jgkurz

Tony, Personally I'm a big fan of cast iron turbo exhaust manifolds on the street simply for the reliability. I believe the slip joint header mentioned above is TimZ's which helped him make 607RWHP. Wow! If I went turbo header the Greddy unit get's my vote. If I ever came across a Euro spec manifold I'd have to give that a try too. Highly doubtful I'll ever find one though. Can you get us any pictures? The BRE unit is also better than the US L28ET manifold. Actually a highly modified version of the BRE is what is on the Bonneville car. A turbo header at Bonneville just doesn't hold up well to the extreme heat.

God bless us, every one!

22K is top dollar for a Z but I've got to say I love this car. Very clean. Kind of looks like my car but with better paint, carpet, color glass interior, exterior...etc. Well maybe not.

I have a Turbo XS R34 BOV and it works great. I just added shims to tighten the spring pressure as recommended in the manual. Tech support is available by phone and is helpful. Just my experience.

My guess is he's just scratching the surface with a 9.70 run. The car looks crazy fast. Definitely intimidating...

My AFR's are read by the FJO WBO2 controller built into my EFI. I consider it very accurate. I do not have a catalytic converter. My car is a Federal 1977 and did not come with one. Using the hotter OEM spark plugs plugs with a wide gap definitely help me pass emissions testing as compared to my normal plugs.

I recently welded up a downpipe and the flange warped as well. I just had my machinist surface it flat. I have not had to use any sealant.

That's impressive Hugh. You're a musician and an engineer.....kind of rare I think. I'm just a left-brained type. You seem to be using both side of your brain..

If it's using an L28 block and head I'd say yes....

One more thing. As far as I'm aware, James Thagard - HybridZ user "240Z Turbo" has the best time for a street driven L28 Z. 10.624@134.15mph Check it out... http://www.speedshopthagard.com/projects/240Z_twinturbo/index.html

I was thinking the same thing...

Checkout this 280z. Runs 10.76 and still has an airflow meter...

My G-force T5 is also holding up well. It's taken plenty of punishment and hasn't missed a beat. The only down side is the gearset is much noisier than stock. For me the durability was well worth the extra noise. I had mine built with some extra strength items like a G-force reinforced case so I can use it in a Bonneville LSR application someday. It's suppose to hold well above 600bhp but there are never any guarantees....

Why did you pull the new cam out? It sounded great. Did you have a same Elgin cam as TimZ? If so, you're that's a HUGE cam.

If you chose the .63 turbine housing then the hot side is the same as my turbo. Your compressor is much larger than mine. You should make power at a lower boost level.

In my experience, adding fuel to richen your air fuel ratio will never raise EGT's. Too much fuel will bring down power but it will also cool the charge hence lowering EGT's. Typically, advancing timing will reduce EGT's but then you get into detonation problems if you go too far. It's a fine line. I do agree that to achieve optimum efficiency from an engine you cannot assume one AFR is correct for a broad range of RPM. However, I think it's extrordinarily difficult to 1) determine what AFR is best at each RPM/load point and 2) to tune to the desired AFR once it's know. For that reason I make some broader generalizations on what AFR to run at what load point.

Nice!! Next is big lopey cam right? I made it though by a small margin but I wouldn't say I just squeaked by. This is my third time through. The first three times I didn't pass 1st idle so they made me do the 2500rpm run up then tested for 2nd idle. I was surprised to see that emissions get much better on the 2nd idle test even though I didn't pass. I went home and figured out the issues and passed the next day on just the 1st idle test. Here are the results for the 4th test that passed.

Dave, At 12.5:1 my EGT's would be too high. In my WOT datalogs I'll tolerate spikes to 12.2 and down to 11.5 but with average of 12. That's the goal even though I haven't got it perfect yet. BTW, I figured out what you meant regarding the graph colors. You are right. It was confusing.

I was looking over my dyno graphs in the WinPEP software (awesome tool BTW) and wanted to better understand the differences between runs 9 and 10 on the 11/9/2007 graph. Basically, what was the reason for the delta between the two runs? For run 010 I changed some values on my fuel MAP which translated to a more torque but much less horsepower. Notice the rich condition on run 010 indicated by the large dip at 5863rpm. I obviously have more tuning to do but this really shows how power is affected by AFR. My observation is that an air fuel ratio of 12 to 12.2:1 makes best power. Of course, keeping EGT's down is a HUGE factor to consider in addition to tuning for peak HP/TQ At 5863rpm: Red/Run 9 was at 11.91 AFR (443.78HP) Blue/Run 10 was at 10.54 AFR (400.07HP) At 4674rpm: Red/Run 9 was at 11.40 AFR (459.73TQ) Blue/Run 10 was at 12.02 AFR (468.92TQ)

Beautiful engine Yasin!!!! You should definitely make your HP goals. I'll be watching with great anticipation as you progress. A few questions for you. 1) Do you know what the full specs of your turbo are? 2) When you start building your base fuel map you might consider running a bit more pressure than the rated 43.5psi (3-bar). I also have 550cc injectors and you will probably get close to 100% duty cycle if you make the power your engine is capable of. No need to upgrade just add more base pressure and you should be be fine. 3) What damper are you running? I noticed you have the trigger wheel in the back which is what I prefer.

Thanks Doug. It was the "perfect pass" as Scottie-GNZ would say. Take a look at post#7 by in the following thread. It's Scottie's spreadsheet calculator that I used. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=814356#post814356

I've had great luck with these folks for all my mandrel and exhaust needs. Columbia River Mandrel Bending http://store.racing-solutions.org/ First you would need two 45deg bends. They come in 4" or 6" radius so you have to pick the ones that fits your car the best. 6" is better for flow. The hard part will be finding a flange that mounts to the turbo that you can weld the pipe onto. I lucked out and found my flange on eBay. I don't know of a retail location to buy a flange for the Nissan style turbine hosing. Most likely your turbo outlet will not be 3" so you have to have some sort of taper to the 3" pipe. Columbia River Mandrel also has the 3-bolt flanges to bolt up your exhaust after the downpipe. For the wastegate pipes I used all mandrel 1.5" pipes. There wasn't room for a bellow. I got the wastegate flanges came with the Tial wastegate. Hope that helps.

Z-Gad, The dyno shop I went to here in Portland is named RRev Motorsports. They are a big Supra shop and asked me if I knew you being that I was a Z enthusiast and all.. Apparently they were impressed with your setup...

Rick, your car has been an inspiration to me. I've spent most of my time trying to get in the same ballpark performance wise. It seems I'm a couple years behind you. Once you get the Buick V6 done the game will be over. No... Your car sounds a lot like my old setup. I had problems with the internal wastegate blowing open and bleeding boost. The 60-1 is a great turbo for the L28 but, in my opinion, needs at least a 3" DP to bring out it's potential. Thanks Yasin. I look forward to the pics.

Here are uncorrected versions. They are a bit more generous.. 6/30/06 11/9/07