Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
"The car is screaming on the hwy 65mph@3100rpm (not cool). Is there a way to resolve this problem? "
60 or 65mph at 3100rpm IS cool, and NOT a problem!
You are just below peak torque at cruising speed on the highway, making for PERFECT top gear roll-on throttle response. You will be in the HEART of the tourque band on a stock engine, and will accellerate briskly.
This is not a problem, and is not affecting your terminal top speed, either. If you speedo was DEAD ON, you top speed would theoretically be 120 to 130mph at 6200rpm.
My old Fairlady Z with a factory direct-drive four speed and a 3.70 gearing, with STOCK HEIGHT TIRES would pull 6350rpm at 200KPH. Some math involved, but that's dead on, and I NEVER had a problem with that car.
Currently my 75 2+2 runs at around 3500rpm at 70mph, though that may have changed since installing the 45 series tires, so I may be running slightly higher.
For a Z-Car whatever your average cruising speed on the highway is determined to be, you should gear it so the vehicle is turning around 3000 to 4000 rpm (depending on perfomrance bias) at that speed.
From what you tell me, your car is running perfectly fine, and there is absolutely no problem.
It's not a V8 that will float the vlaves at 4800rpm...
-
wrong place to ask that question!
I have to agree with John: most people can't drive their STOCK 240 or whatever to 10/10ths before they start gobbing in more power.
More power makes you lazy as you think you can always "make up time" on the straightaways. Watch the old Corvette/Lotus battles of the early days of televised roadracing and you will see this laid out very well.
A balanced machine will ALWAYS be faster than one with just one good attribute. Building a car that you can never drive to it's fullest is both sad, and a sorry waaste of good resources.
-
nothing horrible about cutting it, you get a sandblaster, set up a template for the window size you want, duct tape it or glue it to the glass, and have at it at about 60psi using fine aluminum oxide or slag.
you will slice through the layers of glass and laminated plastic in short order. This is how shops cut down glass for chop-tops.
If you have a steady hand, and a fine point nozzle, you can get away with just ductaping whatever you don't want cut so you don';t make pitts in the glass and have at it, but I have always used a sheetmetal shield.
As for Lexan or Polycarbonate, you can easily get it to the "right curvature" using several industrial guns (I like the adjustable steinel) hooked to an extension cord blowing into a small "furnace" you make from bricks on your concrete driveway. Lay he polycarbonate sheet on an elevated piece of sheetmetal, and have theheat guns blowing across the bottom of the apparauts (indirect heat) to raise the internal temperature to around 300 degrees (just where the plastic will droop). Pull the cover and exhaust stack off the top, grab the oversized piece of sheetmetal and polycarbonate sheeting with some heavy gloves and slap the polycarbonate onto the back window---it will assume the same droop, and re-harden that way. Then all you do it cut it to size with a Zip Cutter like for drywall.
Far easier than sandblasting, and cleaner, too! You can control the heat guns on a multiple plug outlet strip, by running an extension cord through an electric oven thermostat that will maintain and regulate the heat in your makeshift "polycarbonate heating oven"!
Yeah, I had lots of time on my hands to experiment when I was younger!
-
hydxraulic flow and pressure are hydraulic flow and pressure.
The 240 I know of used brand X rack, and the easily available and pre-made bracketry affordable 280ZXT pump to drive the racks internals. Worked just fine.
I have seen GM pumps on Fords, Chrysler Pumps running snow plough cylinders, Nissan pumps converted into a PTO for a logsplitter on a front mount hitch, and GM pumps used as PRESSURE WASHER PUMPS!
So the pumps are very versatile. Very versitile indeed!
-
I think you will need to have one helluva large blowoff dump valve to dump positive pressure off the carburettors during idle and drop throttle conditions.
