Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I will be the third voice of reason here--the charcoal cannister on the inner side of the front right wing has a cap on it, that cap regulated how much pressure built up in the tank due to expansion. After a given point, it released it to the container, which then flowed the releasing gas through the activated charcoal bed and to atmosphere. This adsorbed the fuel vapors.
The important thing here is this: If the vent was plugged, there is little chance the fuel expansion due to heat would overcome the fuel sucked out of the tank in that time and cause a net pressure rise. Generally if you plug the vent, at highway speeds you will see in about two hours problems with fuel pressure being low...and a VACUUM in the tank, as opposed to pressure.
In short drives, I can see this being an issue. In long term drives, especially at high speeds it should draw down the tank if it's indeed plugged.
You need to quantify the pressure there---it should be inches of water, and the volume can be quite great. A compound mm H2O gauge (reads pressure and vacuum) on the Evaporative Emissions Line from the cannister to your tank should read the working pressure of the tank. Sitting idling it will rise to a set point, and then relieve to the cannister. If that valve is sticking it will cause that pressure. It's a separate flapper that breaks the vacuum to your tank...and like I said, I can't explain pressure in the tank after 100 miles of high speed driving, every one I've been in with a plugged line pulled heavy vacuum in about 2 hours-so much so it stranded the guy on the roadside.
That gauge may be your only hope of diagnosis. What you think is 'excessive' may indeed be normal. If you have 120mm H2O with a full tank it will give a short "psssh"... but that same pressure at an almost empty tank will blow for much longer. Chances are you have a sticking relief valve but not a plugged / capped line.
Let us know what you find!
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the one you have on the right looks like a 6203 bearing. The smaller center hole and shoulder is an adapter bushing to use it in the application.... your 'frontside' and 'backside photos looked identical to me...as if you posted the same photo twice. Is this the case? Your bearing on the right shows a standard 6203 race, the bearing on the left simply has an insert in it. Remove the insert and put it in the bearing on the right, and you're good to go. Actually 6203 is the standard bearing on a lot of 5HP Three-Phase Compressor Motors...New ones are sealed, old ones are unshielded with grease zerks. Lots of times you buy a shielded one, and they make needle adapters for grease guns to pierce the shield at the edge and re-grease the bearing when it's about 20,000 hours in service. That usually helps them last the 50K B-Life Plus. You can do that on a noisy one if you have the needle adapter, and you will be amazed how much longer the bearing will last before giving up the ghost. As long as you get lube in there before the race or balls start spalling, they can go a loooooong time after that rejuvenation!
Bearings rarely have manufacturer-specific applications. But they do have adapters that are shrunk or press-fit into them for an application. That's why OEM's charge what they do... betting nobody will be smart enough to take it apart and push the adapter out, and replace with a standard bearing and reassemble it.
My bet is, remove that adapter in the center and you will see a larger inner hole for the bearing... And a good bearing number. Hard to tell from these photos, though.
Checking my bearing reference guide a 6203D (Sealed) Ball Bearing is 17x40x12, so likely that is NOT what you got from Beck Arnley if those dimensions don't jibe. These are availabe under $7 from Motion Industries or any other Bearing Supply House (or, twice that on eBay by predators...) You want a sealed bearing (permanent pre-greased)... it should last the same 275,000 miles as the first one did! I usually stick with SKF, Naichi, German FAG, or Timken and since you're in a bearing house you can specify better than C3 tolerance and get really good bearings. Sadly, I've not seen Chinese Stuff that holds up as well as traditional manufacturers of Bearings in Japan, Europe and the USA. The races and cages are usually pretty rough around the edges...and in some cases they don't seem to 'spin' as smoothly as those manufactured elsewhere. Will probably work, but it bugs me....
I see predators at work, and this is what a 6302D should look like:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/KBC-6203D-Sealed-Ball-Bearing-17x40x12mm-/300732877802
Oh hell, Amazon.com (seems KBC is popular, cos it's cheap!):
http://www.amazon.com/Kbc-6203D-Single-Ball-Bearing/dp/B00DBOXWRK
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Make sure you get the right belt. The parts stores routinely specify the wrong one, and I have to argue with the meat bags to sell me one 15mm shorter.
Wow what a difference the exact same belt with a "15" at the end rather than the "30" and "45"'s their computer tells then we need.
