Tony D

Yes, this sounds like no ECU signal to the ignition transistor. If you have a fuel pump and pressure, you are very close. You need ignition input to the ECU from the CAS unit, with that, it will shoot a signal to the coil ignitor (transistor) that gates the coil to ground. Once you get an ignition pulse, the ECU will start pulsing the injectors, and you will run. You are so very close. So very, very close. Make this work before you try standalone. The stock system is actually pretty easy to get into a car compared to the work involved in setting up the standalone which may or may not use your sensors you already have... Megasquirt is always an option, it will work with the L28 CAS unit.

OOPS! I just "bumped" it to bring it back to the top so he could find it. "Simultaneous Discoveries" LOL

not to digress too far from the point, but i was involved in the "Alternative Fuels" business for quite a while both directly and indirectly. I also lament the nice unrefined sugar taste in Coke found overseas...

Woah guys, don't throw M85 in with E85! M85 is a METHANOL based additive fuel, and REQUIRES the special fuel system requirements. E85 on the other hand has been around for YEARS (You may know it as "Gasahol") though typically, "Gasahol" only has 10% Ethanol, and no more. Don't buy the hype, Ethanol is not a "sustainable fuel" like the corn lobby says it is. Look to Brazil for their "Alcool" program. Fact of the matter is that most ethanol used is cracked from petroleum as it's more efficient to do that than make it from Biomass (corn, sugar beets, cane sugar, etc etc etc) For a project I ran a VW Bus on 100% ethanol that I distilled myself (have the old BATF Forms somewhere in storage). Ran killer compression, mongo spark timing, and got about HALF the gas mileage as petroleum based fuels. The more alcohol you add, the WROSE fuel mileage you return. There was a program at one time for "home production" of biomass fuels that allowed you to mix your own gasahol---the minimum mix was 10%---and that allowed you to file with the feds to get back all the federal taxes on thefuel you mixed. This is why Gasahol is so common in the midwest: Ethanol/Corn lobby has tax incentives, consumers don't realize they are getting worse fuel economy at a 10% mix, and they get (did I say this already) tax incentives and subsidies... When you go over 10%, I suppose the mew "marketing MBA program" is to make it sound "new". You want Octane, convert your car to run on CNG. 114 to 120 octane. You can fuel from a pump you can have installed at your house on your residential gas line. Gallon Equivalent pricing from residential gas lines at homes before tax incentives and credits ammounts to around .35 cents per gallon. If you can convince your boss at the Glass Factory to install the booster on the mainline there at a commercial consumer of Natural Gas, the cost drops to around 5 cents a gallon. CNG and Propane are by far the most efficient conversions worldwide. Ethanol is an artificially propped-up pipe dream. Sorry ADM, no more money for you when I am crowned King of Energy Policy! LOL

I'd agree with Mike, I wouldn't waste time tuning on a Dynojet if a Mustang was available (like in Oceanside...muahahaha) The main advantage is they can hold a load point EXACTLY and you can screw with fuel and timing while holding there and get realtime readouts of changes good or bad when movingthings around. It allows you to peak optimize each load point in your fuel/load/spark map which will give better interpolation and FAR better drivability quicker. Where it really is nice is the partial throttle tuning, where your choices are to either finda flat road, or gradual hill, and ride the brakes and annoying traffic to hold partial load points to tune them. I don't know about you, but my wife does not respond well to being awakened at 0200 to go make fifteen or so passes up the VanBuren hill while I yell at her to hold the brakes at a load point. This makes us both stressed and upset. On the other hand, she only complains a bit when she gets the CC bill for the dyno time...until I remind her of the "alternative solution" LOL

The answer WAS in the Moby the Van Sticky at the Turbocharged and Supercharged forum at this site. The connection of the Megasquirt is EXACTLY the same for both Early and Late CAS units. This was the reason I used the 81CAS on my buildup, and posted to the sticky so everyone would know. My problems with the MS centered around the "first user" syndrome not knowing if it was the same or not, and because the laptop I was using had a screwed com port. When 'scoped, the outputs from the 83 and 81 CAS units were identical at the board. I hooked mine up exactly as Moby suggested in his sticky, and it works fine. There is nothing special you need for the 81CAS. The answers WERE there. Didn't realize the T&S stickies had dissappeared again.

yes, that is the line from Nissan. When dealing with the Turbo Automatics in US spec Cars they added volume and flow to compensate for the oil cooler system present on the Automatics. Interestingly enough, the Turbo/Auto pumps are the most inexpensive of the lot, too!

