jakeoster

Check for boost leaks in the intercooler piping and couplers. Something might not be tightened down properly and it blows open under load or something.

1. Haven't heard of them personally so idk 2. Many people have success with them but sometimes they require resurfacing and stuff to work right. 3. Other source these days would be either 200zr mounts since your in Japan and may be able to locate them or custom. 4. Shouldn't have any legal issues bringing it back to the states.

Stick with the RB IMO since you are so far into it anyway. It sets you apart from having "just another v8".

What's detering you from running a simple boost controller? Would be easier to find and most likely a lot cheaper. Then you have the flexibility for if you ever feel the itch to crank the boost up a little bit.

Asked and received 11k for it. The guy that bought it is planning of posting here so it shouldn't disappear entirely.

I'm relocating for work and I couldn't bring the car with me.

Well, I sold the car this morning to a fellow longtime S30 and RB enthusiast. It's in good hands. Just wanted to say its been a pleasure being on this forum and it is one of the best I've been on. Couldnt have done the build without your guy's input and guidance. I don't know what the future holds and maybe someday I'll build another RB Z car. I'll continue to lurk around and answer questions and give my input. Good luck on all your guy's builds!

Car is sold.

Yeah, unfortunately I have to part with the car. I have been presented with an opportunity to find good work that I cannot pass up which will require me to relocate. Maybe I can manage to build an RB30 or 26 Z in the future when I am making more money and am better settled. It's been a fun ride! Car is for sale: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/esd/cto/2690729721.html

Hello, This site has been a great resource for me over the past years. I have donated in the past but am a bit strapped for cash at this time. I would like to support the forum and gain access to posting in the classifieds and I was wondering if it would be possible to lower the entry donation to $10? That would be a lot more doable for me at this time. Thanks for your consideration Hbz staff!

I've got a dual valve hks one that's closed until it releases pressure and it still has issues. If you want a smooth running car and want to maximize power, don't fool around with the MAF. I got the ricer out of me after driving mine around with an vented bov and it's just not worth it. If you don't want any issues, put the MAF where it's supposed to be and recirc. Wish I would have done these two things from the beginning.

Hmm, I need to find someone that has one so I can compare haha

I guess I'm going to be the first one to attempt this... Deciding between the Tomei Type A or B Poncam.

Sold my fuel cell. Hbz member RTz was kind enough to supply me with a CAD drawing of his in-tank sump box. The plan is in-tank sump stock 240z fuel tank with a Bosch 044 pump. Everything will be in-tank and contained looking stock. I'm also going to install a Nismo fuel pressure regulator to hold back the high flow of the new Bosch pump.

Ah ok, didn't realize you had a series 1. You should be able to unscrew your little trumpet thing on your bov and I'm pretty sure Greddy includes one you can put on that allows you to slip a vacuum hose on it. Your going to want to run that hose between your MAF and turbo inlet, but it's important to make the bung as close as you can to the turbo inlet away from the MAF in addition to physically angling the bung at like a 30-45* angle towards the turbo inlet then clamp the hose on the bung that runs from the bov. Make sure to leave clearance for the silicon coupler when you put the bung on the intake pipe though or else you won't be able to couple your newly made intake pipe to the turbo inlet. That's the best way to do it.

Hey guys, This is kind of a weird question. But when I had my transmission off a while back I noticed that the clutch disk said Nismo on it and I snapped a picture of it and I kind of forgot about it. While I was going through my pictures folder I came across this picture and noticed the part number was visible (RS240). I was mostly interested in what torque it could hold but much to my surprise I found that the clutch disk was part of a kit called Super Copper Mix which includes the disk, reinforced cover, reinforced hardware, bearing, and a lightened flywheel. Is it possible to verify the flywheel by just feel alone without dropping the engine? What would the characteristics of a lightened flywheel on a lightly modified RB25 be? My diff is an r200 out of a 78' 280z with a 3.4 ratio I think, if that would effect the feel of the flywheel. I've never been in, much less driven, a car with a lightened flywheel so I'm not really sure what to look for. Thanks.

