Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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James, you know where Spearco gets thier cores made, right? ATI, the same people who supply Atlas Copco with air-to-air intercoolers for air compressors (hmmm, similar, but different!)
They also supply the cores for Ford and Banks, and just about anyone else you can think of...
They are a German Based company with applications engineers here in the USA (Salesmen) I can look up their information when I get home if you like. They seem very willing to sell whatever they have in stock if you supply the specifics. We were using them as a go-around for OEM Compressor Applications. While they would not sell us the "same" core or build as they would supply to the OEM for obvious supplier agreement reasons, they were more than willing to supply a "Custom" application with our own part number on it that was basically a reverse-engineering of the A/C I/R, Quincy, etc air coolers.
On an aside, the Garrett (Honeywell) R&D Lab in Torrance CA has a full Intercooler Fabrication facility. They can braze the plate and fin coolers together on-site for their own testing. Can you imagine what goes into the scrap bin after the dyno testing is done? LOL
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I know what you mean Cyrus!
Always seems when you WANT something, there's none to be found, but after you GET something there are a DOZEN or so for cheaper that surface in the next month.
A lot of it is market timing.
Mark My Words, it's only a matter of networking with the right people, and waitingfor the "spring cleaning season" to roll around and the deals start rolling in.
I keep a file of "Fairlady Friends" in my laptop, and wherenever one comes up for sale, a post goes out to them.
you never know what will show up, and unless everybody you know is looking FOR you at the same time, it never seems like there is a deal to be had.
My bud was out looking for Z's one day, and casually mentioned there was a nice little Datsun 1200 for sale for $1500 in this guys yard, and an old Datusn Truck out back. Plus what he thought was a black 510 in the side yard.
Before he could go any further, I said "go back and ask him how much for the 510!"
Now, ANY 510 in SoCal seems to go for $1500. Period. Sure there are the station wagons that someone finds for $300, or thereabouts, but they always keep those deals themselves.
What I ended up with was a 1969 Datsun 510 (early style) COUPE for $250. While it's rough, all the glass that was broken is included with the car, and in an odd twist of fate, a car half filled with dust from the desert suffered a rot-out of the driver's side floorpan, but without a SINGLE spot of rust anywhere else on the car!
So the key is networking, and having the capital to move on an oppportunity when the time arises. And selling this beauty will definately give him MORE than the $500 he expended. And I would venture to guess a solid, stripped interior car would be available for well under $3500.
For what it's worth, I have a TOTALLY STRIPPED, titled, 72 Shell with ALL RUST REPAIRS COMPLETED sitting in my backyard, and have had it there for THREE YEARS. Someone made me an offer on it a month or so ago since they needed a stripped chassis for a racer car project, and I promised it to them.
For $200.
Killer deal, especially if you find any number of rusted out hulks that are complete for well inder $1000, combine the two for necessary parts, and Viola! Rust Free Race Car!
But nobody here asked for a shell now, did they?
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like I said:
good rust-free partial conversion are CONTINUALLY on sale in California.
The most I would expect to pay would be $3500, and in any case, with all the structural things he's doing anyway, the "rust repair" will not be a factor on just about any California Car he builds.
Fact of the matter is the car is worth at LEAST $7K in it's condition (maybe do a rub out on the paint and some cleaning).
It may go for considerably more.
When you look at similar economic comparisons, a rust free car you buy for $3500 is a BETTER deal than one you get for $500, when the $3500 one leaves you with $3500 in the bank!
Keeping the car will only be a continual cash outlay from this point on.
Selling it, and though the project waits for a few months (maybe) while he sources another car, the starting bank account will be $3500 for the project (if he buys a $3500 car, MORE if he buys a less expensive unit).
Better cash flow management.
If he even buys a $6500 car (which will be DAMN NICE!) he is no further BEHIND than he is now. I ahve seen what $6500 buys in California, and I'm telling you he would be FAR better following that route!
Most 240's go for around the low $3's. Competent clean starter cars. For the extra $6500, chances are you will get something with performance items like wheels, tires, roll bar, etc etc etc....
All will be saleable commodities, and will not cost him one red cent more out of his pocket.
I'm looking at this from a purely financial standpoint, and my feeling is that an equivalent donor can be found or built using proceeds from the sale of this vehicle and STILL leave him more money for the project.
This isn't back east where a rust bucket will set you back $5K. This is California. Hell, I'd bet you could go to a local Lein-Sale Impound and find several donors that wouldn't cost more than $200, and having a professional rust repair done wouldn't cost more than $3K.
I mean, look at the facts thusfar: he wasn't planning on using the INTEROIR. That says I can look for "project cars for sale" in the classifieds, as buying a car WITHOUT an interior will be MUCH cheaper than a stocker complete.
