Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Jesus. Where did you pull this out of. What makes you think a Ford "stage 3" turbine housing bolts up to what is clearly a R33 Rb25det turbo?!
Because T3/T4 crap readily interchanges between brands?
And that was "JeffP" not "Jesus" who posted it...turn your autocorrect off.
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Well, I just googled it... I'll be damned if the GSA doesn't have BOTH documents in PDF format online and classified "not secure" and apparently downloadable...
I know what my Saturday afternoon is going to be spent downloading to my shockproof portable hard drive!
I recommend anybody considering maintenance work on high performance automobiles get a copy. It's a great basic step by step manual of the art of maintenance. 10RGL so any idiot should be able to follow it...I know I could!
Here is a link to the table of contents just to give you an idea of what is contained therein:
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You guys whine about that lock wiring?
Try lock wiring the fasteners to the JFS in any F15....
At least you could SEE the fasteners!
And it looks like you used 0.020 or 0.031 Monel wire.
You have in that transmission flange what is known in the business as a "close geometric pattern" and if you have some 0.041 Monel, I'm betting you could have saved HOURS of your safety wiring by utilizing a single strand of wire in there! (The F15 JFS fasteners are JUST outside of the range where that is permissible...)
I'd refer you to USAF T.O. 1-1A-15... But I don't know where civilians can access that.
In conjunction with NAVAIR/USAF T.O. 1-1A-8, you got a veritable treasure trove of work practices used to do everything automotive!
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Did you report this to the shipping company, and was it insured?
This is easily a shipping damage claim, where you can claim repair costs or outright replacement.
The postal service lost a LOT of stuff during Katrina and insurance paid out lots of claims.
But wouldn't the return cost be as much as you paid for it? Our wonderful freight department refused a crated set of compressor rotors DHL airfreight back to Kuala Lumpur and that was $440! (Actually cheap if you consider the size/weight!)
I agree this is repairable...but I would make a claim against the shipper to see what consideration you can get. That it was packed in cardboard and not properly crated they may tell you "pound sand" at which time I would consider asking the shipping/selling entity to work a replacement part or defray repair costs.
Asaluh m'lekum, it's not good business lah!
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Definitely not drivers, for sure, you just went in reverse! Those are non-safety bead rims. They "were" a hot ticket for 510's when Pre-65 Corvair rims offered a $5 swap to a 5" wide rim opposed to the Stock Datsun 4 1/2". They may fit...you can always reverse mount them for simple rollers.
In fact, my 60 Corvair has Datsun Steelies on it...
And my 66 Corsa runs on later model Corvette Ralleye Rims...
Those early 'Vair rims were not a hot ticket on Z's... But Z rims were in fashion on Vairs as it seemed nobody kept the steel wheels on their 240's!
That being said, I did run 13x7 rims with slicks on both my 240 and 280ZX. They BARELY fit, but offered considerable grip and width advantages over the stock Datsun Rims
Also turned my 3.90 gearset into about a 4.80 gearset by virtue of the 13-20X8.00 slicks on them!
If you thought your Z had "short" gears before....
They might be good for AutoX where you want to change the gear ratio, but you need a better rim width than 5" to get any advantage considering the 6 spoke Datsun Alloys are all over and are an inch wider!
With a safety bead on them.
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I'm just happy our Sydney Distributor helped me sit for my diesel fitters ticket...
Now it's possible I could go work for him on contract basis. Maybe 90-120 days a year.
But in Aussie Mining Camps at $50+ OT hourly plus perks...
I wouldn't have to work 341 days a year!
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Isn't all this in the Megasquirt Forum Section Archives and FAQ?
Holley Draw through fueled by the EFI pump with reducing return regulator to an eBay acquired SU manifold with a tube connecting the two, and maybe methanol or water injection... Stock distributor with MSD BTM ...
Easy Peasy Lemon Squeasy...
Around 250-275....
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If they have 8' Forks and a 5K or larger forklift, lifting it onto a flatbed is no great shakes. If they are going to "a dock" sounds like containerised transport.
This is done every day, and no damage occurs. In fact I'd say lifting your car with a scissors jack that came with it likely does more damage at this point!
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Illegal? I think a jury of my peers determines what's legal or not regarding my defence!
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What's your tolerance for travel?
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I'll add that CFR RINKENs, probably the worlds largest car shipper uses forklifts extensively with the attachments Imdescribe.
Most tow yards in LAVA as well.....
Using a forklift is industry standard...like I said before, but to restate more directly: some people live a sheltered life... There is nothing inherently wrong here....
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With extended forks a 5K forklift will be no different lifting it than any two,post garage lift would!
Most forklifts employed in car movement use a fork attachment similar to tow trucks that swivel to cradle the rear wheels....then lift them and drive the car from the rear with a. Locked steering column.
Fine if you can stand being driven from the rear,
Those afraid of this have never "seen the sausage being made"!
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The first scene is what hooks you "ohhhhh, been there done that!"
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Dude, DON'T LOOK THERE!
