Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Even race cars nowadays run filters. Look at the Infinity IRL engine: filtered!
There are those independently wealthy individuals for whom a $5,000 freshening every year is no big deal...
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I would nix any idea behind the axle. If you look what happens to Z's that get rear-ended...you will see why.
Behind the seats compartment area looks easer, and safer than anything in the crumple zone.
Fusible links the close to the firewall can be put inside the passenger's compartment footwell easier than a complete battery relocation.
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Mine was better than that! If I'd sloped the front edge at ALL (or even chamfered a 1" 45 degree off the corner) it would have cleared no problem... I still have it, may still do it anyway!
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I built my HKS Type1 knockoff, but only because I had taxpayer supplied aluminium, welding equipment, and machine shop.
If it didn't knock on my hood, I'd still be driving it today!
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You got
1) A short memory
2) an inability to read.
NewZed is not my suck up, as I said, he's on my blocked list.
Which makes his point quite valid in my mind. That we agree you're being a douche on this thread is indeed a strange cosmic alignment not seen since Sigourney Weaver got it on with Rick Moranis. Dogs and cats, living together...that kind of crap.
To the user control panel, it's long overdue.
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Dude, just stop. You have trashed this thread with your ignorance.
Indeed it's a tool shed candidate NOW.
When my buddy bought his "1978 Fairlady Z---GS31" the dealer laughed saying "They didn't make those then, that was just when it was sold. They stopped making S31's in 1977"
It wasn't introduced in "LATE 78"---introduction in Japan was in DECEMBER of 1977 at the Tokyo Motor Show, with the models freely available in June, 1978 as a 1978 vehicle.
Give it up, you're out of your element. Gain knowledge, please.
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You exaggerated and got caught. Just live with it, don't try to defend it. If your car ran perfectly like you said, you wouldn't be messing with it.
Forgot to say - the reason your post is worth poking fun at is because there are people out there who read posts like yours and think that things like swapping in the Z31 ECU are easy. Then they waste a lot of money and time, like you're doing now, until they realize that the advice they believed was BS. The worst part is that you're passing on the same bad advice that probably got you started. Stop the madness, tell the truth.
AMEN, BROTHER! Shooting your mouth off with a donkey-screwing frame of reference doesn't work well...
I meant what I said, anybody with a "good running stock L28 ECCS" doesn't know what "GOOD RUNNING" is...other than my example of doing sheep and donkeys. It's a limited frame of reference and really not valid in the world today. It's 30 year old technology, it runs terribly compared to anything produced today in the same way a 55 Chevy ran compared to an 85...
You THOUGHT your 55 'ran great' and you accepted the following:
1) Stalling when cold. Three and four more times leaving the driveway and heading to the roadway on a cold morning.
2) Inability to start when cold at all. And a good chance trying to will kill the battery, dead....and likely have a cel freeze overnight.
3) Vapor Lock when hot.
4) Intermittent stalling turning corners left, or right...
5) Intermittent stalling when coming off the freeway to a stop sign.
6) A heater that took forever when cold to heat the interior. And a defroster that left a "V" in the windscreen to look through when driving to work freezing.
7) Airconditioning? What's that?
8) Tyres that blew out so regularly it was covered in driver's training.
9) The 'tune up' of points and plugs every 3,000 miles.
10) and on and on and on....
Same goes for an 83 anything compared to a 2013 anything.
Why use 30 year old technology when current technology sacrifices nothing? The AFM or even MAF systems all have response delays inherent in the system which you will not be able to 'tune' out due to limitations of what you can hack using Nistune.
That's just a fact. Quit whining that you made a stupid comment from limited experience or from exuberance. I have to admit that indeed some poor bastard will likely find that statement and it will, sadly, draw weight with them in decisionmaking.
I was wondering how long it would take before this became yet another "Knuckle Duster It's about Me" threadjack...sadly it didn't take as long as I hoped it would.
How sad.There's no cronies here, in fact.....he's on my blocked list!
So much for your bigoted comment. Drop it.
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That is about the dumbest thing I can think of someone doing when asking for advice. You would think you would give us the readings you got, not something you pulled out of your arse.
Good luck wasting your money. The answers you get directly reflect the questions asked.
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And, production date does INDEED dictate year model in the USA! Anything after September of a given year is federally classified as the next years model. It's been that way for some time! You didn't even get the US stuff right.
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Domz, please stop trolling in this thread, it's counterproductive, and your comments are embarrassingly off-base/wrong/not applicable to the subject at hand.
As usual, Alan T is correct on this subject, and I will point out AGAIN my 1978 Fairlady 280Z (S130) was produced in the second week of July 1978, it has no ID Plate on the B-Pillar, it has no VIN on the (right or left side) Dash.
