Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Crap, looks like I'll be ordering at least two kits...
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Drop another $8K and I might consider it as Wall Art next to my S20 Valve Cover...
Interesting snag 'o quotations in the eBay 'vert!
Only thing I can say to the claims is "but they're complete and functioning heads, if it's so easy to do why haven't you done it 'over the last decade' you've owned it?"
It was a fishing expedition. He caught a carp. Interesting as it may be this is as marketable as a DOHC Borgward Head Conversion, save that Borgward Owners aren't as cheap as Z-Owners!
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Nice project. Wish I could find a dime and have it sent back to NYC!
I drove to Texas to get mine. Company truck and gas card makes the economics of that a lot better than personal truck like I have now...
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Now new 3M funky mat which is comfortable on bare feet, all tinted up, and accessorized by someone who needed their stuffed animal collection on the dashboard...
Got the powered subwoofer, now to find a place to make some speaker enclosures for the four corners and the stereo can go in as well!
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I'll be passing through Houston in about T-23 days!
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From Lucena City, The Philippines.
My first log on was December 13th 1994 from a 14,400 bps internal modem on a Texas Instruments WIN DX4-75 Laptop using AOL on Windows 3.1.1 from the hotel room line at the Holiday Inn Airport in Salt Lake City Utah...now it's from an iPad. Faster, no wires, better graphics.
Back to the libations!
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Coming along better once I clear out his garage in January!
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Like the old Jack-in-the-Boxcommercial "what is this 'bun'? Tis neither meat, nor cheese!" (Jack bursts into the focus group ranting "YOU NEED A BUN! IF YOU DON'T HAVE A BUN YOU HAVE IT ALL OVER YOUR HANDS!" (Universal look of bewilderment and of "SO?" On the focus group members...) Jack drop his head, puts up his arms in defeat and says "OK, we'll consider it!"
I make "meat cookies" all the time, munching them throughout the weekend....
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Bathed sensors aren't necessary for basic diagnostics. A meat thermometer from Wal Mart, or an Autozone $29.95 IR heat gun will work just fine to diagnose problems, if one actually exists.
If you span the gauge, 190F is NOT dead center like everybody thinks! 3/4 is at most 210F if that is really the reading, and with a 190 thermostat that is a NORMAL reading in some cases!
It's why I say run the 160F... Unless you ate very careful the nucleat boiling starts above 180 thermostat housing temperature...and then it's all over buddy!
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Surge can overload the thrust bearings and cause the thrust surface to "jump" the oil wedge. This flow reversal can deflect the shaft and if conditions are right precipitate a rub. Generally it occurs in the inducer radial region. An ultra-quick stop can bend a shaft also.... This could happen during surge if the thrust bearing oil wedge is jumped, and the bearing acts in conjunction with the airflow reversal to "brake" the wheel to a stop while the turbine is still getting inertial drive.
A bent shaft and imbalance will usually overload the journal bearings. Thrust bearings are in effect when on load and when surging. Balance should not effect them whatsoever.
Teflon tape is STRICTLY forbidden on most manufacturer's high speed rotating equipment these days. I have a long PowerPoint on sealants and assembly instructions basically stating Teflon Tape was miracle stuff in the 60's..but it's time has come and gone. Use nothing but Loctite 567 PST or other permutations for sealing threaded connections!
The Long King Equipment Warehouse Yard in Songjiang Shanghai is littered with rolls and rolls of Loctite 55 Teflon Cord thread sealant from me taking it out of our assembler's tool kits and throwing it over the fence! Those shards will get into the bearing and destroy the oil wedge, wrecking a machine....if they pass through unless you examine the return lines and sump VERY carefully you will chalk it up to something else. It's. Not so much "clogging" that is the issue, every manufacturer warns about the "teflon strings" that get cut off on sloppy installation and float freely into the high-speed rotating journal-bearing area. It screws up oil distribution, or in extreme cases actually wraps around the shaft! I go so far as to tell the piping contractors on site no Teflon on the water side, either...since big threads get into our oil coolers and plug up the works.
All arguments for proper application aside, the basic fact is anaerobic sealants are more reliable on threaded fasteners with absolutely no downside whatsoever... There is no reason to ever use Teflon tape to seal a threaded union any longer. The only place I concede it's usage these days is wrapping the un insulated junctions of Bently 3500 Vibration Probes!
Insofar as. Oil return goes, if the oil return is below the oil level, it will render the crankcase pressures you may experience moot. This is the case for crankcase breathers at least. On most high speed rotating machinery, the oil cream (whipped with entrained air) is returned over a surface plate to give the oil time to de-aerate before running into the sump. At worst it dumps atop the oil and "floats" while dissipating. This is where you make the return point as far away from the oil pickup point as possible so as not to suck up whipped oil into the pump for obvious reasons.
