Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Same with me, I was running key on for a while during my "tribulations".
One thing I would NOT recommend is going with an Autozone or Generic module. My first one was only $13, but I had weak spark, really unsatisfactory. Spent the 24$ for the Pertronix Flame Thrower off-road HEI and is started shooting 4" blue-white sparks. I think many of the generic modules are o.k. for a low-revving GM, but for this application, spend the $$$ and get a good HEI unit. After going to the Pertronix, I have had absolutely no spark related problems.
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I used a factory dropping resistor from an 81 NA (I believe) which has a big green wire to feed power to the resistor, and six red wires out to the injectors with plenty of legnth stripped out of the OEM harness to reach from almost anywhere you put the relay box under the hood. I grouped the red wires in 123 and 456 batches and attached them to Inj1 and Inj 2. The green wire went to Inj Power, of course. Worked fine for me. I used the stock ballast particularly because it had a single feed line for power, instead of two like some of the Nissan units have---and I knew the feed wire would handle the stock injectors with no problem!
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Oh, Extra Code. Beyond me at this point! Still running MS-n-S on mine.
Remember the trigger setting will limit your total advance. Mine was firing at only about 30 degrees total when the CAS bracket was cranked all the way up. It will severely limit your advance until you get a proper total advance in there.
But you gotta get fire first. That spark says a lot when you shut it down. Means the output circuit is working IMO. I would make SURE all your connections were correct, and if using the relay board that the wires are all securely connected in them also. I lost spark one day, bue to breakage on the stock Nissan wire at the CAS connection for power at the relay box!
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Woah!
That 5/8" shunt would definately cause some overheating out here in the desert!
I used a stock bypass line around the front of the block for the AAR line.
I will e-mail you some photos if I can dig them up, Moby.
BAH! Moby e-mail me again, and I can shoot you a photo of how I set up my bypass for the AAR water line. Pretty easy, and there are some nice moulded hoses available from AZ that make it all look very sanitary.
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check withthe Ford do Brazil parts bin. They have 100% dedicated injectors.
Otherwise, M85 compatible fuel injectors might be compatible. Since you are using methanol, you will be stuck with using the SS parts. Ethanol is less ocrrosive than Methanol. Don't forget the pump is required to be compatible. (Once again, Ford seems to have a lot of this stuff in the parts inventory, but you will have to get chummy with a SoCal dealer who is up on it, since that seems to be where a majority of those vehicles are driving around...)
Many guys run oil mix in the Methanol to lubricate the fuel system components.
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You are using the 81CAS for triggering the MS-n-S?
How did you do your "total advance" setup initially? Did you crank the 81 CAS to the top of the bracket, or move the trigger wheel one position?
Mine sparks on initial startup, and if the engine stalls, it will spark again on ign off. It can cause a nice backfire if you have an open exhaust valve and mix in the cylinder... WOOF!
Are you using MS-n-S, or MS-n-S Extra (since I see you mention Extra in your first post)?
Since you get a spark on startup, the HEI is probably grounded correctly to function....
This may sound INsane, but while I was troubleshooting mine, I plugged in an 82/83 CAS assembly and spun it with my fingers to test the sparking circuit. Don't laugh, it worked!
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SK originally used simply rebadged Mikuinis.
OER ended up taking the Sangyo Kiki brand and consolidating it.
I guess if there are "Design problems" with the original PHH Mikuinis, then OER addressed them (???) But that sounds morte like Marketing szpeak.
There was some lawsuits about patent infringement between some of the companies involved since some racing carburettors used WEBER jets interchangably, along with most other internal parts....
That is more to the point of why everybody got shook up...
OER's were preferred for blowthrough since they knocked off the Dellorto Design on the Emulsion Tubes for on-boost enrichment and were cheaper than Dells at the time.
Any of them are good carbs, it's getting parts when you need them that makes it interesting.
I have never noticed any "design problems" with the Mikuini PHH, and they have been running strong on my car for almost 20 (gads!) years now!
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Tim is right about EGO enable signals, make sure the ECU is set to NOT correct the fuel mix until the engine is
1) Warmed to at least 160 degrees
2) AT An rpm above, say, 1500 RPMS with a heated sensor, and 2500RPMS with an unheated sensor (OFF-IDLE !) You do NOT want EGO correction enabled at idle, only light cruise.
