Tony D
-
Posts
9963 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
74
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Blogs
Events
Gallery
Downloads
Store
Posts posted by Tony D
-
-
Last I spoke to Slover's, they didn't want to do one for me. Now I know who to ask for!
When the hell was that? I can think of half a dozen heads this year, and probably 9 or 10 last year that were done through their shop!
In fact, Slover's people were making comments on a Datsun Facebook page within the last few months about guys complaining nobody is doing head work for competition on Datsuns and their gist was "if you're making a replica BRE car! why not have the head done where the original was done" or something like that.
They are not cheap.
They are not fast for turnaround.
They are worth the wait.
The last guy I sent there grabbed me and hugged me after he got his dyno results!
I can do without that...
-
Have you read the engine cooling sticky in the FAQ?
-
Big Phil had issues from mismatching components, and running the "Maximum Boost Mentality"
Had that system been more thought out and not pay as you go and see what happens many of those issues would not have been present.
He had a stock head an slapped a high flow turbo on it...you're gonna have issues!
-
Relay Upgrade: Mandatory!
-
Cam should "come on" near boost threshold or slightly higher.
-
Working on your own car is not generally a "business"...
Josh, point ceded re: British Vehicular Maintenance. It's not a knock-off hammer, it's a Lucas Electric Fuel Pump Restarting Hammer...
Where I pulled "evil insurance company" from is the common vernacular. Most people tend to not understand insurance companies are NOT in the business to PAY claims! but to limit risk exposure.
That "most people don't realize Haggerty (COLLECTOR CAR INSURANCE) Is for a collector/show car, not a car that someone actually means to drive" --- DUDE? Seriously? REALLY? If you or anybody doesn't realise IMMEDIATELY that "HAGGERTY COLLECTOR CAR INSURANCE" is not your normal company like AAA.... I refer back to my original statement. C'mon! THAT is a ludicrous reach to the absurd!
Getting resentful that a company for collector car insurance did not pay out on an accident when the car was used for commuting seems a bit cockeyed to me. To turn the phrase around, when your friend fraudulently misrepresented his intended use of the car to the insurance company to avail himself of lower premiums...did he consider the consequences?
I drive my "collector car" on a Limited basis. It is not used for commuting. I do drive to club functions and meetings. If I want to drive it daily, I put it on the AAA policy I have, it's like 258$ a year for PLPD minimum coverage...up to 10,000 miles a year. $180 if below 2,500 miles a year. The price break isn't that huge singly, but the ability to get catastrophic coverage on parts cars and stored vehicles is something standard companies don't offer. When you pack cars six to a container to "work on them later" having some sort of fire insurance or SOMETHING is prudent. The ability to rotate VINs between a preset series of vehicles without premium changes is another... As the saying goes "I can only drive one at a time" the rest should be on storage insurance of some type... Try getting quotes for something like that from non-specialist companies!
-
Dave Rebello or Mike at Slover's Porting Service in LA. There's no convincing necessary on either of them. They both are L-Engine head specialists.
I haven't heard anything out of Bryan for a long time.
-
And set aside 25% of your engine build budget for post build tuning. Most folks forget that tuning is where you get that last bit of horsepower, not in the build. If you budget $4000 for a build, reduce that budget to $3000 and set aside the $1000 for dyno tuning and parts swapping to make the engine work. You'll end up with more power then the guy who spends $4,000 on the build and has no money for tuning.
That's a low number for dyno time! LOL
-
Imagine at first a Zenith 32 NDIX, then a Weber 44IDF, and then finally a Weber 48IDA with weak carb preheat on pure Ethanol derived from Sugar Beets.I agree with most of what was said here, but I think that the cold start issue isn't quite as bad as it sounds above, depending on what we are considering "cold start". I'm running 7.5:1 with a pretty aggressive cam, and on a 60degF morning cold start, my engine starts right up with no drama or clouds of black smoke - actually I've never seen E85 burn black at all. This last weekend it started up with a bit more effort than usual on a ~50degF cold start, but it did still start pretty easily, and with no clouds of smoke. It is a bit more cantankerous until it warms up in this weather, but it's bearable. That said, if you are going to try to drive the car in actual winter weather E85 would not be the best choice and you will start having cold start issues when the ambient temps drop into the 40's or lower. In regions where they have real winters, the "E85" is actually E70 in the winter months for just this reason.
It's working well and it was much less complicated hardware-wise than a dual fuel supply setup, but the tuning was _not_ for the faint of heart. I'm willing to bet that I'm the only person to get this working well on a TEC3
Anyway - sorry if this was off-topic. Back to your regularly scheduled posting...