Almost can't move the alternator close enough to get it one.
Belts are belts, they consist of a length, v-profile, and width.
Get the shortest you can fit on, in a wrapped belt (not edge-cut) and you will be AMAZED how long they can last!
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"if there is a improved method to blow through triple carbs these days."
Yes, I got an e-mail from Newton just the other day, the laws of physics have changed and don't apply anymore!
Asked, Answered, Documented: Search and Read.
The "Slow" RS-Okinawa car had 444kw (Bosch Eddy Current Dyno) in 1987, no computer controlled ignition, no efi, no crankfire timing.
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Insofar as you refer to a thermal imaging gun, SAME APPLIES, the FLIR guns that sell for under $1500 now give the same resolution that a $16,000 gun did 20 years ago...and prints higher resolution images. But no need for a thermal image. The little gun shoots what you need to know and you can work with it easier. Unless you are trying to diagnose a plugged radiator or something, then you need skills with an IR gun, but a quick snap with the FLIR and even Slingblade could tell you were the blockage was!
Yes, I have the Spicoli-Expressed "Totally Awesome Set of Tools"...
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I'll let you know the difference between the $19.95 round fits in the palm of your hand IR gun, the $29.99 Auto Zone Pistol IR Gun, and the $757 Fluke IR Gun I have: at the range you use it (less than 6") less than 0.1 degree Celcius.
I stopped carrying my $700+ Fluke when I found this out since most of my measurements are less than 1m anyway, and I can adjust mine for the different emissivity characteristics of stainless steel---know what? Put a flat white spot of high temp bbq paint and it's just as accurate reading it with the AZ Gun! The only real difference is the spot size at a distance and the range of the thermal element. Some read higher than others. My AutoZone Gun was reading 345C Steam today, and 245C on the exhaust of a turbine. I got news.... 0.1 degree C isn't that big a deal.
And neither is it reading your thermostat housing. It's supposed to be 82C.... not 82.5 or 82.1.... 82. And its close enough for that as well. I carry those AZ guns because I can give them away to customers and they dig it. It's no loss for me, I'll just go get another one! But man....I'm SO glad I did that in New Caeldonia because they had a problem and I told them "go take a temperature profile" and they were able to get numbers for me...otherwise someone was going to Asbestos Island... Don't worry about a 'better' one---it's not anything you will ever notice!
Part of what you describe is likely the tank getting hot and the fuel density changing. I have seen it go from 11:1 with 21C fuel in the tank to 15 and 17:1 with 45-50C fuel and higher! The AutoX is the fuel sloshing around and the pickup coming uncovered---again something your surge tank should eliminate... if you feel 'boiling' in your surge tank, and you can put your hand on it to feel it---IT'S NOT BOILING! Likely it's air blowing in there from a hole in your pickup line being pushed in by your boost pump. Gas won't boil at only 120-140 generally...but 1-3PSI would definately mitigate the pressure boiling point.
I'd call the technical services line for the fuel you use and ask them the pressure boiling characteristics of their fuel. They know it. See if you can get curves for 1 to 5 psi pressure... That will tell you how hot you will have to get to boil the fuel. At 30psi in the fuel rail...it's not going to boil. It will boil and flash-cavitate where it's hot and under low pressure (like at the pump inlet!)
You will note that the EFI cars have a MUCH HIGHER spring pressure on the Evaporative canister valve. When the fuel gets hot, and expands, it will make a blanket pressure in the tank helping combat the inlet cavitation of the pump. Going down the road at high speed...realize you don't recirculate so much fuel back, so even on a hot desert day you rarely exceed 120F in the tank due to air moving through the engine bay. It may be getting hotter...but once you're up to 30 psi it's not going to boil unless the pressure drops. Or the flow stops.
The stalling you have that goes away after 10-15 minutes should go away if you cycle fuel thorugh the rail for a few seconds before startup. Right at the head, the injectors are well up around 180 F and that will boil the fuel if the check valves are all working---the gas expands, the FPR dumps it...you try to start without a priming pulse and the pressure drops FLASH! To vapor.. Extreme cases the fuel does get to 190+ and the FPR dumps pressure and enough is lost that the fuel does boil in the rail. But this is a function of the pump check valve not holding pressure up in the rail as much as anything else. I run a 160 F thermostat and it greatly reduces this tendency. If it doesn't get that hot, it can't boil the fuel!