You are insisting on using incorrect market terminology in regards to the vehicle in question. Please stop it, you are doing nobody any favors!
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HKS Type 1
HKS Type 2
Sangyo Kiki (SK)
Cartech
There's 4, any reason not to just buy one?
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"It generally lacks power below 2K RPM, which may be an indication, but not sure."
OK, step 1: it's not a Small Block Chevy, the intended operational range is 3,000-5,000 in daily driving. For spirited driving, 3,500 and on up. Drop a gear, drive it right, and be amazed!
"These numbers point to worn rings, which requires an overhaul."
2: An engine that does not consume oil and is performing well is NOT a candidate for overhaul.
You crack this one open, you ruin it and will end up worse off in 10,000 miles than you are currently.
Run it another 100,000 and then see where it's at...overhauling this engine is pissing $3,500 down the drain for WHAT quantifiable improvement?
You quantify what you gain by the overhaul other than theoretical numbers on a piece of paper.
I will also like to point out something that apparently EVERYBODY else is missing:
YOU ARE AT ALTITUDE, THE COMPRESSION NUMBERS YOU GET WILL BE CONSIDERABLY LOWER THAN AT SEA LEVEL (which seems to be the only numbers anybody is familiar with!)
Leave it alone and drive it. There is nothing wrong with it, and you won't gain anything "overhauling" it!
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Nope, S130's started in June of 1978 at least. My HS130-002XXX is an early July production vehicle.
The black 5 speed 2+2 in my yard like that was given to me...it has rust, but not that bad.
Do NOT assume, ESPECIALLY on a 2+2 that there is a "RACK" on it.... Power, or otherwise. They too could have Recirculating ball steering with a drag link!
And Alan is correct, it was a Fairlady 280Z or Fairlady Z if 2-Litre.
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"without driving around at high RPMs"
This is not a Big Block Chevy, if you consider 3,000 or even 3,500 rpms "High" you're driving the wrong vehicle!
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A GT35R at 17psi is flowing enough air for over 600HP
On a stock head, like Big Phils....you will surge it like a MF!
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Header wraps hold moisture against mild steel headers when lukewarm...and the rust from the outside in much faster.
The internal heat stresses are higher due to above explained phenomenon...coupled with rust flakes forming thinned sections which heat faster and get to melting temperature faster than metal which is thicker, nearby.
And viola! Burn-through!
You can put a propane flame (which is never enough to melt steel, only make it red hot at best) into a 1/2" tube...it glows red.
Now start filing notches in the tubing and watch what happens in the narrowed sections!
Same thing, compounded by the wrapping.
It is not recommended for mild steel, untreated headers as most people won't accept replacing them every few years as a comsumable item.
Hell, most people won't do that with spark plug wires!
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Don't get me started!
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So buying any of the at least four different plenums available in the automotive used parts world is not suitable to your needs why?
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"Now?"
Hahahaha! "Now since 1985!"
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So I'm taking it most guys don't run a fused 8 or 10ga to the back on a terminal block, and use the stock FP wires as a relay trigger to aftermarket pumps using 10 or 12 ga feeder wires?
Huh...
I found that big feed wire on a fusible link was great for taking power to all sorts of gadgets and accessories back there...
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How does anything you just posted refute or clarify that which I posted?
Let me restate what I think you just said:
"My 2.9 Turbo is less powerful off boost than my 3.1 Turbo off boost."
Uh....and?
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The Management Style and Quality System in place at Foxxcon is a bit Atypical in China at this point.
I regularly meet with a sourcer in the Business Lounge at Pudong that did work with MSD and several other large component part makers...the stories were interesting.
Having to support Foxxconn as one of our largest customers (they use A LOT of air!) I see the operation firsthand as a guy working backstage in basic utilities. I can tell you what kind of mindset a company has when I work in their physical plant. Foxxcon is atypical in China, trust me on that!
Fan took out new radiator!!!
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Water pump bearing failure and motor mounts allowing excess fore-aft movement.
If a clutch locks up, then the over-rev possibility (clutch limits fan to either 2,500 or 4,000 rpms, forget witch--it's in the FSM) can allow tip flexing which in conjunction with motor mounts moving like mentioned above can score round arcs in the core...or outright cut tubes.
Generally, though, it's a WP Bearing letting the shaft come out axially....the fan acts like a propeller and pulls it right into the core.....
As mentioned, if you use a ZX Fan on an S30, you're asking for a problem, insufficient clearances. Look at the stock distance from the radiator core from fan to core in each chassis and you see them offset about the proper distance. Match that, and short of a bearing failure the two shall never meet!