Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Someone e-mailed me a screenshot of the pricing schedule... Maybe on this iPad. Meh.
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Yep, give your CC details first!...THEN see event pricing!
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Share your calendar if you go to Asia Pacific... our office in KL is not far from Sepang. And the hotel I stay at in Banchang is close to Bira Circuit... And there's people on here a stone's throw from Eastern Creek in Blacktown just outside of Sydney!
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I don't think about impressing honeys. If I wanted to do that I'd buy a completed pimped Civic and go troll Torrance...
I think about AC/DC at 2AM on a Sunday morning, shifting into the next higher gear and rolling on the boost with a montage from the original "Wangan Midnight" heading into the tunnel. The ceiling fan in the garage giving the requisite fluttered lights effect to take me to Daikoku Futo and that run against the Blackbird...
Forget honeys... I want speed...
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The culling of the big MSA event was to funnel more people to the ZCON.
Yeah, that worked well for everybody, huh?
In 2004 when it was in LA, MSA was full bore and both events set record attendance. MSA the last week in APRIL, ZCON in early JUNE. (hmmmmmmm)
In Phoenix and Las Vegas, both events were well attended.
It's two different groups of people that attend.
A good indicator of this was that the 'Convention Hotel' was FULLY BOOKED before internet registration for the ZCON was even OPEN on Jan 1!
Those same 250 people will come no matter what, trying to force more attendance by restricting events not controlled by the ZCCA IMO is not the way to get more attendees.
Curiously, you will note that ZCCA is now hosting an 'East Coast Nationals' this year. So much for the 'it dilutes attendance' excuse...huh?
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12+12=24
using 20, you will be slightly slack (0.004") so you will have even less life in the new chain set you are using.
using 30 you will be slightly tight, but the chain will stretch as you run it in just giving more life than you would otherwise get.
On that kind of shave, I'd go for the 30's.
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Some of us bought cars 20 years ago with plans, and contently sit knowing when the rest of the BS is over, the cars will be there, waiting...
Like Ice Cream on a hot summer's day! Suddenly you have all the time in the world to do what you want, and the means to do it.
7 years? Pfft! I bought a car in AZ in 1991 and moved it to storage in someone's yard. In 1997 I finally had a place to store it, and went to go get it. The person where I stored it tolerated my one or two day appearances with this or that to bolt on in the intervening 6 years. I spent a whole elapsed time of about 25 hours over that six years...on what they considered a basket case.
But true to my word: That "Basket Case" DROVE out of the back yard, and ON TO MY TRAILER...
It moved to my place in CA. and sits even longer. As I pick parts, hoard parts... The killer to projects is not really money. Or parts availability. It's time.
If you don't get all spastic over ADDHD quick completion syndrome... and wait for the part you WANT to use to show up, and DO NOT start assembly until you have them ALL... You will be AMAZED how quickly the job goes!
Like moving that car out of the back yard in AZ...
Watch other people's projects. Waiting for this, waiting for that...need money for this need money for that, no time....
But if EVERYTHING is THERE. Already bought and paid for...all you need is TIME.
Frankly, the last time I got laid off, I was ecstatic! "I got TIME to put the 510 together!"
Unfortunately I poured my driveway at long last giving me a decent, level place to work not in the dirt...and damnit I got a job within two weeks.
And the rest, as they say, is history! 346+ days overseas last year. 280+ the prior two years. 250+ and 230+ in the years before that. And the days not overseas....going into the office in the USA. Leaving weekends few and far between!
It will end.
And then, I assemble.
7 years? PFFT!
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Reverse engineer it: if your bore is limited to 89mm, what stroke does it take to get 3.5L?
(Remember those story problems in high school....they actually had a point! Muahahahahaha!)
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"Third is get off you ass and work. Building these cars are not always easy and they require dedication and hard work. If you dont put the time in it will always be a pile of parts in the garage. Set small realistic deadlines. Work on it an hour a day. "
Some people don't have an hour a day, they wish they did, but don't. That statement is being a jerk. Just because you have free time, doesn't mean everybody does. And don't EVEN go there saying that to me in a retort...you've no clue!
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one BILLION RWHP....
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Is that Nishi-San? I know Car Shop Jalopy has them... Nice place, specialises in 432 and GT-R resto...