No, it should be like an orange or redish sticker. Green is for the RB20. If your running stock ecu, you have to make sure that you get the right one or else it isn't going to work. And remember what I said about how the MAF has to be positioned. It is important. Your also going to have to recirc your blow off valve unless you like your car shooting flames out the exhaust and making a loud bang noise when you let off after load in addition to dying while inching forward at stop signs and such. Believe me, these things get very annoying very fast and your car loses efficiency which is not worth the little pssh noise.

Confirmed. As for the boost controller, I dont think you have it hooked up right. Mine is hooked up with one end on the pipe after the inter cooler which I had to drill a hole into the pipe and put a barb fitting in it. The other end is on the waste gate actuator. Im getting my vacuum from the plenum. I hooked it up according to the instructions supplied with the GReddy boost controller.

Hey guys, I'm mapping out what I want to do with my car and getting a plan together. After having my car tuned and running correctly; I discovered that I really like the immediate response of the stock turbo. It spools so fast that it feels like a supercharger haha, it's fun. Here's what I'm planning on adding: Higher flowing injectors 300zx MAF Bosch 044 fuel pump Nismo adjustable fuel regulator That's in addition to the Power Fc and all the other basic bolt on stuff I already have. Would an exhaust side adjustable cam gear and an aftermarket camshaft do anything of significance with this setup? I figured I would leave the intake side alone due to it having VCT and people seem to conclude that the exhaust side leaves more to be desired. Not looking for substantial horsepower gains, just improvements while keeping the car responsive for mountain runs and auto cross while retaining reliability. Thanks!

Check and clean your mass airflow sensor? Also with the revving and dying that usually occurs when you dont recirculate your blow off valve.

The question is do you want to (or have the capabilities) to hack it up if need be? Comparing it to the McKinney RB26 downpipe it looks different. I dont know anything about the McKinney one but what I do know is it was designed with a LHD s30 with an RB26 installed. Just be aware that you'll be rolling the dice with that eBay one.

The way I see it is if you are looking for that much power then you need a stout car to back it up. 500-600hp is in the upper echelon of Ferrari, Porsche, Lamborghini, Corvette, Viper etc and those are in $100,000 range. And the Z has a pretty significant power to weight ratio over all these cars. Not to mention the Z is a 30+ year old car and only came with like 120hp from the factory. I'm pretty sketchy with using the stock half shafts for now on my build and I'm only in the 260hp range. Generally a **** load of horsepower in a classic car with a fragile rear end that is rare in your area is not really a good idea. Pay up now or pay later with added damage. It's your choice though.

Vlsd requires quite a bit of custom work to get it installed and is not a very common differential to find. They only came out of an "SS" version of the Z31. Also the fluid inside them tends to lose efficiency in use and I think the fluid breaks down over time. The best balance between no maintence and performance under hard driving is the helical type LSD.

With the power your looking for the stock Z axles will not put up with that kind of torque for long. However, it all depends on how you drive it I guess. Hard launches will certainly kill them pretty quick and probably even just heavy footed driving after a while would be enough. What kills drive train components is shock and torque. Im not sure what the difference is between an R180 and an R200 if both had a Quaife LSD and a CV conversion done. You might be able to get away with your R180 with the Quaife and the CV axle conversion done, but I think an R200 would be a safer bet. Im running an R200 in my car from a 78' 280z. It is a very big and strong looking diff, however it's weakness is its internals and it is not LSD. Dropping in a Quaife makes it a very stout setup. Couple it with a CV conversion and you have yourself a rear end that can take quite a bit of abuse. You should certainly be looking into a CV axle conversion from Modern Motorsports though.

I don't think so seeing as the VG is a V6 and the RB is an L6 as you know, but I dont know that for fact. If you need one click here. Those guys are great, Ive ordered a number of parts from them and have been satisfied with them every time. I bought my harmonic damper from them for my RB25.