Tony D

I'm not quite sure that is what that photo really is, are you sure that is not a photo of a 2+2 with the rear seat out? That's what the 1/4 Window looks like... It might be a coupe though, I don't recall the 2+2 having that kind of wheel well intrusion so it may well be a coupe.

Aviad should be able to make one--they started with new Nissan Pans and altered accordingly. The internet is full of kids who will read this and not get the sarcasm when not appended with the '#sarcasm off' hashtag... It's the same crowd who explains how "Freeze Plugs save the block if it gets too cold! #Sarcasmoff"

JeffP has both stock ZXT Pistons, and Pistons cut to match the P90 on his 3.0. He could probably expound on the differences in what amount of Methanol / Ignition Advance he was running on the two different setups. I know on C16 he was making 475RWHP with the L28ET GT35R 17psi with his combination of head/cam/etc

Yeah, those pistons look a lot like the items in our SCTA Engine, and it was 14.75:1... Cool you got in touch with the builder, you will get some cool archival info there! Super-Cool!

REMOVING a serial number is illegal. Remanufactured Engines MUST retain the serial number they were imprinted with from the manufacturer. I don't know of a SINGLE reputable remanufacturer who does ANYTHING to the engine numbers --- most simply attach a reference plate of their own configuration to identify their work for warranty purposes down the road (usually with a solder-melt rivet that goes away if you overheat the engine!) Requirements in CA are that you have a source document to prove the origin of every major component replaced during and engine swap / rebuild, etc. All dismantlers in CA are required to provide you this documentation when you purchase the components. Yes even PYP...there is a small sign stating if you wish the documentation, to make it known. They will get the VIN from the vehicle and give you official documents to present to the DMV to register the engine swap you did. This is required to be recorded to update the DMV record and title. I'd say 98% of the replaced engines out there in CA now are 'illegal engine swaps' to the letter of the law. The 2% that aren't are people who have collector status by the CVC and are not required to report engine swaps until such time as the vehicle is sold. It's all online.

DEFINE 'grind off the serial numbers'.... There ARE Nissan Service Replacement Blocks out there without serialised numbers on them. I know of at least 2 in early one-owner 240Z's. Ground off serial numbers are one thing. Not having them altogether is another if it's a service replacement block. Anything sold before 1981 is pretty much wide-open. CHP has a hard time enforcing on non-residents.

Detonation, that one piston will be $100...+ Check #3 closely, it was doing the same thing and was on the way to the boom parade. Imagine that, #5...'as usual'!

"something about the amplification signal provided by the booster" I thought that was what I said....

Oh, by 'cam come on' I mean you are going what you think is gangbusters making all the good noises and suddenly as you cross 4,000 (or in our Bonneville 2 Liter, 6,500) the back end gets squirrely as the wheels start slipping as the power REALLY starts being put out in earnest. our driver in the 2 liter said "yeah, I thought this isn't anything...until that thing hit 6,500, then it was like 'holy hell this thing is pulling harder than my L28 on a 75 Nitrous Shot!' and the back end is all over the place and the next thing I know the shift light (9,500) is flashing and I shift, and it starts all over but since it only dropped 1,000 rpms it's just pulling harder!" Like That...

That's a big part of it. Carburetors need vacuum to work, whereas EFI not so much. Our bonneville engine wouldn't idle below 2200 rpms with one carburettor, and 1700 with another set. Change over to ITBS from TWM and an Electromotive EFI and the thing would idle at 450 rpm if we wanted, and even with the tilton multi disc, it would idel smoothly at 900 if we so chose. But you touched the pedal, sneezed on it, and the engine went from idle to 4500. Like John said, it 'came on' above 4000 rpms. With the lightweight flywheel it was hard to get moving. Pushing it in the staging lanes at the drags kept it from overheating the slipper discs. It's not meant for smooth engagement. But a nice heavy mcloed and a 15# flywheel with decent inertia ring, while it will soften the violent acceleration you would get with the multi-disc would tame the engagement and movement on the street. It would be 'mushy' below 3500/4000 rpms. This is why the L4 makes for such a nice turbo grind when set on the right LCA and opening event... your boost comes on well below where the cam comes alive, and the 2-3 psi you get by going WOT helps torque and breathing down low to make it streetable and on boost you're already pulling hard when the cam comes on and you go "oh sh*t!" the third time! Fourth time is when you pass 7,000 and it's still pulling, and you thought Turbos died off at 5,500!... But I digress.... The car will feel mushy below that point, mostly because of how hard it pulls starting there. You will still have more power than the stock engine at that point because of better compression...it just FEELS slower. Curiously, driving it like this, nobody refers to it as "Camshaft Lag" like they do when they lug a turbo engine... again I digress... Generally that is why they are 'unstreetable' --- get a tractable Alpha-N Blend EFI on them, and a decent weight flywheel with good marcel and facing to allow a smooth start and you can get the car moving. Especially if it's geared properly. You need the right gear, and that may be a 4.38... big exhaust (like John C says) will take some effort to not attract attention.

