Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
Read the cooling thread. Don't loop the hoses, PLUG THE HOLES!
Facebook...ugh... Do they even know cavitation before thermostat....screw it I'm not writing it all over again. Good luck. Read/search. This is covered.
-
Some guys on a facebook thread I started are talking about pump cavitation from me bypassing the rear heater hose fitting back to the front near the lower rad hose.
Uh, don't do that. Plug the holes and watch your problems go away.
I noted when I run the car with my heater on full hot it does similar things. That is not a good way to "eliminate" the heater. You just open a 15mm shunt for hot water from the back of the engine to bypass directly to the inlet.
-
And to reiterate, your pre-76 Z-Car IS NOT Smog "Exempt"!
-
"If this is a community to help the kids do grey area stuff instead of doing it the right way "
Then again, without those 'hopeless cases can't pass smog' where would I source my donor vehicles?
-
What does "Nissan USA Exhaust Manifold Gasket" mean?
The Graphite Composite was specifically for the L28ET in 82/83 (maybe 81)
Beck Arnley usually is pretty good about sourcing OEM Suppliers, and if they have a graphite composite, then it's OEM Supplier.
I have never seen it applied to the N/A L28, only the L28ET. If you go in and aren't specific, you will get an N/A gasket.
Then again, Nissan Japan supports things differently than NMCNA, and they may source locally now through US Suppliers and have determined on their own as a sales company with some autonomy that a paper gasket is 'equivalent' and that is all they stock for obsolete vehicles they choose to no longer support.
They are available in Japan, from Nissan. Stacks and Stacks of NEW gaskets show up at the flea markets and swap meets all the time (with appropriate mark up...)
-
The CAMARO you had all that stuff on would have the SAME issues passing smog. This has nothing to do with a Datsun V8 Swap.
Frankly, a V8 Swap is easier in many cases than trying to smog the existing one in there if there is a bad cat, bad afm, bad harness, etc.
No loophole is necessary, just comply, it's not hard. You would have to with your Camaro Donor, and you have to with older cars as well...as John C says.
For all the effort people put in trying to game the system and making things worse for everybody else...they could breeze through a Smog Check with a little forethought and intelligent reading BEFORE doing the swap the way they did it.
-
Oh my, it still has door handles?
-
What part of "Nissan" got translated to "Aftermarket Distribution" such as VR, Fel-Pro, etc?
If you're having trouble finding one, I lay money I know where one WILL be found: "Your Local Datsun Stockist!"
Never Paper, never was, never will be... Then again, I don't shop Pirate Parts blind, either!
-
You specified L28ET, 1983? They NEVER had a paper gasket. Last one I bought from Nissan was like $30~40
-
Hahaha I thought something like that went on...couldn't remember if the floor was up 75 or less... 30mm is still a lot!
"Layback seats"!
-
Nissan Motor Company, Yokohama Japan.
-
It's not difficult to lighten them as mentioned. Plus you can decide where you want to maximise that loss. I lightened per the How To Book back in the 80's when rocker arms were $6 new... Now I understand the trepidation, but it's a longevity mod more than anything else. Un lightened rockers have gone over 9,700 rpms for minutes at a time in our Bonneville engine. But the geometry is right, stem height is right, lash pads are right, everything is straight and at right angles...
Start cutting corners in the Valvetrain reciprocating area, it will come back to bite you!
-
Waste gate...what's that?
-
With all due respect due given your above comment, screw you sir! Opinion is one thing, what you are stating is something altogether different. And, in fact, flies DIRECTLY in the face of what many have said "proper welds, penetration correct, but setup and adjustment is a PITA"...Haters always guna hate.
I love my 100 dollar flux core wire welder its better then not having one at all. You can easily do anything you need to get done with one.
People buy them have no skill no rime or reason and start blasting them because ohh the welds suck or there's slag. Don't even have a clue about basic foundations of welding but its the machine fault.
