RS Speed

These were printed directly on to aluminum and I think they can only do flat surfaces, the hump in the middle might cause a problem on the 26. The flat section in the middle cover looks like it could be done.

Been working on a few different things, snapped a few pics. One is my 300zx gauges conversion and the other is the valve cover graphics. This guy designs skateboards and hes wanting to move into valve covers so were using my car as a demo sorta. Should be in modified mag within the next few months but I'll keep it updated. Anyhoot on to some pics! It depicts me in the background (big eyes)looking into a test tube and making some kind of an RB concoction LOL, I love my logo connecting the two valve covers Engine bays been getting pretty dirty with all the daily driving lol... gonna clean her up before the photo shoot and I got a new battery since this pic... thing was toast. Basic setup of the gauges out of the housing, its all been trimmed now but I snapped this pic during the construction phase Note that 300zx's dont have odometers on the speedos, its off in the corner of the cluster.... this took some tinkering to get right lol Back shot of the rpm gauge.... To the right of the picture is my old RPM gauge which is actually mounted to the datsun face and calibrated to read properly with the rb motor and datsun face... Its for sale if anyone wants a RPM gauge which works on the RB motor and looks like OEM [end plug] lol

I've been around a few cars with those greddy knock offs and some real greddys. The one you posted a link to actually looked pretty decent in person, No joke smoother casting then a greddy in and out, only problem was the coolant pipe didn't line up to well with the bolts holes under the manifold. Another type I saw was HORRIBLE which literally had casting flaking off the damn manifold, looks like the one you posted a link to but uglier... just make sure they are sending you something that looks like the pic in the ebay auction and not the even worse knockoff lol.

Looks like you are off to a great start, keep us posted on your progress!

Yeah I love these things , they are problematic at times (read ahead lol) but pretty rewarding. Sadly last night my RMS started leaking and its building a puddle between the motor/trans.... think im gonna shut her down till after the new year to pull the trans and do my rearend upgrades at once. On a bright note I walked on a 2010 carrera S yesterday at only 12 psi so I'm pretty happy despite the seal leaking. Cars riding nice, the seals are a great addition to the car, Id say maybe a 92 prelude LOL bently was a bit of a stretch hahaha About the magazine.... Modified mag or superstreet is going to have my car in the January or February issue I'm doing a collaboration with my friend which does graphic design for skateboards and he wants to start doing valvecovers. Were pretty much okayed for early next year but I'll post a thread when I get confirmation for sure

Well I've been driving it around for a week and so far I love it hahaha. I'm having a little boost spike issue so I can't turn the boost up to high since the spike makes me uneasy, Ive got a fix in the works but I havent implemented it yet... just enjoying the car for now. As it is I'm spiking 16 and then it holds ~12. Its a buttload faster at 12 than the car ever was with the NEO turbo at 15. I can't imagine how fun it will be once I get her running clean at a solid 16-17 psi, I think that's as far as I am going to push it on 91 octane/stock block but its silly as it is

Car is sitting oh so nice, i can tell she doesn't wan't to be raised lol.... just listen to her

^^^ Got one of those funnels too, they do a great job of bleeding systems and they are cheap!

It's funny the other day I was thinking how easy these motor bleed when installed in a Z. the radiator is so much higher than the motor, practically bleeds with the motor off lol. On a side note I recall my replacement t-stat for the RB did have that little brass valve and so did my 22re t-stat

Heres a few of mine, aluminum stock and c-channel construction which mimics the factory design.

NEW TURBO IS INSTALLED!!!! sadly its been freezing/raining in SoCal and I've been sick as a dog so I've only driving her 5 miles or so. Hopefully I will go for a quick testdrive after work today and give her a little base tune for the added air. I ended up going with a turbonetics 60-1 on a .63 stage 3 turbine. With the little driving I've done I noticed 12 psi or so around 3k rpm, sounds like a diesel turbo winding down from boost Ill snap some pictures in the next few days when I get a chance, really busy schedule this week. Also thanks to Eric from the forum who dropped off my CV axles at my work place today, as soon as my adapters arrive the CV conversion will be over. I aslo got one of the ron tyler mounts and new bearings so the rear end should feel a LOT better after this step is done. The old goat is really starting to come together. After the CV conversion I need to install the alcohol injection and go put down 400 on a quick dyno session this should hold me off until I re-coop and figure out the next step I need to take. EDIT: I had a few pics on my iphone: This is my buddies turbo but mine is the exact same thing but newer lol, I just didn't snap a picture of mine. His s14 is my Z's sister car, identical engine mods from a to z. the 250sx and 250z together lol (Range Rover backed up into the s14 so excuse the janky front end allignment and carbon hood being held together by RED TAPE!!!)