I found the mileage to be pretty darned linear. I got 27 mpg at 55-60, and it tapered down to 19 at 100 consistently on the freeway. You can't drive in the city and expect these kind of mileages. In town, 17 is about right.

BTW, the Vinyl Top was a port or Dealer Option. I bought a white with Maroon Vinyl Top 73 240Z for parts after an accident. I can deal with the two-tone on those lines. But the Vinyl....'abomination' comes to mind! LOL If it's in good shape, it's worthy of keeping, but if it's peely.....KILL IT! KILLLLLLLL IT! hahahaha

"Bass Boat" or "Bass Master Z"? The Compton Z-Posse had a purple metalflake Fairlady Z in it that was similar. "Bass Boat" hahaha, yeah, that's about the only place you will find flake like that outside of a Sno-Globe these days! LOL

It's amazing how the first question asked... the one that would shed obvious light was totally ignored. I mean, really guys... You've told us everything but what we asked!

Remember, it's not BOOST that makes horsepower, it's FLOW. Both TimZ and I are discussing compressor sizing for providing sufficient Pounds-Per-Hour to accomplish a set equation for production of fuel combustion at a specific Brake Specific Fuel Consumption rate... How much horsepower you want determines how much fuel you need, and how much fuel you have determines how much air you want. But properly porting the head, running the right cam, etc, as JeffP has demonstrated, it is possible to produce MORE horsepower at LOWER boost than a previous iteration on the same or even smaller engine! Get the air into the engine efficiently and "boost" is not necessarily required. The 2-3 psi at WOT before threshold on Jeff's car makes the engine pull like a much larger displacement due to aid in pumping efficiency. "Boost is merely a reflection of resistance to flow." I do not ascribe to the Corky Bell 'throw boost at it' school of Turbocharger Application. Properly build the engine as you would for an N/A and you will be rewarded with the same high-rpm surge and rush of power as the original N/A and not something like a big-block Corvette. I've been in Z31's that were boosted to 600+ HP and they were like big block Corvettes (or maybe a Chevelle, something big) with a shift point at maybe 6,300...or worse a power peak at 5,500 or 5,800. I much prefer that rush to redline that pulls hard from onset of boost to 7,500+... and to get there, you have to flow! Once you flow properly, you can tolerate a MUCH larger compressor on the engine than you normally ever would. Search here for "Big Phil" and his L-Series GT35R application issues. Mismatched and took a lot of sorting to work out. I'm saying the engine is a package...you just don't buy the parts and have them assembled. What are your power goals and how do you want the power to come on? THAT will determine what turbo you want to use more than anything else. Cheers!

Either will work. The GT35R or X is a smaller Turbo, and will spool quite a bit earlier due to the availability of both 0.63 and 0.82 A/R Turbine Housings. Really, it's where you want to run the car, some people will want boost (hard boost) delayed until a higher rpm/speed to control traction, and then pull to a higher rpm for higher top speed. The GT35X hopefully will allow the engine to make full boost from 3,200 to 8,000 with enough air . . . Jeff will have to determine where his Power Peak Occurs (as Tony Echoes again 'make a run at 8psi to see where your peak happens...) and then determine what boost the turbo will end up making for peak efficiency and power at that power peak. It may make 25psi all the way to 7,800...which would make Jeff happy. Maybe only 17psi.... Obviously the GT42X works on an L28, as TimZ is doing it as well. It all depends on your horsepower goals and where you want your power to be. For a street car having power available at 3,200 is very nice. Incidentally, JeffP formerly had a TO4 on that engine which came on hard at 3,000. Problem was it was like a switch, the engine went from 150HP at 2800, to 450HP at 3000. It was hard to control. Now, on a smaller displacement engine (L28, instead of a 3.0 liter) the engine with better porting and cam is making much more horsepower BEFORE hard boost comes on, and is far more controlable. Much to Jeff's chagrin, he is making more horsepower and torque on a bone-stock L28ET bottom end and all his bolt-ons at 17psi than when he had his car featured in the magazine at 28psi and 6,800 rpmps (475 vs 450rwhp) The 3.0 makes even more, but due to the GT35R being slightly low in flow capability, tops out above 600hp. The GT35X should either bump that by 100, or at the least allow the car to pull cleanly at some boost level all the way to it's power peak which should be around 7,800 rpms. It will be at that point that Jeff will curse me for suggesting he should buy a GT42X because he now lives 'at altitude' in Reno Nevada, has cooler air, lower density, and needs the additional flow the GT42 Compressor provides. Thing is, Jeff is STILL running a 3" exhaust on a fully equipped S130, so it all fits and can be fitted to ANY S130 Car out there in similar fashion. His goal was to prototype a solution for an HONEST 500HP setup anybody could replicate. He's done that, but isn't finished because now it's a 600HP system. If you haven't looked yet, his "Extreme 280ZXT" website at Angelfire has a lot of photos to show what he's done to make parts for the car, and to fit the larger turbos to the engine bay. PERSONALLY, I think High-Boost may be out of the question for your 3.2. It's a thin wall you have there in the cylinders, and if the block wasn't sonic tested before boring, you may be courting disaster if you detonate with a metal head gasket. This was common in Japan ages ago. Generally, high boost turbos are best used on thick cylinder walls. Usually nothing more than 3.0 liter strokers for best longevity. A lower boost turbo on a 3.2 will still make prodigious power, with less chance of "going boom"--but you won't necessarily NEED a GT42 to do that flow. As TimZ states, depending on your chassis, a 125mm exhaust pipe from the engine back can be an issue for packaging!

