two resistor setup. But there was still a single power wire, and six wires out tothe injectors. We simply grouped them three and three on the ground side.
You group the resistors to the GROUND side, the power all comes from ONE source, even though the relay board provides separate leads for them.
You may have them grouped backwards! The fuel pulsations on simultaneous fire are extreme at idle, the only way we got smooth EFI pressure was to alternate the banks, 2 squirts per cycle, no pulsation that was noticable after that change.
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92 mm is a very common and popular VW bore. Aircooled FORGED flat-top pistons are CHEAP for them, with rings. So are 94mm Bore. You would have to check pin height, as they can be ordered with a VERY big range of heights for the different rod combos people use in the VW powerplant.
But Cima, Mahle, etc all make pistons for the VW in those bores, along withthe spun-cast barrels which you would probably trash.
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Actually, Mack, the Dart Heads on a SBC are something totally different.
They keep same valve spacing and configuration, as well as having similar water inlets and outlets. Basically they are a "reworked stock head". A more valid comparison would the the DOHC or pushrod 4-valve heads that you can buy for a Chevy. They are almost universally disallowed in most racing sanctioning bodies' regulations due to costs.
The SCTA will class that head as a definite class changer due to having more cams than stock, so it moves the cars from PRO(duction) to MOD9ified) where the speed to make a record are sometimes 50 and 75mph higher!
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we took some notes with intentions of doing this very thing, I have not reviewed it as of yet, but will and compare to the notes.
Instead of throwing stones, we should all help with some experience, to make it better for the poor bastards who follow us. The better and more complete he makes this site, the less we have to repeat ad naseaum to new guys.
I say thanks for posting it! It looks great at first casual perusal, and I will be in contact with any photos or comments I have on the site to make it better for the next guy.
This is really needed for guys doing this "cold turkey" and having a clear site made p of common shared experience will, in the end, be the best site it can be, and help as many people as possible without them having to come here to ask questions...
And that should be the goal.
Again, THANKS!
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reply posted at ZC.C
configurable output, relay, and a solenoid is all you should need to enable it.
pretty simple if you understand how the EGR system works.
Good Luck.
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Yeah, what is the flex unit in the middle of the bottom photo from?
It looks like it would be a direct replacement or would work on the Nissan EuroSpec exhaust manifold. What is it's diameter?
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Jeff Priddy is running 72#/hr injectors on his JWT setup, and from charting the pulsewidth, MS should have little problem handling those for a smooth idle, so 60's should be a breeze.
With the software upgrades recently, the dual table and hi-res tables make humongo injectors possible, if you need that sort of thing... LOL
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On the floor?
I can barely reach the steering wheel, shifter, and door latch when I am strapped in! I need the remote activation!
Arm tethers do that to you...
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Canton Accusump!
I will not AutoX my turbo cars without one ever again. They SAVE turbos. and if you get the "electric kit" you can use it for prelube also.
the nice thing about it is you can turn it off before the car, and then on to post-lube the engine if you want, tooo.
These systems have been around for years. I use them for g-load and oops prevention.
There are supplementary oil pump kits that will prelube the engine also. There is all sorts of cool stuff out there if you go looking for it.
The accumulator on that one looks a bit light, though. I trust my Canton, with my engine's life!
Can i use the stock tps?
in MegaSquirt
Posted
I used each of the following at one time or another:
91 Stanza TPS (Potentiometer) from an SR20
240SX TPS (Potentiometer) from a KA24
91, 92, 93 Mazda 929 TPS (Potentiometer)
Some Ford TPS on a 70mm Throttle Body
A GM TPS (Potentiometer)
Whatever throttle body you choose to use, the later the vehicle the better, as the chances are good it will have a TPS and not just a switch.
The Mazda was the only odd man out, as it had more wires than the rest...
But the Mazda Throttle Body also had an integrated ADJUSTABLE idle air bypass circuit! Same as the Ford unit.