jgkurz

Here's a brief list.... Keep in mind this list is NOT what I would have done if I had a bigger budget. 1) I would have went with a 60-1 turbo right off the bat. It's an inexpensive turbo that makes a ton of power in a small package. 2) I should have went to an external wastegate right away by welding up a port to OEM exhaust manifold. The internal wastegate just isn't meant to handle big HP. It's more complicated than just the size of the WG port. 3) I should have gone to full 3" downpipe instead of the 2.5" I used for years. Do whatever you can to improve the air flow in and out of the engine. Sometimes this can be done very inexpensively. 4) I should have spent more time on the cylinder head by unshrouding the valves and cleaning up the bowls and ports. 5) The LD28 crank is nice and gives me another 200cc but the expense wasn't necessary to make the power I wanted. A bored L28 will be MUCH cheaper and will make nearly the same power. 6) My Isky cam is another nice option but again, I now think I could have made my power goal with a stock turbo cam. I think the gain was minimal. BTW, Now that my exhaust is flowing to potential I believe my HP is now limited by the smaller turbo I'm running and the injector size. Unfortunately there's always going to be a weak link somewhere.

Thanks. A high HP L28 is not that difficult to achieve it's keeping it together that's the hard part. My car could have been done a lot cheaper if I knew then what I know now. Isn't that always the case though....

It was hard to look at the gauge but I believe it was at about 23psi. I'm kicking myself for not datalogging.. Thanks for coming out! It just took me a few runs to get the car sorted out. Also I learned that the sintered-iron clutch doesn't provide the necessary grip until it's fully heated up.

Thanks Scottie. I plugged my time slip info into your spreadsheet and this is what I got. Definitely interesting. I'll be hitting the dyno soon to verify it's accuracy.

Hi Admins. Since we have a new policy that threads cannot be edited after 24hrs what is the proper protocol to update or correct my post so that any inaccurate information can be corrected? Is there a way to send a PM to the admin group requesting a post edit? I'd prefer correcting the original post rather than adding the correction on the bottom of the thread as a new post. Thank you.

Thanks John. Breaking out by 6 tenths was a little embarrassing, especially after the announcer made sure everyone saw..I think I'll get over it.

He came down with his kids but decided not to wait for the morning fog to lift. Eventually the sun came out and even gave me a bit of a sun burn. BTW, I'm guessing the density/altitude was sea level or better.

Yeah, it was fun. Wish you could have been there. I would say several things contributed to my success. The new DP and wastegate flow so much better then my last setup. I'm now able to keep stable boost through the RPM range instead of bleeding off boost as the RPM's rise. My next step is I'm going to tweak a few things here and there then take it to the dyno to see what kind of power it's making. My goal for that was 400RWHP. Thanks everyone for the comments!!!!

You could say that..... I knew it was running strong but I never thought it'd go 11.3.

That's the best feeling ever! However, it was a very nice Fairlane with a side-oiler 427 which is one of my favorite engines. He still had to go down....

Thanks to everyone who responded to this post. It helped me a great deal at the the track today. Here's the write-up. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=814680#post814680

Hi everyone, I had an amazing day at the dragstrip today. I've recently made several upgrades on my ride and wanted to get at least one run before the season closed. My best last season was 12.3@ 118mph. My goal today was to hit an 11.9 and 120mph. On the way to the track I stopped and weighed the car. With me in the car it weighed 3050lbs. At the track I think it was 3040 after adding fuel and removing the tire and jack. The weather at the track was about 65 degree F with an altitude of 168ft as indicated on my hand held GPS. I mixed in some 104 octane unleaded to help prevent detonation. The track was prepared extremely well and made a significant difference in traction, especially considering I'm not running slicks or drag radials. My 4th and last run was my best, and honestly, it was completely unexpected. I loaded the video and actual time slip on my website. Click here: My Z Dial In: 11.90 Reaction time: .023 60ft: 1.725 330ft: 4.819 1/8: 7.335 MPH: 97.29 1000ft: 9.491 1/4: 11.302 MPH: 123.91 I need to thank HybridZ and it's members for helping me achieve a goal I've had for many years.

That's my point. I think it is true. The 3-wire alternators have a remote voltage sensing wire that allow them better match the electrical loads being put on the system. In other words, the purpose of the sense wire is to monitor the system voltage, and increase or decrease the charging rate, depending on the system load and/or battery condition. A 1-wire alternator cannot do this. Read here: http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...esensing.shtml http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

Hi Folks, I thought I'd share my experience with getting my car through emissions in the state of Oregon. I'm required to only pass idle emissions at no more than 300ppm hydrocarbon and not higher than 1% carbon dioxide. I wasn't able to pass until I made the following changes. I wasn't ready to add denatured alcohol or other extreme measures unless I had to. Keep in mind I have programmable EFI and a larger camshaft. This also assumes all engine components are in good working order. 1) Tune AFR's for 14.3:1. I found that anything higher produced a failed emissions test. My previous belief was best emissions were achieved at 14.7:1. 2) Run the factory spark plugs NGK BPR6ES-11 at .050 gap. I normally run colder NGK BPR7ES at .030 gap. 3) Set initial and idling ignition timing to 10deg BTDC. 4) Make sure idle is stable and that your O2 sensor is set to make small corrections. 3) Set idle up higher than normal but not higher than 950 or so. After I did all this I passed with flying colors.