"I didn't want an all out powerhouse of an engine....instead, I wanted a responsive one." That is a confusing statement. Can you expound on that a bit? Torquey?

Those are not Carillo Rods, those are weight-balanced stock Datsun Rods. With the carbs and that flywheel, likely that would not be a streetable combination. The L4 Cam is not that radical, I know people with L4's on the street today. I would agree with what you found, our L4 peaks at 7,800 as well. It IS a streetable cam with a 11-15# flywheel and conventional pressure plate on it, those it will tone down the hair-trigger response of the throttle from the low-inertia clutch assembly... ITB's or EFI would likely make that cam idle easily at 900rpms. On carbs, 1,000-1,300. Lower with 40's than with 45, 48 or 50's. It's not really needing 50's for power, 44's would be nice though. The head is a nice piece from Slovers, and the prep work looks proper for what it is. I doubt the block was done at Slovers, it's not their bag. It's conventional prep work, and my suspicion would be that "Trident Engineering did the block and farmed the head out to Slovers. It's common, they're good on the L-Heads. It's strange that the crank pulley has the dry sump drive on it, and you have the pan...but not the pump and accompanying components. Usually you just don't 'swap over' from dry to wet sump like this... Generally on a Dry Sump the vent in the side of the block is plugged, yours has the tube. Probably there was some parts laying around that they threw in, and the pulley made its way onto the block... The filter rarely is on the block with a Dry Sump, and the in-block passages are not used on the suction side at all. You are correct, the crank is a Nissan unit, likely balanced with the rod and reciprocating assembly you have on it. That should be fine to over 8,500 rpms. It was on our car. There's another engine with all I describe (but 14.75:1 Compression) up for sale in Clairmont right now... Your head gasket is blown, likely it detonated and it's possible the ring lands cracked. A compression check would tell. But to do that you have to pull the head to fix the gasket...just as easy to dump the piston on the blown cylinder and inspect at least that one closely before any reassembly. Determine compression ratio, and if you want to run it on the street, likely you will have to cut the domes on the pistons. I would be surprised if they aren't pop tops. Welded E88 Chambers will only get you so much on flat tops.

I take it this is for the 95A Rated Capacity of the 90-95 Maxima Alternator? I have been doing parts catalog searches as some Bosch replacements come without a pulley...this same alternator is supposed to fit 'bolt in' on the Suzuki F6A Turbo I have in my Van (though with 657CC's powering the alternator will likely be all it can to at full output! 1.3 KW on a 47KW Engine...) The later Zukis came with a 6 Rib Belt, and I fear the discussions I have been reading have been geared around the later belt system, and not the V-Belt on my Van, and on our Z's. The key seems to be a special nut with an offset clamping surface, and spacer for behind the pulley. Making one on a CNC should be child's play if the dimensions can be finalized, and then proper thread engagement / clamping can be accomplished, and the pulley will fit correctly. Come to think of it, with a lathe, you could make a nice pulley for the thing with the step already in there so you don't need a spacer! I digress... Will watch to see what you guys come up with, and likely will be buying a new unit from an Auto-Parts Store 'blind' this week to pack in my suitcase along with the two Crane XR700's, valve stems, and various other parts that have been flooding our Corporate Shipping Dock in PA this past week in anticipation of my arrival for the annual Self-Criticisim and Large Character Painting Ritual.