Surge was not the problem, it was a condition under light throttle where the plenum went to "0" pressure almost instantly, and the carbs have a presistent lean stumble in this area. They will cough and lightly pop no matter WHAT you do. The only way to stop it is to use a larger plenum sized like HKS Surge Tank, and add modulator rings as the Maserati BiTurbgo did on the Dellorto's in it's blow-through configuration. I would go wet supercharger---you don't really need intercooling with a wet system and only 9psi. Lynn Burkhardt of the Ontario Canada club runs 12 to 17psi on his blower, but he's EFI...
And has been since 1995 at least.
I wonder why...
-
woah waitaminit here? are we calling things the same terminology here?
Is this FMU some sort of electronic gizmo that manipulates the injectors, or is is simply a variable rate FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator?)
As you saw in my original post on this subject, a fixed rate FPR is all you need, jacking up the fuel pressure and solving for the new delivery rate to enter this into the MS unit.
Tuning around a variable FPR would be actually simple if you know what maximum pressure you run at under full boost: simply do the calculation for terminal total flow from a single injector, enter it as the injector size in the Ms during setup, and compensate off boost by lowering the VE number to give less duration and fuel delivery accordingly...
Fairly simple, actually, and would get you VERY close the FIRST TIME OUT instead of GUESSING (which is what many people call "tuning").
Some basic math beforehand makes for a lot less headaches and things that go "boom" afterwards...
-
I thought I answered that before.
The owner of the car is Dave Glidewell and he is a longtime Member of Group Z of SoCal.
The engine was dynoed around 345, which is not really pushing this setup, I have seen 450+ from these type of setups using proper surge boxes in Japan in the mid to late 80's...
The smaller box he has on there is horrendous on the transient suffering from a "0" boost condition at speed with even the stock compressor. There needs to be more plenum volume so slight transients do not result in you going into boost immediately as there are problems with using SK and Mmikuinis in this service (and webers are worse...) The only carbs really set up to handle this kind of application out of the box are Dellortos with the Turbocharged emulsion tubes, sealed throttle shafts, and the proper modulator rings at the front of the main venturi...
Dave and I have run these systems for a looooooooong time, I first installed mine in 87. I saw the light. Standalone EFI is FAR superior if you want a daily driver in the heat. I did drive mine daily to and from work in SoCal, and averaged 17mpg with it (better than some guys with SU's!) but when you flog it don't expect anything much more than 5mpg... So that's about 70 miles before you fill that tank again with high-test...
-
exactly how does something "emulate" larger injectors?
I mean, I can see if you jack up your fuel pressure, and use it as a variable in an FMU it would back down duty cycle "like" larger injectors were installed, but if you do the simple delta equation of fuel pressure and delivery before, and fuel pressure, delivery after, and solve for delivery after, and enter THAT number into the Megasquirt, it, too will "emulate" bigger injectors in the exact same way!
The FMU should be totally unrequired with the Megasquirt, it would "tune around" the FMU just like you could "tune around" a AIC---but you really don't need to, if you only have one set of injectors, you can tune it all with the MS, regardless of you fuel pressure...
BTW, you can actually buy two MS units, and run them on two different banks of injectors, making for a 'staged' injection scenario. Basically run spark and fuel to full duty cycle on one unit, and set thesecond bank of injectors to come on where the first unit's duty cycle maxes out. You simply make the first bin about 500rpm below where the injectors go static on the primary system. This would allow about 550cc per cylinder from a set of two stock Turbo Injectors...
And if you used those 550CC ford units from the TBI engines, you could have around 720CCs...
Now I got Bastaad whirling, don't I?
-
To clarify, this is for a swap into an early S30 model, and not a replacement for an S130 unit, correct?
-
turbo manifold is identical between L20 and L28.
The stock L20ET made 145HP stock, so 200HP is not a big deal.
Boost on.
It's late, I'm tired. Maybe more time to read and see what you really need, later.
Anyway, the stock L20E can take that boost no problem--crank into it as any other N/A to Turbo conversion: Add that rising rate FPR, or standalone and some L28ET injectors and you should be good for your HP range stated (225?) with the right boost and some small intercooling...
Hey Frank, you get photos of the Orange Truck? Too much for Dad, huh?