Heck, even Bastaad agrees: "guaranteed you will find someone selling a done or very-close-to-done V8 swap Z, usually in the $3000-5000 range"
And THAT is exactly what my position and strategy would be.
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Dude, I don't really care one way or another what you do with the car, but like many people get stuck in a rut, step back ad THINK about your goals.
Now JM was saying it was your car. He's right. But he is also being very closed to what to me is the most obvious choice: PROFIT.
When I see your car, and now seeing the documented photos from the interior, the collector value (STOCK CARBS EVEN!) is VERY high with this vehicle.
Some anal-q-tip up their butt concours guy will spend in my estimation 7K for this car!
Could you USE that $7K to defray the costs of the buildup you plan on doing?
Could you find a NICE SOLID fairly rust free car in SoCal (Or even Nor Cal) from someone who has already started a modification routine and now has to sell for whatever reason?
I think so.
I believe your project while requiring some more time to prep will be FAR better off if you PROFIT from this purchase, and use the proceeds for the buildup of another car you can get that is just as nice, but with a roll cage ALREADY IN IT!
It's not that the car is "too nice to cut up" FAR from it! But the condition it's in will ATTRACT suckers to the light and get you a LOAD of cash in the process.
I would SERIOUSLY post the photos on E-Bay with a reserve of $10 or $14K, and see where the bidding goes. if you get nibbles above $7K, contact the biddres, SELL IT, and reap the rewards of a find like this!
That is what I would do! You amy do something else, but for me, having a $7K return on a $500 investment is just TOO GOOD to walk away from.
You can always say "no" to any offer below what you think is fair.
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Screw that NEW stuff! I want that pile of rusty OLD metal in the article!
So let me get this right: "Liguid Metal" holds the rights. it can be flattened, squeezed and moulded like plastic....
Anyone remember "Terminator 2"?
"Have you seen this little boy?"
Something is going on here. And I think the Black Helicopters have something to do with it!
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then again, what's your plan for those steel wheels? i got money for ya when I return form Taiwan. I need a set of early wheels for the Fairlady I'm restoring---won't have the right datecodes, but they will "look" close enough.
When was the last time anyone here saw factory trim rings and center caps on steel wheels with 6.45-14 Bias Ply tires? Talk about Skinny Tires...
And yeah, Bias Plies sound SOOOOO much better than radials when you do a "spite burnout"
And I couldn't resist: it's at CarTalk at ZC.C. This find is just to good. One of the hoaxbusters kind of stories.
Almost like something I run into.
Oh, and did I say "You SUCK" yet?
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CLEAN IT AND SELL IT!
JeffP had a car in nice shape like that, and it sold for $7K to a buyer on E-Bay in norway!
I'm sure you could pick up a NICE donor vehicle forthat, and have plenty of money left over for some moer LS1 goodies when you have that money in your pocket!
I would not hybridize it, would SELL it, make a buttload of money, and then buy something that perhaps was already formerly molested for a swap. Chances are you will be no worse off for it, and you pocketbook will be in much better shape.
This has absolutely nothing to do with "preserving" a 240...this is totally economics. This is money left in your lap, and to not take advantage of it, and buy another for around $3500 (leaving the remaining $3500 for that Vortech Supercharger kit for the LS1) would be a REAL sin!
And on the subject of Petaluma...
Dude, you SUCK!
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7500, then 7800, now it's 6500...
Well, nice cool night air in Indianapolis is where I need to be with my Land Speed Car for running a record, because, dude, you have the ONLY stock car that will run those numbers...
Please, stop while you're ahead
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all looks good.
YOu can simply install a "T" fitting and loose nothing.
make sure you use the restrictor to cut flow to the Turbo---even through the small 1/8" orifice in the stock "T" the turbo is over-oiled.
JeffP used a restrictor---check his webpage for the size he used...
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Mooneyes dealer off Norwalk Blvd in Los Angeles can help.
So Cal Speed Shop? They got all the old hotrod stuff....
Might be Moon Industries...
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retorque the headgasket, and try again!
And I bet now you learn why people like me don't put anti-freeze in until after break-in!
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"Information is not knowledge
Knowledge is not wisdom
Wisdom is not truth "
another: "meanwhile, mary was backstage..."
Muahahaha!
Yes, if you plan on modding it, what difference is ther but A/C that actually WORKS!
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J. are you my long lost twin brother, separated from me at birth?
Or perhaps my REAL younger brother?
As those are my exact reasons for preferring a 260 over a 240.