With good valve seals, not venting to the manifold is not an issue. But with a vehicle with 180K+ miles on it, the seals DO start seiving a LOT more oil when it's not used! Turbo or N/A... In my personal experience, when I updated to a 60mm throttle valve on my N/A L28 EFI setup, the oil consumption went THROUGH THE ROOF! from less than a 1/2 quart in between oil changes to that much in 1000 miles (so a 3X increase). All due, in my opinion to the removal of the BCDD under the stock Throttle Valve... The N/A engines have something to limit vacuum spikes, too! The BCDD! And when they go bad, they have a high idle that won't go away. I don't sense any "overspeed" when I lift the throttle, nor when I reapply. I will have to see that when I observe more closely in the future. Anyway, both N/A and Turbo engines had devices to limit total manifold vacuum excursions. This is why so many people think they need to "rebuild" their engines at 180K---they slap on a big TB, run the heck out of it, and start realizing they have a plume on decel, start using more oil, etc etc etc. Compression is still fine, but those repeated spikes to 30"Hg don't do any favors to older valve seals! I was so disturbed by the increase in the oil consumption after the TB swap, I even asked others if they had noticed it... Being it was the ONLY variable changed on that car at the time, there is little else it could have been. When I drive it hard, it sucks oil, and on the freeway at cruise, there is nary a problem.

"Spring"... You can add an M6 Flat Washer under the stock Turbo spring (actually several) and get the same effect as the Comp Springset. I believe they sourced the springset for the "comp" pump from the Diesel L engine... But M6 Flat Washers have a nice effect on the oil pressure. You can actually tailor the pressure where you want starting low, and working up to it one Washer at a time... You only really need 10 psi per 1000 rpm... But sometimes conditions warrant more.

depending on where you look, those Ford Injectors Bernard speaks of are supposed to be 550cc. The 3.8's had the smaller units. The 5.0's supported 215HP, I don';t know if you can do that on two 440cc injectors, butthe output from the 3.8 would easily be covered from a 440cc pair... I have the same inejctors in some throttlebody setups I am prototyping. They are easily fit to the stock mainfold, but I used a drill press, and bored out the stock mainfold pintile hole so I didn't have to modify the injectors at all. The stock ones still fit fine in the modified manifold. I believe I used an "O" drill to make them fit. I have the measurements somewhere...

The stock Dump Valve is discussed in factory documents as a "Vacuum Control Valve" and the diuscussion to this point is exactly correct. It has a 3psi check valve function. It does NOT leak boost because the DIFFERENTIAL between the sides of the valve must be at least 3psi for it to open. As it does open due to the high differential of the drop-throttle condition it actually performs a DUAL purpose: 1) it vents (sucks) the excess pressure from the J-Pipe 2) it prevents a stratospheric spike in manifold vacuum, keeping the valve seals from seiving oil into the intake. When I went to 15psi, I simply added a second valve and another tap on the J-Pipe. Works, cheap. I like the oil consumption aspect of the valve's operation. I think I will keep it regardless. I am using an 80 ZX N/A manifold, but drilling and tapping it was no biggie. Matter of fact, if I were to do it again, I would NOT put it on the top of the manifold, but UNDERNEATH, out of sight, out of mind. When was the last time you saw one of the stock BOV's fail??? Hell most people don't even know they're there , much less know the symptoms if it would fail! On of the FIRST things I did to mine was get rid of the "emergency relief valve" which will keep you from going over 10psi anyway.

To cross pollinate from ZC.C: "When I am king!" Sheez. The bad part about all this outside of the toddler's death. I have been sued for usless crap like this before, and I totally sympathise with Nissan. Were I in cnarge of corporate litigation, it would be waaaaay too personal. I see this one come across the desk, and it would be my puropse in life to abuse the credit reporting system to find dirt on these scumbag child-killer parents, and sic the IRS and everybody else on them! This is why we NEVER get the good stuff here in the USA. Litigation and litigousness. People who have not been outside hte USA and seen prices not ridiculously affected with liability inflated pricing will never know...