I will miss seeing them next weekend at Nostalgia 2-Days in Yokohama as I am both broke, AND working...
I also agree, a JDM car does not have FMVSS Compliant door pillar tags, nor a dash-mounted VIN tag (the finisher between the windshield and dashboard is not 'cut out' to reveal the VIN tag riveted to the dash substructure on North American Market Cars.
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Partner up with someone and buy a cheap pair of Hyundais or Kias secondhand....then go run along guardrails to see if sparks fly off like they do in a movie. Have a friend run alongside you on the freeway while you both exchange blows to the cars body with baseball bats and ball pein hammers. Do some bumper tag and see if you can get the other car to stall without stalling yourself. Run em backwards into a big oak tree and then drag the back end around until the tires blow. Pour gas all over it and spark it by a lonesome roadside and sit there crying until someone picks you up out of sympathy.
Try to keep a straight face the whole ride home.
Once you are in the door, you will be FULL of ideas and inspiration. I know it always worked for me!
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Why use tint film when you normally can order smoke grey 98% opaque! and variations therefrom?
Cops are confounded when it's dark glass, and not dark tint!
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I'm talking in T-series turbos...I don't have a need for a ball-bearing super-duper turbo to make 400HP. The T3/T4 hybrid I mentioned above will run you about 550$ ballpark brand new. Just ask for "A t3/t4 turbo with a stage 3 exhaust wheel and a T04B V-trim compressor" when you call the turbo shop of your choice. It will bolt directly to the exhaust manifold, If your stock nissan housing is machined to fit the larger exhaust wheel you can use the stock downpipe and wastegate actuator, and it does not interfere with the intake manifold or engine mounting. If you use a standard Garret-style housing, a 4-bolt flange downpipe would be needed and I would HIGHLY reccomend a 2.5" turn down, expanding up to 3" diameter before the second turn to get under the car for either turbine housing.
If you're going for the Bell approach, then this turbo isn't exactly the way to go...Go for a T04E series compressor and lay the boost to it.
If you Just Need a ball bearing turbocharger, then I would say the GT3071R is a very poor fit for what you plan. It doesn't get into the best islands till about 20lbs of boost and event then it's only flowing 32lbs/min...that's enough for 290 crankshaft horsepower, assuming a peak output at 12.5:1 AFR and a 0.5 BSFC. Not really perfectly realistic as it will be worse than that in the real world.
The GT3571R would do the same at only 15lbs of boost, which is MUCH more reasonable. At 18lbs of boost it's capable of about 330HP at the crankshaft, using the same assumptions above.
Looking at the T04B-V trim compressor, you can get 250HP at 12lbs of boost, and as much as 330HP at 23lbs of boost, and remain in the peak effienciency island the entire time. It's also far less costly.
To hit your mark of 330RWHP, we need 390 flywheel HP assuming a 20% drivetrain loss. I would look for a turbo compressor that can produce 45lbs/min of air at a pressure ratio between 2 and 2.25, and keep it on the island. You will need a cam and headwork to be able to sustain a compressor that can do this!
Looking at a T61 compressor map, we can easily hit 45lbs/min at 76% effeciency at a pressure ratio of 2.2, or about 18lbs of boost. Not bad...and probably do-able on pump gas. That's 340-350 RWHP capable.
A T70 compressor would also be more than capable. We're talking a 2% drop in peak effeciency between the GT series compressors and the T series compressors, but a 40% difference in price...
I think I just mentioned to someone the formulas for a 350hp L28 are on here ad nauseam...and here is a perfect example of step by step spooning!
I think I shall link him to this post!
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There are others as well...THAT ^ is much cool, very wow. I wonder how much it would be to get a plate made like that with correct oil and water passages for an L engine, then we could maybe use an LD crank and longer rods and get a large displacement maybe even close to the 3.4litres Rebello will be making?!
Making a crank, make it big don't restrict yourself to LD Stroke!
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If you read the back of the 76-newer S30 (Fairlady Z) you will see the blue green "NAPS" badge.
Though the Fairlady Z never came with the manifold. They came on sedans like Cedric, Gloria, & Leopard.
The Fairlady Z's came with the TB, it fits on the standard manifold as well...
