Tony D

The issue will be where the power peak is, and with a turbo engine so many people mindlessly throw boost at it they turn their car into a SBC conversion with less reliability... The earlier camshaft has a higher power peak, make your boost threshold below where the cam "comes on" and you get a nice linear response...

That's way oversimplifying it, and mixing up a change in how performance was delivered through the years. The L28 camshaft profile power peaks at 53-5500 rpms due to displacement increases resulting inherently in more torque. Most people refer to this lower peak power (but increased over prior years due to displacement) as "the L28 doesn't't like to rev" and like most uneducated shade tree mechanics attribute it to the "longer stroke" of the L28. I assure you, putting in the earlier camshaft profiles returns an L28 that has the exact same characteristics as an L24. In fact, people who don't know it's an L28 in the car will state "man, this is a strong engine!" Thinking because it spins to a power peak closer to 6500 that it's an L24. Without the gearing to maximise it, and the constitution to let the engine run at 3,500 rpms at highway speed, it's all wasted effort. If I'm going to change a cam, it will NOT be for another stock grind! For the effort you MUST expend to set it up right...and the previous statements regarding no perceived gain on a performance valve adjustment (if the guy even knew what that meant, or how to do one) I would say you will be disappointed in the results. Other than the L28 now feels like a strong L24 and revs exactly the same.

Frankly, a "test light" doesn't cut it for diagnosis with this system. A 62 VW Microbus maybe....an 83 ECCS? You're solidly in multimeter era diagnostics at that point. The only guys using test lights to diagnose systems in 83 were old techs at domestic dealerships that were ready to retire and refused to learn to use a multimeter. The right tools for the job return better results.

FSM identifies relays under dash by position not part number.

The crank has absolutely nothing to do with what most people think is crankshaft related response. Giving up torque advantage is always a bad idea. "Slow revving l26 & L28's" are FAR more a function of rotational mass and camshaft selection than any perceived crank-arm length change! The dream engine you have in mind will fall flat compared to a properly cammed L24, unless you're willing to run 5.36 gears and 4,500 at highway speeds, with a cam that gets mushy below 5,000. Rest assured that same engine running L24 internals and cam will be far more the beast and make more power EVERYWHERE! You don't need to tell us you play too many video games. (L20A Engine Builder that made 205hp at the rear wheels at just under 9,000 and needed 9500 shift points to keep accelerating.... Check out DemonoidCFH's YouTube Channel and "9500 shift points"---I don't play video games, I make 10,000+ rpm L-Gatas)

Naw, because JDM, old school per dating stretch (though in the 80's in JDM...)

You ain't getting one for that price. You might OVERHAUL one for that, but not buy one new for that. I'm with Roger on that, any standard 7.5" double disc will easily drop your rotating weight on the flywheel from its current 36# to 15# easily! There's almost half your 50# goal! and where it REALLY makes a difference. The smaller new-generation NASCAR derived 5" assemblies are as I see even lighter! That would shave another 6# off... You are a dedicated track car, ditch street components which is what the AZC flywheel really is, a twin disc will turn your car into something else in terms of throttle response. Make SURE your throttle linkage is smooth, not binding, and progressive! So, where to get another 25# cheap? I'd look at the car and be practical on a dedicated track vehicle in a shunt: bumpers really serve no function other than looks on a 240Z, Hood and Back Glass, inner door panels still on there? Interior pieces and sound deadening on the underside/inside? A know a place that makes quick-release hinge-pinned aluminum or titanium door hinges for an S30...

People cough at $500 for the Kamerai tensioner.... What do you think they would do with the cost of that gear drive????

"As you can see on the last picture this Dyno was done with the Cast Manifold (ported) and 2.5" Exhaust. Meaning TonyD was right." Heh heh heh... Muahahaha! I love it, yet another dyno-sheet to support skills and tuning rather than mindless parts swapping! This is basically an oversize L26 turned to L28 (L24 over bored with offset ground L28 crank to give 2750cc's!)... Nice numbers indeed! You can definitely see where the cam "comes on" at 3900 rpms and gives flat hp peak between 6300 and 7300... Very nice indeed! I think dumping to a 3" exhaust would pick you up the same or nearly the same as extractors. For the doubters: "See what happens when you think of the system, and not an amalgam of bolt-on parts individually as some sort of magic-bullet cookie cutter formula?"

