jakeoster

Hey guys I just wanted some thoughts on making a 240z tank accept an in tank fuel pump. Im running an RB25DET and need to get something figured out. I have an Aeromotive stealth fuel cell with an in tank pump but after looking at it its going to cost too much money, require too much hacking, and kill the "sleeperness" that my Z currently possesses. Why do I want to do this? 1. Retain OEM stock look (keep away fuzz, ricers, claim my 240z is completely stock from 1972 after pulling on punk kids that seem to gravitate towards my Z). 2. Eliminate or at least significantly reduce the highly annoying buzz my external pump currently emits 3. Keep fuel pump cooler 5. Keep fuel consistently going to my engine under hard driving circumstances I did a search but did'nt come up with much. Thanks.

Also I still have a miss, tuner said he thinks the issue is the coil pack harness. So I have to play with that when I have time. Also need to fix my fuel system as the pump seems to pump air when it feels like it. Edit: Upon closer inspection, I am not running the correct spark plug nor the correct heat range. Gap seems to be ok at .28IN however. Right now I have BKR6EIX plugs on the car and they should be BCPR7EIX. He said to check it and gave me the NGK part number I should be running but I never got around to it until now as Ive been busy. Ill have to pick up a set when I have the money x]

The trouble is it isnt mounted =p And as for the cost effective option, I don't have tube bending or aluminum welding capabilities and after considering having the Z trailered to some shop, materials, and labor I said forget it and just got the McKinney one.

RB25DET Series 2 Apexi Power Fc with hand commander tuned by Koji at Drift Speed GReddy Profec B Spec 2 boost controller ~10 psi Apexi Power intake Nismo Single disk clutch 91 California octane fuel Super Spark coil packs 3" straight through exhaust Summit racing electric fuel pump McKinney Motorsports Front Mounted Intercooler Injectors and MAF are pretty much maxed out at this point. Still has some issues but other then that its running a **** LOAD better then it was! Ill get a vid up when I can. Whatcha guys think?

Z at the shop with added shop dogs haha. Picking it up tomorrow morning

Well the tuner discovered that there was no freaking gasket between the exhaust manifold and the T3 inlet on the hot side of the turbo! This was causing a major exhaust leak and he said it was throwing off the O2 sensor as well as losing exhaust pressure to spool the turbo. He's made a lot of progress and fixed a ton of things. He was able to get the turbo comp housing welded and when he pressure tested it it wasn't leaking, so that's good. Still hoping to get the car by Friday and hopefully nothing else comes up as I'm running out of money! Haha

I ended up having the tuner sort out the non-saving on the Power Fc because I sort of lost my confidence to mess with electrical surrounding the ecu after I fried one ecu in the past. There was numerous issues with the swap that he addressed. Ranging from tach not working, cracked comp housing on the turbo, and an issue that kept VCT from activating. The turbo wouldn't really make boost past 1 or 2 psi only when I was really flogging it, if I wasn't then it was mostly in vacuum. It made weird noises when making boost and seemed a bit flat in hind sight in addition to taking a long time to build boost.. I figured the internals of the turbo were out but I didn't think it would be a cracked comp housing. He says the internals of it appear to be fine. I should have the car back later this week. What's funny is I thought the car was pretty fast and it wasn't even making boost, running rich due to the MAF not reading the right volume of air due to the crack in the comp housing, and no variable cam timing.

Car is no longer for sale and that wasn't my manifold but it will be for sale. As far as an update, the tuner called me the other day while he was checking for boost leaks and said that there's a weird crack in the compressor housing of the turbo that is causing the turbo to lose nearly all boost pressure. I'm running a MAF so this means that my ecu thought my engine was getting more fuel then it really was causing it to run pig rich. He's also hooked up some things that hindered the VCT from working. He's going to try and weld the crack, if he can't then I'm going to source a good comp housing.

Dropped the Z off at Drift Speed yesterday, everything went well and I won't be picking it up till either Thursday or Friday next week. Koji, the tuner, is a real cool guy that knows his stuff. He's doing: Cleaning up the wiring Checking the sensors Checking for boost leaks Checking the o2 sensor and moving it's location to a more optimal location Installing a wide band if need be Adding and changing relays to more reliable genuine Nissan ones Adding in a relay to allow the Power FC to save data Deciding if my MAF location needs to be changed to a more optimal location Wiring in my electric fan Wiring in my Tachometer Baseline dyno run Dyno tune Final dyno run.

