Tony D

Absolutely. They can burn a custom chip and do with it what you want. BEAR IN MIND THAT DIY EFI HAS PLUG AND PLAY MEGASQUIRT ECU'S THAT DRIVE THE STOCK GM TBI HARNESS. That gets you fully programmable fuel injection without sending a chip back to be reburnt and arguing with the guy burning the chip about what you want done versus what he thinks you need done!

"I'm seriously beginning to question why I'm bothering with MS2, but I don't want to admit defeat yet." After being in on Group Buy #2 in 2002, and running MS-n-Se from Magnus since....I've yet been given a cogent reason to fight the MS2 battle until my chip (and the three spares I have) have given up the ghost and totally died. By then, old Motecs will likely be on eBay for $300 all day long and I'll just use them...

As I said, past torque peak we pulled fuel like crazy. AFR is not an indication of Horsepower. The reason it felt like a million bucks was likely it was running right where it was supposed to be running! We were anywhere from 12.8 to 13.8 AFR above 4,500 to 7,400 where JP just decided to stop testing....mainly because the turbo was out of air but also because he was frightened knowing L-Engines catastrophically detonate and kill everybody within a 200m kill radius if they hit 7,500 ... or at least that's what I read on the internet. Since then, it's become apparent there was exaggeration and the end of the world does NOT come at 7,500 rpms on an L28 stroker, nor does it come at 8,500...

First, get the term "high compression" out of your vocabulary when dealing with any mass-market vehicle produced from 1975-1990 or thereabouts... The ET has "low compression" -- artificially low from a conservative engineering standpoint. Swapping to or between E and ET models in the Nissan line is done with impunity. 220 is child's play with a VG30ET---I believe that was the stock rating. Even with the stock components, and a boost controller to bump to 10psi you're well within the safe range of the engine with the Z31 ET ECCS. We're talking swapping injectors, ECU's, and some external bolt on components. For the power goals you state, that's the quickest way to do itl Add an intercooler and bump the fuel pressure and 14psi is waiting for you... If you want a 222HP N/A VG30...go find a Z32 and take that 222HP VG30DET and do another swap....lot more work, much tighter fit, no more gain than what you get going turbo over a weekend with the E to ET Swap.

Dang, reviewing my photos I realized in a flash that I had a pristine early 260Z roller I picked up...guy stripped to nothing and started on the dynamat. very clean chassis with title... Bad thing is that, indeed, it's in my Hoarde. And I have several 'donor' 260's with which to repopulate it's interior with!

This is what is explained, with diagrams, in the FSM section... I saw it so long ago I can't tell you where or what FSM...I just remember it's in there! As to the driving issues, the JDM models have a SEPARATE switch that works in conjunction with the combo switch to control parking lamps. There is a small socket for the Parking lamp light in the S30 turn signals, sometimes it;s plugged with a rubber plug, other times the hole is not there at all. THAT was your parking lamp. The lights that come on when you turn on the combo switch are something other than "Parking" lights... that was indeed a separate circuit in the JDM and could be lit independently (turn on only left side or only right side per traffic laws in Japan --and California incidentally-- which require the side of the vehicle facing traffic when on the shoulder have the lights illuminated after dark while parked there.)