Don't underestimate how much easier this task is using EFI!
You may have done it with a TEC3.... Imagine if you can "cold start" at 70F with any of those on a cold, long runner manifold!
Been there, done that. Wish anybody else good luck! LOL
As to JeffP, he's spooling full boost at 3200 with his 35R an due to cast pistons currently in the mill is limited to 7400 (don't ask...) so not particularly "peaky". The area under the curve is impressive even using a stock cast piston L28ET bottom end.
-
Ground path is dirty, common searchable issue on all S30's
-
The only unknown is the slop left in the drive tang. Generally oiling clearance is 0.003", but with consumable brass in there to prevent galling and fretting of steel-on-steel contact on the drive points, you might be able to get by with less clearance.
Personally I'd measure clearance after leaving the parts in an oil bath heater at 265F for a heat soak period.... but that's just me. It's the only way to get a 'running clearance' without doing some theoretic calculations that end up having to be checked this way (or running it) anyway.
-
Go back and re-read that again. You will clearly see they STARTED with prepped stock rods and quit at 100 HP a hole.
The San Diego Article backs THAT up as well.
They did NOT use the prepped stock rods on the 1000+HP Engines. And that's not read from somewhere, that's straight from Don and his Engine Builder both.
For N/A setups, sure. Not for 700+ Turbo Cars.
I can tell you for a FACT that L20B Rods on an L20A Crank twist just fine well over a mere 8,000 rpms.
See my youtube video if you want to hear what it sounds like. 1st Gear Shift light was 9,500, subsequent shift lights were 9,300, and while testing for valve stability the engine went considerably higher than that.
Prepped Stock Rods.
But that engine wasn't making 100+ HP/Hole!
As for the head, the flow and what lift it flows at makes a difference, and you HAVE to solidify the big bore / short stroke or smaller bore / longer stroke combination as the cam events will be different as will the acceleration rates of the cam ramps.
(Another thing to glean from the San Diego Devendorf Article was the assymetric cam---not just the basic assymetry, but the ramp assymetry. THAT was what Ron was talking about in his re-engineering of the cams back then.)
-
EFI on a daily driver has nothing to do with it coming that way from the factory!
I ran a 69 Corvair Monza with Datsun 280Z EFI on it back in the early 80's.
Today, any car can have EFI, it didn't need to come that way. And really, hasn't since about 1975!
-
Apply the turbo correctly to the engine and cam and that shite turbo performance will go away! 4K spool is TERRIBLE!
A 700+ L28 with spool at 3200 and pull to 7500 is easily attainable if you size the components correctly.
The only reason for a Air/Water unit is to get better than perfect intercooling by using an ice-chest and pump system to get it below ambient. The above mentioned 700HP L28 runs a steady 40-43C inlet temperature in 35-38C ambient conditions.
And most 'experts' say "wow, you got a small intercooler"....
-
7 to 10 gph depending on state of tune. You will NOT be driving at 7/10s unless you want to get black flagged.
LOL, yeah!
LeMons up north was running the standard tank to a fuel pickup problem every two hours, and we never put more than 12 gallons back in it. That was with a bone stock L28 and four speed, so 6GPH. That seems to jibe with what most of the other guys were getting as well running Z's at later events.
The next year we added a cam/3.9 gear and had considerably more power consumption went to 7.5 / HR...
At the time I had calculated laps - distance to MPG, thinking it was somewhere in the 4.5 to 5 MPG Range if my recollection serves me properly.
In enduros, a BIG fuel cell can be a friend indeed. An 18 gallon cell that could actually USE all 18 gallons would let us run 6 hours on ONE stop. Having a useable capacity of only 12 gallons made us stop TWICE. As I recall we lost 15 laps per fuel stop/driver change.
-
I try to free up stuck rings on everything I drive since...
-
It's not the oil pump, they ALL do this.
It's force reversals on a constant load. Yes, the oil pump is the load culprit. But it's load stays constant. A Drop Throttle or like JeffP experienced a 'lean surge' where power flows become equivalent to someone tromping on and off the pedal will give you the force reversals that overload the friction fit and slip the gear at temperature.
As John mentioned, adding that brass shim stock acts like a 'cushion' to prevent the reversals from doing something dramatic. Like in his case: shearing off the drive tang of the oil pump. To visualize where it is, just look how it's driven with a screwdriver going into a slot on the pump. You gotta put the cushion between the screwdriver and the slot where it's applying force. Make the tang smaller by 0.007", make the slot wider by 0.008" and you can wrap a 0.015" shim around that screwdriver and still fit it in the slot. I don't know how much slop he had EXACTLY, which may be all there is to it---removing slop prevents the backlash and acceleration that can occur during force reversals.