This will give Tetsu 2 weeks to get you the part if I can find his card directly when I return. I'm sure he will be able to get you the parts---bring an extra bag when you leave! As diseased as you, on a 9 day trip to Europe, I have brought a dufflebag to stuff a Eurospec Turbo Manifold into so I can see about getting it repaired since they are NLA... I should have brought a bigger bag...

Excessive valve guide wear could, in theory, allow pressures to pop them off--but since it's been rebuilt recently, then that shouldn't be a problem... If they are the correct seals for the application then I suggest the following: Top of guide must be cleaned SCRUPULOUSLY with absolutely NO residue. A NEW set of seals is procured, and with them DRY, use contact cement, gasket adhesive, hell SUPERGLUE on them. This will keep them in place, but I have run well over 17psi and mine don't blow off. Which is why I am suspect of proper application. Good Luck.

Bastaad, have you verified your timing on the camshaft? If it's installed advanced or retarded it can have a DRASTIC effect on the way an engine performs. The graph still crosses at 5252 rpm, the dyno guy sounds a bit hokey... But I agree, the stock camshaft shouldn't limit you at all. You may have something with your exhaust theory, a restrictive downpipe, crushbent elbows, etc etc etc all result in impediments to flow. I have an experiment for ya: pull off you dwonpipe, and bolt a deflector baffle to it, and dyno like that. Not only would it sound evil, it should answer your questions on pipe sizing nicely. remember JeffP saw some good numbers returned with just his 3" downpipe when used on a stock engine. Flow helps turbos! In japan it was not uncommon in the 80's to see turbo cars with freakin' sewerpipes for the turbos. I mean 100 and 125mm piping from a twin turbo setup. You guys think packaging 3" is difficult! Try 4! And bigger!

no clue as to price. the cars with the conversions have more in the conversions than I paid for all ove my Z's combined! many times if you just go into the parts counter of the locak Princ/Skyline/Z dealer you can get the P.N and Pricing by looking at fiche. Having a language barrier hepls, as they tend to let you behind the counter to point at what you want. At least they did last time I tried buying parts with a non-english speaking parts salesman!! 8) Just be advised the dealerships are set up differently in japan, you will have to find a "performance" dealer that sells skylines and Z's to have the right parts books. The Sunny dealer may not have a clue to what you are talking about! You Might Try Car Shop Ultimate if you are in Metro Tokyo area. Tetsu Takakamo is very accomodating, but alas, my namecard file is on the truck seat at home, and I'm in Milan Italy right now, otherwise I could give you the number. He has an RB in his ZX, and his company specializes in these types of conversions, so he knows the ins and outs. And probably has the parts in stock! Good Luck. If you plan on being in-country for a while I will be returning on December 1st at noon California Time, and could look for Tetsu's card then and give you the contact information then. E-Mail me so I don't forget!

Oh dudes, you have made my day! I had a late 74 260Z 2+2 GIVEN to me that I have been wondering about... Four speed car. If this indeed has my 3.36, I will not have to do the R230 swap with the 3.36 or 2.89 Armada Diffy for Bonneville! WOO HOO! And that means that other 3.9 R200 I have will already have a home... To replace the one I take out of the 2+2...

yep, the Armada has my differential in it for Bonneville. With the unavailability of 3.36 and 3.08 gearsets for the R200 any longer, I will be forced to use an Armada R230 in the ZX. I was shocked and amazed to find that the Armada was IRS in the back! Followed and Armada on I5 for almost an hour in a rental car before the owner stopped to use the head. While in there, I took the chance to examine her rearend and much to my suprise, it was just what I was looking for!