-10 actually, yes they are the projector type

That thing is awesome!

Oil relocation kits still have an adapter that screws into our oil filter housing so either way you are screwing something I can easily access my filter so I didn't want one but my buddies s14 is using one and its been great. All the oil lines are SS with -an fittings, Headlight are from ebay with a HID conversion.

Heres a good link with some pictures. It seems like its got a protruding device from the throttle body area and the TB to intercooler connector is a little different. The VTC solenoid looks different and some sensor plugs but I'm not really sure which ones. http://www.skyline-owners-club.com/forums/18141-rb-engines-rb20det-rb25det-rb25det-neo-rb26dett.html NEO is 4th one down, Regular rb25det is the 2nd pic

That's the old lady lol, shes quite the catch since she deals with the datsun having as much attention as her but they have to share . She calls it "dotty" the not so Fairlady lol As far as the oil cooler you are going to have to run it with a relocation kit or with a screw on oil filter adapter. Either way they are going to be attaching to your original oil filter location. Reason being is you need to pressurize the system with your oil pump to cause flow through the core. Using the pan wouldn't really do anything, no way of oil getting in or out. Powder coating cost me a whopping $250 although the guy regretted quoting me that much since my whole subframe and suspension is the same color I did my friends engine the same way in orange and they charged $250 for just the engine pieces... still not a bad price. I actually installed my seal kit last night... wish I did it sooner the car feels like a bently lol... well maybe a 91 civic but its a step up from a dry rotted 71 datsun lol Internals are stock for now, I'm only planning on 400whp on high boost with alky and around 350 street on 91 so hopefully shell last a few years. I tune my own cars on the conservative side so I'm hoping for the best. I ran my unopened sr20 at 300whp for 4 years so I've got faith in nissan motors as long as you are doing your end

First time out at button we ran the short route to the esses and we didnt run the dogleg on the back straight. I personallly like this configuration, it had more technical turns and less stress on the brakes. I had the L28 at the time with drums in the rear and regular pads up front and I managed 4 laps before the brakes would fade. This was the type where the pedal felt fairly normal but the car just was NOT slowing down. Second time out there we ran the long straight in the rear and the long straight to the hairpin for the esses. Granted I was running the RB25 this time around my brakes faded at the end of the FIRST lap, barely stopping in time for the hairpin. I knocked the boost down to 8 psi and pretty much ran the course braking really early the rest of the day. I'd love to run some kind of a bracket and a larger front rotor but I can seem to find one available, I guess I'm gonna try some rear pads, prop valve and go from there. I just hate burning 400 on track days where I can't have fun because of mechanical limitations.

I was planning on doing pads anyways, I might as well do that first and adjust based on that. Got any recommendation for rear pads, Its for 85 maxima calipers (same as 240sx I believe) I was thinking about hawk ht-10 Also does a pad generally overheat or is a disc more prone to overheating on the track. I've got motul brake fluid, cooling ducts pivoting with the rotor and vented rotors which are crossdrilled. I'm not sure if the disc is too small and maybe that's the guy causing the fade? Maybe its a shiesty rotor I got off ebay which some guy is crossdrilling in his bathroom? Maybe its because the rear isn't doing enough and the front is getting overworked? I just want to sort out all bugs in the braking system. I'm relatively new to racing on an actual track and the braking demand at button willow in certain configurations really plays a toll on my braking system. The track really brings out the flaws in a car but I'm loving the challenge. I just don't have pockets deep enough to buy everything I wan't at once lol

That's awesome so there is hope after all. Do you think I should just gut it first and see if there is too much brakes in the rear and then see if I need the prop valve. Or is it going to be way to much pressure in the rear from your personal experience. Thanks btw you have been a great help

Only thing toyota brake related on their website is the basic vented disc upgrade. I already have that and was wonding if there was some bracket which used an even bigger disc with toyota 4x4 calipers

hmmm i must have read through and missed something earlier. You mention the splitter is the acutal proportioning valve and I mentioned I bypassed it. What I meant was I bypassed that little valve right before the tee (i believe it has something to do with holding pressure for drum brakes) So there is a proportioning valve in the T itself which splits the rear circuit to left/right? If so Im gonna gut that puppy and see if it starts putting more pressure on the rear, then I could always run a valve to reduce the rear pressure if its locking early. Can you confirm its the splitter T in the rear that does the proportioning and not the little thing right before the T which I bypassed?

Does anyone make an adapter to run a larger rotor on the vented 4x4 calipers?

I couldn't see a z just some pictures of rust LOL head for the HILLS!!!!!

anyone?

Don't care if its broken or dirty, I want to hock out the gauges and retrofit into my 240z, wanting to pay around 50 shipped.