jgkurz

This is definitely one of my all time favorites.

Thanks Justin. That's a great idea. Even if the cost is the same or a bit more it would be nice to have a custom fitted bar. I'd still like to see pictures of roll bar (not cage) installations in an S30 if anyone has them. Thanks!

Maybe but it's worth a bit extra if I can just bolt it in and go. Fabrication time is in short supply.

I updated my original post.

Hi Folks, I'm considering adding a roll bar to my 280Z for safety, so I'm allowed back at the drag strip, so I can use a seat harness and so I can mount a camcorder. Before I make the purchase I would like to understand what it will look like before I spend the cash. It's adding up to be a lot more expensive than I was hoping. Shipping alone from CA or OR is supposedly $160.00. Uggg. I'm looking at the Autopower Street/Sport bar with the removable horizontal brace: Here's what the actual Z roll bar looks like: If you have a roll bar in your 240Z, 260Z or 280Z can you post pictures? I'd especially like to see the mounting locations. Thank you!

This may seem obvious but have you checked the TPS to make sure the closed and WOT voltages are still correct? Maybe the min and max settings on the Tec2 got changed inadvertently.

After playing the with the numbers more I was able to get an output that was closer to my expectations. The only variable I don't trust is the BSFC. I estimate my car is about .55. The tool suggests it's at .43. That's extraordinarily efficient if it's true. I have no way to validate the BSFC number other than to compare other engines that have been officially tested. Supposedly an efficient turbo gasoline engine is about .55 -.60. Using those numbers skews my results greatly. Oh well.

The calculator seems excellent at first but when I plug in all my data it isn't not even in the ball park. I know a fair amount about my car including an accurate HP output based on the dyno and at the dragstrip. BTW, the HP field is crank HP not wheel HP. I'm still playing with the numbers but it's not been accurate so far. I'd like to know if someone actually feels the output of the tool is accurate.

I have a G-Force T-5 built by Kevin and I had him do every upgrade possible including the HD 5th gear. I like the transmission and it's held up with no issues. The only things to be aware of is it's picky about what fluid is used. Too heavy and gear shifting will be notchy, too light of fluid may not properly lubricate. I use a combination of G-Force fluid and Royal Purple Synchromax. The other thing is gear noise. 3rd gear downshifts are LOUD if you are at just the right speed. 5th gear definitely has an audible whine that might be annoying to some, especially over a long trip. For us L28 guys it's really the strongest manual transmission available that doesn't take massive fabrication to install. If you don't apply full power to 5th and use it just for cruising I would highly recommend you keep the OEM gear. The whole reason I went down the G-Force path is because I shredded 5th gear in my Datsun 5spd (non-T5) on a WOT blast down the freeway.

Hugh, Colder plugs will help resist detonation as you increase boost. The small plug gap will help ensure the mixture fires as combustion pressure increases. As you probably know, the more HP you make the higher the combustion pressure. This is likely a substantial increase over what the L28ET was designed for. The BPR6ES-11 plugs work great but you really should consider a bit colder plugs when turning up the boost. I'm sure there are people running crazy boost with BPR6ES-11's but I like to improve my odds of survival whenever possible. The trick is to not go so cold on the plugs or too small a gap that you decrease driveability significantly. It's really a trial and error approach for what works best and when. As an example, I run different plugs on the street vs on the track. The LS1/Denso coil packs on an L28ET wouldn't necessarily require different plugs. However, they might allow you to run a bit more gap due to probable improved ignition performance.

Everyone's got their own opinion on plug gap. It all depends on your application, spark plugs and the quality of your ignition system. .034 is probably a bit too wide of a gap if I had to make best guess.

The engine load/boost response will be much different in the lower gears vs 4th and 5th. This might be a reason why the miss occurs in 2nd and 3rd and not 4th and 5th. Your description sounds like you may have a lean condition contributing as well. Do you have a way to measure AFR's? I seriously doubt your plug gap is the issue. Coils maybe, but not plug gap. Just make sure your NGK plugs are all in good shape (no cracked insulators or damaged electrodes) and gap to .025 and move on to another area for troubleshooting. You might want to run a smaller or larger gap later on but for this purpose .025 should be a good starting point. Just my .02C Let us know what you find out.

I wish there was a way to get rid of bogus or non-Hybridz related entries like this. The admin's should be able edit as they see fit. Just my .02C.

