Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
DON'T!
I have seen guys with 40 years on flatheads walk by a roadster at teh GoodGuys show, not giving the engine a second look, unitl I say something like "Hey! That's EFI!"
Usually it's "No, those are strombergs, son." And then you ask what the little black switch is on one of the throttle plates, and BOY, the sunglasses come off, people stoop, scrutinize, and "I'll be damned" usually gets uttered a few times.
Unless you look closely, you can miss it. Unfamiliarity is not stupidity. We have all been there.
-
How about he re-hot tanks it for FREE since it shouldn't have been painted in the first place?
He screwed up, it's not like it will cost him anything to strip it off again...
Aircraftstripper would work, but if he hot-tanks it, take it over someplace and have it hard-black annodized (milspec coating)---that will increase the heat transfer abilities of the aluminum almost 1.5X! Emissivity is greatly helped with black hard annodizing.
-
"Lag Inherent"?
Maybe for stuff made during the 60's from OEM, but not today.
Most monster turbos make 2-3psi already at 2K rpm. JeffP's does, and he's at 500HP+ now.
Lag comes primarily from improper driving technique, and unrealistic driving expectations from a small engine.
For the added $$$ and complexity of a second turbo, you could install modern engien controls and turbocharging components and experience FAR better response. At FAR less cost.
-
Why do you "need" an external Wastegate?
JeffP went to 500HP and still had the stock wastegate actuator on the car.
After changing to the external unit, he started wondering if he "needed" it at all! And in fact is considering bolcking it all off to check the performance of the car with his 600HP tune just to see if it was possible without all the money and fuss.
See, he laments swapping to the External before even TRYING to make his HP number without it. So I would say unless you are headed north of 500HP, an internal will do you just fine, and save you considerable $$$ and Headaches!
-
Concur, Hydraulic Ram!
I would go with a Hydraulic Ram that is hand-operated with a separate pumping unit. That way the cylinder/actuator is easily switched to a powered hydraulic pumping unit.
This way, you can use an electric pumping unit, or an air-powered pumping unit to lift/lower it (as well as pumping it up by hand)
If you choose Electric or Air, if your utilities go out, you are SOL.
WIth Hydraulics, you can still go by hand, or swap between any of the trhee motive forces for the pumping head (if you use actuator-only).
Harbor Freight has some very inexpensive 4 and 10 ton air-powered pumping units for hydraulic rams, and their 4/10 ton porta-power kits become usefull for scavenging parts when you start fabbing stuff like this.
Good Luck!
-
Eric,
Chances are they were running a four-barrel Air-Door which looks just like a carburettor.
I would bet they are EFI cars. My 260 Project looks something like that. Two 550CC injectors in the float bowls of the carburettors, hidden wiring, hidden sensors....
Muahahaha...
Now even Moon Equipment is selling Stromberg Replicas so o9lder Flathead Fords can have two injectors per "throttle body" and EFI, but LOOK like old-school Triple or Quad Strombergs complete with the littel "ship vent" stacks...
If in doubt, check it out. Some guys are very adept at cultivating a look. A non-EFI look.
-
Amen, Chris, Amen!
Pick up the top of a friend's skull and place it back on top of him while wiating for the cops and ambulance to arrive tends to change your prospective of even a "little friendly game of chase" between friends.
While YOU may not take the confrontation very seriously, and only see it as "friendly fun" due to being totally mismatched in HP terms (say, a 72 Chrysler Newport 440 Convertible and a 69 VW Beetle with a 1500 Single Port and 4 200# occupants...)---on the street you never know what the OTHER guy will do. And that is a receipe for Tradgey.
While some call it preaching, others look at it as trying to prevent others from ever having to do something that they will/can never forget, and could live without.
Believe me, I could live without that memory. I could live very happily without that "life experience".
Amen, Chris, Amen!
-
Just an observation to throw in:
IN 1986, RS Okinawa was running 444RWHP as recorded on a Bosch Eddy-Current Dyno in a N42 head, N42 Blocked Twin Turbo setup in a 75 Fairlady Z. This engine utilized Blowthrough Carburetion, and when asking the Owner about it, was simply told "It's what's available". There were no P90's available in the JDM market!
"Best" is totally subjective dependent on the market! EMISSIONS is what drove head design for the US market.
THe N42 was available with several different chamber configurations outside the USA. And was available FAR longer than in the USA. I have several 77 and 79 N42 heads I harvested in Japan. Some with monster Porting and Welded Combustion Chambers...