Holes not pre-existing in panels is not really a gold-standard of identification on a finished vehicle. Fairlady Z's didn't have rear marker lights and if you federalize properly, afterwards they do! I'd be more prone to look at contours of the two with similar reference objects in sight (like lug bolt pattern) so you can make a scaling grid and compare. People always wonder why the iPhone is sitting on this or that in my Nikon-Taken Photographs. Because it is high-contrast object with a defined edge, and with a given screen illuminated has a nice scaleable grid on it. Makes for reconstructing field piping and the like very easy. Same goes for fenders and their contours.

Nothing exists in the USA. Maybe Japan, but I doubt it. Custom Sheetmetal Fabrication is the next step. As someone who has seen how much you have to cut out of a standard sump to make a Comp Pan Fit, "moving the engine back" is not quite correct. "Notch the Firewall, Move the Engine Back, Shorten the Driveshaft 2", Alter the rear Transmission Mount/X-Member and Shift Lever" would be more correct. One does not simply "move back" the engine to clear those pans the way they are contoured. Cutting the pan and rewelding is possible. Ask anybody who thought the Nissan Comp Pan would fit in an S130! Different animals altogether...

I don't think it's ignition related at all, more likely some sort of Alarm interface. There would be no use putting multiple lights on a Reluctor Amplifier, and also a buzzer to beep, nor a battery. I'm curious where the wires go to...since it was removed and it all "still works" telling us where the wires were connected would give us an idea on what it actually was doing. It's a programmable EEPROM on there, so it may have had higher function ECU tweaking, but again, finding it in the center console instead of nearer to the ECU kind of throws that out---as well as only having two wires on it... An O2 sensor tweaker would have no need for a beeper or internal battery source. Because a device simply has three LED's on it doesn't confer any similarity other than there are three LED's. Note the MS are all red. They indicate status of different circuits. Yours are Red Yellow and Green, indicating a 'good warning caution' sort of progression. Something checking one variable. Any Crank Trigger or CDI I ever dealt with rarely had one warning of failure light, if that. Input devices give a go-nogo again only needing one LED. My curiousness surrounds what it was connected to in the vehicle. Anything else is wild supposition, and likely incorrect.

Another thing that gave me pause was the thought that you adjust your idle screws by AFR. I am ready to curse the readily available AFR Gauges as a bane on automobile DIY'ers. Adjust your idle according to the Mikuni Specs, not the AFR and some magic number. When adjusted properly, see where your AFR resides. It's a secondary check, not a primary. Adjusting carbs based on it... is wrong and I think you are causing more problems than you are solving doing this. Instrumentation can be great if you know what you're looking at, but it can run you down the wrong path if you aren't thinking about what you are seeing. I watched JeffP redo his entire fueling map several times as for some reason it kept getting lean and lean and lean. As shown by the AFR on the Dyno and his WBO2. Then we would come back and it was pig rich and he was tearing his hair out. Put in the original program and it was fine again. Then why the change? Run on the dyno and it goes lean again. Repeat for better part of a day. Then realize, when he added 5 gallons of C16 it went pig rich. As he made pulls, it got hot and went lean because there was so little fuel in the tank. The Third set of Eyes at the Dyno picked up on that, and life was good afterwards. Don't get blinders (looks like you found some stuff you missed...so it's that intent concentration that leads to overlooking things, or chasing symptoms...) When in doubt, go back to Basics. Make SURE you have followed the intitial setup properly. When I come in to a guys place, and start, that's what I do. It confounds them sometimes...but generally when I'm done with setup, there are just a few really basic issues needing to be addressed, and the car is running considerably better when I arrived. Never skip the basics, and when in doubt, throw out your ego and like a noob reading it for the first time take out the book...and go step-by-step, one-by-one.

"But how does half a mikuni run rich?" The jets come loose and screw themselves out...or fall out the bottom. Twisted Shaft will cause synch issues. They have a penchant for that when the idle stop is backed out too far and overzealous throttle application is done---the carbs slam shut, then you slam them back open...but the throttle plates are actually cut on an angle to close very tightly on the bore and they can stick. Upon opening, one will stick, the other move freely, and at the edge of the slot for the plate the shaft torsion has a peak and it twists. I can't count how many twisted shafts I've seen! Very common. Those are my two top guesses on quick perusal of the OP. Let's see what everybody else said now...

Likely someone with Porsche (er...VW...) knowledge was applying that to these in an effort to achieve the same thing. When you can't buy it...you MAKE it!