Loaded up the Z for tomorrow to head to the tuners. I'll post up how things turn out.

Yeah, made a huge difference. It still has some small random misfires at idle but I think that will be tuned out on the Power FC. Very satisfied with the difference.

Oem is more expensive than aftermarket. I went with a set of Super Sparks from RAW Brokerage and am pleased with them.

Well I installed some new Super Spark coil packs from RAW Brokerage. They have the RB running a hell of a lot better! The difference is very noticeable everywhere. Its idling better, running smoother, pulling stronger into boost, etc. Video of stock ecu on new coil packs: I have an appointment to take the Z up to Orange County to a shop called Drift Speed this coming Friday. They are going to tune my Power FC and hopefully fix a few bugs while getting more power out of the engine. The tuner's name is Koji and according to a few people Ive talked to and APexi themselves, hes one of the top tuners in the country for the the Power FC. Should be fun Took a friend for a spin today and decimated some cocky guy in a Scion TC which was fun, didnt get a chance to film it though.

Rebuild RB26...

Ill take a look at it, thanks for the help guys.

Yea, it's kinda funky. I set my rev limiter to 6000 from 6600 as a test and when I power off the car and restart it, the rev limiter goes back to 6600 From the Power FC FAQ; "Any changes made to settings on the Apexi PowerFC are written in memory and then commited to NVRAM when the car is powered off. When the PowerFC detects power loss to IGN it saves its state into NVRAM. This usually takes around 1 second. Once this is complete the unit is safe to be powered off (happens automatically). If your car has had an engine swap it is possible and likely that the standard ECCS wiring has been altered or is not the same as factory. This may mean that when the IGN is turned off the PowerFC doesn't have time to save its changes. This results in any changes made to be 'lost' when the power is off. Below is a diagram on how it should be wired in with the ECCS relay. The diagram is suited for the RB26 ECU so if you have a different version look up your corresponding ECU's diagram for the matching wires."

I went ahead and ordered the Raw Brokerage Super Spark coilpacks. Considering getting a tune done within the next week or so. Considered LS2 coilpacks but I decided against it as I didn't want to add to my already growing list of stuff to do. I want to actually reverse the trend and spend more time driving the car instead of wrenching on it haha. I'll let you guys know how they work out. Also! Does anyone know what too do about the computer relay or something? I'm not very good with electrical and the issue is my Power FC won't save data to memory. I've read it's due to a lack of a relay or something along those lines.

When it's dark I can see some sparking from the coilpacks. Also with the Power FC hooked up I can see that I'm getting ~1300mV at about 1200rpm idle from the MAF and the Power FC FAQ page recommends that you get a stable 1100mV. Would this constitute a problem with the MAF?

Hey guys, Im running an RB25DET S2 on stock boost (7 psi) and when the engine is idling and occasionally through the rev band I'm getting a misfire. It misfires quite a bit while idling. I'm running the recommended NGK plugs gapped at .28 in. as recommended. It seems like it happens more often when the weather is colder. I've read that the coil packs seem to have an issue arcing out, but I have heard many different opinions on that. I have heard that some people wrap them up in tape and use some sort of epoxy, but I have also heard that that can make them run too hot and cause problems with them getting overheating and it doesn't last long. I have also read that grounding them some how can help. What do you guys think? Id rather not buy new ones if I dont have to... Thanks in advance.

Everything should be clearly labeled as to what goes where on the McKinney harness. Get ahold of a 240z 260z 280z Haynes manual for what wires are what, it's nice to have.

No, but that's on my to do list. It doesn't run good with the Power FC hooked up and there's a flat spot in the higher RPMs so it's not running that great. But nonetheless it's pretty damn fast.

Got it running, heres some videos; Got my Power FC back that was repaired by APexi, its working great. Couple of pictures...

Im hoping to sell it.

Would be a hell of a lot of fun but since I just got the car going Im still working out kinks and am not confident in venturing out that far in her yet. I will be out and about soon enough once I get everything sorted out though. Is Mt. Diablo that road that the Dodge Viper flew off the road while racing a Ferrari F355? Theres a video of it on Youtube and that name sounds like the one from the video.

Turn of events, do not need to sell the ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ. As a bonus I got it off the jacks and running today. Took some videos with a friend :D :D Tunnel