Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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is it heat related?
Shuts down when hot?
if so a can of Radio Shack Component Cooler will tell you straightaway if that is the culprit. If it's hot and doesn't start, spray the freez-it onto the suspect component, and see if it starts then...
I got myself home from a road test with six cans of freez-it one day. Advice, when you go for a troubleshooting test drive, never say "Man, it's a nice day, it's running good today, heck, lets go for a little ride!" BAD IDEA!
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wouldn't MS-N-EDIS work for the conversion (if you grabbed the 6 cylinder coilpack?)
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I just helped Bryan out in Phoenix with his MS getting started, I was amazed how much the fuel pressure fluctuated during "simultaneous" injector operation.
2 Squirts Alternating resulted in ROCK STEADY fuel pressure, and better throttle response (three 46mm 2-Bbl throttle bodies on a home made six runner intake manifold.)
Speaking of manifold, did the Exhaust Manifold show up Xander. Man I shipped that a loooong time ago!
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Mike K, I couldn't have said it better myself! (or did I?....muahahaha!)
I was a stupid kid when I built it the first time, and to be honest was worried about the sounds the car's chassis made.
Until I went for a ride in Eric Messley's car (before John C put those un-naturally small seats and belts in it!) and realized "Oh, so this is what the car is SUPPOSED to sound like!" I realized then that I just might be driving a bit harder than the average driver on the street. Just a bit... I swear, I can induce brake fade in a 30 minute lapping session around my block (before the sherrif arrives) now. Having lots of power is fun, no doubt about it, but you have to make the comittment to learn how to harness it properly, or it's a terrible waste. Both of your resources, and your enjoyment.
And I STILL SUCK at driving...
LOL
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The ECCS Plug Configuration is Standardized across the Nissan Line with very few exceptions, as is the EFI (Bosch N/A Standard) plug.
One has a provision for 29 wires, the other (ECCS) for considerably more....
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Don't even need to do that!
The temp sensor for the gauge on the turbo is the EXACT SAME UNIT as on the 240 and the 260Z! The oil pressure gauge might require a sensor, but if you get the right terminal on the two-pronged sender unit for the turbo, it will read the same. You just need to alter the stock wiring harness with a standard 0.250" Female Spade Connetor to fit on the terminal on the turbo sender. One is a switch to ground, the other is the sender on the turbo...
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The bunk about putting them in the flywheel is spoken without a thought on the realities of the matter. Chrysler uses flywheel mounted timing items and has for years without any worries.
It's a good idea, and keeps the sensors protected inside the bellhousing.
I thought we discussed this over beers in Paris.... Maybe they were stronger for you Euro Guys and it affected me less... LOL!
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To get rid of heating issues with the Mikuinis, use the cooling bodies Mikuini installed on oh-so-many OEM applications. On Wayne Caulder's 3.2, this totally stopped his percolation problems in SoCal during stop-n-go driving.
They are a diecast body that fits between the accel pump and the bottom of the Mikuini Body, and have two fittings on them to allow the return fuel from the regulator to pass beneath the carbs in a cooling flow to take away any excess heat. They work great, I'm amazed many more people don't know about them. A longer accel pump rod was included in the cooling body kit when you ordered them. If you need photos e-mail me and I can send you some if I can scrounge up the sets I have...
Also, that stumble off idle may be due ot idle jetting. You mentioned "accel jets" but not idles. Are the idle jets 55.5 or larger? If not, chances are you are going momentarily lean on transition, and a larger idle jet will stop that during light throttle applications.
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Cool, so by saying 60degrees, for the first magnet, and the rest at 120, you mean in reference to the first one, correct?
This is basically the way my 81 ZXT CAS is set up now. I uplled the trigger wheel off, redrilled the hole and moved the wheel one bolt hole advanced, giving me all triggers 72 degrees BTDC. An odd number unlike a nice 60 degrees, but good enough.
Mine works, too!
I thought you would have done it over by the starter, also, and have the magnets on the O.D. but I guess this way you don't have to worry about Centrifugal forces. I doubt they would come loose with the epoxy anyway.
Good to see another alternate trigger for N/A guys, too!
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Yes, I didn't mean to suggest Nissan went away from a bad design. it's just the design was not "customer proof" in the real world! LOL
Seems there are people who believe "changing the oil" consists of putting in another quart of "Quaker Maid SA Grade Premium Re-Refined Oil" from the 7-11 when the stick shows it's a quart low.
I had an L26 we pulled out of a Cedric once. When it started there was a persistend "Squeak squeak squeak" that we had never heard. Pulled the valve cover to find the #1 cam lobe almost TOTALLY flat. When we restarted it, oil was flowing out of the intake and exhaust squirters on cyls 2,3,4,&5, but only one of the squirters suplying the lobes to #1 & #6. Black Sludge all over inside, terribly messy. But for $7US for the whole engine (because, we argued with the vendor at the time "it's making a bad noise!), what can I say? We bought another head off an LPG powered car for $5 swapped it on, flushed everything out with PD680 in the shop's heated, air agitated solvent tank (ahhh working for the government!) and ran it. As far as I know, it's still powering the same Fairlady Z out in Chandler AZ to this day!
I digress...
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L6 Camshaft Specs (#273) was a 0.630" Lift, 306 degree duration ground on a 102 degree lobe cnter.
L4 Camshaft Specs (#196) was 0.530" Lift, 306 degree duration on 102 centers...
There was an L9 also. Forget the specs... That's disgusting, huh? Bad me...
Best I could come up with...