I'm using that exact intercooler in my S30. It has worked surprising well. I bought it when my budget was more limited with plans to upgrade in the future. So far I haven't determined that a more modern design would net me significant gains. I have punished it on the dyno and it doesn't seem to ever heat soak. I don't have thermocouples but the coolside tank is always much cooler to the touch than the hotside. My guess is that it has a bit more pressure drop than the newer designs. The only major modification was to the outlet. I cut and welded the pipe so it goes straight out vs a 90 deg turn.

Phil, Are you planning to put your car on the dyno with the new 4" exhaust? At 19psi, meth and good exhaust I'd guess you are flirting with 400 to 450 RWHP.

Wow, that makes me feel better about my rods. That's a lot of power/revs on OEM rod's. For me, if I built an engine like yours I'd want ensure as much longevity and reliability as my budget allowed. Using quality H beam rods may prove not necessary, but I'd like the insurance "just in case".

I agree. I'd love to have a good set up Carillo or similar rods in my L28 but the cost was too high. I decided to prep a set if 133mm L24 OEM rods by polishing, shotpeening, magnafluxing, and using ARP bolts. So far I've had no issues. I rarely spin my engine past 6500rpm. Sometimes in first gear it will rev quickly to 7K or above but rarely in the other gears. If you get to a point where your engine needs to rev to 7000rpm or higher then good H beam rods would be my recommendation. You'll probably need an aftermarket damper at that point as well. I'm not saying the stock rods won't work at 7000rpm or above. I just think better rods will be less prone to failure at the higher RPMs.

So far I haven't been able to get in touch with the owner. I'll keep trying.

I'll check it out tomorrow if I get time. Sounds a bit shady to me... If the VIN's match and the DMV see's no issue I'd definitely low ball him.

Sheesh.... That's a lot of air. I drove my dad's car at the strip a while back and when it lifted the front end up I about @#$% my pants. It definitely takes some getting used to. I came back to the pits after the run and had to take some friendly abuse for getting out of the throttle.... When it goes that high how do you keep it pointed down the track? Is it just a matter of keeping in the throttle and making darn sure the steering wheel doesn't move an millimeter? Just curious..

Thank you everyone for your replies.

Hi folks, It's time to replace the original carpet in my 77Z. The color fade and wear is partly the reason. The other reason is the typical old Datsun smell is getting a potent. I'm not sure if it's the old glue, dye, or what but it's time to go. I would like to buy the best quality possible that has an OEM look and is easy to install. I don't want a 2" thick padded carpet like some places offer. I think I want the "Pile" type carpet which I believe is the original type. I also want the fit to be good and with a driver side heel pad. Can anyone make a recommendation on brand, quality or what's worked well? At this point I'm not concerned about price. So far I've found: MSA: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SIC103/40-2586G Black Dragon: http://www.blackdragonauto.com/icatalog/z/0069.asp Stockinteriors: http://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=8948&MakeId=38&ModelId=315 1A Auto: http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Carpets/Datsun/280Z/1ACCS00425/558200

I know there are only a handful of people with the Tec3's and more Tec2's but I wanted to ask about any starting issues. I have a first generation Tec3 and have always struggled with getting the starting parameters set perfectly. I define perfect as being able to start the car at any temperature without throttle input. Any OEM EFI should do this. Even the early L-Jetronic from on the first generation 280-Z will. Supposedly the Tec3R has some starting enhancements that the Tec2/3 doesn't have. I'm also still using the old air-regulator from the original fuel injection and not an intelligent Idle Air Controller. Soooo, how well does your Electromotive EFI start the engine? Do you have to give it throttle? Does it start better cold than hot or visa/versa? Does it fire the engine right away then quits? Does it take several cranks then starts fine...?

Looks like Electromotive has released a new ECU named TEC-GT. It appears to be a more compact version of the Tec3R series but and with a bit less expandability although it does have new software. I'm wondering if they will port the new software it to the Tec3 series. Strangely Electromotive doesn't seem to have the TEC-GT listed on their site yet. I found it on TopEnd's site. http://www.racetep.com/electro/Cat2007.pdf

I got a Summit Racing gift certificate that will be used for an oil cooler and sandwich plate thermostat. I hope to do a few track days in 2008.