trackzpeed

I did take time to grind off the top of the bolts flush with jam nut........... It also mushroomed the thread a bit which will create its own type of lock. Ill try to find the numbers but they were easy to find and source on their site. best of luck Jim

New hardware. 3/8-24 3/4 inch with grade 8 jam nuts and red lock tight torqued to 50lbs.

New hardware. 3/8-24 3/4 inch with grade jam nuts and red lock tight torqued to 50lbs.

better price with silvermine for the same product...... Edan at silvermine is a great guy and I use his products as much as possible. consistently a great product for a consistent fair price. I used the futofab TC rods as I liked their design better for heavy loads in race conditions. Check my build log... there are some pics on there somewhere. Jim

I'm running the Silvermine units with the futofab TCA super stout and plenty adjustable. Huge difference in handling on my car and it saved me some $ going this route. I just installed the TTT rear LCA and the product is top notch. I've always had good success with TTT FWIW. Jim

Ill post some pics in my build log when I get them in....... Happy to help. Jim

New hardware from Carr McMaster. I'm using hardened 3/8-16 bolts with lock material on the threads and thin grade 8 nuts on the back side of the flange. The hardware they supply will never work..... the stuff I sourced will hold up fine and the adapter is machined to hub centric around the diff stub axle so shear won't be a problem Make sure your bearing surface is 32mm and not 30 on your wheel stub axles. DSS is under the impression there are two sizes for the s30 and they sent me the smaller. I've been building Z's for 30 years and that's news to me..... but I'm giving them a chance to make it right. Jim

Crappy pics but I got my TTT LCA's installed. Great and stout product. Amazed at how flimsy the stock LCA feel out of the car.

Thanks..... I'm going to give them a chance to make this right, if they can't, you are my first call.

Update..... Just to be fair. Lee at DSS is working to fix the problem. Apparently they sent me the wrong stub axles and will make the situation right ASAP. Updates to follow as the "fix" unfolds. Jim

Update..... Just to be fair. Lee at DSS is working to fix the problem. Apparently they sent me the wrong stub axles and will make the situation right ASAP. Updates to follow as the "fix" unfolds.

I have come to realize that DSS stands for Drive Shit Shop not Drive Shaft Shop. I purchased their full bolt on axle kit and stub axles rated to 800 hp. Absolutely none of their "bolt on" product bolts on my Z. The adapter to diff stub axle is designed wrong and the hardware they sent will never fit....... After 3 weeks of doing my own research and sourcing my own hardware I finally came up with a solution to make the adpter work and fit albeit with ZERO input or help from DSS. Tonight, I went to test fit the new OEM bearings on the new wheel stub axles from DSS and they slop all around! The bearing surface on their stub axles measures 30mm and my stock stubs are 32mm. I am so freakin pissed right now! My car is totally torn down and nothing DSS sent me fits or is compatible with my 240Z. DSS part numbers are DAR-1 and DAR-WHEEL......... DO NOT BUY THIS CRAP! The only thing bolt on about it is that it bolts to itself beautifully. To bad it just won't bolt into a Z as advertised and the tech support doesn't know jack squat about Datsuns or its own product to help. Now I get the joy of trying to get my money back..... Oh joy! Im warning the Z community to buyer beware. This has been a terrible experience. Jim

I have come to realize that DSS stands for Drive Shit Shop not Drive Shaft Shop. I purchased their full bolt on axle kit and stub axles rated to 800 hp. Absolutely none of their "bolt on" product bolts on my Z. The adapter to diff stub axle is designed wrong and the hardware they sent will never fit....... After 3 weeks of doing my own research and sourcing my own hardware I finally came up with a solution to make the adpter work and fit albeit with ZERO input or help from DSS. Tonight, I went to test fit the new OEM bearings on the new wheel stub axles from DSS and they slop all around! The bearing surface on their stub axles measures 30mm and my stock stubs are 32mm. I am so freakin pissed right now! My car is totally torn down and nothing DSS sent me fits or is compatible with my 240Z. DSS part numbers are DAR-1 and DAR-WHEEL......... DO NOT BUY THIS CRAP! The only thing bolt on about it is that it bolts to itself beautifully. To bad it just won't bolt into a Z as advertised and the tech support doesn't know jack squat about Datsuns or its own product to help. Now I get the joy of trying to get my money back..... Oh joy! Jim

Very nice. I left my dash in and it was PIA to mount PCM and run wiring. You've got a great build going.

You are seriously committed to this car. Can't wait to see the finished product. Nice work.

Sorry guys. It seems the video won't play with the new site format....... I'll have to get a Vimeo clip posted later. Edit- It plays fine on my PC just not mobile stuff.... I am such a techno dufus!

