jgkurz

Can't wait to see your results. You should be able to whoop on all us L series guys with original cylinder heads....

I read the Zcar.com post and Jeff's personal website. The 658 was calculated to be crank HP. Read here: http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page19.html What's incredible about Jeff's accomplishment is he did it with a stock intake and a .63 GT35R. Wow! That's got to be a record for GT35R output on any car. Simply amazing. When Jeff goes to the .82 turbine he'll be knocking on TimZ's door at 700bhp...

Interesting. Thanks for your informed response.

I have found that this approach puts a LARGE hole in the wallet. Better that then your pistons I guess...

TimZ was at 607rwhp. That equates to roughly 700bhp. I assume the 658 Jeff made is rwhp. That's simply amazing. Was there a HybridZ post from Jeff? I'd enjoy reading the details.

Exactly!!!!!

Get'r dipped and bring out the welder... She'll be fine if someone get's her home soon.

It's a matter of space and compromise. The people who want a header to build an all out "max effort" engine will certainly want an equal length pulse tuned header. In my opinion the header should be built to accommodate both the "max effort" crowd as well as the daily driver folks with A/C. We will be better off by compromising a just a bit so we can make the group buy more attractive for more people. I think we all win of we can agree on a design that accomplishes this. In the end some people will be disappointed because the design won't be engineered to perfection. I don't think that can be avoided. If some one wants to spend the time to mock up an equal length pulse tuned header that accommodates A/C and doesn't come too close to my frame rails then I'm all for it. However, I think this would be an unrealistic and enormous undertaking to make sure it fit both the S130 and S30 cars. BTW, I think 1000 rpm spool improvement with a pulse tuned split header is a bit optimistic. Please school me if you have info to the contrary.

I couldn't agree more!!! The perfect turbo header would have equal length primaries and would have the tubes pulse tuned to take advantage of a divided turbine but this is not practical for the masses. Here's my vote for options: 1) I'd prefer a T3 flange but the option for either T3 or T4 would be desirable. T3 would probably be the majority of the orders. 2) Primaries should be about 1 5/8 and made of thick gauge tubing. The header should NOT be a log style but should accommodate A/C and should have all primaries merge together just before the turbo flange. 3) Wastegate location will need careful mock-up. The entry point should be next to the turbo flange so the wastegate port see's all cylinder pulses. The wastegate flange should be in a location that allows the WG can be tucked between the header and the the block. Something like this: or this: 4) For the wastegate flange I'd prefer the larger 40mm flange but the 38mm will be more common. Some people may even want the 44mm or larger. The option for either would be desirable. See here: http://www.tialsport.com/prod_wg_fl.htm 5) The cylinder head flange is also a concern. Will the same shop be creating a flange or do we need to supply separately? 6) I'm not concerned about a downpipe since I want to custom build my own so it's fits my car properly. 7) Will we have the option for a high-temp coating?

That caught my eye as well. I'm a loyal HybridZ guy but for a fleeting second I thought it may have been more appropriate to have our cars switched in the article. Your Z is more of a hybrid than mine is.....

$200.00 seems too good to be true. I certainly would like to pay as little as possible but at that price I would wonder how they'd make any money. Again, I think it's important that a reliable product be designed which would typically cost more than $200.00. Would they be designing the cylinder head flange or would that need to be provided up front? My point is that we should be very careful that we set certain expectations with the builder so we all get the product we are expecting.

I believe the below header designs would satisfy the majority of everyone's requirements. Notice the beautiful welds and how the tubes transition from round to rectangular in the first design. Although not equal length, they are not a log style and should accommodate A/C. The multifit T4/T3 flange would work for T3 folks but the T4 folks would sacrifice because the ID of the flange would still be T3. At least it looks that way to me. Also, I definitely do not want stainless. I think they are much more prone to cracking. Example Header #1 Example Header #2

+1 on the Walbro. I wouldn't touch the boost without it.

I'm in but I can't lead the Group Buy. I have an S30 but the header shouldn't be much if any different for a ZX version. Price is less of a concern than product quality. I would prefer not to use stainless steel but rather a thicker mild steel for reliability. This is probably a given but it must have a wastegate port. I use a 40/41mm but if it came with the more typical 38mm then I could change it myself. I also would like a T3 flange rather than a T4. I would prefer it look like these: Or maybe this one if I had to compromise: But not like these:

Sounds like you have your eye on something.... This is just a guess, but you've been driving by the Lithia Subaru dealer looking at WRX's haven't you...?:burnout:WRX's are definitely all the rage here in Oregon. With the AWD it's a year round sports car. This is just my opinion but driving a powerful Z in the rain is frustrating and almost pointless..

Ugggg! You just moved here. I admire you for setting priorities but it's just too bad you have to sell. Can you wait until after the Canby Datsun/Nissan show?

Whoa!!! Talk about embarrassing. I feel bad for the guy. Makes me a bit spooked about only having only 4 lugs. I did have to grin a bit at the Youtube comment "dont let stoners pit for you"

I knew you couldn't resist.....

Terry, You very accurately summed up my experience with the G-force T-5. 3rd gear down shifts can really scream if you are at just the right RPM. 5th gear cruising can be a little irritating if you are going long distances. The notchy shifting is normal when cold. However, I was able to fix it with a 50/50 mix of G-force GF2000 lube and Royal Puple Synchromax. Overall it was a the best solution for me. I don't worry a bit about the transmission. Drag racing has been no issue. If I was a really good fabricator I might have tried to make a Tremec TKO 600 work but that would have been a more serious undertaking.

Agreed. It's probably a difference between dyno types. The video said they did the pull in 4th. I can only assume it's 1:1 but if it was overdriven that would also explain. I've always done my dyno pulls in 4th which is 1:1, not sure why people would use 3rd.

Just a side note, but did anyone else find the dyno pull video odd? The GT-R seemed to tale a LONG time to get up to speed in 4th gear. My car is nothing compared to the GT-R but it sure seems to rev quicker on the dyno.

I run Toyota S12W calipers, aluminum spacers, 300ZX Z31 vented rotors and Porterfield R4S pads. The pad part number I run is AP 410. They are a perfect fit. Hope that helps....

I've used K&N oil filters and have no complaints. Some day I want to buy an oil filter cutter just to see how good it actually is. Until then I have no reason to change.

Here's a car that got a lot of recognition lately for being a 7 sec street car. Personally I like Rob's Z better.... http://tinyurl.com/2n7xfg

Do you get the feeling Phil is keeping us in suspense....