What, when you hogged it out for your 60mm T/B you never wondered why it was teardrop shaped and not simply match-ported round???
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Buy guns! Go shooting.
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Like I said: for that HP goal! it's child's play to get 350 HP from an L28N/A or L28ET using a bone stock bottom end.
The money you spend is in the EMS, the turbo, and the head, in that order as it is possible to get 350 on a bone stock L28ET and just the first two.
But head work, and a cam? 380ft lbs at 4,500 rpms at 8.39psi of boost... Save money, intercooler not required! Methanol not required. Add either, and torque goes up, temperatures come down, and reliability increases. How dies that number sound on 87 octane pump gas? (Methanol and Headwork)...
This is ALL scrupulously detailed. The reason people want RB's is not from a power advantage standpoint. That's an excuse.
They want the "gee whiz" factor.
I know where a TC24B1 head is up for sale at just under $30,000.... An L-Series with that head bitchslaps just about any run of the mill swapped factory DOHC setup. It may not be a great setup, you may not make the power...but you got the look of "one of 12 made" and that trumps all in the genre of "Gee-Whiz, Lookit Me, I got a Badass Dee Oh Aych Cee!"
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200F with a 180 thermostat is about spot on for a CHTS. It doesn't looks like anything is wrong at all.
Run proper anti-boil, water wetter, and a good radiator cap.
If you run a 160 thermostat, it will be 160 at the thermostat housing, and about 20 degrees hotter when checked at CHTS point.
This is why it was chosen on Emissions Vehicles, it results in closed loop operation faster, and reduced emissions.
BEWARE on using newer thermostats in these cars. I recently was looking at the specs for a 2002 Vehcile with a 54mm thermostat. Normally I would say 'that would work' just like the old Chevrolet thermostats. But the specs were NOT compatible like old thermostats. Previously a thermostat would crack +/-5 degrees of the thermostat rating, and be fully opened by 10 degrees above that point (Fahrenheit). So on a 160 thermostat, it would crack some place between 155 and 165, and be fully opened by 170-175. (This would translate to 175-195 CHTS Monitoring Point Temperatures.) For the standard 180 thermostat, you would expect a similar range from 175 early crack to 195 late fully open. That would be normal operating ranges.
For this new 2002 unit in another vehicle, the thermostat was to crack at 195, and not be fully open until 215F!!!Same tolerance was stated +/- 5 F so you are looking at early crack at 190, and late fully opened at 220F, you BETTER have at LEAST a 16# cap, and pray as that would mean 240 at the rear of the head at the CHTS if you used that thermostat.
If you want to drop CHTS temperature, look at the cooling thread in FAQ stickies at the top of the forum. You can take that plug that used to go to the heater core, and run a 3/8" hardline around the back of the head, connecting it to the lower thermostat housing. That should drop your indicated CHTS by at least 5 if not 10 degrees F! You start a flow path from that 'dead spot' in the cooling system and get coolant flowing through there once the thermostat opens, making for considerably better temperature stabilization even on a stock engine.
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With as many people running 350HP on a stock L28 (me on the same 1977 L28 N42 N/A Engine since 1985) you would think people reading the forums would not be asking these questions.
It's all covered, ad nauseam...
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Just as reliable as a stock L28ET on a T3 running 5 psi.
Either one detonates, you bought the farm.
Same as on an RB26 with forged pistons and a $15,000 bottom end.
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Yes John, anybody asking why I left Michigan in 1984 and haven't looked back since will simply be referenced to this post as a prime example.
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What Isuzu Commonrail Turbodiesels exist? They are generally GM swap friendly. They're in Chevy Colorado trucks all over Asia.
123ignition system
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted · Edited by Tony D
The last is the reason I mentioned it here in the first place.
This is cost-competitive with having a distributor rebuilt and professionally recurved for the N/A crowd without any of the downside of using a mechanical advance mechanism. Anybody who ever re calibrated a vacuum advance can, cut the plate for advance or retard, cut the weights to alter the curve...and then made strap strap-down for a dyno run only to go "crap!" And pull it all apart to tweak this or that till it's all right will immediately appreciate turning knobs and simple laptop based tuning of the spark curve.
The forced induction benefits are obvious as stated already.
Sure beats a Unilite or a worn-out E12-80!