jgkurz

datman, what do you mean by "2 squirts alternating" Do you have two MegaSquirt systems and twelve injectors?

HRE 505's Front: 16x7.5" with Bridgestone RE750's 225/50-16 Rear: 16x8.5" with Bridgestone RE750's 245/45-16

I am also using the LD28 diesel crank. My car will idle very smooth at 13.5 and reasonably smooth at 14.5 which is where I keep it set. I had to bring down the initial timing to 15 BTDC and keep the VE table fairly flat to get the smooth idle near Stoich. My O2 is also set so it's not making huge adjustments. You might try to turn off closed loop at idle until tuning is ideal. I still have lots of tuning to do but for the most part it runs well. Also, the Tec3 (not sure about the Tec2) has a TPS/MAP blend for large cams. I don't recommend you use this unless you have to. I updated post #4 above with my Tec3 setup parameters.

That's a seriously clean looking setup. I run my IC out pipe parallel to the radiator which has worked well. My problem is the cooling fan clearance. I'd like to run a clutch fan instead of an electric fan. They're way more reliable in my opinion.

Then what am I going to do for my next project....

I'd be honored to have you come up. I'd just need a couple months advanced notice so we could dig it out of the barn. If I ever can get my Z done I plan on bringing it over to my garage/shop. Probably better if you come up then...

OK, Here's what I have used and seen in practice. None of this is my original idea. My friend Oz has been the source for much of this information. So first is the water pump, I use the LD28 water pump which does have a larger impeller. The only modification you have to make it to trim roughly 1/8 - 1/4 inch off the leading edge where the pump mounts to the timing chain cover. I have illustrated this in the below pictures. The LD28 pump is Nissan part number 21010-17SY7. Do not go to a local parts store to buy the LD28 pump. You will just get a regular L28E pump and not the one with the larger impeller. For some reason they don't recognize a difference. I also should say that I have never noticed an improvement with the larger pump. I know the larger impeller moves more water but since I have never had a cooling system issue I can't say for sure that it helped my application. Either way, I think it's a good idea and the principle is sound. I have not done this modification but my friend Oz did this on his Bonneville 280ZX. Basically he drilled and tapped three ports above the exhaust on what looks like cylinder 3, 5 and 6. He joined the three ports into a single manifold then had a separate inlet back into the radiator bypassing the thermostat. His application did not use a thermostat so that would be something to consider for a street application. Even under extreme boost and and environmental conditions, the Bonneville L28 setup never had any cooling system or detonation problems he was aware of. There are many other factors that helped but these modifications were key. The picture I enclosed shows the engine in 1991 trim so things are a little aged but you get the idea. I hope this helps.

Hey Hugh, I was at my machinist today picking up my new downpipe I had welded up and guess what I saw.... A very nice P90 head just waiting to be ported. He said he was just cleaning it up for you. Do you have big plans for the head? I'd enjoy seeing how a ported head helps your L28 turbo.

I read the eBay description and the original car was destroyed. Does anyone know the details?

I agree that reducing timing would probably smooth out the stumbling but in my case I really didn't think I needed to run leaner then 15:1. Plus, I'm still unsure whether an extremely lean cruise AFR has long term effects on valves and valve seats. Do you think running say.. 5* less timing and adding full point in AFR would net better mileage overall?

Nice first post Bean!!!! Hope to hear more from you.

I don't care who you are... that's funny!

cygnusx1, I too am one of those people who can't seem to leave well enough alone. The leanest cruise AFR I have been able to run on my L28ET without a stumble or hesitation is 15:1. I have an FJO WBO2 integrated into my Tec3 so I think the reading is fairly accurate. I've tried as much as 15:5 to 16:1 which becomes annoying on the freeway from the stumble. Interestingly, I have a datalog from a friends VG30DETT setup and his AFR under cruise gets as high as 16:1. The car cruises perfectly on the freeway.

I couldn't agree more. No sense in upgrading the compressor if you can't move the additional air through the exhaust. Back pressure will cause you nothing but trouble. Trust me!

My turbo is a T04E .50 AR compressor housing with an Innovative Turbo compressor wheel (see below compressor map). The CHRA is watercooled with oil fittings in the stock Datsun locations. It's a "big shaft" with a 360* bearing. The turbine housing is a modified Datsun .63. The turbine wheel is a T3 Stage V 10 blade. This turbo was built so I could use the Datsun internal wastegate and so I would need a spacer to clear the exhaust manifold. At some point I'd like to go to a GT35R with a .63 turbine housing.

AFR table added to my post.

Jeff, Here's my Tec3 settings and dyno sheet from last summer. The car is on jackstands right now undergoing exhaust and wastegate changes. I had some major flow restrictions with my previous setup. I'm confident I a can free up some significant HP with the new exhaust and downpipe design. If you look at the dyno sheet you can see that my boost bleeds off as RPM rises. My HP peaks at about 4300RPM then stays flat to about 5600RPM. I believe this is all caused by too much back pressure.

I guess I exaggerated the weight because I was so impressed. I have corrected my post.

124MPH with a 3600lb Z32 means you are making some serious HP. Nice! I like the race against the late model Camaro. You tree'd him bad. Your camcorder operator seems to be a big fan.

Here's the specs: http://www.mavericksolutions.co.uk/websites/redvictor1racing.co.uk/TECH.HTM

Cool Doug. Yet another trick I didn't know about. I assume you've done this successfully to your L28?

This thread sure ended in disappointment... I was hoping to see some time slips from somebody.

This is a great deal but unfortunatley I need two grooves on my damper instead of the default single groove. This is from Powerforce website: "The front of the pulley has two tapped holes that would allow special fabricated pulleys to be adapted to the front of the damper if needed for additional accessory drives." Has anyone fabricated a second pulley yet?

I actually use Megalog viewer for my Tec3 logs. It's far superior to log viewer that is included with the Electromotive WinTec software. I have made the most progress with tuning AFR's by importing the log output into an Excel. I build a scatter chart that plots AFR levels that correspond to the cell in my VE table. The X axis is RPM and the Y axis is MAP. That way I know what cell to adjust and by how much. The only thing it doesn't account for is exhaust velocity. The combustion event that requires an adjustment occurs earlier in the cell or possibly even a preceding cell as RPM rises. I'm not an Excel expert but I was thinking of adding a formula that progressively subtracts RPM from the value in the cell so it shows a more accurate plot. Just a thought.

I would have agree with your instructor a few months ago but there are now a few apps that say they can edit AVCHD aka M2TS such as Nero 7 and Ulead. I haven't personally tried any yet. I agree that the 3-CCD is a differentiator for the Panasonic units. When it comes to camcorders I usually prefer Sony or Canon but the HDC-SD1 just seems to be the best unit for the money. I also like the idea of no hard disk drive to fail since it's all SD memory. Supposedly the included 4GB card will provide 40min of recording time. SanDisk has just released an 8GB SD card which will be even better.