Hope this shed some light on what may have happened.
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Stick within the same manufacturer whenever possible if you plan on fiddling.
Trash a rod in your L6? Still can use the other 5 for building an L4!
Hard to do that swapping brands... You can do it, but it usually involves a lot more work!
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Look at the weep hole of your water pump...that amount of coolant can leave while it's running....and since you are running pure water evaporate without leaving any traces whatsoever. In your case you may get lucky and see signs at the weep hole.
My 260 without a reservoir would burp a little after each highway run and stop. In 3,000 miles it lost 1.5 gallons, based on additions afterwards. I added water wetter to stop post shutdown spiking and burp over...and it stopped. Added a reservoir from a 78 and haven't needed to add coolant in years, just PH check twice a year.
Running straight water is not wise, it boils easily and affords absolutely no anti-boil properties...if your radiator cap is not 16 or 24#, chances you are running nothing more sophisticated than a Model-T Ebullient Cooling System, and adding water is what is required. Batch at least 20% glycol and the anti-boil properties improve quite a bit. Water wetter helps as well.
The dash gauge "at 3/4" is about as useless a quantification as you can get...you need a meat thermometer in the fins or a Non-Contact I/R temperature gun to nail down what your temperature is really doing.
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That...is....amazing!
What is the story on the guy hauling them? This is Texas right...was there frontier justice or gunplay involved?
How about a good old-fashioned Louisville Slugger Beat-Down? LOL
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"Mounting Under The Hood"--what a novel concept, move any potential leaks outside the cabin and off people's feet!
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Caterpillars have hydrostatically driven fans that automatically reverse in operation to blow bags and chunks off the exchangers. Always watched the noobs on the dump stand near the big loud idling equipment, only to get showered with trash when the fans reversed.
The Suzukis basically run the fan all the time as a modification. But my bigger unit doesn't require that. The pressure operated fan stays off through several compressor cycles then runs for a minute or two. Going down the road, I expect it's on more than that.
Adequate rejection in the exchanger will get your fan cycling, if that's your bag... But if you run a smaller set of fans with an alternating mechanism as one always runs those brushless DC fans can last a looooong time! And multiple fans mean partial cooling for limp-home.
The more I think about that squat radiator...the more I think about behind the axle. It would greatly simplify running heater hoses as well! By that I mean plugging any internal bypasses, and incorporating them and the thermostat up at the radiator so no secondary hoses to run for heaters front and rear, just taps in the piping going up front, with those neat stepper motor heater control valves now available.
Unless, of course you are indeed thinking of retaining exhaust heat recovery heating in this van....
I mean, with the rainy weather you're surely going to need a defroster (and hint hint, those are tasty pieces from VW do Brasil to buy up from the current water-cooled versions!)
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Anyone know if the "bumper filler covers" the pieces below the headlights are a purchasable part? I'm surprised i don't see them on more bumperless Z's.
Sure they are, you "buy them" from Star Road and they make you up a set!
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Yep, an old wall furnace front panel/door to cover the A/C Condenser!
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I saw some guys that put radiators over the transmission...but that just didn't look feasible to service. You don't need the air channel, and you will be putting a universal heater/defroster in there anyway (you weren't going to keep stainless steel exhaust heat exchangers for that, were you?) so that's even higher up you can tuck it amidships.
I haven't really looked in a while, but you might try something behind the front axle... But it would have to be custom to fit. I think the one you showed behind the engine in Post #16 would fit there, and that would simplify high point fabrication somewhat. A scoop directing air from under the front bumper to a radiator ducted properly shouldn't be that difficult to do... I don't know if you have the stock undercover still in place or not, having it would make duct channel fab simple sheet metal brake work and tin snip trimming. Painted black on the inlet, I doubt anybody would notice a 4" wide intake under the bumper. Heck, you could make an air dam up front as well...
I can see the ultimate ending of this project now:
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My dad just sent me this link, the "early conversions" (retrofits) used a front mounted spare tire looking thing to house a neat radiator...and the standard water piping to get it back to front.
This link has a photo of the CURRENT PRODUCTION BAY-WINDOW....
Alas, government regulation kills another perfectly good vehicle. It truly was "Das Völkswagen"!
As to sludge and road grime...think about this: mud flaps (the Suzuki comes with them!) and how grimy does the center of the chassis actually get? Some flaps on the front to manage front wheel throw-off and you will quickly see not very much makes it to the center of the van. Rocker Panels? Sure! But with flaps even they stay pretty clean.
