Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Keep in mind the HUGE HURDLE in this instance was a guy unwilling to spend $90 to have the parts fitted to his car.
Jesus Christ, that effing cheap! Coffey isn't kidding, and it just goes to show the low rent nature of Americans working on Z-Cars.
Unbelievable.
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I resent being accused of spreading "bad" information.
I saw a Nissan L-Series Drop In application, in Japan.
It exists.
My mistake was looking further and thinking finding the actual manufacturer of the core piece was worth it for information in English, and then spoon feeding the US Distributor's information to make it easier for other people to inquire about it.
For me, I will go to the guy who made the videos of the DROP IN L4/L6 Nissan distributors and simply buy from them. I don't see it as "cost prohibitive" and the mistake was thinking Americans were willing to pay a reasonable price, or do reasonable work expected to install such a part.
You had two choices (three, actually): parts from Netherlands
Parts and conversion pieces fabbed in USA.
DROP IN UNIT available in Japan (and through some source in The Netherlands as well, apparently.)
Sorry I brought it up. I won't make that mistake again.
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Not at that price... Not even close!
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A list of all the real factory-produced ZX-R's is available ...
It's how we verified the last one I bought two years ago for $500 (43,000 original, documented miles on it.)
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TonyD's Rule of Classic Car Ownership:
"A car is a hole in midair,
suspended there by four rubber doughnuts.
Doughnuts which you can not eat.
Into this hole you will shovel money.
You will never the money again."
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We just picked up a '62 single cab pickup as a shop truck. We have looked a the Subie swap but we can do a 180hp Type 4 and 5 speed for about $3500 all in. That's plenty for a drum braked bus chassis. You have to do a lot of work to the brakes and suspension to run 300hp in this chassis.
Try running the 1/4 with a center spindle that you can rock up and down 1"... 15.50 baby, just always be turning sliiiightly left, and then after getting into third, sliiiiightly right (or vice versa if you're in the other lane!)
Advice: Put the 67 MC in there, a Deer jumped down in front of me in Carbon Canyon, and I lost my brakes completely when I hammered the pedal and blew the rear cups out! Carbon Canyon on a 62 Bus using only the E-Brake is 'interesting'! More than 98mph in the 1/4!
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How did I miss this?
In South America the bays were available with the early 4 cylinder diesel from the Rabbit.
They had a coolant piping kit and radiator that went underneath. Very sanitary and very German-Engineered! I thought some had what looked like a spare tire up front, but it reality it was a radiator under a cover!
I had a chance at a 78 from Ray Andersen but never got back in time to pull it out of the weeds. Got the 66 Split and the 60 Corvair though!
The Bay's Bigger Transaxle makes for many nice swapping possibilities.
The Suzuki Vans and Nissan Vanette / Urvan have extensive 'flat' radiators under the passengers feet with electric fans on them---owing to the fact that the engine is under/behind the front seat. Oil coolers, A/C all that doubled up side to side or up front.
Don't forget A/C!
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Try it at -35F on an ice racing track! We never thought to use oil heating to warm the plenum bottom... It just idled at 2,200 which was cool since it's really not on the cam until about 3,800-7,500!
If we coulda had Weber 3C's, we would have!
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I got to say, it's pretty drop in save for an old drive spindle piece off a dead dissy and a roll pin!
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Xnke, obviously you missed the part about the Netherlands entry running one in Europe... They market generics to niche marketers, the US guy obviously doesn't want to be bothered. There's no 'official' product except for the core dissy. Each one is made to fit whatever... If you call the "OFFICIAL DISTRIBUTOR" whatever they are making is "official"...Just they got a lame one here in the USA. As I said "pound sand and deal with the Japanese!" And want to lay money the guy, even though he turned him over to the Japanese will whine about any technical support he has to now give for the product which he is contractually obligated to support as the 'official distributor'???
The distributor they sell is a 'universal fit' and then adapted to various engines accordingly. The adapter pieces are not needing much warranty support, the base technical stuff if what will need support.
This is what the rest of the world does, they have COMPETENT engineering works make custom-fit niche market parts for their universal fit base item. And they get all sorts of cooooool products (especially in Japan.) Hell, I noticed people reworking GM HEI for VW Type 1 Engines here using billet bottoms... since the bases are so cheap and the parts are so cheap, and it's a self-contained unit!
Go look at a VW Perlux, and then one from a Vega, or a Pinto, or a Chevette....or a Toyota L4 or Datsun L4.... the reluctor and pickup are identical and they fit on a little piece of metal made to fit each application. This is the ONLY way stuff like this makes any sense to produce. Make a generic core that is easily customizable to each niche application.
