Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Ever see the size of the cutouts available today?
Fit one under a Z....HAH!
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"There is nothing new, only one's inability to find that which has previously been done and reapply it to your circumstances."
Dighera's Corollary to The Rubber Doughnuts Theorem of Automotive Restoration
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My post disappeared!
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I started throwing 17-21 psi at my used L28 in 1985. It's still in the car today.
The oil burning on #5 from sitting filled with water from a typhoon for five years didn't go away until my "ALLRIGHT THEN DIE YOU BASTARD!" 25psi run. Up a mountainside one afternoon. Smoking like crazy at idle and decel going up to the top....not a whiff coming down...or since!
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You're just looking for an excuse, to rebuild it...even though the high probability exists that the rings will be inferior to the Nissan Steel that's in there now.
There's a subgroup of automotive fetishists for which "rebuild it" is the first diagnostic response that pops into their head. It's fostered and cultivated by many.
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Boost has nothing to do with it, it's force reversals in the oil pump drive train that overload the friction fit the gear has on the shaft.....It happens on high RPM N/A motors as well.
Crank fire ignition is always a reference standard, and recommended!
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Big Performance High-Overlap N/A Cams don't work well with TURBOCHARGERS (but mechanically driven super chargers like em BOOSTED!)Boosted motors use cams designed for them. Don't use an NA cam for a turbo motor.
Stock NA cams work exceedingly well on boosted motors. Yes, you can get more from a custom grind...but if you don't want the expense of high-lift springs, and NA cams work well enough.
What goes for turbos, doesn't necessarily go for "boosted" by other means!
That said, I'd pack that Nissan Japan Core up in a second and ship it to Isky for a purpose built custom grind.
If you're fretting about adding a spray bar...skip the custom grind, you will be overcome with The Vapors and faint dead away!
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There is, they just have an exclusive distribution agreement with Japan so they don't sell their crank here...
LA Billet Crank will make you any-thing-you-want, longtime, G.I. You just need moaney to get kissy-kissy...
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"Man, my engines smoking like crazy, I'm going to put a catch can on it."
Have you done a compression check?
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Might want to check compression after an event like that, or so a leak down test...
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Well, actually, with those BMW Squirters, why wouldn't you just make a billet spraybar and use the same squirters to direct oil flow to the cam lobes instead of messing with drilling holes in the bar that aren't repairable?
Now, someone is going "Oh, SHIT!"
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Yeah, that was the BSP mod to do for quicker steering. Take a look at R&T and you will see one is 3 turns lock to lock, the other is 2.5 or something like that....
For me, it was a function of having a 240 with a K-Member that was nearly ripped off during a theft joyride, and having a 280Z2+2 just sitting there taking up space.... talk about "good timing" right?
You need to change that crossmember when changing the racks. While you have it out, put in your engine link to limit engine torqueover on accel-decel and keep soft mounts. I did mine with the car in the air on 4 jackstands, and a 5th under the tranny bellhousing holding up the engine while I dropped the K-Member and in fact, the whole front suspension!
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Guys, your rpm dropping is a function of load being placed on the engine. You can't get around that. In some cases, voltage fluctuations can affect spark quality and contribute more to the rpm drop, but usually it's simply load imposed.
I watched a 510 with a Rally 1600.... load of 150W pencilpoints on the roof. If you turned the lights on, using the master switch, and you were idling.....it stalled dead and the lights grew dim and quickly dimmer!
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I mentioned the second hole long ago, as some might recall, Honseweitz personally said the only hole to be opened up was the middle of the block---that is the one that increases oil flow to the top end.
"Perhaps try shitcanning the spray bar and blocking off it's supply holes and run that same test with just the internally oiled cam. "
This is EASILY accomplished with some pop can scraps. Even gasket material. But it should not be an issue if there is sufficient flow from the pump.
The head gasket hole indeed is huge, unless someone used RTV on the head gasket (seen that before!)
This is where drilling holes and using plugs at overhaul time comes into it's own. I remember drilling and plugging Vega heads apprenticing in the machine shop... later, checking oil flows and cleaning passages was a snap!
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Oh, you're cross posting....
Argh.
Check your post at the other site. Comprehensive answers including sourcing was done there.
Wished you put the photos up first... Would have gotten you on the right track earlier!
Probably get mor traffic on this posting it I n the actual "fuel delivery" forum, and not the FAQ portion of the site archive!
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There's one like that for sale in the Bay Area starting bid $1800...
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Ok, that makes sense....we had put a filter on our filler...
So that takes out the plugged filter. Anti drain back should not be affected by the pressure, just push it into its seat firmly.
But that still doesn't say the rod side clearance, or something in the bottom end isn't just POURING oil flow out! starving flow to the head.
All symptoms have been in the head....and priority oiling of the bottom-end is known to be the case...
So what down below could lose flow and starve the head? I know in high mileage JDM engines, the oil flow to the head was like that... From big bearing clearances down in the bottom end.