3) Get at least a heated three-wire O2 Sensor. I used the one from an 87 ZXT in mine, so I can actually get a proper switching signal as low as 1500rpm---meaning I can get EGO loop while lugging at low speeds like 50mph with my 3.36 rearend! With the stock Z and it's one-wire, remember that the stock ECU only had EGO correction in the range of about 2000-3500 before going open loop (light cruise at speed) as this was the minimum speed that would heat the sensor.
The 87 ZXT sensor (or any three wire) WILL heat itself just fine at 1500 and give you much further EGO capabilities. Mine is in the EGO loop from 1500 to 4000, below some TPS voltage I forget. Basically, if you are "on" it, then it's out of service and not correcting, and if you lift the throttle it goes in to closed-loop. I set it up like this in preparation of getting WBO2 support with a switchable signal and setting theswitching point to 16.5:1 AFR for maximum fuel economy at cruise conditions. The heater wires for the O2 sensor are easily driven off the Fuel Pump or EFI relay from the MS box. I use mine on the Fuel Pump Circuit, in parallell with the Aux Fast Idle Air Controller so I can do "key on" troubleshooting without warming up the regulator and killing the proper fast-idle response when I finally do kick it over and start it. I rewired the Stock system in my 78 similarly, since I like that function block a lot...
4) like Tim mentions about the further down the pipe you are the longer delay you have in the tuning loop is correct. I tell people "you should be able to see the sensor from under the hood". My N/A setup is in the collector of the header, and the Turbo cars are right at turbine outlet...within 6" at least. My 75 Fairlady is down the headpipe quite abit, near the transmission halfway point, but on that one it's being concealed from the prying eyes of Emissions Technicians (who think my stock ECU and Wiring Harness are actually housing stock components! muahahha, State of California SMFD!)
Watch your injector lights. Like I recently posted, I had a similar symptom where it started running terrible after startup. Idled fine but then went to hell. It was alternator noise. If you don't have a filter on incoming power, just consider it migth be a possibility.
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timing is relative. If you are going by initial timing as set on the stock system, that is your total timing. ACTUAL timing can only be determined by putting a timing light on it and running it on a dyno. While you may have 24* at idle, the timing is determined by the computer.
I don't have my maps in front of me, but the big advantage to standalone like the MS is that you can actually get 40 degrees because the initial is set beyond that, and then you delay it.
Anybody actually taken numbers while on a dyno to see where the factory timing bins are really at under boost? Sounds like another "dyno project"!
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yeah, that "tune everything on one screen" is a big plus. I get sick of switching between tables and programs. That is a major improvement over the original setup.
But I am glad to be driving it to theend of hte street and back without coughing and bucking. Yippiee! Wish I had more time to tune...
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As was said earlier, you can build the megaview, and have a four button controller to scroll through and adjust everything in the MS.
MS does support WBO2 directly with anothe board you incorporate, and some of the next generation will not need this board.
You only need a laptop or desktop to do initial configuration---then you can change everything from there with the megaview.
What is the most efficient is DATALOGGING withthe laptop. it lets you go out, and concentrate on holding a load point (say steady speed via and brakes for an rpm, while gradually increasing throttle position) this allows you to go back and see your O2 reactions, and make adjustments accordingly afterwards instead of while driving.
In reality, it only takes about three hours to get a very good map into a MS. With some of the tuning utilities and self-tweaking programs you can get REALLY CLOSE TO PERFECTION while simply driving around and datalogging!
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You should be able to print any of the pdf document files from Adobe Acrobat. I have Version 6.0 (free download) and I print stuff from .pdf's on websites all thetime. I recall that I couldn't always do this, or couldn't save them either.
I also added a program called paperport which lets me save them to another .pdf file on my computer 9via the print command) and hten manipulate them from there.
I know this is not a direct answer to your problem, but if printingthe diagrams would help, then it's helpful information, isn't it!
I know holding the paper in my hand makes it easier for me to follow wires and routing than watching it on a screen.On the VW's I equipped with the Vertex, the impulse coupling would sometimes have slop in it making initial timing setting a bear. On our engines I would always VERIFY TDC and never trust anything on the pulley---that could cause a problem too.
Due to the lag at hand cranks speed, the impulse coupling sometimes would lead people to have the ignition wires installed on the cap out of phase---usually one position off.
When it comes to these kinds of problems, I usually walk away for a day, then return with the book and start at step one and walk through it like I never did it before---never assuming anything is correct. Never thinking I did ANYTHING correct in the initial setup no matter how many times I checked it prior.