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Nissan's Prep Manual had the cam oiling orifice in the block enlarged to 2mm for more oil flow to the top end. I have always used Turbo Pumps, and have never paid much attention to the cam oiling. If it has a spraybar, it gets a new one, or at minimum gets cleaned. If it's internal, it stays that way. I have assembled a few engines with both, and have not noted an oil starvation problems.
The reason Nissan went AWAY from the spraybar was because of Sludge Formation problems that ended up plugging the outer spray holes. I have seen this on several occasions. But having an internally oiled camand the bar should not be a problem given adequate flow and proper bearing clearances in the rest of the engine.
I mean, how many people have retrofitted piston oil sprayers to the engine? If I was doing THAT, I might go only with the internally oiled cam, and plug the oil spraybar. The spraybar can fail and waste your cam, I would not depend on it exclusively for lubrication of the top end.
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AHA!
Mine is doing similar things. Alllllmost dies after first start, sometimes stalls, then is fine on the second start.
Now I know why.
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which is why the helicoil oversize would work.Basically they are sized for you to sink a tap down the already stripped hole directly, and thread in your coil, which restores the original thread on the interior area.
Either way, the dowell would probably have to come out for the installation.
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They do make oversized helicoils for such situations...
I wouldn't trust epoxies in the head for long-term stregnth. I like metal-to-metal interlocking.
If nothing else a Keen-Sert would have solved the problem, the next step if the "Helicoil Helicoil" gets pulled out somehow. You pull a keen-sert out, you need to have your head examined! The keen sert uses something like a 1/2-13 outer male thread for a 5/16-24 effective female thread!
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All said above. Original turbo map is good to 22psi. Many have gone far higher than that using an alternate MAP sensor. Yacoucci ran something like 35psi in the Busa Motor, at 10,500rpm.
Maps are good, and I store every one until I determine if I gained or lost when I g-tech it later. I have Moby's baseline stored with two tweaks particular to my install, and whenever any problems start, I go tothe "last known good run". When I will do the other car, I will start with the tweaked Moby Baseline, and start from there.
There REALLY is no reason for a "race and street" map. WOT is WOT, and unless you are using a WBO2 cruise will be the same as adjusted by the O2.
With a WBO2, and a switchable output, the only thing I would do with the Race/Street would be to use a race program with midrange closer to 13.5:1 AFR, instead of 16:1. Which you won't be able to tune for anyway without a WBO2...
You should be able to easily get a conservative street driving program in about two hours of tuning in the car with someone making adjustements. If you use the utilities for automatic VE tweaking, and datalog you may get closer faster, but in two hours you should have something driving that runs better than the stock EFI in most situations, and have seriously better throttle response.
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See WHY it's not moving.
i found it hard to make it move when the actuator was attached.
I would remove the actuator rod, and see if the flapper moves on it's own. If it does, then the actuator or a signal line to it is your problem.
If the little flapper arm doesn't move, then there is something with it, and you can take it apart further if you want to see why. Try soaking it in REAL penetrating oil, and see if it frees up, Once you can move it yourself, then try it again.
Not much in that part of the system for failure.
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preassembled kits, with preloaded software, and preassembled wiring harnesses!
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You can build your own out of extruded 2X4" box Aluminum, and bolt straight through it to hold the box to the front of the carbs, nothing to it.
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Eureka!
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O.K> THIRD TIME TRYING TO POST THIS!
Short and sweet before something happens again.
HEI Aftermarket like Pertronix Flamethrower 100mm spark, blue white, cranking and idle speed. No over 4500 dwell and spark dropoff like stock HEI modules.
Nissan Module, hard to find on the road, expensive, spark production less than the $40 aftermarket HEI's available!
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Guys, realize that the LD engine used later has DRY liners. This means you aren't cutting into the water jackets. I would bet an LD could be bored SIGNIFICANTLY and run on the block iron just fine.
As for the "Diesel Liners" used in the HKS 3.5 and 3.3 conversions, I never said I clarified from the Japanese guy that they were from a Nissan.
In the day, it wasn't uncommon to cut to the water jacket, and push in a diesel liner to an L20A to make the bore similar to an L24, and with the L24 crank you had a nice little 300HP sleeper that has "L20A" for Japanese Inspection and anyone who might like to match race you...
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Not a Dream Destroyer, you COULD do a complete RB26 swap for the cost of a BLOWN UP S20!
People that got 'em, don't part with 'em. And they usually have a spare, just in case.
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Water Injection has been around for years.
"In the beginning, God Created Spearco, and they invented the single pressure switch water injection controller, and it was good.
On down the line, Spearco came out with a dual switched water injection controller, ad it was good...."
Now there is so much technology available to really truly CONTROL the water going in, it's almost like another system component on the EFI!
I started with a single switch Spearco unit on my 69 Corvair Corsa (Turbo) running 17# of boost in 1979. In the late 80's when Turbine technology advanced, 22psi was pumping out, so I got the dual switched unit. I don't know how many tens of thousands of miles I drove on the car, with nary a problem. No intercooler, and a retapered needle residing in a 2" SU providing fueling. If water injection can keep a 60's vintage AIR COOLED engine from melting down, it should work even better with today's technology on an engine with 10+ more years of engineering development, and having water cooling!
Sometimes you ahve to tweak stuff to get more power, all other things being held equal (like pump gas octane)...
gm sensors for the megasquirt
in MegaSquirt
Posted
if you are going cheap, use the nissan sensors and use ET4D utility (Easytherm) to reprogram the curves in the megasquirt.
If you are turbo, consider the GM open element air sensor, most any GM vehicle in the junkyard will have one in the manifold. It responds faster than the Coolant sensor, though I haven't had any problems as of yet...