Tony D

Made yet ANOTHER run (18+ hour day) to San Mig Valenzuela...and didn't get to look at the Multicab in Caloocan I wanted to on Friday. I will be up for a MEETING (not work...er... at least a meeting is not work in my book...) and may have some time on this coming Wednesday. If LBC would deliver the damned boxes, I got a turbo for my Suzuki that I would install and then drive up myself freeing up a lot of time for visiting! I'll sms you on the way up. The company I assist is near the Festival Mall in Filinvest, Muntinlupa Alabang... I loiter there near noon on these days, and near 5 as well. I gotta get my LTO done up in QC as well... so there should be some opportunity to get you some information. Not Mine:

Fishtank for Sharks with Laser Beams on their freakin' heads in the spare tire well, with a flip down plate so they can act at tailgunners in case of hot pursuit.

Some of us long for the days when the cigarette smoking counterman would turn the catalog stand around, and say "Pull up a stool and have at it!" No guff about what it was for, or what it came from, I need X dimension, and Y dimension...oh, you got one in back, lets take a look and see if I need to order in some more! I had a regional place like that, had to drive 30-45miles to get there... but were known for literally having "ONE" of everything from EVERY hardware catalog they had on the store counter. The salesmen would come in with an 'additions sheet' and they would simply sign off on it. Everybody in the area knew if you needed to SEE if something fit, you could go there, check it, and make the order. At that time, this backstabbing crap didn't occur nearly as much as it does now. If you screwed them on the part after seeing it fit, chances were good the next time "nope, someone must've bought that one for a sample"... The honorable thing was if you were going to use their stock to test, you at least bought the sample at retail and went where you could get it cheaper. You gave them SOMETHING for their having it on-hand...

I don't have one... I have a 71 S30S A 76 GS31S A 77 GS31L A 78 HS130 (Black) A 78 HS130 (White) A 79 GHS130 (Black) I know of countless others. The talk of them hyped as being "one of six in the USA" is unverifiable at best, an ignorant lie masquerading as a boast...(save for the case of the 432, and yeah...I coulda bought one and brought it back in 89...the story of that Homer Moment is on here in the archives...)

I would disagree that the head mods are 'over-engineering' --- it might be with low specific output engines (under 300HP), but over 300HP output, even Nissan changed the way the head flowed water. If you're running in 80F with tarmac (cooling airflow) temperatures under 110F, that's a totally different environment and cooling requirement than the desert southwest and 80F with tarmac temperatures of 160F+. Remember what was done in the USA to racing vehicles was the result of private teams and budgets not equivalent to works racers doing the job for Nissan Directly. Both the LY Head, and the FIA Head have significantly different flow patterns (the FIA head, like John Coffey says, is Up, Over to the Left, and out, while the LY Head reverses that flow coming out the Intake side on the Right...carrying exhaust heat to the 'cold' side of the head.)--arguably they can be said to bring water 'from the bottom to the top and out' rather than try to move it forward from the back of the engine inside the head. I cited the examples of the 5-minute pulls and stable oil temperature (without an oil cooler) as an example of what the benefits of proper cooling flow to the head can accomplish without adding significant weight and complexity to the oil system. Ask any expert if you "need" an oil cooler on an L-Series making 475HP... What if the oil temperature stays stable and below 230 no matter what you do? If someone sees his temperature rise, and then go back down during short spurts of activity...that technically I suppose means the cooling system is sized 'correctly' -- or one could say 'marginally' as well. Seeing elevate quickly and then remain at steady temperatures for extended pulls means the system has reached eqilibrium. It would take less than a minute to reach the max temp on the pulls, then it stayed there. There was 'reserve'. The one thing the Electramotive people steered us toward no matter what we asked about and thought our problems were was "we never had a DNF for a cooling problem", and as we worked on the cooling, it seems all the other problems took care of themselves. Over-engineering? I don't agree. "Big Picture Engineering" might be more like it. Again, over 300HP. All it does on anything below that is 'give margin' IMO, which is a good thing.