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Yes, John is absolutely correct! They are in all the 240's for sure...
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You shouldn't touch hot things...
Air circulation is your friend...but what you describe is nothing abnormal. Go to AutoZone and buy their little red and black I/R Heat Gun. Start shooting items under the hood during a drive and get baselines on what is normal for your can and what is not.
Realizing that your car likely has a 180F thermostat, and normal people can not hold their hands on anything over 140 degrees for more than a few seconds...it makes sense.
If you are boiling fuel it likely is not heat soak in the rail while running, it's hot fuel vapor flashing in the pump inlet causing pump cavitation and resulting in a pressure drop. It should not be happening in your fuel setup unless you have tapped the Surge Tank in the wrong place and are picking up return bubbles somehow. You might consider checking the surge tank pressure while you are at idle. This is 'maximum bypass' condition for your car. Then, if you are not running 1psi to 3psi in that tank, consider putting a small restrictor orifice in the line back to the tank. This will insure positive pressure to the HP Pump's inlet, and should take care of vapor flash cavitation when the fuel is 120-140+. And it WILL get that hot if you are running below half a tank and a 180F thermostat. I have not found the need to go any higher than 3-5psi in SoCal Desert but you have to watch that your restriction orifice at the tank does not hamper your FPR action at idle.
One way to do that is with a needle valve, and have someone screw it in progressively until you see your idle fuel pressure start elevating (I have a 6" Mirrored Calibration Gauge that I can use to see this...) and then open it up a few cranks. I don't like needle valves because trash can stick in them easier than a fuel jet or drilled orifice in the return hose or return barb.
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I think I said the same thing PS Denno did, without being whiny or butthurt.
There's a whole LOT of uselessness in this thread that can be culled...
Some people see the nature of irony I use...others do not. I care not either way. Bashing experienced welders by dismissing their qualifications doesn't seem good form in my book, especially when nothing is added...and that was the core point.
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"Rubber washer to mitigate slippage of the bolt"?
No, remove that, it wont work.
Are you tightening all three bolts on the alternator with a torque wrench?
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Or just buy a rust free example to begin with...it's not an historic car, there's thousands out there. Just get another without the rust.
Put you JZ in that. Looks better than your Grandfather's Cressedia!
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I seem to recall 18-24 on my low boost setting (10 or 12 psi) and 12-16 on my high boost (17-21psi)... It really depended on the gas I was running at the time.
That map looks like a very good basic rule of thumb chart.
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The fact that experienced welders decided to 'try out' the cheap stuff and were not impressed blasts the ignorance of the comment "(sic) haters guna hate" comment, which was precisely my point.
It had nothing to do with that, and the dismissive nature of the screeching chimp jumping in claiming "high horse" and all was just.... useless.
He came not to further the discourse, nor to be helpful in any way...just to (paraphrase) "Be a hater and hate on those who posted."
What do you expect from someone who can't spell 'county' and blames everything on a smartphone. Smarter than he is, obviously...it puts red lines under the stuff I punch into it (like "guna" above) and I have to consciously ignore the phone's spelling corrections to post tripe that resembles his...
(Sent from my iPhone, in a rush, from the front seat of a Suzuki Carry bouncing down potholed secondary coastal roads in Batangas Philippines on 3G....if that makes any difference -- or perhaps lofts me up into that High Horse position again showing my Ubermensch Propensity towards superior grammar and punctuation regardless of input vehicle...)
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Yesterday all sub forum links from main page were giving 404!
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Yes Dan, that's basically what I did with my Megasquirt. I knew the old Sun Bench to set mechanical, and then how you set up vacuum advance/pressure retard but reading ADVANCE in "inches Mercury" and RETARD in "PSI" would have made the setup easier for me.... I had to twist my head around the kPa conversions because I could tell you '2-2.5psi retard, generally', and buttloads of advance at 19" or above of Hg.... But kPa? Fugadebaudit!
Frankly the biggest thing I found was all the specialists charging $400 to recurve your distributor took the vacuum pot off and threw a bunch of advance (hence "all in by 2500" compared to the Nissan 3500...) to boost torque and drive through the lean transition in the carbs.