Anyway, remember "performance" was not necessarily the decision to be made. "Performance within required emissions parameters" is the actual phrase that should be used.
I agree with the comparison made earlier using the smog choked 76 Vette and the LT1. No comparison when going for a performance application.
When it comes down to it, "what's available" is what you will work with. I wouldn't waste any effort nor would I fret about percieved advantages or drawbacks to this head or that. Unless you are running for a national championship, a land speed record, or some serious competition I would go with what you have within reason.
One of the worst things a new person can do with a new car project is spend a lot of money on what everybody tells him he "needs", leaving little else for improving the other parts of the vehcile. Like John C says, 160hp on STOCK parts. My EFI L28 in a 2+2 dynoed at 147, runs a 15.30 with my 335# holding it back, and CONFOUNDS those who look at it.
You don't need a lot of speed parts. Optimimze what you already have first, learn to drive it well, and optimize handling and control and LASTLY, add horsepower.
Though when I was young and stupid (a comment on myself, not anyone else) I build stupid horsepower into ill handling vehicles. I have MUCH more fun now with something that handles the power I HAVE, and can still build stupid power if I want to go crazy...
(Bonneville 2006/7 204+mph anyone? The check book is getting warmed up now...
) -
All I can say is I was very disappointed at how the underpan fit on the Bonneville Car.
I was underneath the car last night while changing an oil pan, and was looking at ways to properly attach a bellypan to a 260Z.
When I saw Boyd's Alumatub Underpan, I thought "Tha'ts what OURS should have looked like! Surrrre, I'll just go have Marcel make one for me... Riiiight!
I really like the way the back portion of ZR8ED's pan looks. VEry nice, our pan for Bonneville was not nearly as clean, and was held up by (uh, forgive me) bailing wire...Anyway, I havne't done any Z-Yarn studies, but I have some Dywer Manometers to use for some static pressure stations you can attach to the car at various positions. The pressure that builds up in front of the windshield is quite substantial.
For the street, you guys have it made, you can do ALL SORTS of stuff we are PROHIBITED from doing at Bonneville. Like ducting underhood pressure to the Wheel Wells (someone mentioned low pressure there: RIGHTO!)
You wanna increase airflow across the radiator, make some big holes in the fender wells to allow stagnant underhood air to vent to a low pressure area behind the wheels while going down the road. A full bellypan would also make this necessary (or at least some louvres along the spine for letting out exhaust heat!) The bellypan WILL make the floor of the car hot! You need to carefully balance airflow across the undercar components to keep them from raidating heat into the floor and into the car. JohnC mentioned this in his post in July...
Aerodynamically, the belly pan and blocking the radiator opening helps with top speed quite a bit! Even more than running that full exhaust...
Thought, on the street, a side-exit muffler would be acceptable...
I digress.
The yarn thing really isn't that difficult to do. Just make sure your paint is appropriately adhered, and DON'T BY YARN IN SKEINS! Use "Latch Hook Yarn" which is ALREADY precut in bundles of like a thousand threads for making carpets.
Not that I ever stole latch hook yarn from my mother to yarn up my 62 Microbus after reading some atricles that said your head temperature went up 15 degrees with the windows open... (I am truly diseased, and have been so for a loong time!) I have some 8mm movies on Kodachrome of me driving my bus with about a million Blaze-Hunter's-Orange threads scotch taped to the side! (It was the 70's what can I say? Mom had som bizzare ideas about what colors were acceptable for carpets well into the 80's...)
-
With a weld like that, I would not worry about the integrity of the cherry picker.
With what I have seen lift engines gobbed together with a bizzbox while the welder was half drunk, you could probably pass for a cherry picker to lift components for the space shuttle...
Though then what it looks like on the outside isn't what they check...
-
Gads guys, elimination and troubleshooting of this problem (at least the ignition module portion of it) is so easy.
Buy a can of freez-it.
When it stalls, pull the center terminal wire of the distributor, and have someone crank it to see if you have a 1/2" spark to ground.
If not, pop off the cap, spray freezit on the inductive pickup in the distributor. Put it back together and check again. If you have spark now, it's the reluctor, if not, then...
Spray the hell out of the module and crank again---iof it starts sparking it's the ignition module.
If you have spark at step one, when you first pull the center terminal, then it's not electrical (spark generation at least), and don't waste any more effort along those lines.