I did not experience this whatsoever. I punched out my Nissan Studs, and pulled the Nismo 350Z Long Studs into the 260 Hub with the lug nuts. There formerly was only one long stud part number 240/260/280Z so I can't reconcile not having to drill out my hubs, as the originals were tight tight tight. I'm dealing in Nissan Parts here, no aftermarket stuff. Are you saying the ARP studs are that size? I would say finding out the original interference tolerance is key to determine which reamer to use to open up the holes incrementally. I would not use a drill for <0.050" hole increase... that's reamer time. To the OP, my point was "parts is parts" it has absolutely nothing to do with having an L-Engine in the car. It has to do with using Chevy Parts in a Datsun when the parts you don't have aren't available through the OEM. If the ARP Studs are the same size as the NISMO 350Z studs, they should fit exactly like the NISMO 350Z studs. Same as Doorman 350Z Studs, same as Lawson 350Z Studs...etc etc etc... Hence "Same for Vendor Crosses"... NISMO, ARP, Doorman, Lawson are all vendors, and they all have a cross-reference for that part ("Vendor Crosses")

Euro Turbo Cars do not have an AAR, they use the same Idle Speed Screw that the NA cars use.... It's what I did with mine. Alternately, if you hook the AAR directly to manifold vacuum, it seems to give great anti-stall on drop-throttle. Had one out there since the late 90's set up like that. If you have a replacement AAR, or one from a Z31 (they are identical) there is a small screw and locknut which can be used to hold the AAR Pintle open a set amount to prevent stalls. The originals did not have that, it was incorporated into the Z31 AAR, and was used on later replacement 280ZX AAR's Get the pintile high, then back the screw out until the idle comes down where you want it, and lock it down. The Fast-Idle AAC I replaced with a simple solenoid and calibrated bleed. This is how Suzuki does it for their fast-idle and Air Conditioner idle-up. It's easily hooked into your AC Clutch line to bump up the idle when it engages. More options...

The float bowl equalization tube is in the throat of the carb up front by the choke plate.

Just a note from the dyno test sessions JeffP and I were doing on the engine dyno. We were running 5 minute pulls at 475HP level. Our goal was to see what the oil temperature did. We, as well as the dyno operator were amazed that without the oil cooler, the temperature rose linearly, and stabilized relatively early in the pull, never really getting any higher than 240F in the sump at the sensing point of the Nissan Comp Oil Pan. From those pulls, Jeff decided an Oilstat was in order. If you get the cooling flow to the head correct, it really helps stabilise the oil temps, FWIW

I used mine as an ersatz line-lock. Rolled into staging and stopped using the ebrake...throttled up clutched in, and at the appropriate time clutch dumped and dropped the brake. Really consistent times. Worked for me. I can see how using it to make boost would work as well...but it's gotta be he'll on the clutch!

I have 350Z Nismo Long Studs on my 260Z. You buy the set, and have four spare studs (5-Lug vs 4-Lug) Awesome benefit, huh? My Thermostats are bought at Autozone for my "1962 Chevy Biscayne Two Door Powerglide, 160F" 54mm thermostat out of a Chevy works same as a 54mm thermostat out of a Datsun. Same for Vendor Crosses.

That is a ZS model you chopped up there, lightest of the S30 L-Powered models. Most don't know S from L... Value is hit or miss. I usually peg the value at $1,000 over what a comparable LHD model would run IF someone was looking for an RHD model. I've had them given to me...

Mig, Ended up running straight from NAIA to San Miguel in Valenzuela (Polo Brewery), back to S&R in Alabang, and then onward to the house in Lucena. Likely I'll be up in Manila next week sometime. I can SMS you then... There is a Comp Catalog, it was sometimes referred to as "The Yellow Book"--I have a copy in the USA. But still have plenty of stuff on the laptop proving the 71 G-Nose was available as production homologated in 1971.