On some of mine, out of movement of harnesses and wanting to clean things up, or shorten/extend this or that...I replaced stuff with Weatherpack GM-Style connectors... Some of those ECCS Plugs were literally filled with green corrosion byproduct, and it was "I don't have the time for this crap!" Snip, Crimp, and Stab and I was on my way. I think this ties in to my lack of problems after swaps like Cygnus mentions. Whatever is valid in chassis originally is compounded when you swap and disturb maybe tenuous connectors at best then hope they reconnect later.

I got a Binks 7. There WAS a time the Harbor Freight Standard Gun was a VERY GOOD Binks 7 copy (we're talking mid-80's...) I would use the HF guns with the new polyester and catalysed primers then because more often than not something unexpected came up and it hardened in the gun! At the time they were $9.95 and went on sale for $4.95! I would buy 10 at a time to get free shipping to the APO, then sell five to Japanese guys who PO'd the local Binks Rep by swapping their Binks parts onto the Central Pneumatic Body! LOL At the time the Iwata was a beautiful Lacquer gun. It had a fan adjustment that you could adjust with your thumb, so you could go from wide fan oval to circle as a shape tapered for less waste... Clever, those Japanese!

I don't have one on mine, and unless you're tracking it...it's questionable it's benefits. A smaller diameter steel tubing shaft may have lower MOI, and therefore accelerate faster than and aluminum unit of larger diameter. I dynoed in SoCal, and ran the 1/4 mile first on my 1st gen G-Tech (which was close to my actual dyno run results) and then made a series of track passes in SanAntonio Texas where the track has a certified scale so I got an actual as-run track weight to do the hp calculations from the 1/4 mile times and trap speeds.

And is hogs resources in boot! Hate Avast...

Would it help to say I stopped by Star Road last year? Seriously, what passes and is tolerated as "streetable" in Japan is quite a bit different than BarcaLounger-Driving American Sensibilities!

Cast Pistons Break at those speeds, Forged do not. "That high"... Is not... For a forged piston L28. Not even!

You got it about right, a low inertia clutch flywheel should be around $1K, plus starter. What weight flywheel you running? And do you have a conventional clutch cover? The standard cover weighs 24#, a "lightweight" flywheel anywhere between 9-11#, so you are looking best case at 33#. A standard Tilton triple disc large diameter setup runs 15# total. And it's off a far more important place to remove weight than the mass of the body. Check the weights of your rims and lug nuts as well as that driveshaft. Failing all that, you would be amazed how much you can knock off in body and paint prep trimming spot weld flanges... Bumper Bracket Holing... Etc...

Exactly! I can't tell how many times I've tried to explain the cat does NOT act as a continual scrubber, but a transient cleaner. Tuned properly, with no misfires, it lasts a loooong time! A bad plug wire pumping unburned HC into the monolith causing it to overheat and melt/crack....welcome to the reason for CA-Specific Catalysts!

Mind you, I actually own one of those IR Diesel Powered compressors and two 300 gallon tanks... For frames on domestic crap and the like, I will get guys together and have a "blasting day" in the back yard. Split the cost of a commercial pressure pot and hood/ventilator and piss off the neighbours starting around 7AM For chassis parts, castings, crap like that it's great. I'd never do my engine bay that way again.

I sandblasted my 73 engine bay in 1985. After recovering from the silicosis I gave myself I painted it. It looked great. To this day, I still get sand in the heater system. I would NEVER do it again! I would chemical strip with water-based stripper, and confine any blasting to a self-recovering unit with mask to recover media and spotblast corrosion. I bought the larger HF Pressure Pot for soda blasting and use it outdoors...with a mask. Tops better than any suction feed gun, and works way better with limited volume compressors like yours. My advice on your compressor: see if you can find more tanks to add volume and use a pressure pot style blast setup outdoors, or the spotblaster mentioned. Never, never, never ever again. Goddamn sand. It IS WORSE than Kuwait in a sandstorm! Trust me on that!

