jgkurz

Joel, I think you just redefined how to make a cool in-car video. Thanks for sharing. BTW, how did you mount the camera?

Clifton, Max flow of the E50 wheel according the the map is 47lb/min which is achieved at a pressure ratio of roughly 2.6 or about 24psi. 35psi is possible but at 47lb/min he would be WAY out of the efficiency islands. The charge air would be so hot from over-revving the turbo that peak HP would likely be less than it would be at 24psi. I agree that 450RWHP is optimistic especially without a bigger turbine wheel. Hugh, A .60 A/R compressor housing is supposedly more efficient than a smaller housing. In other words in should be able to move more air volume at the same boost level or the same volume at a lower boost level. This is all theoretical but that is my understanding. A .70 housing may be too large so there are diminishing returns. It's all a balancing act between the compressor's and turbine's ability. So yes, there is an advantage to a .60 housing. If you can make it fit I would use it. If not try and locate a .50 A/R housing. As for the cermachrome coating I think you are right. The black coating should have been used. The cermachrome usually is not rated high enough for turbine housings. Worst case it that it will get dull. Some people say it will flake off if it gets too hot but I've never seen that happen.

Great pictures. It's unexpectedly nice today. I'm envious of the huge shop you have in the background.

I went out and snapped some pics of my compressor for your reference.

Hugh, My compressor housing is .50 A/R so it's very small. I think it's from a T04E but it might be a T04B. I've never really been sure. It fits the OEM exhaust manifold without any modification or spacer. It was originally sourced from Jim Wolf as a Sport 400 turbo. The larger .60 A/R housing would be better than mine if you can get it to fit. Personally I've never had to try and fit a larger housing. FWIW the GT35R typically uses a .70 A/R compressor..... If you are going to build a custom DP you might try a spacer or you could try and find a .50 A/R housing. There's a good chance you could just swap the .60 housing for the .50 assuming you find one. If the compressor housing is machined specially for your wheel (like mine) you would have to have a turbo shop install the different housing. I hope all this makes sense.

Sweet looking setup. In case you don't have a copy here's the compressor map for your turbo. Looks like max flow is around 24psi give or take a few. Can you remind me where you got the V-Band outlet? Also, do you have a spare exhaust manifold to make sure the compressor isn't going to hit?

As recommended by mtcookson above, take a look at this Garrett link: http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/GT35/GT3582R_714568_2.htm I've done a lot of research on the GT35R since that's my next upgrade. Personally I think the .70 AR compressor housing and a .63 turbine is the right way to go for an L28. There are HybridZ members that have had success with both the .63 and .82 turbine, it just depends how much lag you can tolerate. If I remember right, I think JeffP is making close to 600HP with a .63 turbine. I think the .82 would make more peak HP but I'm not willing to trade my low-end power. Lastly, on the Garrett link you'll notice that the GT35R is not available with a .60 AR compressor housing and only a .70. Since they are the manufacturer I think I'd trust their configuration to achieve the max rated HP of a GT35R. One more thing, the .70 GT35R compressor housing will NOT fit the L28ET exhaust manifold without spacer. If the compressor is truly a GT35R but with a custom .60 housing it might just fit the L28ET manifold without a spacer. That could be a good compromise. Please let us know how this all works out for you. I'm very curious.

Hi Folks, I think I made a mistake by purchasing the wrong shift light. My EFI can be used to trigger a shift light so I thought I'd buy this light. It is a 12V light that seems to work well enough in my testing. I haven't installed it yet but I have modified the mount enough that it's not returnable. It's also not overly bright. After more reading it's really designed to ONLY be a warning light for things like low oil pressure. I've since learned that the below light is meant specifically for use as a shift light. It supposedly has better response than the light I purchased. Are any of you using either of these lights that you could comment on how you like them?

Hi Everyone, I exchanged an email with Sarah at Nissan Sport. She informed me that she has everything needed for the Spring issue. Basically the photo(s) and information provided in this thread are what get published. I'm grateful for the opportunity to represent HybridZ and look forward to seeing my Z in print.

Wiki is spot on for TonyD.....

Thanks John and everyone. From the looks of it, all the favorite Nissan/Datsun forums will have a car represented as well so I will need to shine her up nice so we have a good showing. Now I wish I would have gotten that new paint job last year. :bonk:I might pull the trigger on some new leather seats I've been looking at depending on how detailed feature will be. So far I'm not sure what the next steps are. Either way, I want to have the paint polished and buffed. Does anyone have a recommendation for polish/wax products that will bring out the best in an older older paint job?