-
On a non-intercooled turbo application, the discharge temperature of the turbo is easily figured, through sijmple physics.
The compression ratio will determine the temperature along with a variable like the compressor's efficienfcy. Simply put, 100 degree ambient air pushed to Xpsi will be approx 270 degrees.
Add that temperature to the compression ratio of the engine, and you will quickly see the compression in the engine being closer to 7.5 or 8:1 will also raise the air temperature some more.
And BOOM! the gas lights off if you have cheap stuff...
In reality due to camshaft overlap and how dynamic compression works on a rotating engine, the compression ratio (actual) in the engine while running is somewhat lower until peak torque where it reaches nearer the actual design ratio.
So basically, you are limited in a non-intercooled application to the compression ratio, it's resultant heat, and then the engine's effective compression ratio raising the temperature in steps to a critical point where iognition wold occur.
This is why some Diesels use rad high-boost turbos with no intercooling due to the heat produced through the turbocharging.
Throw in an intercooler, and all bets can efectively eliminate the turbocharger's heat, and all you have is intercooler out temperature being the effective ambient temperature for purposes of determining ignition temperatures in the combustion chamber.
Basically, the Turboicharger acts like a "variable compression ratio" component. With the cumulative heat, a low-boost turbo's output can be equated (as well as having detonation characteristics comparable to) a high-copmpression engine (14:1 and up!)
But it's late, I got a killer neckknot, and can't expound any longer on any more of the question. maybe tomorrow! not enough energy left right now to get into density and AFR variations.
But this heat is how the ping and ignition happens. Simple Physics.~
-
yer too picky!
"Tight valves burn"!
You learn that
"Quiet Valves Burn"
If you drive an old air cooled VW for any legnth of time...
The valve lash noise is part of the engine harmony. It's not natural for a solid lifter camshaft to be quiet.
-
450? Where did you get that low number?
Electromotive was cranking out 580HP on stone age fuelcontrol only EFI (TEC1) back in 1983...
That was state of the art, then. Now with modern EFI controlling both fuel and spark, that number is available for street cars...
-
BAE, Crown, and SK all made the adapter you speak of...
The Corwn one was the worst of the bunch, being made of mild steel tubing.
But the SK unit used a stock exhaust gasket, and sealed great.
I still have one, for what I have no idea, but it's just soo cool looking, and it doesn't take up much space....
I have seen the BAE unit, and it looks a lot like the SK unit, except the SK unit uses a T3 flange....
Cool, huh?
-
I would think that if one were successful in creating a pan, tray, sheet, etc, under the car that met all the characteristics of "ground effects", that it would require quite a bit of rigidity and a strong means of attachment. Otherwise, higher pressure above the pan, tray, sheet, would force it to separate from the unibody. A very small amount of pressure difference over the broad bottom panel's area would seem to make for easy separation.
Please see my comment about Andy's Underpan coming off at speed!
-
My understanding it that both Sims 76 and Xander used the non-turbo Dizzy for the trigger.
Matter of fact, Sims has just turboe'd his, and give seome details on using the signal straight from the reluctor in the stock ZX Dizzy.
It's on this page or fairly recently.
I used the 81 Turbo CAS for mine, and most others with turbos used the 82/83 CAS unit for triggering. I had no trigger problems with mine, it was all laptop related. I just have had ZERO time to revisit it in the past three months.
Matter of fact, I am replying to this sitting in an office building in Taipei Taiwan right now...
Looks good thusfar, though! Great Work.
-
Training Osama? Well we did train the Muj's in Afghanistan. Milt Bearden CIA Bureau Chief during that period personally regrets what we did only because it has been misused. From a guy who DID the training, imagine the ghosts he has to live with, how do you think he feels about justified steps to redress that "training error"? The point that once it's been learned, we really have no control what people use it for is very valid, and I persoanlly feel sad that Milt has such a hard time of if---but it was what was required at the time. You do what you need to do when fighting a war, and that's what we needed to do. That they took it to another extreme due to religous zealotry is another matter. What happens during wartime is usually redressed equitably at the ceassation of hostilities. (more on that later...)