Terminal 1 is always the high tension coil lead in Europe. 86 a switched relay 86a an aux contact set of that same relay, 15 the ignition or some such logic... Outside of Europe, it doesn't mean anything! None of this is standardised in any way. As I said, in the FSM there is a legend that explains Pin Numbering. The biggest problem anybody has is using their prior conceptions to apply to another system which works on logic that is totally different. Generally, there is absolutely no correlation, and the best way is to flush what you know and start over with the FSM and what they tell you. I see that here with the American Logic of "why don't they make a custom drawing for every vehicle built" which in essence is what you're implying taken to a logical OEM standpoint (The company I work for does this, from their history in API, unfortunately in the Industrial Market where costs are paramount, they STILL have yet to figure out how to draw a 'universal' wiring diagram that covers what are supposed to be STANDARD BUILDS and use "ONE" wiring diagram for EVERY unit!) They don't do a US Specific Diagram. They did a North American Market Diagram. It's not just America, there's Canada and Mexico as well. Why draw a specific diagram per country that covers 400 vehicles, when you can draw one that covers every car on the continent? An interesting aside is that Suzuki DOES do country-specific diagrams. My DB51V has the Japan Market Diagram for only Japan. When it was an Export Model, the entire world EXCEPT GERMANY had the same wiring diagram for LHD or RHD Applications. GERMANY had (at that time) specific requirements for vehicle lighting. Now, on current generation models of the Every Van, it's Japan, THE WORLD (RHD/LHD as some components 'move around') and EURO-ZONE.... Europe has standardised now and requires, apparently, that manufacturers comply with some standard callouts (as noted above, VW Wiring diagrams have been this way for decades!) As for assigning Meanings "M=Maximum, D=Drive" why isn't it enough that they are simply "M" and "D"? There may be a logic to what letters they chose, but there may not be. At that time, the Japanese had some very strange translation issues... it was all over the industry. The Fairlady 432R has the Chassis Code "PS30SB" whereas a run of the mill not-intended-for-straight-to-racing-duty 432 got Chassis Code "PS30"---what> "PS30 Special Bersion"---and I'm NOT kidding! So you MIGHT think you are assigning logical names, but usually somewhere somehow the kid withthe camera saying 'thankyouvery much, hairpie hairpie" came back to Nissan in the late 60's and since he spoke such "good" English he dictated the names of things and someone just wrote down what he said. We had a senior engineer at our Japan Distributor who did our screen translations. It wasn't until he RETIRED that they requested that some screen translation Kanas be changed to reflect what they actually meant. Our 'coastdown timer' had been translated to "Gone on Summer Vacation".... the first Field Engineer that got an ENRAGED customer calling wanting to know why his forging plant was down and his machine tripped to "Go on Summer Vacation in October" was NOT easily translated on our NCR paperwork!. When Training on these electrical circuits instructors would say "The M Contact Set to the Headlight for Passing" or whatever. They were called out by letter or number and rarely anything more. We do similar in our training "Power to Energise CR1A initiating Switchgear comes in on A1 and through the coil, exiting A2 to Earth." That's technically not what it does, but it's how people conceive it does so that's how it's explained. They could have "Special Bersion" all over that diagram!

"HORDAR" -- like RADAR but for Hoardes... I was often accused of having a similar gift when deployed to The Philippines, Thailand, or Korea...

Not wanting to appear too jaded but has the buyer come looking for his deposit back? Is is possible the buyer was the advance man for the thieves, checked the car out really well and then gave them all your information to go pick it up. His "deposit" would effectively defer suspicion from him, especially if he became insistent on refund (sort of like the guys in the 93 WTC Bombing who reported their Ryder Rental Stolen after the detonation, and got upset when Ryder wouldn't release their deposit to them...) It's a sad note, but I'd wonder if the police were looking at that angle, and snooping around the buyers environs for parts showing up...

I must agree with that... everybody I talked to kept asking me 'OOOOH Paris, Paris Paris!' My stock response was "I pissed on the Opera House at 2:30AM one night, and that was the high point!" The surrounding countryside was more to my liking. I never have much liked big cities, but the provinces. "Paris' sights were great, Paris was great, if it wasn't for Parisians!" HAHAHAHA

The biggest thing to learn is take your time buying a car and these types of situations will be avoided. If you think this is "belittling" people, you indeed have some issues that go beyond rationalizing the purchase as you seem intent on doing. All you may say may be true. Then again, maybe there was a reason it was priced "so good"! Impatience and Imprudence go hand in hand, it's only through frank assessment in retrospect will you learn that lesson. Carry on, have fun, keep us posted on what you did to get it running. I will watch intently. I think the thread has actually turn into something useful for others ... The first line of this post is the wisdom to take. The progress of this thread is the validation of that lesson.