My supposedly "real" younger brother "saves money" buy changing his own oil (adds a quart when low) and doing his own brakes (waits till he hears metal, replaces rotor and pads) and actually called me to wonder why his Civic (!!!) lunched it's THIRD engine whilst going 110 down the Lodge Freeway in Detroit! (I think it was the last guy that worked on it---he didn't tell me I needed oil. 'what was he doing?' Brakes...) Yeah, you can't go 110 with only a quart of oil in it, Nick...
Are you SURE you aren't my REAL brother. Please tell me the nontechnically inclined bro isn't really my spawnmate...
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at Bonneville one year, there was a red pontiac trans am that blew out his T-Tops at over 280mph, and went into a flat spin.
Talk about the "brown shorts driving club"!
I don't like T-tops. They scare me... Can you imagine having TWO 1/2" metalstraps holding your T-Top on, and STILL loosing it. I wonder: "Did his ears pop?" There HAD to be decompression when it flew off.
I know that ears popping in other sphincters puckering may be a sympathetic response and occur simeltaneously, but in many cases puckerage does not stop...uh.... well you know.
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Challenge ACCEPTED!
While running at ElMirage three years ago, Andy Flagg in the Land Speed 280Z went into a flat spin at 140+mph!
The car went fully backwards, and about 195 degrees of rotation before the parachute deployed over the TOP of the hatch and jerked him back straight ahead...
He ended up running over THREE of his chute cords!
He actually went through the traps partially backwards with a speed (slowed by the chute) of around 132 and change....
When we went into Tech for spin check, they said "only one record per day!"
Uh, noooo, guys, this is a "spin tech"...
You SPUN? Really?
Like coming through the tech for a record was the normal M.O. for the car (which it kinda was at that time...LOL
)So it wasn't me, but I was driving the recovery truck to go pick up Andy who DID spin at just over 140...
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ooo key, the worlds only top-end turboed 280 with a 7800 rpm stock engine has weighed in......
The photo on the autobahn was my screensaver for about three years until that computer terminally crashed. It was actually 145 indicated, with proper sized tires, and a stock non-intercooled L28ET (eurospec) at 10psi boost in a 240Z
The ZisiZit Super-Z went something like 178mph with a 280 body. I do not believe he had a G-Nose. This is the guy who (yes F-n-F Fans) blew the WELDS on his manifold. Apparently he was running 25psi, and sheetmetal a bit thinner than what he should've, and during the run on long course BLEW the manifold apart!
So now that you guys have a boost figure, and a body configuration, and know what JeffP makes around 23psi...
Can you figure how much HP it takes to get a Stock Bodied Z over 150mph?
I'm with John C on this one. Anything over 150 TRUE is a difficult feat to accomplish. And it AIN'T happenin' in NUTHIN Stock Datsun 6-Style!
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Just saw the link at ZC.C you posted.
Check out Lynn Burkholder's setup...
He is running the Electromotive setup for years on his Supercharged Z, anywhere from 12 to 17psi.
He has lots of experience with the setup.
Seeing your manifold, that gives me an idea for the 510 and that 80CID Blower I picked up last year... Far Easier conversion than what I'd seen in the past!
Lynn is in the Ontario ZCC up in Canada. I believe his contact information is on their Website.
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an S30 and an S130 are two entirely different animals and should not be classed in teh same category at all.
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I live about 15 miles from you, used to live in Corona...
Where in Corona are you located, it's become a big place. I'm off Van Buren and the 91 now up in Riverside. And am a Group Z member.
Though right now I'm 8600+ miles away tapping out on the keyboard in Singapore....
I'll be back the 23rd, e-mail me off forum, and we can get something together. Just helped complete a turbo conversion on a 240Z Roadster up in Diammond Bar, which turned out to be a hoot to drive.
Cheers!
TonyD
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on a zxt manifold, there is a BOV (vacuum control valve) AND a relief vavle.
The perform two separate and distinct functions.
One (the BOV, AKA Vacuum Control Valve, ported into #4 Intake Runner) controls pressure rise in the intake manifold after the throttle is snapped shut, relieving pressure from the turbocharger to keep it from a stall condition, and to blow it into the intake manifold, keeping the valve seals from experiencing a rapid spike to total vacuum keeping oil consumption down.
The other (the emergency pressure relief valve, the big golden round thing on the top on the manifold near the EGR Valve) is simply an emergbency relief valve to keep the turbo from overpressurising the intake manifold over about 10psi---where the stock fuel map stops! It is a failsafe for the wastegate. If you disconnect the wastegate, and drive hard, you will find the Emergency Relief valve opening wooshwooshwoosh continually to keep manifold pressure at a safe level for the fuel delivery available.
