Tony D

This is the text from a post recently at ZC.C that shows some interesting "debunking" numbers: Author: Z boy (---.rh.psu.edu) Date: Mar 21, 6:35pm results assuming frontal area of 22 square feet, .45 drag coefficient and standard airpressure of 14.7 psi hp frontal cd speed 150 22 0.45 129.3558304 (stock Z body/engine configuration) 200 22 0.45 142.3745137 300 22 0.45 162.9781336 (see how adding HP helps) 400 22 0.45 179.3806468 (even more but not so much more?) 286 22 0.35 174.41845 (stock Z with headlight covers, GNose, Bellypan, Radiator blockoff) 286 22 0.38 169.7021086 (stock Z with headlight covers and G-Nose OR stock S130 coachwork factory stock...) 345 22 0.45 170.750488 (a comparison number) pumped out on the lovely MS Excel. numbers match up pretty well i think -z boy- The link is: http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=4&i=145523&t=145092

Xander have you uploaded your MS fuel tables for your 260? I have an N/A project in the works, and it will probably stay N/A---so far I have Sim's L28 maps, but nothing form a 2.6. Did you upload the stuff to the MS site. I would also be interested to see how your performance increases with the MS-n-S on your already proven MS setup on your vehicle. (As I am with Sim's Progress!) If I ever get back home, I look forward to trying out my ground troubleshooting to fire off the 260 ZT 2+2 again!

Sounds cool! A "250ZR" better than the one Nissan Made!

and so it begins, the transformation to the dark side, muahahaha.... You just can't stand having that 250Kpa MAP in there, and and not using but half it's capabilities---that's the root of all this, isn't it Sims! Good Luck on the turbine, I am going with one as suggested like this whenever the stock unit (and it's spare) craps out on my 74 260Z 2+2 Turbo MS-n-S vehicle. The Black 240Coupe I have will get the last-spec turbo before JeffP did his final upgrade. The Bonneville car, will have something altogether different, and I doubt it will be very streetable, muahahaha!

mmmmmm, this is helpful. I can conceptualize it in my head now given that starting point... I will like to try when I get home...if I ever get home to play on the darned thing sometime this MONTH!

100HP/Litre on his last dyno runs before Bonneville last year. At the rear wheels, Normally Aspirated. L28 bored .040", L28 Crank, no stroker. Built in his home garage. EFI makes it idle nice... wow, I can log in again....

Factory ZXT Engine Oil Cooler uses an SAE 45degree flare fitting with -8 (1/2", 12mm) Hose.

go over to Z Car.com, search the tech archives for Ian's post on how to do the interconnect. The wire to wire information is all there and if you follow his instructions, it will run on the first go. FAQ here might be a good place to start, too.

I doubt you don't have a need for coolant overflow: what happens when the radiator cap lifts? There is where you need to connect the overflow bottle. You are swapping in the standard pedal cluster, to actuate your clutch, right? Teh clutch switch should be there and with the FSM you should be able to find the wires to hook up. You can also use the nuetral/park wires from the tranny on the switch attached to the clutch pedal.

Pump in epoxy through the water passages as a sealant against incomplete welds, and porosity. This is what the outfit I mentioned above does---this is for when they "metal stitch" water jackets together...if they can fix a water passage with 10-32 bolts securing 1/4-20 bolts lockstitched together, welding sealants should be a cinch. Afterwards, heat the whole thing to 200 degrees and pressure test it by immersion, and youre done. The headbolt should hold the respective parts together fine---I have an idea how the welding would be done by me, but it would require a lot of machine work to the combustion chamber, etc.. but that would be something that I would be secure in knowing had 100% structural integrity as if the thing was cast that way from the fac tory. Cutting little windows on the outside to aqccess the inner parts is a good plan---but I would use more than 1/4 working space, and just weld the externals back in in chunks. Looks like hell, but you will have an easier time of it doing the welding. Also figure a way to purge the internals really well with shield gas so you could really run a long electrode out in front of hte cup, and not worry about not shielding the internals that well. and make sure your waterjackets are acid-washed CLEAN! Keep us posted. Love those photos, hi-speed at work is great!

customarily welding is done at a cost per lobe.Depends if they have an automatic wire-feed submerged-arc welding machine. I know Powers-Brother's machine in L.A. has one, but they do industrial stuff for the most part. Paeco does it, but I have not had stuff done there. They're in Birmingham AL. They charge by the lobe. Same thing for repairing journals so they can be reground to stock spec again, instead of undersize. Good Lcuk with the project.

