jgkurz

One more thing I forgot to mention on my post was that I blocked off the below coolant port in the front of my block. This port was added only to protect the engine in the case of a plugged radiator. If left open, some coolant is allowed to bypass the radiator completely. Since I will never have a plugged radiator and I always watch my gauges I tapped and blocked this hole so all my coolant went through the radiator.

I was at Bonneville Speed Week this year and was able to see the Blow Fish in person. On one of the runs it went 262mph in the 5th mile. Not sure if it got a record but it sure sounded amazing going across the salt. Definitely did NOT sound like a 4-banger. Here's one of my favorite cars that went 300mph. http://www.kugelkomponents.com/bonneville/bonneville.html

I agree. I'd guess the video was taking from an idling engine. Still very cool.

I had my turbine housing covered with the black ceramic coating a few years ago and it's holding up well. No flaking or other problems.

I think this is the R200 cover from Greddy. I would love to have one of these!

One more thought. I personally have on occasion posted a emotional response that I went back and deleted because it was probably inappropriate or against the rules. The delete and edit features have allowed me to be a better HybridZ citizen. I realize the problem that the delete and edit features cause but I also wanted to make sure everyone realizes that keeping them functional will possible reduce administration overhead from people like myself. Just a data point to consider as you are working on a solution.

If the deleted data is valuable can the posts be restored or are we out of luck?

Other than the usual used car issues that a 21 year old may have, I'm not aware of any issues with the 86 300ZXT. It's the same old VG30ET that has great reliability and can typically make power easier than the L28. The major bonus is the car has an intercooler. In the stock form, I have always liked the 86 turbo styling over the other Z31's. The only issue I can think of is that the LSD R200 didn't come until later but that's easy to fix if the car is a keeper.

I have a 77z with 240z Euro bumpers. I made the mounts myself and could take pictures if you'd like.

Sorry draga240z but this is the only one I'll be making. I'm just too slow at fabricating for it to be worth while. Thank you for the comment though. I would be happy to provide information on where I got the parts and which ones to buy if it would help. BTW, I'm flattered that this post was worthy of your first HybridZ showing. Welcome.

Thanks Justin. Looks like PIR is closed already. Woodburn is racing till 10/14. If I can get the car tuned I'll try and make one of the October dates. The fall air should make big HP. Woodburn Drag strip Schedule: Sept. 30 Sun ET Racing & JDRL (Jr. Points End) 9 am Oct. 7 Sun ET Racing / Jr. Fun Day / Powder Puff 9 am Oct 14 Sun ET Racing & Jr. Dragsters 9 am

Thank you Scottie. The 11.7 on street tires is encouraging. I'm guessing that was in a 240z so I'll settle for 11.999 with my heavier 280z. Part of my summer project was to improve my exhaust system. I now have a full 3" mandrel system with a straight through muffler. Due to the turbo it's actually quieter then I thought it would be.

You would know huh.. .

You may be right about the turbo sizing but the DP and exhaust upgrade needed to happen anyway. My plan is to go to a GT35R maybe next summer. Check out post #4 on the below thread for my dyno sheet and EFI parameters. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=122406&highlight=dyno

Looks like 3.5.6 was just released. Not sure what changes were made.

I also thought my 2.5" DP would have supported 400RWHP. I tried for a long time to find HP in other parts of my setup. I just couldn't get there. Yes it did have the factory internal wastegate. I did modify the turbo outlet to 2.25" and ported the wastegate. However, boost creep was never the issue. Strangely, boost would always bleed off as RPM and HP went up. This symptom still occurred even with an extraordinarily strong spring in my custom wastegate actuator. Finally I attributed the boost bleed to backpressure pushing the internal wastegate flapper open. The 2.5" DP may have gotten me to 400RWHP if I could just keep the wastegate from blowing open. Like you inferred, my new larger DP with the Tial wastegate should cure some or all of my problems.