In JeffP's case it happened right at 5,500 rpm and sounded like a conventional rev limiter. Nothing big, up 'rev limiter', hmmmmm, run it up again 'rev limiter'....Hmmmm, more scratching of heads. Run it up a third time, 'rev limiter--DIED'...
Pulled the dizzy cap after checking timing and the rotor was 180 out. Jim Wolf says "Well, we know you didn't drive it here like that!"
So under the car he went, retimed the works...dead on. Ran it up "rev limiter" quickly checked the timing an it had slipped 7 degrees... "Well, we're done for today."
THEN he drove it 120 miles back to his house. Smoking....
Not really funny, but it was not anything spectacular. The car just sounded like it hit a rev limiter. No backfiring nothing. Eventually we understood at 5525 the injectors go from two pulses to one, and because of obstructed screens in the inlets the injectors just made it run dead lean like flicking a switch.Never heard the marbles. Never heard a ping.
5 Pistons with sunken rings. Forged pistons with sunken rings.
Consider yourself LUCKY! Personally I'd never do anything off the dissy drive again. Put an LD drive gear and welch plug in there and EDIS or Flywheel Time it.... Never off the Dissy again!
-
You can blow the air into the inlet pipe from a 'T' fitting. This effectively creates an 'air knife' action disturbing smooth flow to the turbine inlet. If you have an MAF it could puke it out backwards and give some mixture control issues. Midway between the MAF and turbo inlet in this case would be the best compromise for it to re-laminate into airflow before going to the turbo and have least change of MAF disturbance. Dumping into the inlet filter housing if using MAP-Based controls is also easy enough, if not somewhat hard to plumb.
You can blow it into the inlet pipe at an angle towards the turbo...better... But it's likely small diameter piping being used so it has relatively high velocity. Hit the turbine wheel the wrong angle and instead of pre-spinning the turbine you act as a stall brake. Yes, you dropped pressure, but you tried to counter-rotate the wheel at the same time...sub-optimal. An angled entry into the end of a cone style intake filter, or into the filter base works pretty well but packaging can be difficult. It gives a reverse flow to the filter blowing off chunks of crap lodged in it (in theory) and is far enough upstream to get the flow back together by the time it hits the turbine wheel. Generally a MINIMUM of 4 pipe diameters of straight run is recommended, but 12 is a 'metering run' ...
Blowing it in at a tangential angle with a slight directional tweak to blow the turbine wheel in the direction it's already turning is ideal. Close to the turbo so the energy of the fast blow-off air can do some good. A turbocharger tachometer can show the speed level or sometimes increase when blowing off with that setup. Some setups have a diverter baffle to straighten out the flow or get a pre-spin going into the turbine for better efficiency. This can mean 3% better head out the discharge end. You would dump between that baffle (usually 4 piping diameters maximum from the inlet of the turbine wheel.)
We will not discuss moveable guide vanes and controllers.
Just keep the N2O and Fuel where it won't come out the BOV under any circumstances and you should be good. Everyone seems to want to put the fogger right on the TB piping. Personally I stuck it on the underside of the AFM outlet Flange. Nobody saw it. There is enough going on under there that black solenoids and wires covered in vacuum tubing don't draw attention at smog time (Tool Box locked down in Hatch Area under luggage strap huh......wonder what's in there?)
"I wish to avoid any unnecessary Imperial Entanglements..."
Obi Wan Kenobi to Han Solo
Words to live by!
-
The two different setups will require different cam grinds.
The bigger bore will unshroud the valves, which you will want for higher rpm breathing.
I'd stick with a stock stroke, or offset ground crank, forged pistons (simply because with ITB's and the right cam, you won't be able to help yourself going over 7,500 with ease and the cast stuff just won't hold up: BANG!) With forged pistons you can wing the hell out of it and not just think "will this be the one that breaks them and makes the engine sound like ice cubes in a blender when it comes back down to idle?" With EFI. Our Bonneville Engine wouldn't idle below 1,700 on 45 DCOE's, on TEC2 and TWM ITB's it idles reliably and smoothly at 900rpm with a 15# total-weight Tilton Flywheel/Clutch Assembly. With a heavier combination like the 11# Flywheel and standard clutch cover (total weight 35# total weight) it would be streetable I think. ITB's may get by with 40mm bores, but there is no drivability issues with 45's and the flow above 7,000 is considerable (we picked up 40 HP at 8200 rpms....look at Monzster's L24 Build for his 'hot street engine' which was not constrained by racing class rules. And ran a single throttle body to boot!)
