jgkurz

The S30 and S130 car I will be using for mock-up are LHD.

Several reasons. Before I send it to SSAC I need to inspect and photo document the header. If necessary, I will also make any repairs. Second, I will need to receive funds from the group prior to shipping so I'm not in the hole compared to the group buy cost. SSAC will need to provide an estimate once we get them the pics and measurements I will be providing. I will be into the header roughly $1000.00 assuming I need to surface the flanges and have repairs done by a competent TIG welder. The header itself cost me $800.00. I also will be spending time and fuel getting photos and measurements with the header mocked up on an S30 and S130. If the group buy cost for the equivalent header (assuming no jet-hot coating) is say... $500.00 with shipping, I would like the $500.00 difference from the group to make all this fair. Everything I do will be documented and I don't expect to be compensated for every penny but I also don't plan on taking a $500.00 hit for the group. This all assumes that SSAC will be paying for shipping and insurance. I'm open to other ideas and suggestions but this scenario seems the fairest for everyone. If the group decides not to use my header as a template then that's the risk I took. Can someone start a running list in this thread of the user names (with quantity) who want a group buy header? Let's assume a $500.00 price including shipping from SSAC.

Update: VinhZXT has confirmed receipt of my check. He is planning to ship the header to me next week.

Rick's Z will do 164 without even trying hard.... I changed the title so people don't think he was arrested.

Ouch....15 days in jail. Makes me think twice about doing any high speed runs down the freeway. I haven't gone nearly that fast in years. There are days when I'm tempted but then I remember what I could lose. http://www.kgw.com/video/mostpopular-index.html?nvid=247894

On my 280z I run stock springs with two coils cut. Car weighed 3040 with me in it when I cut a 1.7 60ft on 245/45-16 street tires. I dropped the tire pressure to 20psi. The Illumina struts were set softer in back then the front.

This is the only S30 I've heard of with a VG30DETT. http://www.specialtyz.com/aboutus.htm

I have thorough experience with both internal and external WG's. An internal wastegate can be improved greatly over stock but I've yet to see one that worked as well as a properly sized external wastegate. Your new DP looks like it does away with the internal wastegate and bolts directly to the turbine. It also look like you just need to weld some WG flanges to accommodate an external WG. I have gone the exact same route as you and have had the best success with my current setup which is nearly identical to your new DP but with an external WG. Hope this helps.

I'm not sure how we could restrict them from profiting from our mold. I'm guessing that's one of the reasons they have paid for jeffer949's shipping of the OEM manifold. If the HybridZ price is right I don't think I care too much about them making money after the group buy is over.

Update: The money has been mailed to VinhZXT and should arrive by the end of the week. My guess is the header will be shipped to me the following week and delivered around 8/11. Once I get header I'll do an assessment then mock it up on a local S30 and S130. Some local guys have volunteered their non-running cars so hopefully they will still be available when the time comes. For the mock-up I don't plan on doing a full bolt up of the header and intake manifolds unless it's absolutely necessary. My plan was to install a few bolts then take photo's. Let me know if that will be adequate. Regarding cost, I will expect to be compensated for the shipping and the delta cost between the group buy price and what it takes to make my header the same quality. It would be a bonus to be compensated for my time, effort and fuel cost as well. I doubt there are enough people participating in the group buy for me to be fully compensated for the total header cost, but of course I'm willing if the majority agrees. Can someone send SSAC the pictures of the header so we can get a ball park estimate? We need this before asking for funds. Pics are here:http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=13138&ppuser=7949

My car is finally running so I won't be able to take it apart to mock up the header. I will ask some local Z folks if they could help. Stay tuned...

VinhZXT and I have struck a deal for the header. It will cost me $800.00 delivered to my door. We now need to determine how much money is needed from the group so I come out even. Here's what I will need funds for: 1) Shipping with insurance from my zip 97045 to SSAC @ 27522. 2) Shipping with insurance from SSAC @ 27522 to 97045 3) True-up for delta between cost of VinhZXT header and group buy cost. (This will likely need to be estimated once SSAC see's pic's of the template header) The risk for me is two fold. I have no idea what condition the header is in and what it will take to make it reliable and usable. (Like a new SSAC header would be) I may need to have the flange's surfaced and welds repaired....etc. Second is the shipping to and from SSAC. I will not worry about this too much but I want to make it clear to SSAC that this loaner header needs to be sent back to me in the same condition as they received it. Once the group agree's to the costs I will accepts funds by snail mail or PayPal. I will post a running ledger of deposits and when we have the full amount we all agreed to I will ship to SSAC. Thoughts?

I will check on the price with VinhZXT and get back to you all. My ultimate goal is to have my total cost to be the same as the group buy. That seems like the fairest approach.

All, I would be willing to buy VihnZXT's header outright and send it to SSAC, but I would want some financial assistance for the trouble and risk. I figure if everyone kicks in some dough we will have great header template to build from.

My bypass hole is blocked and I can't say there has been a notable cooling benefit.

How do you test the pump? Do you have a manual switch that you turn on under the hood?

It looks decent to me. I wish people would get off this equal length kick. The difference between the OEM manifold and ANY type turbo header is substantial. If you were designing an all out max power engine where 100% of every exhaust pulse is needed to achieve your power curve goals then yes, equal length is beneficial. Assuming the welds are good and the flanges seal, the big problem with this twin turbo header will be getting all the plumbing to fit. A/C is out for sure.

Funny...you and I must have been on the same stretch of road. http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=862551&postcount=136

Beautiful car. Your dash looks different. Are you using a standard dash cap or did you make something custom?

I'm also running 245/45-16 rears and 225/50-16 fronts. The tires are Bridgestone RE750's. I think the right tires can make all the difference. With 462ftlb torque I still have to drop the clutch to get the tires to spin. If I had a V8 with "insta-torque" I'm sure my experience would be different.

Great info. Thanks Steve.

Hi Folks, I have a 77 280z that has the original R12 A/C. It works well except for a slow leak at the compressor front shaft seal. It takes a couple years to stop working but I'm sick of refilling it. The local A/C guy did a refill today but when I got home I noticed a fair amount of bubbles still in the sight glass. I called him to asked if he could add a touch more R12 and he said no problem but he said having the freon a bit low would reduce the pressure on the high-side a bit which might stop/postpone the leak. He also recommended using it more to lube the seals. I'm not sure I buy into this so I want to ask the question here. He would add more R12 for free didn't recommend it on such an old system. Is there any truth to this? Should I have enough R12 added so the bubbles are reduced? Also, is swapping my good A/C clutch to a new compressor a big problem? The rebuilt compressors without a clutch are half the price of ones with a clutch. P.S. I'd rather not convert to R134 unless I absolutely have to.

Hugh is right on with this recommendation. Tuning for real world loads is always best. The Mustang dyno is one of the better dyno's if you cannot datalog SAFELY on the street. I prefer to use 4th gear when datalogging but the speed at peak RPM is usually way to fast. 3rd gear is good but it's doesn't load the engine as well.

Nice catch... I bet that's the first thing you look at on Z32's..

Thanks!!!