jgkurz

It should run in the 11's After looking at the logs and data, boost was at 25psi give or take. Unfortunately my gauge only goes up to 20psi. On my final dyno run I turned my EBC off and made 326HP at 13psi. If I had a GT35R turbo I bet I could make the same power levels at a much lower psi, but that's another project. Manifold air temps peaked at 49C/120.2F under max boost and with the engine heat soaked from several pulls. Ambient temp was read at 67F by the DynoJet. BTW, can anyone explain the difference between SAE and uncorrected as it relates to dynamometer HP?

I updated both graphs to show the HP in red and TQ in blue. That should be easier to compare. Also, there are two runs on the last graph. The HP increase was from less back pressure and the ability to keep the boost consistent throughout the RPM range. With the smaller DP the boost would come up then fall as the RPM (backpressure) went up. Now it just stays flat.

I took the day off work and went to the dyno this morning to see how much difference my recent upgrades made. The first graph from June 2006 is with an internal wastegate and a 2.5" downpipe. The second graph from today is with a 3" downpipe and external wastegate. Both graphs are SAE corrected. I'm guessing this is the fairest comparison since uncorrected shows higher numbers. I'm happy with the results but still need to do some AFR tuning at the top end. 6/30/06 11/9/07

It might make 400HP with the Vortec heads. The cam will be the key component. Take a look at this article for reference. http://www.rustpuppy.org/chp/Welcome.html

My closest race was against a 2005 supercharged Z06. I beat him off the line and barely held him through the traps. I won the race by .1481 sec but he ran a quicker ET. He wasn't happy about getting beat by a Datsun... Here's the time slip.

The max I've seen on the data log from the MAT (Manifold Air Temp) sensor is 46C/114.8F. That was during "heat soaked" dyno pull with ambient temps at 80F and 23psi peak boost. Laste weekend while on the freeway I logged 30C/86F at 21psi peak boost. Outside temp was around 55F. Look at post #38 on the below thread for another example. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121857&page=2

Perfectly put. You articulated my thoughts almost exactly. I drove an S30 for years as my only car but it just doesn't make sense for me any longer. I'd rather enjoy my Z on the weekends and in decent weather then put wear and tear on it in the daily commute. Parts are getting harder and harder to find so I figure it'll last longer if I keep it tucked away in my garage during the week. BTW, Ron see a pattern developing. S30, E30....what's next a Mercedes C30?

Congrats Hugh. It's always a sigh of relief when I pass emissions. . I keep forgetting to request the Baxters discount. Thanks for the reminder. I agree that 14.7 should produce the best emissions but when I tuned for 14.3 I breezed right though without having to do the 2nd idle test. I'm pretty sure my O2 is calibrated properly so I'm not sure what to think. Maybe it was the other changes that made the big difference and richer idle was not enough to be a problem. If you don't live in a DEQ area (outside of the major cities) you just have to pay your registration. If you live in a DEQ area you will need to do an emissions test for any car 1974 and newer. Unfortunately there are no antique exemptions.

You just made my day. I don't like the Aztek any more than I did before but that's a great perspective.

This thread brings back a sore subject for me. Unfortunately I married into owning an Aztek. Embarrassing but true. My wonderful wife loves the Aztek and it's ability to haul our large Rottweiler and the groceries at the same time. My nick name for it is the Pontiac A$$crak or Aztruck. It does come in handy when I need to haul things to the dump although I've been tempted to drive it in. On the positive side, my wife hauls all my tools and supplies to the race track in it. It's also paid for and my wife isn't asking for anything like a Cadillac Escalade so I guess we'll keep it. It's also the only car I own that I'd take on the Bonneville Salt Flats since it's mostly made of plastic..

Just guessing but it might be member "Jeromio" http://240z.jeromio.com/

I generally believe in the term "Never enough horsepower" but this would scare me. ThustSSC (Jet Powered) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fr0KdxhYgfY http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtszDGW0eKQ Burklands (Internal Combustion Powered)

I set my rev limit at 7K with SoftRev and "No Fuel Cut". My max shift RPM is about 6500RPM so I've never hit my rev limiter. When I get a chance I'll drop it down to 3K and report back the results. BTW, I never cut fuel on the rev limiter as this may cause just enough of a lean condition to damage a turbocharged engine.

550HP might be enough to get a very aerodynamic car to 200MPH. The non G-nose S30 body style and especially this car with the open grill wouldn't make it to 200mph. It would probably would be airborne around 180mph.

I vote for sticky! This is for S30 and S130. Correct?

Thanks Rick.

Rick, What type (brand and p/n if you have it) injectors are you running? Also, what pulse width do you have to use to get a stoic idle? Thanks!

To get it into the 10's I would need slicks and 50 to 75 more HP. Even then I'm sure I'd end up breaking something. I'll be back to the track but not to hit the 10's. My problem now is I now need a driveline loop and a roll bar since I went past 11.49.

Thanks but don't worry. You'll have me beat for a long time. Next season I plan on doing little to no drag racing and more track days and auto-crossing. Ironically that's what I built the car for.

Darn, they won't fit. Thanks for the offer.

Nice catch. I must have left the previous info in the cell. . It's corrected and now matches my time slip. I'd be interested in the injectors but I don't think they'd fit my rail. Mine are the 11mm o-ring DSM style. Are yours similar? Here's a link: http://www.rceng.com/Peak-Hold-Injector-PL9-0550-P17C5.aspx

It's not an RB but Garrett76Zt is at 460RWHP with a stock cam on his L28ET.

Garrett, I finally got my 1.7 60ft. Thanks for being a believer...

Excellent! The Optima spacer will work perfectly. Thanks for the quick response.

Ok, I know the title sounds strange but it's the most accurate description I could think of. Here's my problem. I bought a new Optima battery for my 1977 280Z and it's roughly 1.25" shorter than the OEM battery. I got a deal on the Optimal so I want to make it work. Basically I need to lift it up 1.25" so the battery hold down mounts to the firewall and fits properly over all. I priced 1.25" thick plexiglass and it's $50.00 for a 12x12 piece. Wow! I don't want to fabricate the battery hold down to accommodate the short battery and I don't want to use wood. Any idea where I could find a piece of 1.25" plastic or other material?