Crankfire ignition, without reservation. Come into the modern age. Spark scatter at high rpm kills engines. Even hot street engines.
Big Valves are big money and with what they flow out of stock valves nowdays you don't really need them. JeffP used larger valves on his first head build, now has standard ones flowing just as much!
It all depends where you send your head to get the work done.
"Don Devondorf ran prepped stock rods in his turbo L28 at 1000HP levels"
No, he did not. But for this build, lightened prepped stockers will be fine.
The block wear is a moot issue using the N42 Casting, don't detonate and the piston skirts will stick around for quite a while as well. The forged piston engine will use more oil... pffft! I have gone over those economics countless times before won't revisit them here.
The L-Engine and KA engine use the same oil pump. It's why they're still available from Nissan for our cars. Gasket is the same also. Thank you Parts Department Counter Dude from El Cajon Nissan for that bit of Nissan/Datsun Trivia!
Put your 2.5" exhaust on E-Bay and get a real one. 2.5" is marginal for STOCK engines, it's too small for high rpm bored out versions. Period!
Similarly for the DCOE's, if I read it right, they are 40's and while you can use them.....they will limit the engine useful range.
The power in a small engine comes from RPM's no two ways about it. Stock Stroke and 8,000 or a stroker with a power peak at 6500 or thereabouts. Look at the system, not the parts.
-
Bitchen' Shirt!
-
"They will usually cover minor things outside their rules but a few years ago someone on a British car forums neighbor got into a bad accident with injuries ad hagerty used it as an out because the guy was on his way home from work."
Most, like JM posted, exclude commuter use. Pleasure use is broad enough to cover occasional trips almost anywhere...but COMMUTER DUTY is specifically to work and back home. This isn't an evil insurance company, it's an idiot driving his car in a way that was prohibited after he told them he wouldn't do that. Oh "The Salesman Bent the Truth"? See section on "he's an idiot"....
Also, putting in the accident report "I was driving back home from work" or making that statement to a cop is colossally stupid.
Legally, stopping at a gas station after you leave work means "you were driving home from the gas station"... And if you're hit on the way from work to the gas station....well, you shouldn't have been commuting in a car you said you would drive in mostly off-peak periods and under very controlled circumstances and not the morning free-for-all on the 91 with guns blazing and iced latte bombs from the sunroof...
That's how the prices stay low. Exclusions of liability.
-
"My email exchanges with places in Japan have sometimes consisted of interrogation of what my plans are and then them telling me what they will sell me, rather than letting me buy anything I want."
Welcome to the world of people who know what they're doing, and won't let you screw it up no matter how hard you want to!
I find it interesting how resentful people get by competent engineering analysis of a project with goals BEFORE embarking on the build, instead of as to goes along...
-
Daily driver with refinement and a budget of $10K?
Buy a Used 3-Series BMW that gets 35mpg, and put $5K into your Z-Car suspension and a driving school.
-
"I don't think any of the suggestions made for nozzle placement will be optimal. You should have the nozzle 3-6" in front of the throttle plate, with the straightest path possible. Atomization is critical with a wet shot, and placing it behind the throttle plate doesn't seem as this will occur. Paths to runners could separate this process and give unwanted results/performance."
Ditto: also the further you place the wet fogger upstream the 'softer' it hits.
BOV needs to vent pressure upstream of any fuel air mix, recirculating to turbo inlet keeps it quiet and can assist spool if put into the airstream correctly.
You really don't want the system filled with combustible Fuel/Air N2O mix.... "BOOM"
If you don't pick your BOV point carefully, venting to atmosphere dumps a big belch of combustible Fuel/Air N2O mix into the underhood area with hot exhaust manifolds, stray electricals, spark plug wires which may be suspect.... at best "Flamethrower" at worst.... "BOOM"
Really, most people just put the foggers in the intake runners...hardest hit and least impact on placement of anything else upstream of the throttle plate. Atmoization is not such a big deal with the current generation of Fogger-Style Nozzles.
Not really funny, but it was not anything spectacular. The car just sounded like it hit a rev limiter. No backfiring nothing. Eventually we understood at 5525 the injectors go from two pulses to one, and because of obstructed screens in the inlets the injectors just made it run dead lean like flicking a switch.
Differences in L motors of any significance?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
There are engineering rationales behind all of them...but not from an iPad keyboard!