"but the leaning issue I had was actually attributed to boost spikes in the wastegate which has been addressed" How was that missed through all that? No boost gauge?

GM TBI has been adapted to just about anything. It's a matter of simply making a plate adapter for the TB to mate to the 4 BBL hole on your manifold, and getting the sensors plumbed up and running it. They worked nicely on Corvairs, but a lot of guys liked using the L28EFI as it was a higher HP rating and seemed to work better on the 140horse Vairs. I figure on the 110's and 95's stock would work OK>

There is a Hoarde of Parts up for sale? Huh? Where... I just heard "Hoarde" ... What?

We are 'not being helpful'... An ounce of prevention...

I don't understand it. It's defective genes, and a sure endorsement for retroactive eugenics. I live in a VERY poverty stricken place. I see hunger driven crime. This is not that. The people that do this are defective, and need culling from society "with extreme prejudice"!

Electramotive PAFZZBLEND Software...miraculous! Nothing added from Feature Bloat, MS1 with MS-n-Se worked fine for me!

"Plus who has a week to analyze the car they are about to purchase." A well-seasoned car buyer who doesn't want to waste months or perhaps years fixing someone else's abortion. You seem to have done well buying in Haste. Try it my way next time and you could be driving trouble-free right now! As you kinda said "Live and Learn"--this is one of those times. Choose to learn from the wisdom laid down or don't. I don't care one way or the other, it's your money and your time! You obviously have more of both than I do!

^^^^Yep^^^^

That's a good baseline for an L28.

As John Says "Below 8500" -- even Electromotive allowed triggering off a distributor driven wheel up to that point. And we were fine with our L28 running that setup. But when we went L20A and were going....uh... "Above 8,500" we started experiencing misfires using the distributor trigger. It was not from the 'slop' per-se but more of a Pulsweidth/Waveform issue as the resolution was not sufficient for even the superfine diameter Mag Pickup we used. By going off the crank the bigger wheel gave better resolution. By notching the flywheel on it's outer diameter would would likely have gotten even better! For guys looking for a rebuilt distributor...why buy the 257$ Autozone reman, when for about $500 you can get a totally NEW distributor, proper bearings, and programmable spark if you so desire? Really if $200 is that big a deal in your build that you can't wait to raise that money (ESPECIALLY if you have triples!) you should reconsider the choice of hobbies! A distributor recurve really helps on triples for sure. This is something (the 123) that you can make a run, change, make a run, change.... try THAT with Mechanical Weights! It's the same process, but unless you precut your weight selection and have a spare dizzy to swap while still strapped down to the dyno...it takes a lot longer!

They are pin designations, there was a section somewhere to show you how to determine pin position... something using the locating tab up, then top left to right, then next lower row left to right, etc.... That is a nice redraw. Definitely something worthwhile to be sure! I got a real manual and they're blurry!

Crankfire or COP really only makes a measurable benefit if you have an EMS that integrates it. If you are running carbs, chances are good you wouldn't ever encounter a situation where the plugs need the extra juice a COP system can provide because of all the available charge time. The DIS can fire off some horribly tuned fueling, and so everything seems much better after install...but that was more a function of just being able to get it lit. Big enough single coil or CDI and that can happen with a single as well. You give no specific application, so there's really no way to answer it that "yes, maybe, no" -- for the build on the signature if that XDI is similar to HPV then I wouldn't change if it's working.

Or if far enough you never hit it at all... The prime thing you take away adding a cage inside the existing crash structure of the unit body.

"Reasonable"? It's CHEAP! Now whether that means "inexpensive" or "cheap" remains to be seen. "Reasonable" for a quality system replicated here in the USA is about $800-1,000. Beware of the mind warp.