Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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You would notice an interesting similarity to one Mr. P's Dyno Curve in terms of Linearity....
Remember the Diesel was originally designed to run on Coal Dust! And yes, there was a decreased fuel capacity in F1, the earlier turbo years with refueling (and more HP, muahahahaha) changed to what is stated in the paper as 150L or something like that... You filled once, and had to run the race on that one fillup.
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The simplest thing to do is ask if they can convert to an SAE Specification.
If they can't, there can't really be complaining about anybody saying it's "pony power"!
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Yes, lunch and a few beers to show respect for someone you want something from goes a long way.
And after that, it's amazing how quickly some people pick up the phone to discuss and clarify your previous discussion.
A second lunch---maybe a dinner someplace? WOW! Where did you come from?
"Everybody else just wants this crap for free, and they don't even say 'thanks'!"
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Neat, I have a neighbor with wireless next to our summer cabin... Bet I could piggyback off that for remote monitoring!
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Swagelock makes those same fittings in Brass.... With Rigid Copper Line it could be period vintage looking...
Wade makes fittings that braze on to copper rigid piping, look like compression fittings, but actually have viton o-rings on the sealing faces, very low makeup torque. Great for water, oil, and fuel! More brass-and-copper.... too bad I'm not into Austins or something like that...
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"Limit on boost, 1987, 4.0bar....."
Oh, how I miss pre-limit turbo cars!
Nice SAE Paper, I just have my memory, good to see the actual numbers were right on after all these years!
84% Toluene...muahahahaha!
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I think the big thing to take from these past discussions was people with a Racing Mindset BOX must stay thinking within that BOX (also known as strict rules governing things like valve placement, size, etc...) and that touting authoritatively ANY "Racing Numbers" as any sort of "ultimate" build is foolish since they, by definition must conform to RULES that LIMIT horsepower.
This engine was not built to conform to such standards, period, end of debate and comparisons between spec-racer builder-specialists, and those not constrained by such rules.
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Had an air cooled Suzuki Jimny Jeep... Put an LZ18ET in it....
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Rubber Mounts Move: Hump Hoses
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Honda F1 Turbos used to heat the "fuel" they used to 150F as it wouldn't atomise under 147F. It showed an octane of 98 when tested in the FIA motor, so they could use it...was like a thick syrup.
Hot fuel is less dense and has less btu's Per unit volume. It's why the Z31's had a fuel temperature sensor, and most cars today use one....
Fuel injectors are a unit-volume device, without temperature correction for the fuel, the amount of btu's injected per pulse width can vary greatly...and that pooches your emissions.
Discussions of fuel coolers are in the archives back to at least 2000/2001 when I did my instrumented cross country trek, and ran support for the Japanese guys running to Vegas across the desert to Z2K...
Gasoline at 140F will run crazy lean compared to gasoline straight out of the ground at 58-65F!
It's removing heat picked up in the engine bay on the return to the tank that Pays long term dividends... Another reason modern vehicles are return less (evaporative emissions...)
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Actually, New Zed was quoted by someone else....which is not blocked.
And when a fact's a fact...there. Is no arguing it. Even when he says it!
Except for The Rabble that felt it necessary to thrash the thread making it all about them...
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"With the J-pipe it was around 215 sucking out from under the turbo, around 150~160 with CAI and the J-Pipe, 115 with a CX racing core and no CAI, and 90 with FMIC and CAI. Hard numbers for my setup. "
As stated, you just proved you have a crap intercooler!
The Delta-T across the turbine at a set Pressure Ratio EASILY explains the difference in temperature on the J-Pipe numbers. But the difference with IC is HORRID! BOTH of those should be within 9 degrees of Ambient. Any decent cooler should drop mass air from 270 to 104 without much airflow at all.... 215 is child's play.
You picked the wrong core, bud!
As to the 'under ambient' you can't get that with Air-Air, and likely you will need chilled water to accomplish better than perfect intercooling. The math is out there all over the internet. In it's most basic form: PV=nRT Boyle's Law. But that's very basic. VERY basic. The turbocharger sites can get you a better understanding of what inlet does to outlet temperatures. Similarly, intercooler function can similarly be quantified. You need to know the sizing for peak horsepower, pounds per hour for horsepower, and then the prospective worst case btu rejection scenario. Size it properly using that, and the vagaries you show will not make a blip on the screen.
For instance, JeffP runs consistent 43C inlet temperatures. At 8, 17, 21, 25 psi.... It's strange how it doesn't heat soak and temperature rise... Because even though everybody who sees it says "that intercooler is way too small" it works.... Because he did the math beforehand.
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Pockets don't need to be that deep.
Read carefully Don's comments...
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Winston, your FMIC is sized poorly, there shouldn't be that. Kind of spike on after-cooler temperatures just from moving the inlet position to the turbo unless you were sucking air right from the exhaust manifold area under the intake right at the turbo inlet...
Even then, the additional turbo discharge heat should easily be taken up by the intercooler.
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You will need silicone "Hump Hoses" on the engine side of your couplers to allow for engine torque over. In front of the core support, everything can be straight tubing rigidly fixed.
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Just six main jets? And when do you change them?You didn't get it. ANY filter restricts the intake. The point of testing is to find out how much of a restriction it presents. Tuning these carbs is very simple, if you know what you're doing. Changing 6 main jets, if need be, is not difficult.
I'd be interested to see restriction numbers, not AFR or jets changed... What do they restrict compared to a proper filter box? Restriction is pumping loss...
Those Strainers restrict only the VENTURI. Ambient pressure is still on the float bowl...
A filter will cover the float equalization hole, so as filters plug, the pressure present at float bowl is relatively similar to the Venturi, so the car does not start to run progressively richer as the filter / strainer plugs!