Bad black boxes are common on ZX's. Very common. Originals are usually good for 200K+ miles, but time and heat take a toll, and eventually components fail. Nothing lasts forever, save the Nissan L-Block...
-
I could ship you any number of good US-Spec Turbo Manifolds (I PM-ed Frank this information) if you want one.
I would be interested in seeing how the failure occurred, and what the "bellows" looks link in between the separate pieces.
I would guess lining them up during intitial installation would have a big effect on longevity.
The US manifolds are fine if you clearance the bolt hoses so they don't get into a big shear loading.
If you want to do a swap for your broken one for a good US/JDM spec unit, let me know. (I have like three laying on the back shed slab right now!)
I would like to see that manifold in person. It's really got me curious!
-
Yeah, that is an OEM manifold, and looks very similar to diesel truck manifolds of similar vintage.
I would posit the joints are for the expansion that comes from continued on-boost operation like you would see in Europe. The manifold is much less susceptible to warpage from the exhaust heat (remember many people claiming warpage as a reason to ditch the OE manifold?).
Like Frank said, the driving conditions in Europe are such that you could be under boost for an HOUR at a time. Quite a bit more strenuous on equipment than what we EVER would see here in the USA, or the JDM.
It is very reminiscent of high-boost truck manifolds that spend hours over the road here in the US delivering groceries---the segmentation makes sense for the conditions.
I was unaware of the manifold's existence. I would like to find the fiche where it comes from, as the oddity nature of it makes me curious...
I would go for a stock JDM or US Market version if the parts are unavailable.
But I can't believe a stock Euro car would actually have a non-computer controlled distributor. ECCS controls spark, and under the Euro conditions, I would have to believe the knock control of the ECCS system would be far better than the retard cannister on a conventional "spark scatter special" distributor!
As for external wastegate, remember JeffP was making well over 400HP with an internal wastegate and ported stock manifold (and I posit he would have gone further had he gotten access to one of these manifolds....). He was reporting 23psi of backpressure in theexhaust manifold at 23 psig of manifold boost which is a phenomenal figure for a street turboed car (very efficient!)
Sad about your broken pieces. I'm sure somewhere they exist, but I would have no way to find them. Odd it says "82Z" on the manifold, too. Odd indeed!
-
Bayport Machine, Laporte Texas.
Harold Steiffel was the shop foreman when they resurected my Elliott ET18 Turbocharger casing with a machined insert so trick, even the OEM decided to send a broken casting in for them to reverse-engineer their fix!
Like Harold told me: "We can fix anything, just a matter of how much you want to pay!"
For the record, they repaired a broken casting that Elliott wanted $22,000 and 26 weeks leadtime. Their repair cost $2200 dollars, and was done in a week, and on the engine running before Elliott could even confirm their production schedule!
Since you mentioned DFW, I figured Bayporte would be the place to ask...
-
I have to agree with SHO-Z: that is only an approximation at standard conditions.
CFM, PPH, PPS, etc etc etc are all convertable, but using a simple single number is VERY crude when you consider all the variables that are really in the system!
-
I've looked through all the fiches I have access to, and can't find a three piece Nissan Manifold for the L28.
I can find several different iterations of the standard L28ET manifold depending on wether or not it's an L20ET or L28, but the physical differences look indistinguishable from each other (since I do have the L20ET and L28ET manifolds here at the house). So I'm really kinda stoked to see some photos as I can't find a three piece in the Nissan Literature I have (US and JDM)
Why are you so sure it's factory Frank? I ahve seen some nice JDM Aftermarket Manifolds with stuff like "nissan" and "L20" in the castings before, but they were made by non-OEM manufacturers like SK and HKS.
Matter of fact, the SK manifold adapter that bolts onto the stock 75 exhaust manifold is a very nice piece, and looks OE! The placement of the turbo is almost exactly where Nissan placed it 6 years later! So close, as a matter of fact, the STOCK Nissan drain line fits if you reclock a stock turbo center section about 5 degrees!
BTW, the stock Single Piece L28ET manifold is still available new, and is cheap!
-
Remember what I said at the beginning:
GO FISHING!
If you get what you want, you are ahead, and start the search anew.
Apparently while I was away it didn't meet reserve, but went to a decent $5K.
I personally would not have sold the car for $5K, and would proceed with the conversion. 7K or above, it would have been the minimum I would have taken for a sale.