That was covered in Post #7

Errrr.... I just noticed your location.... ahhhhh.... Kumusta ka - I'm thinking my LBC Box of goodies duty may have just doubled! I do have the original 71 ZG Sales Brochure...alas it's in Los Angeles. Arriving NAIA tomorrow from SIN - PR510 at 10:20... Globe 0917 647 1801 We should get together and conspire! I got a lot of my backup documentation with me on two archive drives--I needed to make a similar presentation to the SCTA Sanctioning Board when our S30 was protested by a competitor. I got plenty of Japan-Racing Photos archived with a lot of the G-Nose Stuff. Bring a thumb drive! Will likely be back up to get a China Visa in the next couple of weeks. It would be easier if BI got me my damned ACR I card! (Been waiting since MARCH!) Otherwise I will lounge around the place in Lucena until someone wants me somewhere else to do some work. Or, if I decide to go back up to LTO in Cavite and fight with them about my Multicab registration... That will kill a few days! Salamat, po!

Just look at the FIA Group 4 Homogolation papers. Nissan had Porsche 930 CV joints on the FIA cars...

Technically that hose routing is not correct if you look how they routed the LD... It should come from a a pressure point, and go on out to the radiator through the lower thermostat housing I believe... I haven't looked at my LD in a long while to see how it was actually run...but if it's working... Incidentally that is very similar to the oil cooler they put on the Suzuki Every and Carry/Scrum F6A Turbo Engines... 657cc's of ripping power! That thing is ALWAYS on-boost (at least when I'm driving!)

That's because you have to be a donating member, and doing this is a violation of site rules, likely to get a stern reprisal... I'd suggest you pull the post on your own, before someone does it for you...

"Budget Stroker" is like "Military Intelligence" "Fair Government" or "Free Lunch" right?

I know the Orange Z they discuss in the article, I sent them to the owner. The owner got a floor pan from me in exchange for the 74 2+2 he didn't want because of Smogging Requirements. Of course, in December of that same year, they lifted the testing requirement... D'OH! I happily watch the price of "Condition 7" Cars in the collectors guide. If I can even get 1/2 what they say a rolling, complete, running 'parts car in need of a total restoration' is worth...I'll be happy!

What Visual Component Failed? It will say on your test.

Ahhhh, it's manual outside the passenger compartment---that is what I refer to as a "Heater Control Valve"... On some cars there is what Americans refer to as a "Tap" which is a valve on the bottom fitting of the block which you can disable the heater so no matter what you do to the Heater Control Valve, no water is going to the circuit. They existed mostly outside the USA. It's a holdover from delicate Heater Cores that may not like all that pressure on them and could leak at any time...so you block the source of pressure and run 'suction pressure' from the water pump inlet on it all the time (at most 13-16 psi, whereas pressure in the block can be 40-60 psi in some cases!) Now I know Ozspeak!

All S30's had a manual antenna switch in the console with the tuning bezel. No S30, anywhere in the world came from Nissan with a power antenna that reacted when the radio was turned on or off, Dealer or port options may have changed that, but the switch is a MOM switch up or down. The defroster switch was a simple SPST Rocker. The standard S30 Factory Radio with standard switch. The 280ZX Rocker Switch (yeah, not even the S130 had auto antenna...)

I know the owner of HS30-00059 just contacted me for that same link. Now the story with that one is that it's a "72"...(Alan...) and was purchased in Japan imported after hitch was over. The US Governmental mindset does not work well with the rest of the world regarding production date as most countries try to have steady legislation regarding autos, and don't change them every year making "when" the bolts were screwed together a legally binding contract that says an idiot who doesn't check his tyre pressure will be protected from Darwining himself due to warning lights or ignition interlocks mandated by government edict on such-and-such a date!

Need to have good ground path, charging wire, and sensing wire to have an IR Alternator work correctly. If you got voltage drop on the sensing wire the reg will boost output to get 13.8 on that sensing wire whenever possible.