I agree, my first thoughts are that something is restricting the head orifice. But what if it's clear?
I had an L26 one time. LPG engine from a taxi! the ONLY L26 I saw in Japan while there....that engine ran for close to an hour we attempted to figure out why we simply could NOT get oil flow to the top end. We didn't have the head off...
Never got it working. Kinda freakishly scary we would fire it up and idle it for 10-15 minutes...nothing appreciable coming out up top...
Put an L28 in it instead. Never did tear it down. Had the pan off... Changed the oil pump.... Just never figured out why. It made no sense why it should have been like that...
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Looks really don't mean much. I cleaned and regreased mine, along with FSM adjustments and it was beautiful.
Short of banging curbs or African Safari Rally imitation driving, I I think they're a pretty durable unit!
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If you change from 240 Rack/Crossmember to the later 280Z Rack/Crossmember you get a shorter lock-to-lock ratio. Short steering knuckles will quicken steering inputs as well. So will a smaller diameter steering wheel (less circumferential travel for same relative input angle generated.)
Each step increases steering effort.
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But I thought turbo cars should not be correcting air density, look at SAE 1349: 5.5.2:
Nonstarter of a question. What's the question here?
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Do you have "head saver" shims under the towers? Without an oil hole perhaps?
I see more oil flung off than in your video. Ugh....
Are you running a non-bypass oil filter that is restricted (stock will be pretty plugged before lifting and bypassing dirty oil to bearings. You would thing bottom end bearings would be affected...have you inspected a random main or rod bearing to make sure the bottom end is not similarly being starved / affected? I recall bleed over from the sides of the cam bearing journals...I don't see that on your video, either. Is this a Japan cam core? The spray bar gets fed from the galleys feeding the cam journals...are the gaskets there perforated? No RTV was used during assembly was it?
I had an old fire extinguisher that I would fill engines with....put 80-120 psi in the thing after a full charge of oil. We learned to keep the oil cap on charging the sump by putting it in through the oil pressure sender hole, it would spray out pretty good.
As stated above, what is going on down below? There appears to be a restriction going to the top end...you say the pressure gauge gave 70 PSI during the run.... But that is all upstream of the filter. Is it possible lower end is sloughing off enough flow through excess side clearance or something in the bearings that there simply isn't any flow remaining for the to end? The priority oiling is the mains and rods.... If they're hosing oil, there simply may not be enough left for up top.
The common link is the filter in both scenarios.... Has it been changed? What can you tell us about the filter you are using? Along with oil weight?
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Any dyno can be made to show anything the operator wants. That's why I mention SAE Specification. It's an apples to apples comparison using standard math conversions to standard conditions. John C has posted the paper on it.
The biggest thing is if the Dyno can be converted to SAE specs (or DIN, JIS, etc)
Not all can be!
Mustang, DynaPack I know can be. The Mustang manual has a section on it. Look at which Dynos the OEM's use for emissions testing, stuff like that. For years Clayton In-Ground was a golden standard, as long as you calibrated per the SAE specs at the time of testing, you could reliably compare different vehicles as to output. Heck, go so far as to say different vehicles on different Dynos (say a Clayton in Detroit, and one in SoCal.)
The standard testing protocols are what gives you at least a standardised number set for comparison. Without it...yeah, they're just numbers!
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I miss my Suzuki 2-Stroke!
I may skip the 2002 Nissan Patrol, and get that Suzuki Van...
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Engine Porn?
I know where he took those photos!
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I was shocked that someone near my house had not one, but two Subie 360 Vans, as well as two cars! Came home one day to see two car trailers taking them out.....hidden in the back of the lot, I never saw them! Lucky bastards...coulda made two from the four..... and my heart lies with those mini-vans...
Open Downpipe - can you live with it?
in Turbo / Supercharger
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"I am exempt from emissions in CA by a year or so"
You need to revisit our laws again. You are NOT exempt from emissions. You are exempt from TESTING.
Draw attention of the CHP and they can pull you over (since 1954) for a roadside inspection.
If they don't like, or don't understand what they see...they can ticket you and require you to go do a SMOG test at a Referee.
If you fail for your year, you fail. If you fail gross polluter (most likely, since nobody is being tested, so the smog program takes the last set of data used for that year, and averages it will all the tests done narrowing the allowable range of emissions each year tighter and tighter and tighter --- "test result averaging", it's how you can have a car within factory specs pipe out as a gross polluter!)
The drawing attention thing is valid. CA also has defined exhaust noise limits (this is all in the CVC, for the reading, guys!) that specify how the test is accomplished and what the limits are.
The CVC, which covers exhausts, noise, and even the smog aspect of this discussion is freely available online. Start reading and become amazed at what is on the books and realize what The State can do to "your" car if you draw attention to it and get an angry gentleman with a working knowledge of the CVC standing by your door with his citation book.
Discretion is sometimes the better part of valor.