That's too cool! As for naysayers, they said tungsten couldn't be drawn into a wire for light filaments---Edison didn't know that engineering "fact" so he did it anyway. I'm sure there were a lot of metalurgists who said the light couldn't work, as it sat there glowing in front of them. i have seen amazing things done with cast-aluminum heads. The key is having the parts in a jig when you weld them, preheating and cooldown done in the proper way, and hten judiciuos application of hydraulic pressure to straighten anything out needed for minimal decking at the end. There is a company in Tulsa Oklahoma that does WONDERS on stationary equipment. Stuff you thought was wrecked beyond repair---they fix and barely break a sweat! I mean loose counterweights almost cutting an inline 12 cylinder Sulzer Diesel in half! Fixed. Chucked Rod in a 3-Deck high Ships diesel with a ventilated block (you could WALK through the hole in the port-side engine block wall) in three places...FIXED! Our stationary 10X10.5" V16's lost a rod, and they fixed that in less than 12 hours. Repaired the holes in the block and camshaft area, relined the upper and lower liner counterbores, and redecked the left cylinderbank, all in-place, and in the field! Totally awesome. I told them "if you ever come to fix anything in the L.A. area again, call me, I'll come down and watch!" They did several times in the next few years, and I was always amazed. I know that didn't mention welding, but these guys showed me photos of welded stuff they did, and I stopped saying it was "unrepairable" after that!

Yes, I used the "A" series Nissan units as shown above on several high-lift engine. They work very well, especially if you get aftermarket units. The "A" series is the correct one---they fit like stock, are considerably shorter, and come from an OHV engine just like the Capri units. I have heard of the Capri seals before, but have not used them myself. On another type of engine, we experienced valve sticking (retainer to stem grabbing) due to lack of lubrication from using a seal assembly off something else that "Fit" but sealed _much_ better than the stock OE seals. Sticking valves cause wierd symptoms... But I have heard of Capri Seals being used, so you are probably O.K. I used the "A" series units with good success. Good Luck on the buildup.

I have to disagree with you on the catalytic converter Mudge. The BAR has classified the Catalytic Converter a "chassis" item, and if you are doing a newer engine swap into an older non-catalyzed vehcile, you are NOT required to install the cat. Wether the vehicle passes the test without the cat is another matter altogether. Basically, they make it hard for vehicles without a cat to pass to the stricter emissions levels required for 90+ cars. Doing a swap from a mid 80's RB motor would easily pass smog for the years without a cat. My 73 with a 71 SU setup piped clean to 83 California Standards without a cat! Of course it failed the visual for lack of an EGR... but Smog Check has very little to do with cleaning the air...but that is a rant for another time! The conversion process would take a trip to the referee at a minimum, along with scrupulous documentation of the engine source (Donor vehicle VIN, donor vehicle emission tag, etc) To follow the letter of the law, it is MUCH easier to swap in a compliant domestic or imoprted V-8 than an originally non-compliant engine of any size or non-US spec source.

I believe (but am not 100% sure since I wasn't there) that Andy ran in the "Fuel" class during one of the last runs at Bonneville. Since the engine was on it's way out with piston-pins having nice gouges in the block, he figured "WTF" and gave it a go. But I'm not sure he used Methanol. He may have run Methanol, or Nitromethane in just enough porportion to change the specific gravity of the gasoline in the tank to get it to class as a "fuel" vehicle for the run. It's straightforward, but expect some fun times with SS lines, and special methanol friendly fuel system components. I know he has a clearanced NO2 Block prepped and ready to go to run in the Fuel/NO2 class but that's after breaking all the 2-litre records...

I fully support you in Administrating and Moderating to whatever extent necessary. As you stated, the rules are clearly stated. I moved here more recently to escape "unmoderated" forums where people were content to be unconstructive. I know this site is moderated, and choose to come here specifically because it is strictly moderated. If you choose to have a "short fuse" I accept any reason (or lack thereof) you choose to use to moderate the site as you all see fit. I only come here to learn. Whatever promotes efficient exchange in your eyes, I accept. If I have a problem with it I am free to leave, or at least let someone know in a constructive way of any suggestions I may have. Appropriate forums exist for off-topic stuff, us techno-geeks deserve our last refuge... No chance of making this a text-only 2400-baud friendly old style BBS exchange is there?