IMG_2290.MOV IMG_2291.MOV A couple of quick clips from my last race of the season. And the finished fuel cell product with proper under structure and lid/cover. I was running my mock up stuff for a year without a problem but this is much better and stronger. Time to tear into the rear end LCA's and axles. I'll be moving up in tire size at the rear as well from 255 to 275 17's. Found a tire that will work and will help with the much needed grip. Jim

Last race of the season for me tomorrow. I didn't get to run as much as I'd like..... family comes first but I was consistently top 5 on street tires. I'll post video when the day is done and post updates on my axle and suspension swap in the off season. Still love this car.... LS swap was the best car decision I've made in a very long time. Jim

Anyone want to add new and updated info to this list? After I completed my swap, it's too hard to keep up with all of the changes out there, but this list can still be helpful for many JCI- Way more positive feedback than not.... Difficult fitment seems to related more to a tired Z-car than kit quality. Works with JTR headers and low mount alternator location. Very complete kit with a build manual (although some feel manual is not that great) and most of the goodies to get your LS1 Z on the road. A proven kit all in all. Dingo- Does work with JTR and CX headers and no change to steering rod.... Trans mount is a pick of everyone else. Uses stock Z mount locations for good support but needs a high mount alternator bracket to work.... Dingo, speedway, and others sell the bracket for less that $200... Ive also posted a link to "nasty z28" for a cheap high mount alternative. Easy motor mount install but after that your on your own to figure out the rest. With the Hybrid community, it is very doable. CXR- I have a complete build with this kit in a 240z, and it was a pretty easy journey for me with hand tools in my garage.... Measure 10X and install once. check my build log for more info. CX keeps adding to their kit for completeness.... Currently with all mounts and full exhaust with LT headers. I am using a low mount alternator without clearance issues. I chose a custom Y back 3inch exhaust.... saved some $ and had my choice of muffler. Rumor has it that CX is working on a driveline as well for their kit, I cut down my aluminum Camaro shaft . The headers are angled to work with their Y pipe so take that into consideration if you buy those alone. Hawks- Only works with their LT headers from what I can tell....... They offer a trans mount that welds in versus all the other bolt ins... I love to have some feedback from a completed and running build. Hokes performance: beautiful stuff.... Don't know of any complete builds or cost, but worth looking into if your serious about your car. According to his site, the Cxr long tube headers work with his mount kit. DIY- Cheap and easy but you need to dial in placement. I'm leery of Z frame unibody strength not tied to a crossbar. Quite a few have been done with success so I would love to hear some feedback from hard driver / track guys.

I believe the CX racing headers work with Hokes kit....... It's been awhile since I communicated with Austin hoke but I recall the CX and hawkes both work with his mounts... Not 100% on that. I'm getting to dang old to remember this stuff lol. I also believe that info is in the "facts not opinion" LS swap thread. Jim

I'm using the stock volt meter with LS1..... I didn't do anything special though. My harness from wiring specialties required a hot, a ground and a keyed hot to hook up and I grabbed all that from the engine bay. When I fired it up the voltmeter worked like stock. Maybe I was just lucky?.... Not sure if that helps your dilemma. Jim

These are the larger 108mm 930cv joints. They should hold up fine for my LS1 swap... I'm putting down around 350 to the wheels so no worries. I went with the DSS half shafts cause I used there 300M stub axles with 108 mm 930 companion flanges which was my concern for failure on the track. I believe the R200 CLSD diff stub will hold up fine too. I'm not a 1/4 mile guy and I rarely if ever perform dump clutch burn outs. AutoX and road course for me..... And I can roast the tires any time I please with my right foot only. I've only worked with Mike at DSS..... He initially gave me the "we'll get it figured out and working" line, but has since offered no real solutions and failed to answer numerous emails since. At this point, I don't trust them to half ass this thing so I'm going to fix it right myself. Jim

There is a design problem with the DSS adapters. DSS didn't mill them to bolt up from the inside of the CV however provided hardware with nyloc nuts to bolt through the adapter and nut up on the backside of the diff stub axle flange. There is no way that works with the limited space. The button heads from the stubs pressed into the axle are already very limited on space. Multiple contacts to DSS for a fix of the problem and I'll I got was "get shorter bolts" and "we've never seen studs pressed into the stub axle like that". For the amount of money I paid for this "bolt on no fab solution" this is really pathetic..... when I tear is all down this winter I'll have it machined myself and it will work fine. Just giving the community a buyer-beware for the DSS product and crappy service from their so called Tech. To be fair, everything else DSS provided is top notch.

Torque, I don't know, but I believe 800 Hp.

Sweet!