Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Why on earth go from Bishop to LA? Plenty of shops in Sacto or Reno can do that work!
Bishop down 395 is a nice trip so I would say welding of the frame is the excuse to take the trip instead of hindrance to it!
AAA Premium ($100 annually) and a cel phone. If the car made it 80 miles into the hills without issue and you are on the maintenance properly a fluids check, air pressure check and a key is all you need.
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You know they burned witches at the stake in Europe John...
Don't mess with people's religions, they get testy!
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"Yeah? What's your point....I'm doing that in the Typhoon zone, and those bastards from NBC with confirmed reservations just bumped me from my room!"
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That low compression L28ET bottom end spools the GT35R to 2-3 psi at any rpm, and makes a soft full boost between 3,000 and 3,200. Previously with far more boost the TO4 turbo he had hit HARD at 3,000 but like a switch. You went from 150 to 450HP inthe blink of an eye.
Now with the bigger cam (remember stock intake, so it's really only flowing 190 CFM per port without the Senza Manifold) USES that 2-3 psi. And makes power, with the cam coming on after 3500, the car is already on- boost and pulling when the cam torque peak gets good, and gives the second of the "three shits"!
Now, the car pulls like a larger NA motor from any speed and acts like a cammed L-Series that has the cam come on at 3,200 when it hits full boost.
Frankly he was making the same HP at 17psi and 7400 as he was cranking 21 psi at 6800!
Leading me to torture him endlessly on what would have happened had he just left 8 or 10 psi (remember 380ft-lbs at 8.39psi at 4500!!!) and run that Rebello all the way up to actual power peak.
Sadly Jeff thinks maybe GT42 for that mill, with a docile and totally street able 850hp will be the result.
What he really is thinking now is like Japanese Style "Turbotony" build with a GT35X and the forged bottom end running 17psi and praying it has the flow to support the HP it should make.... I don't think it will...but it will be interesting to see an L3.0 at 8,200 and 15psi of boost...
"Can You Say Electramotive?"
Muahahahahaha!
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Oh, I know Star Road...
Wonder what it sounds like on a cold-start?
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I got 147 out of a 1980 ZX, with 225,000 miles on it. Stock everything. Just tune it up correctly. Skip the gimmicks and garbage and concentrate on the basics.
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It was not "continuously available".... There was the original production run...and that was it!
Demand called for another run and so they went back to the drawing board to update what they previously had.
After about 1990-92 that was it until the new head came out.
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What John C said +++++!!!!
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This comes up every year.
Yes, they have been continuously available since they were first released, and NO, you can't buy just the head.
You send them a core engine, and OS Giken sends you back a complete TC24-B1Z engine, WITH A WARRANTY!
that's a 3.1L forged everything bottom end on the TC24-B1 head, with the gear timed cams, a variaty of cam profiles for them to choose from, and the intake and exhaust manifolds with the carbs or fuel injection.
It costs about 100,000$US.
Not quite true, but close enough for the ilk in this thread...
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8.157#=3.7kg, so....no, 7# ain't happenin'n
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How are you "learning"?
The FSM clearly shows this is how they are already wired (through a current limiting resistor) --are you using the diagnostic tools recommended in the FSM, like a VOM/DVOM?
Do you know how to use the diagnostic equipment?
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I believe it is slightly heavier than the stock non-reduction gear starter...
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I had my H4 Lights 50/130W H4's for 14 years with no problems (relays of course!) Then they burned out. I complained bitterly about warranty replacements. I go a sticker and a T-Shirt.
I was satisfied. I bought two new bulbs, 80/100's for the normal price. They are in there to this day (bought the originals in 91, the 80/100's went in 2005, and are still there today.)
H4 Lights has been around a lot longer than most think!
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You know, posting the diagram you are referring to in your post likely will get a response.
Nobody will go looking for your diagram...
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Jeff P was CONVINCED that he needed to size a turbo for 30 psi to get his 500RWHP goal.
Now, after consorting and being corrupted by me, his Rebello Block sits in storage (having made a bit more than his 500RWHP goal) and now he's playing around with a bone stock bottom end cranking 475 to the rear wheels under 20 psi.
The power may be in the boost. But the REAL power is in the flow. Look lower on the maps, to the right and see what you can do. As Gollum said, what you do to make 200HP on an N/A is the same stuff you will do to a turbo car and get a big boost instead of an incremental, evolutionary one.
Personally, since he makes 400HP to the rear wheels so easily on a ported head, with a cam on an otherwise stock L28ET (yes, the intakes flowed 218 or 225 CFM....but he's running a STOCK Extrude-Honed Intake and LOSING 30CFM over an ITB setup per hole!!!)
With that Senza Intake, I would be very interested to see what the boost will be on his engine.
Frankly, he never listened to me about keeping that GT35R set at 8psi and just running up to redline to see where his power peak is.... Now, every day he regrets it because "man it just pulls to 7400 and I have to shut it down!" He's making near his original power goal at HALF the boost he thought he needed and has a car that acts like a VERY BIG N/A engine when it comes to power curve. It just pulls and pulls and pulls. Not peaky, nothing like that. Frank280ZX said his car was a "Threeshits" car, you step on it and go 'HSIT!' then, as you pass 4,500 and it's pushing HARDER you go 'HSIT!' again, and then you shift and it puts you back HARDER! Repeat.... 0-120-30 in 1/2 mile easily on street tires.