Thanks Hugh. It's the Cermachrome which was done by RM Engineering. I'm a little worried about the coating if my EGT's get too high. My last DP had the same coating and had no trouble so we'll see. The welding was done by myself, my friend Bruce who has an awesome MIG setup and Hutchen's for the stuff I wanted TIG'd. Horsepower Freaks is a cool place but I prefer to spend time on a dyno where I can take my time analyzing data and adjusting parameters without a crowd of people watching over my shoulder. Maybe I'm bashful but it's what works best for me. I usually go to RRev Motorsports on Hayden Island. They have a DynoJet Model 224xLC with Eddy Current, wideband and boost reference. You are welcome to come over to the house if you'd like. I live in OC now.

Thanks Nigel. Since this unit took me all summer I think I'll pass on making more. I'm a capable fabricator, just really slowwwwww. I figured you meant the last one. . Thanks for the comments.

As some of you may know my car has been out of commission for a while due to some various upgrades. The major upgrade is a new downpipe and wastegate. Last summer, while on the dyno, I found that the car really was done making power after about 5200 rpm. The turbo I have was built for more than 371RWHP which is what the number I put down at the time. This coupled with some other symptoms lead me to believe I had a serious back pressure issue. It may be the turbo but I wanted to first start with the exhaust systems. My turbo is a custom job by Innovative so I don't know much about the compressor side. The turbine side is Nissan .63 with a stageV 10 blade wheel. Supposedly it'll support 500RWHP. The first DP in the picture is a stock L28ET unit. I never actually used it since Scottie-GNZ was making 2.5" mandrel bent DP's for a reasonable price. That is the 2nd DP in the picture and the one I made 371RWHP with. As I did more research I noticed that most everyone who had my setup was using a 3" DP. My original thought was that the 2.5" DP was fine but I now believe I was just asking too much of such a small pipe. BTW, my exhaust was 3" mandrel with one crush bend just under the diff. It's all 3" mandrel now. The 3rd pipe in the picture was purchased from another HybridZ'er. It's 3" but as I looked at it I felt I could make one better yet. I never ran #3. That brings us to the 4th. This is the one I just finished. I haven't started the car yet but I think it'll make a big improvement over the 2.5" DP. I tried hard to use long radius pipes and made sure the immediate exit from the turbo was a quick but with a smooth transition to 3". Lastly, I also wanted straight pipe out of the turbo instead of an immediate bend downward. I also wanted to get away from the internal wastegate. Luckily I found a flange on eBay that was made just for the Nissan turbine housing. I purchased some mandrel pipes and started cutting and welding. DP #4 is the end result. My ultimate goal is to get past that huge mountain of 400RWHP and to run an 11.99 in the 1/4 mile. All on gasoline, no NOS or water/methanol injection. All my other components support my goal but so far it has alluded me. Once I get the car back on the road I will be doing some AFR tuning then off to the drag strip and dyno to see if the new DP made a difference. Wish me luck.

Very cool Ron. I have also thought of putting small switches under the lid of my console but in the front small compartment. I'm all about the incognito look. You could also call it the "sleeper", "anti-bling, or "anti-ricer" look. Which car did you add the switches to? The black 280z?

I have run straight Etheylene-Glycol before and I noticed a significant reduction in cooling ability. Personally I wouldn't recommend it. As soon as I added water to change the mixture to roughly 50/50 the engine cooled much better. Just my experience....

Very interesting. I've always run Water Wetter but never really knew whether it was making a difference, hence the reason I didn't post my experiences. Should the conclusion from your testing be that the Water Wetter may have somehow improved cooling in the cylinder head to the point that detonation was reduced? I'm not sure how WW could have affected detonation in any other part of the engine.

Tim, This is the most valuable information in this whole thread.... I've always thought ceramic coating was a great idea in theory but I couldn't really prove it was worth the cost and effort. I've always wondered how you could run so much boost and not detonate. I'm sure there are many other factors but this has to be one of them.

I don't have an EGT gauge in my car so I can't speak for my setup but several other highly modded turbo L28 cars have reported 1600 degree EGT's or more to be common, especially on the dyno. I've also read that lowering your AFR's doesn't seem to make much impact on the temps, at least on the L28. I also understand that changing ignition timing doesn't solve the problem either. My guess is it has something to do with the cam profile. Possibly too much overlap. Water/Methanol injection is the only viable option I can think of that would make a real difference. Take a look at some posts by TimZ. That should be a good start.

Don't laugh... it's been done. Granted it's probably more old school when large injector sizes were not available.