It is, after all, only a 73....
-
The sad part is that people just can't leave it be.
I've said it before, I come here because elsewhere there is no moderation, and the site suffers due to it.
Whatever the Admins Desire, the darned well should do. Especially when it keeps information flowing, and keeps the troublemakers out.
-
Hmmmm, looks stalled. Spring always seems to be the hot time of year for the "q-tip and carnubba wax" crowd.
nothing ventured, nothing gained. I wonder what happened tothat guy from Norway who bought JeffP's car?
-
yeah, ditto on the photos, Xander. This sounds like some aftermarket piece rather than Factory Nissan.
Like the guy in "Dirty Harry":
"I gotsta know..."
-
Welcome to the realm of "The Turbo Group Fueler"
It was a device that used the conecpt that if you can supply fuel for 10psi at 6000 rpm, then your system can supply enough fuel for 20psi at 3000 rpms...
I could not get one of the unit,s despite knowing some of the development guys from being stationed near them on Okinawa in the 80's.
Was an interesting little device, and really gave (as you put it) really punchy low-end response.
-
A "T" in the line should work fine, be quick to install and easily answer your questions.
Do it and see what you get.
-
I'd agree, keep it if you don't get your price.
Just keep in mind that having $2000 more to work on your project (after purchase of a second car) is better than starting from zero.
Look for "project cars" for sale. Things with all the bits exposed, and lower prices. Spring is the REAL time to gather these types of bargians, so don't get in a hurry.
I hope you set a $10K reserve on it, and be quick to contact high bidders after the sale ends if it doesn't meet reserve. If anything at least you have an idea of what the market value of thevehicle might be.
Will have to go look at the ad you posted. Hope you showed the interior with all the stuff stripped out so you can show "Checked thoroughly for rust, and could find NONE!"
You watch, I'll bet money overseas buyers will contact on it. Keep your fingers crossed! GOOD LUCK!
EDIT: Wow, 12 hours and already to $1300+. That's $100 per hour. hopefully it keeps up, and by close of auction you will be a very happy seller, indeed!
-
The system JeffP is looking at out of Pantera Specialists has anti-lag and does it through rate of throttle closure sensing, map reading in the plenum, etc etc etc
Also has a "flat shift" capability when dealing with the turbo. Basically leave the foot flat to the floor, limits engine rpm and uses retarded timing and later phasing of injection events to keep boost constant during shifts...
Coool...
Diffusers and belly pans
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
you're correct, Z-Tard.
My experiments with some static pressure probes shows the vents on a 280Z hood are about the farthese back you can go without hitting the higher pressure area caused by the diffuser action of the upright windshield at speed.
Take a close look at the positioning of the 280ZX Turbo Vents, and porportionally you will see they are actually closer to the back of the engine, relative to the 280Z due to a better windshield angle on the ZX, and consequently the lower pressure at the base of the windshield, and smaller high-pressure area on the ZX.
Somewhere long ago I actually drew pressure maps from what I read on my 240 with the static pressure probes attached. I have no idea where they went---that was like 15 years+ ago!
I had much less life then, amd far more time on my hands for such foolishness!
Anyway, my understanding of the 280vents was more for radiant heat removal during slow-speed than for high-sepeed venting. Though the pressure under a hood at speed (say 100mph) is considerable, so I would expect a good stream of hot air being forced out through these vents, and mixing with the slipstream across the hood of the vehicle before being dammed up once again at the windshield.
This may sound funny, but on the old Buicks and etc at Bonneville in the 50's there was a common tactic of cutting 12" diameter holes in the firewall, and ducting that firewall area through the interior of the vehicle, to the rear windshield area using stovepipe! In one instance related to me by Dave Bearden, their vehicle showed no appreciable increase in speed from one year to the next after putting in a big hemi engine, of about 2X the HP from the previous year, sticking around 190mph. After doing some "yarn studies" and watching the car at speed, Dave went into Wendover to a hardware store, got some stovepipe, and did the above modification. The speed went from 190 to 237, and they got their record.
This story also involves an engine fire, and the pipes burning through towards the end of the return run... but that's for another topic.
Since then, that specific modification (termed in the SCTA Rule Book as an 'air vent' or 'pressure vent') has been specifically disallowed in all classes. Now you have to figure out how to accomplish it without using the easy piping. It becomes increasingly difficult to cheat when you have guys out there who have literally been doing it for 50+ years! 8)