Not saying anything against you, but in my experience, I never cease to amaze myself how many stupid things I have done or glossed over when in a rush or overconfidence! I am a total idiot sometimes (in retrospect, of course!LOL)
Good Luck. I know how that goes. I have been on the Megasquirt for almost a year now and finally I drove the car to the end of the block and back. Igniton interface can be trying at times.
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Yes, the rethreading depends on your application.
If you convert to cable throttle from a 200SX like I did in mine, the throttle quadrant poking straight up from the bolted on throttle works just fine! Just making the throttle shaft prependicular to the ground plane instead of parallell.
Then again, if you don't need the SWITCH in the TPS, and otherwise require a Potentiometer, then the 60MM T/B from an SR20 in a 90 or 91 Stanza will work fine just by removing the outer quadrant, and changing over to the earlier bellcrank---it already has a properly threaded and cut down shaft. SAme thing goes for the Stanza unit on turning it 90 degrees, you can hook up a throttle cable that way using stock quadrants, and not use the spacer.
But making one is not difficult if you have a drill press and a jig saw!
Good Luck!
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If you want aluminum pulleys to last for OEM durability, have them hard anodized. The surface finish will promote belt adhesion and power transfer, and if you keep your belts tensioned properly, they will last for a very long time.
Most of the pulleys sold through outlets are just polished. A hard anodizing really adds to the durability of the stock. Then again, if they are cut from specific pillets, they are pretty hard to begin with!
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It probably is accurate, but watching a test pot is a lot different than the actual flowing temperatures you might encounter during running the vehcile.
My Megasquirt shows my engine running at 160 at idle, and it WILL NOT get any hotter unless I am driving the vehicle under a load! Now I have a 160F thermostat, but as soon as some load goes on it, the thing goes right to 170 where the 160 thermostat is fully open. But only if it's good and hot outside. During cold weather, the thing will fight to get to 160---which is why I usually flush and rethermostat in the winter... As long as your oil temperature is above 180 (and should be as it normally runs a delta above water temperature of at least 20 to 25 degrees) you should be fine for proper lubrican action.
I wouldn't sweat it, people will say it should run "Hotter" but if you change your oil regularly "sludge" should not be a problem as you get near enough to 180 watertemp (meaning 200, 215 oil temp). Oil temperature is the real thing to worry about.
I made sure all my warmup bins were satisfied by 155 degrees, so they are definately no in play while I'm driving. That would be more of a concern to me than the actual runnigntemperature of the engine. My oil temperature rarely if ever gets below 180 even at idle, so that is proper for lubricant action. And prevention of water buildup and contaminant cookoff at that temperature is acceptable. Ideally during a highway run you would probably get closer to 225, to 240 degrees, and boil out all the water, and flash off the gas. They want at least 180 oil temp to flash gasoline and alcohols out of the oil. Water, well it will slow boil at that temp, and make a nice brown pudding...
Now if you can check your oil temps---THAT would make an interesting discussion!
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Especiall since Moby's STicky details the 81 SPECIFICALLY after this morning!
I just updated HIM on the stuff I was doing on MY 81 conversion.
If you have questions, read his sticky, then e-mail me. I should be able to explain the differences between the 82/83 and the 81 setup.
I used an 81 since nobody had done it before, and because we needed to know. Simple.
Electrically, they are identical, mechanically there is a few things you need to know, and Moby's sticky shjould explain them clearly enough.
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Ahhhh, and the dreaded "feature creep" is well on the march!
LOL
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I often have pondered what all the whining about "snow" and "cold weather and salt" was on the many forums...
I would absolutely LOVE the opportunity to take the car off the road and rip into it for 6 months straight.
You guys don't know what kind of hell we live in in SoCal. Always driving the cars, events this weekend, that weekend, ride to the beach, run to the mountians. Drive drive drive drive... it's incessant, and HELL I tell you!
I would LOVE to tear into it and not HAVE to drive it every weekend...
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Yes, John will fill you in on the details on the "Vision Plus" They are SAE pattern if I recall correctly, while the others are E-Code. i prefer E-Code, legal or not. Light and being able to see is what is important to me, If the cops want to ticket me for a $10 fixit ticket, I'll do what I have done for years: Scrawl in an illegible signature, put a badge number in the box and "CPD" in the "ORG" box, and send it in with the $10. Screw them! I'm not getting killed because of some arcane rule on diffuse light projecting up to read unilluminated street signs. I want to see what's on the ROAD, not what's in the TREETOPS!
Do I mask my contempt at the laws well enough? John should be able to link you to a site on lighting that is trying to get the new standards for hte US to be the same as the E-Code. This would be good. I have run E-Codes on my vehicles sinc 1979...