The skills level here is a bit higher than most Honda Boards. An example to be found in Post #16:
"Naptown Dave-Always Here -Members-188 posts-Location Indianapolis IN-Posted 20 August 2013 - 02:35 PM
I've been involved in the welding industry for more than 20 years (man that makes me feel old)."
Your dismissive comment is a bit insulting when more than one poster on the thread has similar qualifications.
When a machine can't feed without repeated birds nesting, it's a POS.
With the price difference between the machines, the smart bet (as most have agreed) is to spend the nominal amount more to get something that works reliably. I'm a fan of HF, and will rebuild most of their stuff so it works. But the wire feed welder I got was not really worth what I paid... I would have been money ahead buying a Lincoln,Marquette, or ESAB...
For less than $200 more than the POS Birdsnest Special, I ended up buying a 300A Hobart Cyber-TIG with a Spool Gun Attachment from a welder friend who retired. Know what? It's 1,000% better. And hasn't Birdsnested once. You want my old HF Unit? You can HAVE it...I will gladly GIVE it to YOU exclusively... You deserve it's quality for the comments you made. The 220V units MAY be better than their 110V stuff...but I will not chance it when I've seen the competition's stuff with better fit, finish, & functionality.
-
Headroom is resolved with floor mounting the seats, usually...but I believe the floor on this car has been RAISED 75mm (?)
Leaving reclining the seatback the only other option....
Or putting "Cobra Bubbles" in the roof....
Muahahaha hahahaha!
"Come roof fitting Series Six, because Cobra Bubbles are easier to beat when the roof is off..."
-
Looks like you flanged the connection point so it could be accomplished with a double lap weld instead of a butt weld.Your situation looks similar to a fix we did.
like you we elected to remove the old bent metal.
I did a 76 in similar fashion...and due to beer wasn't sure on my measurements so at the last second also decided to flange the connection point as "it's a 76, who cares if it's been clipped?" There was some measurement error on my part...it was good to have a double flange to work with!
I would probably butt-weld today, and take a lot more time on it.
Cross measuring and being careful keeps things aligned. I literally bolted the hood back on and closed it...making tack welds top and bottom after the sections were aligned for smooth opening and closing. When the fenders went back on gaps were fine!
We did not have a frame jig. But we did have four cases of good old 12.5% Red Horse and all weekend at the Torii Auto Hobby Shop to get it done!
-
Once upon a time frame checking a Z in SoCal was $575, including the first pull.
That was putting it on the frame machine and checking all dimensions, determining if there was a plane of misalignment (or more than one) and making one corrective pull along with remeasurement after relaxation.
If the thing tore apart during the pull....it was on you.
-
Graphite Composite on ALL my engines, I stock one spare and that is it.
I don't use the paper gaskets.
-
EXAMPLES:
1) The vacuum line that went from the distributor to the canister, I rerouted to the manifold.
***which end went where?
2) I capped off the line from the throttle body when deleting the EGR. Is that correct?
***line from T/B to....where?
3) I think I have the TPS set properly but if not could that cause it to run that rich and foul plugs?
***That's not required for any "elimination work" you did....why was this done?
4) Also, it sat without the manifolds on for two weeks, maybe some moisture got in there. And also some pb blaster got in there from trying to removed some broken exhaust studs.
***why were the manifolds off? What else did you do? If indeed you "read".... Ripping things off a poorly running engine to begin with is a recipe for bad results.
5) I don't think this would effect it, but I tried to start it with the the send/return fuel lines accidentally mixed up. Could that have possibly flooded it?
***putting 60+ psi on the backside of the FPR? Anything is possible. Basic diagnostics... Get out the book and start checking pressures!
***What about the canister? There's more than one line going to it? You may or may not have done anything to them...you don't clearly say.
***What about the EGR? There is more than a vacuum line going to it. You may or may not have done anything to them...you don't clearly say.
***What about the related switches for the EGR...You mention nothing about them. You may or may not have done anything to them...you don't clearly say.
***What about the manifold? You swap to. Non-EGR. Is THAT why the manifold was off? You may or may not have done this...you don't clearly say.