The nice thing being MAP referenced is you can add advance if you want in ONE spot where you find it will take it... whereas before it was all linear. No possible hump or lump midway (like where you would polish out a small divot on the advance ramp portion of the weights in a conventional distributor to advance in a linear manner then hold the timing for a second as it passes over that little divot, then depending on how you contour the ramp it either jumps to a big advance number or smoothly comes out to return to a linear advance. Basically you put a 'step' in the curve doing that. But you gotta be damn good to polish those ramps like that... and SCREW THAT! Digital is WAY easier!
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A setup of 15 BTDC initial basic timing, with advance starting off idle straight and linear to 2500 (could be 3500, depends on compression car weight, gas used, and head chamber) with around 32 degrees.
MAP drops 2 - 2.5 degrees per psi anywhere in the range, idle is 35kPa, up to 15 degrees additional advance added from 100 gradually to 35 kPa.
The range around 45-55 takes some playing as that's tip in... It will make that partial,cruise spark knock...
I tend to run lower mechanical (most use 37 total) and let load basing tweak it as if I get a load of bad gas I can always push my foot down and drop advance (and spark knock)
If any of that makes any sense...
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Fly to Japan and you can pick them up NIB at the swap meets. The G-Nose Covers are about $800, the regular S30 stuff is about $500. Used, slightly less.
But that ticket kinda drives up the cost of acquisition! LOL
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Yeah, there's not a lot of dark thoughts, entertaining comical look back things... but he was mostly benign. Lots of talk and big aspirations but almost Three Stooges kind of bad luck.
Can't really blame him for a lot of that....and I will say he got a raw deal in Uncle Sam's Aise Frakers....to use a "Johnny Dangerously" paraphrasing. I stepped into the abuse my guy was getting with inside information that made his NCO back off and let him ride his time out (I PM'd those details to you...) It was a situation where someone really disliked the guy simply because he was a young redneck and PROUD, and didn't take anything from anybody. I always wondered what happened to a lot of the guys I knew there overseas. Some good guys got bad bosses and got run out of the service on a rail for no other reason than they were Forrest Gump and someone had a mean streak and decided to take it out on them.
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I gotta make the call....this has to be the same guy...
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Interesting, I wonder why I suggested the Turbo ZX box with a K&N Filter in it.... With some cutting on an old cover you can make an 'open element' that flows well and is dirt cheap...
None of this stuff bolts in without fabrication. The only thing that does is a 280Z air cleaner, and then only if you cut the bracket out of the 280Z and transfer it to the earlier car. 3.5" is way overkill for anything you're going to put in there. If a 9,000 rpm 320+RWHP running triple TWM ITB's can breathe just fine (less than 4" Water Column Restriction at full load) I'm thinking whatever you put in there will breathe just fine.
The restriction will be what filter element you use, not the piping size. 3" like on a standard turbo, as stated, will work fine and with a K&N filter in that housing, the restriction (pumping losses) are much lower.
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Finding a Eurospec E12-80 with a Vacuum Retard Canister for boosted use (yes, they do exist!) is not as easy as finding one of these now...It's why I got excited, it's all new components, not something with 225,000 or 375,000+ miles on it already getting a new set of bushings and being told "good as new"...
the options for hacking Nissan Parts have always been there, but the 6 box needs a BTM to compare...
So much for that $100 savings.
Frankly, for the $100 savings and the limitations the hack presents on a boosted application, or on a street vehicle... it's small potatoes. Well worth it IMO.
I'm glad to see it's working out as I suspected. Now to get time to run one myself!
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Mike, if this indeed was "the" Les Heath we both know and "love".... GOOD ON YOU BRO!
I'm sending this out to the guy who sold "my" Les Heath his 71 Box Skyline.... I think he will appreciate this!
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BMWs and early VWs used a pair of micro switches on brackets an oblong lookin cam (or flat) to trigger the switches.
Can't find one? You can make one pretty easily!
vinegar therapy - rust removal inside coolant passages
in Cooling Systems
Posted · Edited by Tony D
Commercial Flushing compounds exist with proper passivating agents. Why people insist on home remedies is beyond my comprehension.
Vinegar is a weak acid. Nothing more. You could buy pool acid (muriatic acid) and fill the block and passivate it with a caustic soda flush. If the head is off, you're kinda screwed as anything you put in the block to clean it GOOD will eat up the head faster than the block. The vinegar will eat your head just the same...
I mean, you're talking a week of soaking...or more. Pfft!