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Stuck with Hella as a brand name? Knock off lights with the bulbs you mention are available as a pair for a price close to what the Mass Merchandaisers are selling a reflector assembly for are availabe from http://www.h4lights.com
Talk with John. he also deals as a regional Distributor for Hella, and may be a ble to answer your question. He is in SoCal.
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What are you guys using on the power line or alternator to filter noise into your MS unit?
I have just gottne the MS-n-S running like it did when I first fired it up in MAY 2003! Trouble is when I reconnect the alternator, it starts cutting off the injector pulses in a rythmic cycle.
With the alternator disconnected, the thing runs fine. Put the "F" termninal back into the alt, and it will run fine for about 2 minutes, then start the surging again. i don't know if it's a bad diode, or that I've removed the line filter I formerly had on the system. New VR and Alt, but who knows if they are good or not. Will test some more, but as long as voltage stays below 14.00 V it seems to run fine.
BAH! At least I can tune for a while, charge it up and continue... This alternator thing may have been the "killer" of box number 1... now that I think on it some more...hmmmmm
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The JCR kit is available once again. Sandy Cook came to the Group Z meeting last year when they were ready to re-roll it out. It is now separate components: intake and supercharger with drive, and Fuel Control. The kit for the S/C was the price the complete unit sold for before: $3400.
Sandy realized with so many EFI systems out there, the "hard parts" were in more demand, with the customer using what system THEY were familiar with.
I remember Seeing Ed and Lavern at the Atlanta Convetion, then again in Denver, and once again in Thousand Islands! That car keeps going and going and going---and getting more powerful and impressive to boot! I remember his comment at Denver "We ran the 12psi pulley for this trip, we DO have to drive 3300 miles back home!" On the back straight at the Denver Stapelton Airport, the Z32TT's were hitting their rev-limiter hard at 155, and then along came Lavern whizzing by---you could hear that S/C whining away from the spectator area while he passed them on that straight!
Impressive to say the least!
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You should have no problems. I have run a turbo on the N42 to 21# myslef, and many of the Supercharger guys from way back ran them fine simply because P90 and P79 heads were not available.
As long as your compression ratio is manageable, it is nothing different than any other head. At worst you have to install a 1mm head gasket to drop your compression a point...
Ignition and fuel control is far more important than compression at the start, unless you are going to stratospheric boost pressures unintercoolled.
Does anybody have alink to L Burkholder's Supercharged L28 from the Ontario, Canada ZCC? That car has been running for a long time, 12 to 17# on an N42 if I recall correctly...
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Question is what do you want to "save"?
If you have bare MS, and are converting, that's one thing, if you are even considering MS-N-S, just install it from the start, and leave the spark tables like Moby's post until you get around to it! Concentrate on fuel alone.
I have moved files and configurations from box to box using several laptops and a thumb (or pen) drive!
That is how I moved all my MS related stuff from my original Vaio Laptop with the Com Port Problem to the Dell I am using now (with a USB to Serial Converter!)
It's just files like Xander said. Once they are written, you can move them around.
THE IMPORTANT THING IS THIS: MS-N-S requires BOTH Megatune and MSS to tune the respective regions, Megatune for Fuel, MSS for the sprak table, so they are separate and distinct files. I am NOT SURE what the new MS-N-S "Extra" is configured like, and from reading the information, it allows tuning of both tables from the SAME "NEW" megatune program... This may make a combined programming file, and may make it difficult to separate them to go "backward".
Anyway, I entered my values into thetables manually from a Photograph of the screen shot I saved off Moby's sticker. So at worst, you will simply need to load them manually, wich only takes 2 minutes! Just dome't be like me: givethe files a DISTINCT file name when you save them so you know which ones were working and which ones didn't... DOH!
I know holding the paper in my hand makes it easier for me to follow wires and routing than watching it on a screen.
First drive in l28et swap tonight/ Issues
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
If you're not sure on the fuel pressure, and you actually remember a reading of 20psi, let me make some guesses:
1) you are using the stock 240Z fuel return line.
2) you measured fuel pressure in the return line.
I will almost BET that is your problem if you are running rich! Aside from a disconnected water temperature sensor, people running the small 240 return line on their EFI car is teh #1 reason for rich running.
Swap your return line to the Evap line on the left fender well of the car, and you should drop your fuel pressure in the return line to zero, and this wil let you run the proper fuel pressure on the front end.
Just a wild guess, but educated guess....LOL