They are two different valves, with very different reasons for being there. No, Nissan made no mistakes--but a lot of peole get them confused through lack of understanding of the system and how it is supposed to operate. "Works for Me" and "Properly Engineered" are not mutually inclusive terms in may cases... In many cases, they are mutually exclusive when scrutinized closely, as a matter of fact!
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I used the check valves from the donor car (83ZXT) on the vacuum system, and the original brake booster check valve from the 260.
I have been running the stock brake booster check valve in my turbo 240 since 87 with no problems.
But yeah, I grabbed the turbo check valves (which looked the same as the stock 260Z check valves) and used them on the vacuum reservoir for the heater controls.
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at 45 degrees below zero, on a frosty Michigan Morning, Amsoil was the ONLY lubricant available that had the viscosity required when hot, AND that would allow me to actually SHIFT the transmission in my 62 VW Microbus.
After moving to CA, and going back to Dino Oil (no big swings in temperature!) I experienced, after a rebuild of the tranny and reduction boxes, a TERRIBLE sound like something binding and breaking after 3+ hours of straight through highway driving at 75mph+.
Tranny rebuilder told me the reduction gear boxes were overheating and breaking down the Dino Oil. Put the Amsoil back into them, and it's there to this day, 65K miles later. Regular Particulate sampling shows no undue flaking of gearsets, synchros, etc...
So I have synoil in all trannys and gearboxes ever since...
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webers will work, but get composite float assemblies from later models, as mentioned earlier, the brass units tend to collapse around 10+ psi.
The guy you are talking about is David Glidewell, and is a Group Z member. You may be able to leave a message at the Group Z SCC Yahoo Groups Site and maybe he'll contact you with some answers.
David and I were the two of the three or four "blow through turbo"guys in Group Z back in the early 90's. My tank was a copy of the HKS Surge tank, and didn't sufferethe lean surge problems inhjerent in the smaller cartech styled box. Something to be said for pressure diffusion and proper airflow entry to the carbs. I used soft mounts on my carbs, and never had blowout problems, then again I was using good Mikuini Pieces, and not the phenolic knock-off crap sold today.
Mine was low-key, running only 10 to 17psi (when I got spunky) and returned 17mpg in daily driving to and from work in SoCal.
It also gave me cleser to 5mpg when driven hard.
Everything encountered with carbs is solvable if you have the right information. David is unwilling to experiment with modulator rings in front of the carbs to take care of his lean surge transition problem, as are most people when they reach that stage of tune with triples and a blowthrough setup.
I, myself saw the light, and went EFI some time ago. It has taken some time to find the original HKS EFI TB's (triples like the Mikuinis) and the original HKS Surge Tank (was over $1000 in Japan whilst I was there) so soon an "old school lookalike" turbo motor will be back under the hood of my 73... And Sharkie will prowl once again!
Really, go with EFI and save yhourself a LOT of headaches and an excruciating learing curve! There is a lot to be said for going out to the car, and just turning the key after a hot run and shutdown on a summer day. Believe me, if you think 74 and 73 engines had hot-start issues, try driving a blowthrough turbo car in desert heat!
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In 1984, when I touched down in Japan, the head was still available at around $12,000.
In 1989, whne I left, due tot he Yen going from 268 in 84 to 131 in 89, the price at the same speed shop in American Dollars had risen to $24,000+.
I really hate to sound like a broken record, but ANYONE saying "it won't cost a ball" or "wil it be reasonably" priced is out of touch with the REALITIES of the situation.
I have seen Japanese S30 vehicles with over $60K in modifications on them, and for those owners, a $24K head is something to set them apart from the rest of the crowd.
There is NO WAY IN HELL you will even sniff the FARTS of the guy laying up the cope for the casting, much less get a completed head out of OS Gikken for anything under $10K, and I'd venture to say $20 by now!
Nissan realized the weaknesses inherent in the L-Block, and after experimentation withthe NISSAN crossflow head (The LY) they shelved further development on the L-Series for the NEXT GENERATION of L-6, the RB Series.
If you want and "Original" L-Series, bet an LY head, they are still around, and only run you around $60K complete engine assembly---the head alonw bare is going for around $25 to $40K depending on where you source it and how willing they are to part with it. The these levels, the block it's bolted onto is merely a support for the display of the head itself...
Weird boost happenings after I/C install (long)
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
Question:
Where are you taking your boost gauge signal from?
I have my wastegate signal taken from a port I tapped in the intake manifold. I used an old turbo fitting, and a hole for an M6 bolt that was there no more, greased up a drill, sunk a hole, greased up a tap, and tapped it.
So it takes pressure reading from the intake plenum.
But I'm curious as to where you are reading boost pressure from on you gauge.