jakeoster

Got this in the mail today, has an in-tank Aeromotive A1000 pump. Would a 70psi regulator do ok with this pump? If I'm not mistaken the fuel rail needs 30psi to be right.

Heres the big piece of the puzzle that UPS just dropped off from Summit Racing, an Aeromotive A1000 Stealth Fuel Cell. After some thought I just said forget it and just went the whole hog. Shes a beaut! Its a 15 gallon fuel cell with a built in in-tank Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump, 100 micron pre filter, baffling, and fuel gauge sending unit.

Yea, sucks. I'm just going to to a disk brake conversion on my rears due to the lack of a mechanical parking brake. Also rear AZC disks kinda seems like overkill to me haha. The fronts are great though.

Thanks for that adapter. I was leaning towards the Nismo because I have my boost controller hooked up to that (I think? Arnt home to look at it right now). How would I hook up my boost controller with the Aeromotive?

Pulled the fuel tank in preparation for the upgrade. Going to do a full upgrade of my fuel delivery setup. I'll post when I have it.

So if I go with an aeromotive would I have to eliminate the stock one on the fuel rail? I'll have the fuel starvation issue sorted out, no more messing around with that. As for the Power FC I sent it to Apexi and they are going to repair it.

Well I got to drive the car for 20 or so miles so I guess it's time to get serious. My fuel system is a steaming load of you know what. No protection from fuel starvation, loud buzz, jury rigged fuel lines, fumes in cabin. It's already leaking after 20 miles. I'm done screwing around. I'm going to be doing a full overhaul and I had a question about the fuel pressure regulator. I know there's one on the fuel rail already. But I'm going to upgrade to a high flowing, high pressure pump and was wondering if I should get the Nismo FPR that goes on the fuel rail or an external one, such as an Aeromotive. Does the Nismo have the ability to regulate a high pressure, high flowing pump or is it only suited for a mild upgrade such as a walbro? Thanks.

Sure; click here

Wow this project is moving fast!

Well, I got into contact with Apexi and they have been really cool to deal with. Sending in some paperwork and should have this sorted out.

On my 280z I had to cut off the stock trans mounting ears and the bracket bolted to the frame rail. Now on the 240z I assumed (btw never ever assume) that I had to cut off the trans mounts and didn't really think about it. So I did, and needless to say it didn't take long for me to figure out I messed up. So one side I welded the ear back on and the speedo sensor side I made a bracket and it clears the speed sensor. I don't think I have any vibrations, I would imagine they would be very noticeable if I did and I haven't noticed anything thus far. What I do have a problem with is I have to figure out what's wrong with my alt. wiring as it doesn't charge the battery and the Z died on me on the freeway and I ended up having it towed home. For some reason my turn signals quit working on me, and I'm not sure how to get my tach to work or if I have fried the tach signal inside the ecu. I have to come up with some kind of surge tank setup for the fuel system and finish everything up. Runs good, still needs some work though.

Thanks bud, I tried to contact them through different means and did not get any answer. I'll give this number a call soon.

Check wastegate spring if it always pins itself at exactly 3 psi and doesn't deviate. Use starter fluid and spray it around where the silicone couplers are to see if there's a pressure leak. Depending on how your intake ducting is, if it's rubber, I have heard of that collapsing under boost and cutting off the airflow to the turbo. Check out the coilpacks and spark plugs if it's hesitating. That's all I can think of, good luck.

Looking good, I like the little extension you made to cover the front wheels.

Are you using that radiator out of a Datsun B210 or something similar? I tried one that looks almost identical to that on my first build and it failed horribly. Edit: looks like you cut and moved the inlet on a stock Z one.

Nice build! Is that a Ruf in the background in the first few pics? It looks reeeeeally nice.

I used to run straight 3" with a 4" hks muffler. It sounds good but you couldn't even have a conversation in the car without raising your voice. It would also set off peoples car alarms who were parked on the street when I passed. The deep sound would resonate off all the surrounding buildings and what not making it quite loud. Basically I just came to the realization that this is a street car first and a race car second, it's a far better streetable setup. Still sounds great though!

Do you have their contact information? I want to get it fixed.

I sent apexi an email, I heard Rayyap got his fixed by him. I have a stock ecu that I've been using so I can still run the engine. The LoveFab is for LHD cars so we are gonna give it a shot and see how it goes. Today I wanted to get the exhaust done as the two 90* bends I ordered arrived. I started to fit everything up and realized I needed the two 90* to be expanded so I could fit them together. There's a guy in town that does exhausts so I decided to go over and check him and he expanded them for me for 10 bucks. He was a real cool guy to talk to. So I get home and start to work and I realize I didn't have the skills to make it work as it was a little damaged from the accident. So I decided to pull it off the jacks and drive it over to have him check it out. This was my first drive in the Z! She ran pretty good over there but was extremely loud as I had it running off the downpipe. So I got there and he checks it out, and for $200 he did the whole exhaust and added a muffler. Came out great, nice and under the radar At the shop on four wheels for the first time in months. Muffler, it's a flowmaster. The Magnaflow resonator I had bought. Muffler It sounds pretty good, it's a lot more civilized now and still has that RB grunt and scream. The engine pulls wayyyy better then the 280z did on boost and runs a whole lot smoother. I got some things to finish up but I'll get a nice crusin' video up as soon as I can. Great day today

The Power Fc and hand controller I got second hand turned out to be fried. I immediantly cracked it open and didnt smell anything so i know it wasnt my fault in addition to me running the car off the stock ecu with no issues prior. The ecu won't start the car at all even though my stock ecu starts the engine with zero hesitation. The hand controller won't even light up or show the apexi logo. I opened the computer up and can only visibly see one small capacitor or something that appears to be fried. This really sets back my plans. I don't know what I'm gonna do...

Thanks, but I ended up reusing it turned out ok.

I have them, they are MSAs.

Quick and dirty first (actually second) start with the open down pipe. I wanted to film the official first start but while testing to see if I had the starter and stuff hooked up correctly it caught me by surprise and started up as if I had just taken her around the block. It was cool, but I didnt get a chance to film it Still got some things to do until shes road worthy, haven't been out for a drive yet, but shes running

Well, that didn't take too long. I got her to start today. She's not road worthy yet, but she made a little noise for the first time in a year. What's left: 1. Clean up wiring 2. Mount fuse block 3. Fill transmission with oil 4. Weld on muffler 5. Get the gauges working 6. Make intercooler brackets 7. What ever little hurddy gurdy mish mash crap that comes up I'll get a video up when I can

Nah, haven't started it yet hoping to real soon though. What I have left to do is finish my fuse block and wire that, make brackets for my intercooler, wire my gauges, fill my fluids, and finish my fuel return line and it's time for first start. Getting there...