Where it falls down is the US Distributor can't perform basic machining or doesn't want to. While DAC in Japan has already gone to the trouble of making the pieces and showing how they fit on the Nissan L4 and L6 (distributor stand and drive are identical between the two, the ONLY difference is the generic distributor core placed onto them!)
Look at the Dutch Website, and the Links I gave.
As for getting anything done in Europe between Christmas and New Years: GOOD LUCK! I worked for a company that was based in Belgium, and they shut down between those two holidays completely. It was the ONE time a year I knew I would be home. Just pick it up after the new year. It's winter, its not racing season for most car owners in the northern hemisphere.
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I've ended up with a Commander EFI, two Megasquirts, two SDS units, and an 1100CFM air door like this to go with the setup on the Z (that's a Novi Centrifugal Supercharger installed now going on 24 years.... with original analog EFI --- you know, turn the trimpot knobs for gain and such...)
Recently my eyes have turned to the 66 Corvair Corsa Turbo I have, being that I have the four barrel conversion manifold for it, and enough 6 cylinder EFI's laying around along with the air door...
I used to put Datsun EFI on Corvairs (hahahahaha, how times change!) and think I will skip my ECCS retrofit phase and just go direct to aftermarket on this one...
You think the Datsun is cold blooded with a four barrel....try a Corvair at -35F with a big Holley on it and a cam that produces no vacuum whatsoever until about 2,200 rpms and no way to get heat to the plenum under the carb!!!
An FYI on the L20A SU setups. The early setups without the heating on the manifold had built into the phenolic spacer a stainless steel ring with little winglets about 5mm high and 3mm wide all around the circumference of the hole at about a 30 or 45 degree angle. It obviously turbulated the airflow, or imparted a strong swirl to the incoming fuel air mix.
Some TBI setups have ridges machined into the manifold spacer to impart similar swirl. I think that might help as well...
What you missed was my latest 4WD Turbo Acquisition:
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Super Dan, what is your ems?
I must admit I'm a current member of the 4 barrel set myself...albiet with a little twist...Muahahahaha!
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This is old school, but some manufacturers had honeycomb under the carb to help atomise the fuel, an old-timer's trick (especially in the days of cold starting globules of fuel burping out of Q-Jets was to sandwich a fine (100 mesh maybe) brass screen between two carb spacers. You got plenum separation, and the fuel droplets impinging on the screen broke it up further (at an admitted restriction of some sort...) I think the term in the day was 'homogenizer screen' or some such blather. Might be worth a shot...but I would think modern EFI components would atomize properly.
Then again.... most don't realize that most injectors fire against the opposite port wall, or backside of the intake valve/port wall to make a 'wet layer' which is where the tau layer theory comes into play in regards to responsive EMS.
A Throttle Body injector is quite a bit different in dispersion pattern than one that is designed for port injection. This may indeed be a root cause. You might try some of the bosch-pattern ford injectors (small o-ring top) or other TBI setups to get a 'wider fan' dispersion of the injected fuel, as opposed to the finer-shot of port injection.
Of course, if there was a screen below the throttle plates for that current port-injector to impinge upon and make a tau layer.....
Hmmmmmmmmm....
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If I was in Arkansas, I'd jump the border and get an Alabama Registration for the appropriate Datsun. Then return and surrender the Alabama Registration for an Arkansas Title.
This works better if you have relatives who can do this for you!
"Homebuilt" differs from "Reconstructed" which usually means "Salvage".... Some states add "Flooded" as a type of title.
Really, you should do the legwork before you start your project. Tragedy can be avoided with a little legwork beforehand.
If I was going to sink several thousands of dollars into a car....I would make sure I knew the Title Status beforehand!
That being said, I've bought cars without paperwork...but it's a big discount and there is usually a "waiting period" in the back yard while I wait for anything that could come up, to come up.
Dealing with Lien Sales for as long as I did, I saw things happen when people bought and jumped right into a project.
But a "Salvage Title"? Pfft! If I got the details, I'm going ahead right away. FAR safer IMO than a "Lien-Clean" if you plan on putting $$$ into it right away. Buy "Lien-Clean" you are best to wait until the reclaim period is over.
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BTW, I entered the following into You Tube Search Box --- there's all sorts of videos there in Japanese.
The 123 Website has a link to English Versions of the aspects of their product.
"123ignition Nissan L6"
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SHOW 'EM THIS AND TELL 'EM "stuff this in your pipe and smoke it!"
The last one I think shows the Hitachi being taken apart and explaining how the mechanical advance works....and how the 123 is different.
I hate incompetent / ill informed distribution. I guess "I'll just order it from Japan then and you guys can suck it" would be an appropriate response after letting them view this....