Sorry, no 200ZR models were used here in the states. And the people that have bought these parts have done so through a nissan dealer in japan and gone with NEW parts. The pan and mounts are not that cheap, but not that outrageours, either.

we exceeded 150 with under 300hp to the rear wheels under those conditions. Around 286 I believe. Then again, with 236 we only went 143 in 1.3 miles, and with 286 it took closer to three miles to go 150+ But with the radiator opening blocked off and the full bellypan there wa a run over 170... But without the G-Nose, you are literally pissing in the wind trying to simply add HP and go faster. It don't work that way with a small engine vehicle, nor with a V8. There reaches a point where a car won't go any faster unlesss you strap external combustion rockets on it's back due to the HP required to go faster. But a bodypan covering the bottom of the car is no "little thing"! The difference between the car with and without the pan is alomst another 10mph at speed. Figure out how much Horsepower yhou are getting "back" to use for forward motion for each little thing you do: remove wipers, tape seams, louver inner fenderwells to let airpressure out, remove rearview mirror, shave sidemarkers... 1# of thrust = 2HP... A JATO Bottle gives 1000# for 12 seconds... Ever watch that "mythbusters" episode? Muahahaha...

What's the chances of this: Heres' James T's Twin Turbo Dyno chart he just posted over at ZC.C on aonther topic. Please note peak torque and when it occurs: This would tend to make the clutch very unhappy, especially if you have on that is dependent on flyweights to clamp it down at higher rpms... 8) But uncannily it's near 4200, right at the magic peak point for most of the other units. The graphs should cross at 5252rpm. If they dont, or peak HP occurs before that point, something is wrong in fueling or camshaft selection!

"Witness" Above statement is true. John was in a different run group than I was, and I watched the above as it occurred! The old Vegas would have flex problems when you did the V-8 Conversions. The Z is a much stiffer unit-body that the Vega ever was! I saw rear windows pop out of Vegas when the owner goosed it coming out of a corner too hard and it hooked and twisted the chassis. You really needed a full cage and a tied together underside to make the Vega work in anything other than a straight line... Such was the differential in Engineering Philosophy between the Japanese and Domestics in the early 70's. Like they said: the toyota celica, while slightly more xpensive than the domestic Pinto and Vega, just didn't break, and everything worked from the day you bought it... Such could not be said for the US made stuff. We don't even need to revisit the immolation option of the Pinto.

oh dude, you are way off base there! Tires will not add "10mph" nor will regearing the car. A vehicle with a 3.36 and late ZX tranny using stock height wheels will have speed capabilities at 6500rpm of 160+, but not with the HP you are talking about. If anything gearing would only lower the roms you are at during your drag-limited terminal speed. This has been discussed elsewhere on the forum. But as a Crewmember on a Land Speed Record Setting S30 I will tell you there are three words that are MANDATORY if you want to break beyond 150 in an S30 body: G Nose, Aerodynamics. Horsepower only gets you so far, after that you can not jump the cube unless you CUBE the HP available from the engine. But aerodynamic aids can make a DRASTIC difference in top speed. Little tail spoiler everybody loves to run, Remove it and add 3mph at 140! I shudder to think what the 5" "Racing Edition" cuts off! New Corvette Advertising: What is the difference between a 170 mph Corvette and a 186 mph Corvette? The Headlights for one thing. New Vette has flush headlights covered with plastic (Aero Headlight Package) BIG differences in drag on things like Mirrors, Windshield Wipers, Wide Tires at speeds above 130mph. Going much faster than 150 in an S30 is not as easy as most would like to think...

the highest boost limit is limited by the INTERCOOLING. if you can perfectly or better than perfectly intercool the charge air, you can compress it all you want. Staged Turbocharger systems in Tractors run 100+PSIG! If you crank in a turbo of 30psi and cool it to near ambient, it acts like ambient air when you compress it, that is to day with no detonation...

I'm in SoCal, on 2.5 Acres, and pay about that, but it's on a 10 year loan. You see, I live in a custom Trailer. I just added two 40 foot sea containers to be a "workshop and storage" and my land values have goe to serious heights from money flush yuppies looking for "the country house"... My neighborhood once was lush Orange Groves that smelled so sweet in the spring, you could feel it on your skin---now they are mostly all gone. They are supplanted by the planned subdivisions of the $400K Stucco Yuppie Coops, that for the most part will fall apart in five to ten years. Heck my trailer is a 75, and it's holding it's own against the termites. For now...