The phrase "if you know what you are doing" indeed applies.... This is a most basic carburetor principle of proper filtration, that float bowl is vented to the same ambient pressure as Venturi throat. The relative delta p across that strainer is different at idle and at 7,000 rpms WOT. I WARRANT it results in enrichment.... And depending on fouling factor, variable enrichment at that!
All filters cause restriction, yes.
But not all restriction is the same!
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And not to put too fine a point on it, to the pricks who argued about the 1100-1200HP number, read the 2009 SanDiego Article quoting Don Devendorf.
Arseholes...cast pearls before the swine...
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Does this mean no sharing?
Not to put too fine a point on it, but yes, I don't feel like arguing with the pricks that inevitably surface when this subject comes up.
If you have credible credentials, the information is out there for the asking. Don't expect me or anybody else to piss in their own well giving recommendations on who to call or talk to...we still need to tap that well from time to time, and poisoning it with people intent on talking about stuff but not doing anything is just not going to happen.
It's not a matter of "sharing" either...that's been tried. Nobody wanted to listen...or made the process so excruciating that the end result is "why bother"! The people that did it, did so just fine before the Internet. Many who got the knowledge also existed before the Internet.
Frankly, it's easier to just develop the stuff on your own and keep your mouth shut as the Internet is a big waste of time. What you, as a developer will gain out of it will pale by comparison to what the vampires will try to suck out of you.
There just becomes a point where you let the idle curious wither as it's not worth the effort. Even here. Those that do, will do...and know each other well enough to keep those important channels open for growth and knowledge exchange.
But the idle curious... Figure it out. We did, you can, too. But it will take effort.
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Black always seemed to be the dunce's choice to me....if anything I painted them white. Makes dropped nuts and bolts show up easier, the light from that flashlight at 2AM on the roadside always seems brighter....
The last thing I wanted was an oil / fuel leak that was hard to identify...black making it difficult in the extreme. White makes it easy.
I don't get into the habit of constructing leaking pigs, so black for concealment purposes never really entered my mind. Being able to see when I'm in there was most important...
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The stated ring characteristics are for use in American Blocks...none of them really apply to Nissan Blocks with their high Nickel Content...
All characteristics otherwise are the same, it just affects how fast the RINGS wear out (which is what happens in Nissan's: the rings wear, not the block!)
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I resorted to going to the junkyard to find a 260Z and getting a fan/clutch assembly off it. Had plenty of ZX fan assemblies out in the yard to compare it to...
The 260/280 stack is noticeably shorter, with the S30 assembly "covering more" of the fan clutch assembly, and being much tighter to the water pump.
It looks like you have a ZX fan stack on it. Clear access to the water pump mounting studs. The S30 is much tighter to the WP than that one in the photo.
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You wouldn't run them because "they look very restrictive"? Not a great reason, is it?
I can relate the following from a compressor startup I did this past weekend in Vincomin Vietnam. It was my first startup where I was able to measure a drop on a 'witch's hat' startup strainer.... These particular strainers are made in China, and are sized to fit in place of our standard expansion bellows on the inlet piping of the machine.
I am familiar with witch's hat strainers, having used them for the past 25 years during commissioning. A standard witch's hat strainer usually is put in place of the "maintenance spool" a piece of pipe 4' long on the inlet to allow removal of casings, etc. That hat strainer will look like a dunce cap, almost 4' long--a long cone with lots of surface area.
The new strainer is 18" long.
It looks restrictive to me, compared to traditional witch's hat strainers.
In testing this weekend, at full flow, the shorty strainer had the water manometer almost sucked out into the inlet. And at minimum flow, closer to 10" of Inlet Restriction (the maximum allowable with plugged inlet filters!)
A standard witch's hat strainer with finer mesh is usually no more than 10" at maximum flow...
So chances are good, it it looks restrictive, chances are it is, and testing will quantify it. Those Pierce strainers are not "filters", they're rock strainers. They serve no purpose other than keeping a piece that will catastrophically fail the engine out... Simply scoring cylinder walls from dust and sand will still happen. They're a vintage-look throwback for the racing cars of old. They are no substitute for a proper filter which will be more effective, and less restrictive.
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Changes in air density change the surge points of the compressor quite a bit.
You really need to look at the compressor map to see what changes it will make in compressor flow and surge characteristics.
If the FMIC is properly sized, any changes in compressor density temperature increase should be handled readily and your output from the FMIC should be within 10C of ambient.
The change you get from 40C air, as opposed to 60-80c air under the hood is really more of compressor map shift and surge points moving around.
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Keep your fuel tank full on the dyno so the fuel doesn't heat up and start throwing off your fuel calibrations "chasing a lean condition"...
Anybody who adds fuel 5 gallons at a time because racing fuel is expensive deserves the days they spend chasing that lean condition that shows up after a few pulls and never seems to go ways (till you add another five gallons, it's resolved and on the next pul it's starts showing lean again...)
L6 Cooling System Diagrams
in Cooling Systems
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It's a higher pressure area with more flow than the head. Depending on what Cedric you had as well. The 77 I had did not use what is sometimes referred to as "block drain plug" for the heating system. The smaller the heater core, the hotter the water you want to use....Cedric may have not 'needed' the head tap to get effective heating in it's HVAC system... I can't recall exactly, but I think I saw some US Sedans that used that tap with a "Y" branch... Can't remember the exact routing. Would be interesting to see a photo of the setups....my Cedric didn't have the 'aroudn the back' line like the Z"s did, either....it's bypass was totally at the front of the engine, with two 8mm tubes, and of course what came back from the heater core.