If you find another Type IV engined bus, with that bitchin' engine access cover out back...weld it in the center of the floor over your radiator and a couple of twists...access from the top to service the top-mounted fan without dropping the radiator, access a radiator cap or bleed point...or simply hose off the radiator.
A stone guard properly louvred should keep anything getting up to stick on the bottom....and with a properly sealed fan shroud, would likely keep it pressurised somewhat to help with dust when it was dry as well....
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"I think if I were to do it again I would just buy bulk aircraft type wire and build it all up from scratch."
Did that with aircraft ceramic circuit breakers (not FAA Approved or it would have been HUGELY more expensive).... Nice TEFZEL aircraft wire.
I missed having access to the Wire Numbering Machine in the Phase Hangar...
(For that matter, having access to NSN procured milspec aircraft wire, gratis...)
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I just put an condensor from a commercial van in the back of the Suzuki where the spare tire would normally be... the thing was LPG in Japan, and they took all that stuff out so I couldn't even hang my spare back there. So I put this big honking AC Condenser back there, with it's OEM fan hooked to the original Suzuki Condensor Relay. That lasted about three cycles and the relay burned up, so put the relay from the Comm Van in place of the Suzuki relay and ran on like that. Even at idle sitting still in full sun that thing pumps COLD!
I'm determined now more than ever to get some condensers and put them in my 66 with one of those VW Conversions. Big honking Condensers under the van with the fan blowing down, like all these FC Style Vans out of Japan. The Suzuki mounted the intercooler under the sliding door on the right side, and the condenser on the left side basically angling from the unitbody 'frame' upwards to the rocker panel and a rock screen on it. Added 2 7 1/2 foot hoses with proper fittings on each end to adapt the Suzuki stuff to the Toyota Coaster stuff and away it went. LOT more freon (yes, R12!) in the system now, the compressor still cycles even with the doors and sunroof open.
Ready for this---Costs:
Toyota Coaster / Nissan Urvan / Toyota Hiace A/C Condenser with fan and fittings: 2700 Pesos
Extension Hoses: 740 Pesos
Labor and R12 Charging: 1900 Pesos
Tinting all windows with double-black limo-tint including the windshield top and bottom: 1800 Pesos
Right now, my exchange rate is 44.12 Philippine Pesos per US $, I sat and watched these guys the guys do it all and the only thing I have reservations about is the window tint. If it bubbles Ill take it to Manila and have them do it where the company cars are done with 3M...they do the WHOLE windshield so well it looks like factory tinting, and then I can have them stripe the top and bottom as well.
Tomorrow, detailing. I have to bring it in at 7AM and they will strip the interior out, wash everything individually, clean the interior, and then reassemble. Thus far, I have been very happy paying what I've paid for the results I've gotten.
I'm going to have to take measurements on the turbocharger/intercooler piping.... I do not like the look of the Suzuki crush-bend tubing and extended rubber molded hoses hacked when it was converted. I think some mandrel bends and short silicone hump hoses will make for something much better and get the factory blowoff silenced back down again...
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There are 200 mph S130's...at least since 1991. 224mph in fact.
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LEarn something new every day! I didn't even know they made an aftermarket 2+2 Weatherstrip Kit!
Last I checked people were having issues even GETTING a coupe kit. Sounds like things are better now.
I got two 2+2's in bad need of that kit, and The Turd is leaky, so if coupe stuff is available again I'll use my existing kit without worry about getting another!
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Re-Read Post #1, 3, & 6.... And point out EXACTLY WHAT WAS MISLEADING!
Your inability to search ON YOUR OWN was noted in Post #7....
My "misleading replies" or "what I said to you in PM's" consists of the following:
"Let me go find them again...they're full of shite! They are available in Japan."
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"SHOW 'EM THIS AND TELL 'EM "stuff this in your pipe and smoke it!"
"(Posted Publicly, and concurrently as sent to you.
AND FINALLY
"Sounds to me like DAC-House is the guys. If the price is around Y58,000 then it's price comparable with exchange and the EMS post from Japan is more reliable than anything here...
Talk about a lazy bastard!"
(In response to lengthy characterisations of the local distributor.)
Dude, you are unreasonable, and have issues implying anything from those PM's!
Like I said, bottom feeders wanting things handed to them for free.
This has nothing to do with anything other than that.
I truly am sorry I ever mentioned this, or replied AT ALL to your obvious lies and mis-statements about the US Distributor.
My suggestion would be to the moderators to delete everything in this thread save for posts #1, 3, 6, 7, & 21 (the US Distributor's response.) As they are about the only factual information in this thread not getting personal and not trying to hawk their own product.
custom l28/l24 intake manifold adapter
in Turbo / Supercharger
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Get with Derek that Horny Z Guy, that's what he does...casting stuff...