Remember that the Taliban, the Muj's all those boys had their butts KICKED by the Russians, regardless of their "proud fighting heritage". Until Uncle Sam came in and supplied them, they were residing themselves to the fact that they were done with their fight and were going to live out their lives in Pakistan because the Russians were too strong.
Then, in a stroke of "get back at the bastards for VietNam" the US supplied them, trained them, and gave the Russkies a bit of their own medicine.
The problem now is funding. Without these idiots being funded they will be snuffed out and defeated. Which is a reason for the tact the USA is taking in the war. As much shooting as snooping will be required. To prevent the terrorists from being funded (like we did for the Muj in Afghanistan, and the Russkies did to the HoChiMinh boys in VN) will require what normally would be considered terribly invasive investigative methods. This is required because of the way the Muslim World treats "charities"---many of them soilicit funds, but really don't keep books the way they should. Many links to "Martyrs Funds" and the like have been found from "legitimate" muslim charities operating in the USA. Without the investigative powers, there was no way to make this connection, and the funding would still be flowing. Like Hezbulloh in Beruit, they operate child care centres, typical charities, and...welll... other things as well. But who can turn down money for a child care centre, huh? Not to say 100% of your money (or any at all) will ever go for the centre. But hey, it's a charity!
On another note, while Manzanar (yeah, from waay back in the post...) was for the Japanese, and they got offered reparations, my relatives of GERMAN and ITALIAN descent who were legal citizens for years by the time the war was declared were uprooted and sent to camps in North Dakota and the Midwest for the duration of the war. But the Japanese had a vocal lobby in congress, so they go a nice little payoff. And in many cases they didn't leave the state. Who mentioned that there is a little different treatment for different groups? We got the shaft on that one. My kid's college fund could use a boost.
But many people took it for what it was: something that occurred in war, it was done, it was over, and you try to learn from it. As far as I can see, nobody is locking up people fromthe USA, they are usually from Islamic States captured on the battlefield (Gitmo)...
It's like getting your hassle from a cop. Yeah, it's a pain, and it probably shouldn't happen, but what is the use of bellyaching after the fact?
I can think that somewhere I am on some government list for making international cellphone calls from China to the USA and saying something like "CNC Bridgeport Mill" or referring to my compatriots in the states at assorted times as "Tom Bin Laden" or "Abdullah Allsama Bengali Viniard" then saying "semtex, C4, plastique"...
Ever since I saw Bill Murray in "Wherre the Buffalo Roam" I have always had the urge to say "F... Hoover!" whenever I answer the phone in these situations.
I digress. 8)
-
Good Information.
That self-vulcanizing tape (we called it F-4 Tape in the USAF since most of the F-4 Phantoms were held together with it...) is a pain to get off once set. I like those split plastic wiring looms they use nowadays---you can still get to your wires when needed.
As for the passenger's comment about sounding like you have a BOV instaled. I run open element off the turbo for now, and did for years on my triple-blow-through Mikuini setup. They are loud. Sounds like a jet turbine at idle. And when you let off the throttle, you may be getting a turbine stall or partial surge which makes a stuttering sound through the inlet. It is especially pronounced if you have simply a filter (or a tea strainer like I used...) on the turbine inlet...
Later I ran a shortie glasspack on a remote filter out front, and it quieted it down just fine. My BOV/Compressor Bypass Valve waas routed into the inlet, so you didn't really hear it anymore when I lifted.
-
Ditto Here. I was seeing 162 degrees at idle under some circumstances. Not bad for only having moved about five miles total, huh?
I am running a 160 degree thermostat, and tweaked enrichments to not come in at the temperatures they normally would. This was one of thereasons I went with MS, was I could tweak and run the lower thermostat without the fuel enrichment being on all the time.