So much for trying to be a 'good guy' and go through the 'authorised distribution channel'.... PERHAPS an e-mail to the DUTCH parent company is in order informing them of their local distributor failing to take steps to keep abreast of what is offered... I think the Dutch Overlords would take a dim view of incompetent / lackadaisical salesmanship...
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B& Stud? Yeeeeeech! BMW parts maybe....Nissan Diesel parts maybe.... Pipe Flange Components... I may be living in the Third World, and changed acceptability standards somewhat...but even I still have SOME standards!
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They have one for the Datsun L.... Drop-In...
I found a japanese page showing it's application on the L6.
It was from there I noticed the ".nl" suffix going "AHA! Not a JDM Part, those crazy Dutchies again!"
From there I found the actual manufacturer's site, and US Distributor. Just ask them for the Datsun L6 version.... I could link you to the You Tube Video, but if you search there it should show up.
And from there, you see, "I practice what I preach!"
Looks like a nice bit, and ALL NEW COMPONENTS... not a 'rebuilt' and not a Mallory Mechanical (which I never had good luck with anyway!)
I liked the boost-retard feature....this would make a quick and dirty period-correct looking turbo system very nice!
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Enjoy the car and don't give it a second thought.
Get all the photos from the accident that 'salvaged it' and put it in a ziplok baggie and start a 'car folder' for all the details on what you have on, in, and around the car.
If you ever sell, the proof will be there, and the buyer's mind set at ease.
I have a filing cabinet... Seriously.... I have a FILING CABINET full of such folders just to keep stories straight with what goes with what!
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In fact, I got a 1990 Z32 in the back yard containerized that the owner refused his insurance settlement because he wanted to retain far more in suspension components and engine stuff than the settlement was going to pay out. Now, there is a running, driving, SMASHED Z32 with a 'clean title'....
Which would you rather buy? A car with a "salvage title" that was professionally repaired, or one that looks OK and has a clean title...but as you pop interior panels doing cleanup after the fact realize the car was 1/4 clipped in a guys backyard garage....
Who was the unscrupulous seller? The guy with the "Salvage" Title, or the one with "Clean Title"?
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"A title of some sort, even a salvaged title would have more or less prevented that from happening. "
I just went through this on another forum.... "No it won't!" and in California surely not! Titles are pieces of paper, and can be made up at any time for various reasons. The Mercedes is an extreme example but I have seen this happen countless times on Lein Sale Cars in CA. Guy buys at a lien sale, pours money into it, and then finds out the original owner has decided he wants to buy out the car during the reclaim time as listed in the CVC. Many people are overraught that they dumped money and parts into something on their own, but since they have no professional standing lose the car for the cost of the parts, and the original cost of the car. KEEP IN MIND A LIEN SALE TITLE IS NOT A SALVAGE TITLE!!! It's a full on TITLE-TITLE, with nobody the wiser save the guy holding the original title to the vehicle and making a claim to the police and the DMV!
Stolen cars rarely are protected by 'the title' there are COUNTLESS examples in the Port of LA every year where 23 Window Micro Busses, 67 Vettes and other collector cars are discovered by port authorities on export documents and are confiscated to be returned to the insurance company or the original owner. In the past couple of years the Bus and the Vette stick out as they were stolen in the early 70's and the owners were still alive to take possession. The bus was recently restored and sold to a Japanese dude, but had the title "washed" through several states....all using the original VIN. The restorer bought it cheap, fixed it up and sold it for quite a bit...he had no idea of the shady past because 'clean title' -- the buyer was out the money, no real recourse. The original owner could claim it from the insurance by paying the deductible paid out or some such ridiculously low amount considering the sale price upwards of $30K. The original owner wanted a few photos with it, and 'made an arrangement' with the buyer so it ended happily, but just because a "Title" shows free, clear, and unencumbered...does NOT mean it's 'clean'! Like they say, the law never sleeps... Once it comes up on the radar, they lock on and shoot it down pretty regularly. Theft never validates a transfer of ownership.
In the case of an original owner retaining title after an accident, ESPECIALLY in the case of a Collector Car, a "Salvage Title" is much more preferable to having one that is 'clean' but obtained through a Lien Process...
"^^ so does that mean the title, regardless of type, will impact the value of the car more or less? "
What it means is NOT NECESSARILY. This car has no rear bumper. It's a custom vehicle, not concours. It's a construct of the seller. The type of origin is basically irrelevant. If he has documents proving all provenance, and the insurance paperwork, for a CUSTOM, COLLECTOR CAR that lineage is valuable and proves the extent of the 'salvage'....
As has been said REPEATEDLY here, a 2012 Kia Sorrento up for sale with a Salvage Title is QUITE A BIT DIFFERENT CIRCUMSTANCE than a 40-Year Old Custom Collector Car. Inexperienced people are applying the wive's tales applicable to Late-Model cars that are subject to Bank Financing Restrictions to a car where that is simply not applicable.