Get a computer (!) start searching Craigslistings in SoCal, AZ, NM, West Texas.... Then take a road trip.
The costs for the trip will be less than what you pay for a 'rust free' example of NY Iron... and cover the costs of your trip!
I bought a Truck in Canfield OH last year. Drove is cross country. Ford dealer here asked about the 'serious cancer' it had... Now, we are talking 'rust bubbles' on the rear wheel arch and corner of the cab. Deriguer in The Rust Belt...but in SoCal, that's like "PASS ON THIS ONE IT'S GOT CANCER"
When the ad is in Victorville and says "Surface Rust" it doesn't mean "New York Surface Rust" where the paint looks like it has acne, and there are perforations and the panel turned rust brown.... it means the sun had baked off the paint and from 40 years exposure it now has the look of a plumb-brown barrel on an old musket. If that...it may be down to factory primer and there are flecks of brown showing.
I got a 1958 L210 I just bought. It has been sitting in the guys back yard since 1972, and he's owned it for the last 60 years or so... It has what would be considered "Serious Cancer, in need of massive work" in So Cal. Granted, the chrome was crusty, peeling...but on the sheetmetal no perforations, no panel thinning. Just surface rust. Even the battery box was 'rusty' but I've seen 240's worse! Pretty amazing considering it hasn't moved since Nixon was last in office!
For an example, this 1972 240Z below was listed as 'Has the typical old-car rust in the typical old car rusty spots. Needs work to bring it back." Compare this description to what you would expect to find in The Rust Belt near you! Would this 72 be worth $4K back East? How about with a Nissan Comp 5 Speed, LSD 3.90 R180, and a Fuel Injected Supercharged L28 in it.... Because that's what it went for in SoCal this past April. NOW is the time to look as all the losers with more ego than skills clean out the garage and decide that buying something built is better than bodging it together with the 10 thumbs they possess! (Not the case for this car, but the point on this one was a guy in HOLLAND sent me the Craigslist ad while I was in BRUNEI and I struck a deal over the phone to come get it... That's a bit further away than NY! So if you say you 'can't find one' then YOU AREN'T LOOKING IN THE RIGHT PLACES!!!) The Rust in that third photo was so serious, the owner's agent took time to point it out to me specifically when I came to view the car (with my trailer in tow!) Bought from the original owner (in photo) who was selling it on behalf of her son who did all the mods between the time he was 18 and 49...
I'll add this car was basically in the same shape in 1994....insofar as rust and paint goes. Maybe a little shinier, but I didn't polish it before photographing it.
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I <3 you....just saying. lol
What the hell does that mean?
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The stock filter housing from a 280Z fits just fine, and with a K&N Filter in it, showed me nothing at the dragstrip or dyno over the CAI that was on there before hissing like a snake on a bad acid trip.
A ZX is bigger, and if you are going to use a ZX Filter, use one from a Turbo as one would think with the increased airflow the element would accommodate increased displacement or higher rev flows better...
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Pfffft! Imported from regions who KNOW how to promote personal vehicle security I give you:
http://edition.cnn.com/WORLD/africa/9812/11/flame.thrower.car/
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Screw it, swap the engine. When can I pick up your old one for free?
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There are two components to advance.
Mechanical - rpm based
MAP - load based
One (mechanical) gives you reasonable performance
The other, (MAP) used how much load you have to add additional advance OR remove it from the basic curve. It considerably increases fuel economy, and can prevent engine damage when boosted. For an N/A it's primarily an advance adder allowing higher advance when lightly loaded. Advance you can't add in a basic mechanical advance curve as you would detonate like crazy under higher loads at the same engine speed.
Think about going up a hill and down a hill at the same speed. Two very different advances can be tolerated by the engine. But the engine speed (mechanical) is identical.
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Yes, as stated you don't need to MAP base the load curve, and it's adjustable...
But why on earth would you NOT use manifold load sensing and lose performance and gas mileage????
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For "5,000 or 6,000 Grand" I would build my own race track, and stock it with a fleet of cars in some far away land not subject to taxation, and with the monies left over buy a personal army to guard it from interlopers and Honda owners.
I'd be like Col. Kurz....
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Uh Ryan... Is that addressed to me? You're waaaaay off base with that trolling if you are!
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Keep it, fly to Socal or arizona to get a cheap rust free runner, use the money that you probably would have dumped into rust repair for a car in your area to make the runner look nice. Then decide whats more fun.
Yep!
Fox body is one of several million out there. It ain't a commodity, drive it till the wheels fall off and during the winter while you work on the Z. By the time it returns to Mother Earth ... The Z should be ready.
Basic turbo question, who wants to field this one?
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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WhT constitutes "more efficient"?
I'll go with the reliability fear, my luck with things Chinese is not that great.
But I don't know about "more efficient" until I see some compressor maps. Usually the Chinese turbos are rip offs of the most recent technology wheels, and are considerably better aerodynamic performers than most OEM takeoff units. For as long as they last...