Whoa! I never thought I'd win. Cool!!! Thanks everyone. I will do my best to represent. At this point I'm not sure what's in store but I know one thing, I better get polishing.

Wow! Great car for $1200.00. Nice find.

Oh what the heck... I'll throw mine in the hat. ------------ Name: John Kurzhals Handle:jgkurz City/State:Oregon City, OR Year/Model: 1977 280z Vehicle Details (max 20 words):62K miles. Built to be a sleeper. 3.0L L28ET w/Tec3 EFI, Gforce T-5, HRE Wheels, 4-wheel disk, LSD, 11.3@123.9, 454RWHP Vehicle Picture: More info here: http://home.comcast.net/~jgkurz/z/

I think Daeron's title should be "=42" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Answer_to_Life%2C_the_Universe%2C_and_Everything

The steering was vastly worse than my Z but that's not unexpected from a 38 year old steering box vs rack and pinion. The Boss 302 rode better than my Z since the wheel base was longer and my Z has stiffer suspension. The biggest surprise were the outstanding brakes. On the street they're probably just as good as my Z. The "seat" dyno was not even close. My Z would leave it standing still but that's hardly a fair comparison. If the car were mine I'd be tempted to pull the engine and trans then put them safely in storage. I'd then put a 550HP stroker Windsor with 5spd Tremec. Of course I wouldn't cut or modify the car in any way that would keep me from putting it back to stock.

I'm doing a few minor upgrades to the Z right now. As soon as it's back on the road I'll give him the keys and turn up the boost. I may need to put a seat liner on the driver seat so it doesn't get soiled...

I love the 1969 Z/28 as well. I have a close friend with an all original tuxedo black RS/Z28. It's a stunning car. Interestingly, his Z28 and the Boss 302 drive very similar. Both cars still have exhaust manifolds instead of headers to maintain their authenticity. I couldn't feel any difference in the power band between them. With both there's little torque below 3500rpm. Headers would probably improve HP greatly on these engines. In a nutshell, I'd say the Z/28 had better steering and the Boss had better brakes. These characteristics may be something unique between these specific cars but that's what I noticed.

Hi Everyone, I had a unique experience today that I wanted to share. I've seen this car in my neighborhood but I've never known who's it was. Today I stopped by the mailbox for the mail then cruised around to see if the mystery car would reveal itself inside an open garage. I guess I was snooping a bit. Low and behold the owner was 3 blocks away and was about to take the car out for a spin. I stopped to gawk at this flawless 1970 Boss 302. The owner was very friendly and invited me to look over this car and also his equally amazing 1965 Mustang convertible. After spending some time looking over the car he backed it out of the garage and invited me for a ride along. Cool!! He idled the car for a few minutes to warm it up then realized that the transmission was stuck in 3rd gear. It is the original Borg Warner T-10 with a Hurst shifter. He didn't have any luck getting the shifter freed up. I volunteered to help since he wasn't sure what the problem was, and to be honest I still wanted a ride. We jacked the car up to take a look at the shift rods. I figured that the problem was either the shifter rods or possible the shift forks inside the transmission. A shift fork problem would be bad. I couldn't quite tell what the issue was so I disconnected the rods from the transmission shift levers. Once the rods were disconnected the shift levers moved properly so I figured the transmission was not the problem and the rods were simply mis-adjusted. My experience is that getting Hurst shifting rods adjusted perfectly is a science in itself. It looked like the rod for 3rd gear was the culprit. After about an hour of adjusting and testing we got it shifting great. The owner was so grateful he threw me the keys to take it out for a spin. My jaw about hit the floor.... I had a little trouble with the clutch as you can hear in the video but eventually I got the hang of it. The little 302 is a great engine but not overly powerful. The sound of the flat tappet cam clicking and clacking and the lope of the cam would give any muscle car fan shivers. The exhaust note was amazing. Driving a Boss 302 was something I've always wanted to do. What a gift I was given. Brief video: http://home.comcast.net/~jgkurz/images/Boss302.wmv

Looks like I've been tagged. That's funny and unfortunately it's accurate for a while.

I think Mr Tyler was the culprit. Thanks Ron!

Great thread. I've always wondered how I'd deal with the turn signal indicators if I installed an aftermarket tach. Now if I could just find a couple green LED's shaped like an arrow...

Great launch! That's what I call a holeshot...