This is an old thread but I thought I provide some information I learned recently. I did install a Powermaster 140amp 10SI alternator as discussed above. It's done mostly what I needed except for the fact that the L28 pulley system doesn't turn a Chevy alternator fast at idle enough to provide enough voltage. At 750RPM I get about 12.5V. At 1000RPM (much to high for idle) I get about 15V. Unfortunately this causes a severe battery drain if I'm driving in city traffic. Although my Powermaster was suppose to be a 1-wire unit capable of 3-wire, it really is only a 1-wire. If a 1-wire "self exciting" regulator is wired up in a 3-wire configuration it does permit a warning light but it does NOT allow connection of the "remote sensing" wire that an OEM 3-wire regulator allows. In case you don't know, the "remote sensing" ability of a true 3-wire GM alternator allows the regulator to sense loads on the electrical system if connected to a junction not on the actual battery. For this reason I stand by my statement that a 3-wire alternator will regulate voltage better than a 1-wire of similar amperage. My plan is to remove my 1-wire regulator and install a 3-wire regulator into my Powermaster 10SI. The part cost me $3.00. Another cool feature of a 3-wire is the ability to add a potentiometer to the remote sense wire so you can raise the output voltage to desired levels by adding resistance to the wire. One more thing. This is potentially dangerous and could damage your wiring or battery if voltage is increased to over 15.5v. Below is a website that goes into this with more detail. http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/remotevoltagesensing.shtml

I found these posts by HybridZ member norm[T12SDSUD] http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=76581&highlight=psi http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=89986&highlight=psi He says he got a 1.81 60ft on 195/60-14 street ties. Wow!!

I've tried many combinations but because my suspension travel with the old bump stops was so limited I think it made little difference. My plan for this Sunday is to just set them all at 1 unless someone was adamant about a different arrangement.

Yeah, I'm hoping the suspension travel will help. Better weight transfer should give me more bite. Lowering the pressure in street tires will not make a huge traction difference but it should help slightly.

Hi folks, I'm heading out to the drag strip this weekend and am thinking of ways to improve my 60ft time. My car is a 77 280z with a turbocharged L28 and a 5spd manual transmission. It is a street car and will never have slicks or drag radials put on it. My rear tires are Bridgestone RE750's 245/45-16. They are a good high-performance street tires that hold up well for auto-crossing and road racing on track days. The problem is that I can't seem to get better than a 2.0 60ft. I'm usually at 2.1. I've tried launching the car at 2500RPM all the way up to 5000RPM. I've also tried hard side-stepping launches and softer clutch riding launches. I have even made several adjustments my Tokico Illumias but nothing seems to help. Over the summer I trimmed my bump stops so I now have much more suspension travel. I think this will help a bit. I've also thought about heating the tires up a bit. Not a smoky burnout but just enough to get some temperature in the rubber. The air temp will probably be 60deg at race time so a little cold for perfect traction. I'll probably run my tires at 25psi rather than the 51psi rating. Lastly, I've thought about hooking up my auxiliary rev limiter. My EFI allows me to use a secondary rev limiter for a purpose like launching at the drag strip. Would this help build boost even if I'm not able to load a torque converter? I wouldn't think it would but I've seen different schools of thought on this. If anything it would allow me to be consistent on my launch RPM which is still helpful. Thanks in advance for any feedback.

Thanks for the reply Jon and cygnusx1. My toe is at .09deg positive which is well within specs I believe. I think when I go back in to have the steering wheel centered I'll have them change the camber to negative 1.0deg. It'll probably cost me extra but I want it right.

BTW Rick. You car is looking HOT these days. I love the new look.

Jon, I recently went to have my 77 280z aligned and the factory specs for front camber are .3deg to 1.8deg. My car has camber adjusters but the technician was adamant that even a small amount of negative camber would wear my tires significantly sooner. I was thinking 1deg of negative camber should be fine since the car gets maybe 5K a year on the odometer. I have to take the car back to the alignment shop since the steering wheel is off-center so I might have them adjust camber again. Do you think 1deg negative is a problem with groove tracking or premature wear? I see you run negative 1.5deg. How are your tires looking? BTW, I'm running .09deg of Toe-in on the front.

TimZ and JohnC. If I'm reading both your posts correctly you both have almost opposite results. JohnC ran a 180 thermostat with a coolant temp of 190-200. TimZ runs a 195 thermostat with 185 coolant temp. Assuming all cooling components are working properly, shouldn't the coolant temp on the gauge be no more than 5 degree higher than the thermostat rating? JohnC, Was this accomplished by delaying the electric fan from turning on until 190 or so?

I don't know of any previous threads so let'r rip. This is all my opinion but I believe that most engines operate more efficiently when the coolant is kept at a proper operating temperature. I read somewhere that a modern engine (L28 is not in this category) has optimal BFSC, thus better mileage and horsepower at the 195 to 200 degree range. I think it has something to do with cylinder sealing and oil temp. An example would be some of the new GM products. My wife's 3.4L V6 uses a 195 degree thermostat. The L28 wasn't designed to run at those temps. The problem is probably with piston side clearance and cylinder head cooling. This coupled with a 60's designed cooling system just doesn't make it practical to run the engine so close to over-temping especially if the cooling system isn't ideal. I think 180 is a fine compromise that still provides efficient combustion and adequate cooling in the cylinder head even for those summer track days.

The port does exist...but you are still crazy. Not sure what you mean by "F/O setup". I still have the 10mm line below the thermostat. I actually run that line down to my turbo and back up to the heater hose T on the right side of the block. I would think this would keep the waterpump from stalling even with the bypass port blocked. I don't want to have to remember to crack my heater core open. If the waterpump was "deadheaded" how would it it damage the water pump or housing? I would think the engine would over-temp long before that would happen. Also, I've been thinking about trying to modify Mr Gasket hi-flow thermostat just to ensure it opens only when it's suppose to. Either way, I think the 180 degree thermostat is a good trade off for proper cooling but still hot enough for the engine to operate efficiently. In my opinion, 160 is just too low.