I have had very good luck with 160 thermos in the desert with carbbed cars, and figured "why not". I change to a 170 or 180 during winter, though. So I am somewhat diseased...
You guys might consider the 160 thermo yourself to help performance if you are seeing the temps track similarly.
Good Datalog, information good for everyone, not just MS users!
-
Two things I can say:
1)OY! Looks like it's time to upgrade my G-Tech to the new generation!
2)Egads, forget the graphs, that R33 subframe swap is beaut!
Thanks for that link, M8!
-
backwards, rich...
when signal from O2 sensor goes out of spec for more than 3 seeconds, ECU goes "full rich" and stays there until signal is rectified.
You have false air or vacuum leaks in your system. Get out the spray bottle and find them.
-
"E" and "ET" are two different things altogether.
I have never heard of an L24ET.
L24E, yes, quite a few. THAT was available in the US market in the Maxima, true, but never in stock turboed form!
The only L-Turbo engines I have ever been aware of were available in L28 and L20 form. The power of the L24 when turboed would not make any marketing sense. The L20ET was marketed as the same HP as an N/A L28, allowing for the same performance without the Tax Penalty of being over 2-Litres.
The L28 would be king in the stock power wars at the time.
I would not see any reason for a Turbo L24, as from most taxation perspectives, the L28 would not draw any higher a taxation than a turbo L24.
I doubt the existence, but if someone shows some documentation, it would be interesting to see!
-
take a look in the megasquirt files site at yahoo.
perry harrington devised a circuit that will isolate all the ignition noise on the input section for the board altogehter. he will make the circuit and install it on your board for $50, but the parts are far cheaper than that, and installation is fairly easy.
remember I had a problem that was traced to my LAPTOP and the way it handled the com. Who knows why, but it did.
I haven't tuned yet, due to similar jumping, but as long as I just download a program into it, and don't hook up my laptop, it runs fine. The minute I hook it up, it starts doing crazy things. I'm sure you read my travails in the turbo forum under the MS sticky.
But the resistor may solve the interference.
One thing I did was install a stereo power filter on the input power line, taken directly from the battery positive connection, as well as on the switched power input line (yeah, I wass reachin'...) and while it did not solve MY problem, it DID make the power traces on the O-Scope MUCH cleaner. I used the big black box rated at like 20A from Radio Shack...
Good Luck!
-
Jon,
what I did was update you on his current thinking which isn't necessarily on the website.
he "thought" he needed the external gate.
SO after a $1200+ custom manifold, the cost of the gate, sevearl flanges, etc etc etc he's got it all together, and wonders if all the money was needed to be spent at all.
I have no vested interest either way, I just wonder how much money is spent on all these projects that need thiss or that, when in reality, properly engineered pieces are replaced needlessly.
I would also not say in any way I characterized JeffP's work as "ghetto" anything. Matter of fact, if anything it's overbuilt for the application, to ensure long term reliability.
But taking his lead, and applying his already proven path, you can eliminate about $10,000 in development costs he went through. Which is the reason he has the website up there: so anybody can use his model, and simply bolt together a particular HP level using his experience as a guide.
I also note you are now at 400 to 500HP level, instead of the 350 you mentioned that evening...
Building to 300-350 is different than 450-500 in both materials, and costs involved.
STI/WRX power steering rack Hummmm
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
Pressure is usually adjusted by spring bias and you can adjust it fairly easily if you think it's too touchy or sluggish...
Most Japanese Systems are all made by the same company anyway. Teh only time you would run into strange compatibility problems is seapping American and European, or Japanese and American, etc etc etc...
Except for Jaguar---the old KJ6 and XJS had Saginaw Steering Gear power steering, my father in law was a foreman on that line. They distinguished the steering boxes by the size of the quill shaft connecting the wheel to the steering setion of the box. Corvettes had a very stiff and torsinally rigid shaft, so they had a touchy steering response. Jags got a soft shaft, which softened the steering response.
But from what he said, everything they produced all worked on the same pressure, Response was dictated by internal parts that moved valves and etc.