Have you tried low pressure hot cup? The hot cup lets you really get build on lacquer. I never had the money to buy a gun when I was in apprenticeship. My 1982 VW Mars Red lacquer job on the 62 bus is still shiny nice, even though it was shot outdoors, in the fall...of 1982!

I suggest a re-viewing of the opening montage from "World's Fastest Indian"... The Shelf "Offerings to The Gods of Speed" We all have one. Some of us, not necessarily in the shed!

I bought the car from a lein sale in San Pedro for $100. I could not get it to smog...mainly because the but splicing in the harness... I pulled the engine, and put an EFI System on it that was sitting in a box that came off a 1976 280Z 2+2... I think it ran, not really sure but it was free. While it was out, it got a new 15# flywheel! and clutch. It runs a distributor out of the first 280Z in the Pyrite Pick-A-Part I found, connected to the transistor box that was in the car when I bought it. The stock cast iron manifold was put on, and an MSA down pipe was used to mate it to the existing crush-bent 2.5" exhaust that is fairly crushed from bottoming... It has two mufflers, and is quieter than stock. I had a CAI on it, but didn't like the hissing at low speeds. I put the stock air cleaner back into the car. It is a full second faster than most 76 Coupes, which run 16.50 in the 1/4 mile. Anybody at the San Antonio ZCON saw the car make 26 passes and run the AutoX. The guy in the shiny 76 Coupe that ran against me over 12 times and started swearing at me because his shiny, bolt-on-beauty couldn't beat me....well maybe he needed to do like John C says and take some direction and time making everything works as it should. I put nothing into it, just time and attention. I don't know where you get your numbers that 147 is 30hp over stock, a properly tuned L28E bone stock should spin the dyno between 120 and 150. An L24 100 to 120. When I got the car it had triple Webers, a header hooked to that crushed exhaust with ONE muffler, and some racy wires that leaked voltage like a sieve as when I changed them it was like night and day...but still only had 87 HP to start with. Made all the right noises, was loud, drew attention...but just didn't have any real power. After bringing it back to EFI Stock, it had loads more torque, was quieter, got 2X the gas mileage, and was able to be driven at throttle openings BETWEEN idle and WOT. I took off everything that made it "fast" and went faster. In my experience, a new set of plug wires and timing check gains you more horsepower than any of the garbage bolt ons you can buy. Thing is, it doesn't cost a thing. And there's no money in selling you THAT... so helpful shop guys will point out all sorts of things for you to waste your money on. If you aren't spinning a MINIMUM of 120-125HP on your bone stock L28E, you need to look what you have wrong that is costing you power. In my case it was a header, triple webers with unknown jetting, plug wires, TPS adjustment, AFM boot leaks, etc etc etc... In fact, some people objected to the number as it was more than their L28ET was making...and that's just sad! But the 1/4 times don't lie!

"FOOP FOOP FOOP" What's that? I think the engine just Fooped itself!

Isky will grind to your engine...and not that expensively. Check what people who did back to back comparisons of cams, that's another component that need not be offshore sourced.

Boosted? Drunk, on crack, hanging upside down being flailed by a dominatrix! 325 with stock externals isn't that difficult. Your path is the one I have advocated for over 20 years now: with a turbo concentrate on your externals, and most importantly the tuning aspects of your EMS. once you have at engine properly tuned to its limits, THEN adding durability boy upgraded internals is always a progressive step option. Frankly, JeffP is happy with 450 in his car on a stock bottom end...but laments not being able to pull past 7400 knowing it has cast pistons... Adding forged stuff at the start just makes the inevitable tuning oopsies more expensive! After goals are known, appropriate head work will make sizing of the rest of the system easier, but it's something you should handily compensate for later if you do it, and have competence on the EMS.