***What was the running state of the vehicle before you started? Was it even running? Was this intended to "fix" something? You may or may not have had this intent...you don't clearly say.
If you didn't think to include these in the diagnostic, or consider their impact when doing your "re-engineering" of the system, any one of them could affect the outcome. That you left them out shows a superficiality in assessment of importance, the root of the issue we have in this case.
-
The statement that they can be removed without consequence...
Think Nissan mighta done that?
If you understand what they do, removing them and avoiding issues from that removal and taking proper steps to prevent consequences should be obvious.
There's two examples of oxymoronic, contradictory style statements. Just to clarify it.
Putting everything back the way it was is the obvious solution, as then you can diagnose the separation of the problems you are having, with what you did.
Wanna make a bet you put it all back together and find out it still runs that way, and that it was pure coincidence the symptoms appeared after you were banging around in the engine bay?
That puts us back to basic diagnostics and the FSM....which is applicable to an unmodified system, but not necessarily to one where someone without a clue started rerouting and capping vacuum lines ( and doesn't list all those that were capped, moved, or eliminated!)
Vague,incomplete posts get vague, frustrating answers. Don't blame that on the people trying to assist you out of the mess you yourself made!
-
"Alright. I mean I know what they are and how they work, but I thought it was common to simply delete them with no consequence."
That is a clear statement of oxymoronic proportions. Completely contradictory, all within itself!
-
"I heard from an Arizona region tech that he towed the car there to get an annual but they wouldn't do it because he couldn't produce the log book that matched his newly stamped roll cage serial number. He also tried the same in the SFR regional with a newly ground and painted roll cage but the word was out then. "
This is universal across job trades!
I got a phone call one time to verify someone's job application (touchy subject) person in question was a 'resign or be fired/prosecuted' situation.
Phone call goes like this: "Got an applicant for this job, has XYZ Company on it. You worked for XYZ then, didn't you?" (not actually calling me when I still worked with them)...
Yeah.
"Is he the one?"
Yeah.
"Thanks, good bye."
He knew what it was. I know what it was. The applicant knew what it was. Apparently the second interview went something like "So while at XYZ there was this incident, do you know anything about it?"
He answered "No"
Another applicant got the job.
Nobody likes a liar. Grinding the cage and trying again....oooooooh.... talk about persistence! That will get the word out fast. If you want to cheat, at least be creative so the scrutineers will tell stories about you and how proud they were to actually catch it!
LOL
-
The cold start injector just blasts fuel into the plenum to get the engine to fire.
After that, cold running is handled by a map in the ECU based on input from the coolant temp sensor.
Cold Start Injector floods more engine than it starts, sometimes.... I swear!
Ether is a nice way to get it fired. Squirt a shot in the air cleaner, touch the throttle slightly and try a crank. Once they fire, then the rest is easy.
This could be some many other things as well... Excessive Cranking almost ALWAYS wet fouls the plugs in a Z from too much fuel from the Cold Start Valve. If your ignition is up to snuff, and the cold starter does what it should, and you have no vacuum leaks and a proper valve adjustment it will fire and run EVERY TIME with less than 10 seconds of cranking.
If it doesn't, you have work to do.
-
Yes, in the quest for quiet, the EFI S30's actually had a plastic snorkel with silencer built in, that went to the passenger's fender and sucked air from inside there!
When you put a CAI on one, it's whistling, wheezing, growling.... It was louder in the car than my double muffler exhaust! So I put the stock box back on. No performance drop.
One thing I looked at was the spacing of some of the BMW M-Series Engines and their intake plenum and feed hose. They are heavy...but would definitely muffle intake resonant roar! (The do a nice job on the BMW's!)
Good Luck on your tests. Let us know how it turns out.
Did I properly delete the EGR and Evap canister?
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Mine didn't have an EGR port on it, either.
I welded a 1/2 Half Coupling to the header and connected the EGR and didn't miss a beat.
You always have a choice, you convince yourself of what they are.
Good to hear (as someone surmised) it didn't have anything to do with your banging about the engine bay!