This is much ado about nothing. The car could sell for more, it's 'around' the price it should be... The car is cheap for what appears to have been done to it. Is the salvage title making this a $3,000 car? HELL NO! And the value should the car be maintained properly WILL GO UP. It's a non-starter and dwelling on it is something I just don't understand. Insuring a car with a salvage title means NOTHING in the state. I had a salvaged late model that I put 155000 miles on... I bought it for $3500 cash against a blue book value of 12,500 at the time of original sale. It was made from three different cars and was confiscated out of a Chop Shop by LAPD. They reconstructed it and used it in sting operations for 6 months, then sold it.... To Me. I insured it just like any other vehicle, through AAA with no issues whatsoever. The BANK was the one that hemmed over a loan stating "it was half the value...." and I had to explain $3500 was less than $6250 and if it was going to be an issue I'd just buy it CASH...and did... Despite them realizing it was like I made a 50% downpayment and offering me 2% terms afterwards (in 1994!). After 155,000 miles, a sleeping driver PIT Maneuvered it into the center median with damage to the LF and RR. The Insurance Adjuster got to $6,000 and said "More than 50%, we're going to salvage it!" I laughed "It's ALREADY A SALVAGE CAR!" He pulled it up and was shocked...said "well, that would have saved me some time..." Then proceeded to tell me how to KEEP the car since you can't Salvage a Salvage car twice....it's ALREADY salvage! So we retained the car for a cost of $500 off the settlement (which was, uh.... $4,500!!!) Now, follow this: We kept the car for sale, and a Mexican dude bought it for $600 and a Goat. Yes, like "Baaaaa" goat...we needed a weed trimmer. So, for ALLLLLLL the people telling me at the time NOT to buy a 'salvage vehicle because it lessens the value, and will be a headache' I ended up driving a car I bought for $3,500 for 6 years, 155,000 miles wrecking it, getting the insurance payout of $4,500(it was $5,000 remember we 'paid' $500 to keep it), PLUS residual for selling the car for $600 and a goat. On the face of it, I got PAID $5,100 after wrecking it. If you take into account we bought an Alpine to mate with the Goat (named "Geo", of course) it had three kids. We sold each of the kids at Easter for $150 each ($450 Total) and then sold the known good mating pair with multiple propensities for $750 to the guy who sold us the Alpine.. So was buying a "Salvage Car" a bad thing for me? No. Will it be for you? Who knows, but I highly doubt it.
If you have the money, buy it. Quit worrying about what everybody else will tell you about it. Driving up to a car show, when's the last time you were asked about your car's title status?
California is a grab bag when it comes to vehicle titles. This is not a $400,000 Shelby Cobra sold on original title with "John Morton Provenance" (only to find out from John himself that they sawzalled the car after it's wreck and put the pieces into the dumpster outside Shelby American over the next couple of weeks...) This is a 240Z selling for or slightly below market price, if you want it buy it. If not, drop it and find another but please make a decision and quit waffling!
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Scoping the interwebs for some information on my new Suzuki F6A Turbo, I ran across a neat replacement distributor which looks head and shoulders above the conventional Mallory Replacement.
It's programmable if you want it to be...
There's a bunch of YouTube Videos showing it on FairladyZ's and etc... Some nice video showing the old Hitachi Distributor it replaced, and if you understand Japanese, probably some nice technical discussion as well.
Sourced from The Netherlands, check it out, jump around the website they have distributors for most anything out there. Flying Magnet by the look of it. If someone NEEDS to keep the vintage distributor look, IMO this is loads better than a Unilite!
http://www.123ignition.nl/id/50.html
Looks like Paradise Parts is the US Distributor...
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The brakes are conducive to that...being that I'm 70kg more than the last time I did those...I'm thinking until I get backup transportation (and the fact I've got a new safety glass windshield in it) I might have to wait for a while before pop-nosing the van. Much easier in a drop side pickup or dual cab....if the aren't rear engined!
Hell, it's got an water/oil cooler, and water cooled turbo to boot!
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Sorry, but that's not the point. The point is that a car with a salvage title is worth significantly less than an equivalent car with a clean title at the time of sale.
Going a little further, has anyone here insured a car with a salvage title for full coverage and not just liability?
Dennis
This really is not true in every case. Simply not true. As I said, for run of the mill cars (Geo Prism, Corolla, etc...) a 50% value of blue book is generally assigned? THIS CAR FOLLOWS THOSE GUIDELINES FROM WHAT IS PRESENTED.
BUT...
Get into "collector cars" especially rarer ones, and that the car HAS a title (regardless of type) is far more important.
2+2 weatherstrip kit
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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You actually GOT a weatherstrip kit for a coupe?