Flow.
Flow.
Flow.
I would be interested to bench-up our Senza Intakes and see what the ports flow for the naysayers earlier in the build thread!!!
It will make a difference, and how much we can quantify on JeffP's car, for sure. It's documented out the hiney!
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Pull the front cover and fix it---don't rotate anything. This isn't a big deal, you don't need to pull the head or the pan to get it off and access the tensioner.
You may find, however, that pulling your radiator and working in front of the engine is nice...
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FYI: for my wifes bone stock L28ET in the 260ZT 2+2, yes, it has a GT30 sized turbo. I didn't have any illusions of trying to make anything more than 300-325 as a daily driver, and be able to pop my two-stage TurboXS Boost Controller for the occasional spunky higher-boost run. it's a nice turbo, but I wouldn't dream it would make that kind of power (400) on a stock L28ET!
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Wow, and to think a GT35 R makes a non-surging 400HP at under 10 psi with a cam and properly flowed head and no sign of surge...
Pressure is a manifestation of restriction to flow. If you decide you want to make a turd non-flowing engine make 400 HP, then yes, you will play around with turbos that likely won't work well at all.
If, on the other hand you choose to do the same thing you do to make power N/A.....that is, increase the FLOW CAPABILITY of the engine through porting and a cam, you are rewarded with picking properly sized turbos in the fat middle of their operational island, never going anywhere near the flow stagnation point pushing 3 - 4 bar of boost to "Make Corky Bell Power"...
The thing is, crank up that boost over 1 bar and your ignition starts getting problematic.
Personally, I like 400HP at 15-17psi. Look at the flow map of the turbo at that range.... nowhere near the surge line. And easy on the ignition system too... As I recall, I glanced at the dyno and saw 380 ft-lbs of torque at 4500 at 8.39psi of boost (wheels, on a Dynapack.)
You can force it in there---have at it. I'm not in that camp. I'm not from Texas and I'm not a Bell Engineering Groupie (save for their bypass valve, which is damn nice...)
I'll take mine from FLOW, thankyou very much. Compressors tolerate Stonewall FAR better than they tolerate Surge!
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I bought mine for $125.
I have put 110,000 miles on it since purchase in the mid 90's.
Maintenance on an older vehicle is not blindly replacing parts because you read it somewhere on the Internet.
When I made my first cross-country trip, the tyres on the car were worth more than the whole of the vehicle they were installed upon!
I can tell you, over 65,000 miles of ownership of a 1962 VW Microbus! INCLUDING purchase price....my annualised coat of maintenance outside of oil and gasoline was $247. That included an engine, and transmission professionally built right the first time.
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I was referring to the oft scoffed-at line from "Fast and Furious" where guys malign "blowing the welds on the intake" as some ricer impossibility...
A blower backfire without the pop-door, a Nawws backfire.... Or simply too much pressure like the Zisizit Super Z at Bonneville, where they were confounded that the car wouldn't go faster and finally found the welds on the manifold had blown under boost, and were just dumping air overboard limiting them to the low 180's.... They re-welded the manifold and set a record that remains today.
So whenever someone gets near something CLOSE to use that old FNF quote....it comes out!
I refuse to use "granny shiftn'" though...
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It is possible they were back logged and just turned down non-competition business.
The HUGGER waited months to get his back.
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Read the "What is Surge" thread?
Surge is ALWAYS a manifestation of too little flow at a given pressure.
If the head can not flow what the turbo puts out at minimum rpms (waste gate open fully) then pressure rises and you surge.
As discussed in that thread a PID controller on a valve dumping to atmosphere with an RPM-Based function could release flow, keeping the compressor out of surge.
Combine with a flat shift / prespool scenario along with a proper surge map and you could run the turbo at maximum pressure offset 1 or 2% from the surge line all the way up through the entire rpm range.
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260Z, Round Top SU's---late five speed, 3.70 gear out back, stock tyres.
17mpg in town driven aggressively
27 mpg highway never exceeding 65mph averaging 60mph over a tankful
Highway mileage was a linear slope from 27mpg@60mph average to 19mpg at 110mph average over a complete tank.
I80, Oglalla NE to Iowa, across Iowa & Illinois to the mess of Chitown, that's where....before you even ask.
You gotta work to crack 20 in the car if it's running right.
76 Fairlady 2/2 with swapped L28 and EFI from a 1976 stateside model that had 176,000 miles on it before being removed, early 5speed, 3.90 gearset stock tyres....just about 22 whereverthehell I went, towing an 800# trailer over 3,200 rpms most of the time. 24 mpg in LA commuting at 120kph+...
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So you came close to Blowing the Welds on your Intake?
Poop Doors like at the back of the NHRA Blowers, emergency relief valves. O ring seal, a bridge, some inner valve springs, and locking nuts to tension it closed. It's a PITA seating cracking and reseat pressure, though! Need high volume air.
What have you done to get the most out of your N/A 280ZX without serious engine mods?
in S130 Series - 280ZX
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My stock L28 spun 147 on a dyno. The 1/4 mile times say "more" (15.50 @ 89.XX)
So tune till you hit that point...call it your "baseline" and go from there.