I take it the DSM doesn't have a vacuum line to the manifold for a reference pressure. My Trust unit (bought used in 87) has somewhere around 50K miles on it, and still seats fine, though it is a manifold-referenced unit. It uses a spring pressure with manifold pressure behind it to seal under boost, and the preload on the spring determines how "hard" it lifts under lift-throttle. I have it set really light, so even a slight lift will cause a bypass back to the inlet. I would surmise that threading a fitting on the spring side of the DSM valve through the sheetmetal dome (if I am thinking of the right unit in my head ) and then using some high-stregnth epoxy putty to seat it and hold it in place would convert the DSM valve to a manifold referenced unit (much like converting N/A Mechanical Fuel Pumps in the dark days of blowthrough...) and result in some very positive seating under all boost levels---though when you lift-throttle since the spring is preset, you will have a similar popoff (harshness-wise) as a stock application. Just a thought.

that looks almost like my Fujitsbo Racing Header, except for the where the collector is positioned. The Fujitsbo comes a bit closer to the shock tower, and then passes right where the steering linkage is on the LHD cars (RHD Application only!) I gotta get that thing Jet-Hotted before any more corrosion "lightens it" any more...

Easy! Buy the Nissan Gasket without the trim slot. It was used on the Fairlady 432-R models. No chrome strip on the hatch glass. I had that gasket, and foolishly didn't import the one I had in my car when I left Japan. There is a part number for it in the books, but good luck finding one now!

you want endplay! In some cases, if you do not have at least .003" there will not be enough space for adequate oil flow across the face of the bearing, and some galling/wipeout may occur. Especially withthe "clutch depressed before & during cranking" process used on many cars these days with clutch idiot switches... I miss my old VW. I always started it in Nuetral, and after 98,000+ miles, the thrust bearing looked like new. Tight is not always good...

same here: oil, glass plate, and some 400# wet-n-dry paper...

I used a P82 manifold (like the one in the photo for the 79ZX) except without the EGR. There are a lot of P82's out there sans EGR and they clean up nicely, though the plenum volume is smaller than the early N42. But with all that increased area that an Intercooler and piping adds, maybe the slightly smaller volume helps on-boost response. At least that's what I'm hoping. If I ever get these processor resets licked.... I had a setup like Speeder's on my old Mikuini Blow-Through setup...

grrrrreat, you are back at it. Then I can start the sponging process all over again! Currently tracing a processor reset and wild tach.... Maybe the 81CAS is different... I'm going to recheck my grounds before posting anything further. Been internet-less this whole week, so no archive research, no online help, nuthin... Very frustrating when you have the time, and now that I have a direction to go, it looks like I will be away from the house for three weeks on a job... Keep us posted on the sticky---especially when you get dyno/track results!

The only thing the ECCS does in relation to the A/C is to increase the idle speed via the AAC so the engine doesn't stall when the clutch on the compressor engages. You don't need to control this through the Megasquirt, all you need is a solenoid, and bypass bleed circuit with a needle valve hooked in parallell withthe compressor clutch power wire. Why do I know this? Because my 74 260Z is having the compressor installed tomorrow afternoon, and that's how I'm controlling it! Basically all you need is a variable circuit so you can fine tune the speed when the compressor is loaded up. Once you have it set, barring dirt contamination you should be good. You could also simply grab the vacuum pulloff from a 280Z, and hook an old EGR solenoid in the clutch circuit, for an old-school vacuum pulloff opening the throttle incrementally while it's engaged. No need to involve the ECu at all for the A/C!

Make that a "Michigan Bet" with the teacher, dude! What's a "Michigan Bet" you ask? "Sir, for every 1hp I make, you owe me a dollar, but ONLY if I exceed 400 to the wheels. For every HP I fall short of 400, I pay YOU $20 per horsepower!" Quickly realize you BETTER have 380 to the wheels or you will be paying him some serious money! But if you already KNOW what you got, it's a good way to make people (as another Michigander Ted Nuget would say:) "Put up or Shut Up!" I made a bet like that on how much weight I could loose. The guys who bet against me was very sorry. For money, I'll starve. No problem!