jgkurz

I fabbed my own O ring rail about six months before a couple folks started producing them. It was a major PITA. You will need a good drill press. Not the Craftsman type but a real machinist drill press. You will need to measure your injector spacing with dial calipers and with them secured and centered in their respective ports. Next you will need a special hole reamer to properly surface the course surface after drilling. Once that's done you will need to fabricate the mounts, fuel pressure regulator and fuel line fittings. Have I convinced you yet?????

I had a slight piston slap problem with a mildly upgraded N/A L28 in my 78Z. It was noticable when the car was fully warmed up and idling. The casual observer probably never noticed. FWIW, I abused that engine for years and it never got worse.

Wow... It's the simple things that get us in the end. Glad you found the problem. My next stop is the Magnecor website to order up some plug wires. I run decent Taylor wires but you've convinced me I need to upgrade.

350 RWHP... are you kidding or are you just being humble...?? My 3.0L L28ET with nearly a stock P90 head, non-EGR N42 intake, stock L28ET exhaust manifold made 371 RWHP on a DynoJet 224xLC. This was with a smaller T4/T3 turbo than what you have in your pics. If you have the budget for a GT35R I can almost guarantee you will surpass you HP goals. Just my opinion but you should be closer to 400 to 425 RWHP. The JamieT intake is very nice. If they were still available I'd buy one myself. 240Zed: The exhaust header was from a group buy about 4 years ago through South Florida Perfomance. I think they are out of business. Maybe someone who knows more could chime in. The only L6 turbo header option I'm aware of now is a custom built unit or finding something used.

What a great find. A twin turbo 383 should be a lot of fun to drive. BTW, what happened to the son....? Did they tell you?

Hi Justin, I just realized where I've seen your car. I drive across the Ross Island bridge to hit I-5 South. I actually remember seeing it then noticed the hood was damaged. Glad to see Ron and Paul could help you out. I kind of like the flat black on yellow look. John

The folks at Isky can help but like most camshaft manufacturers generally are not experts on the L6. You will need to have some idea about what you want. HybridZ has a decent amount of threads discussing camshafts. If you cannot find what you need just start a new thread by listing your engine specs and perfromance desires. Hope that helps....

I have nothing but good things to say about Isky cams. My cam (p/n 7181) was ground on a new billet and was exactly what I expected from a performance and driveabilty standpoint.

Clifton, Just curious, how much timing do you run at say 10, 15 and 20psi? Right now I'm running 29 at 10psi, 26 at 15psi and 24 at 20psi. I've seen as much as 3 or 4 degrees more timing is some other folks setup.

I think they are under warranty so I may do a swap. I might try one more bleed on that caliper alone to see if it helps before I tear things apart.

Auxilary, Thanks for the suggestion. If I shorten the MC rod wouldn't that affect all the brakes? Just my front right locks up when I'm hard on the brakes. The initial braking is not harsh at all.

Hi Folks, I have a braking problem I'm hoping to get some input on. First let me give you some background. My car is a 77 280Z that I have upgraded to the S12W Toyota 4 piston calipers with 300ZX vented rotors on the front. The rear has 240SX calipers with 300ZX rotors. All calipers are remanufactured with new high quality rotors. All brake lines are Goodridge with a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve from Modern Motorsports. The MC is a new 15/16 unit with ATE® Super Blue fluid. I am reasonably confident that the system has no air in it since the pedal is good and solid. There are a couple symptoms to my problem. First is the perceived fade I get compared to previous Z’s. It may be the larger 15/16 master cylinder but the brakes just don’t seem to grab as well as I had hoped. This is with both KVR Carbon Fibre and Porterfield R4S pads. I’ve tried both brands on all four corners. The second problem is my front right brake locks up under EXTREME braking. If I’m doing a hard stop after going through the traps at the drag strip or on a road race track, the front right will lock up prior to all the other brakes. What’s strange is the car brakes evenly and acceptably in all other situations. I’m thinking about going back to the 7/8 master cylinder to troubleshoot the fade but I’m not sure where to start with the lock-up problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

DemonZ - I just happen to have a set of cleaned and flowed 440cc injectors for sale. I ran them my Z for a short period. I swapped them out for larger 550's. Send me a PM if you are interested.

Are you guy's going to the Canby event? http://www.datsunsnw.org/canby06.html

FWIW, I also run the Isky 7181 cam in my car. Not sure how accurate this is, but here's the difference Desktop Dyno see's between the 7181 and 7151 cams. The top line with the dots is the 7181. Both cams were setup with a 3.0L L28 and a mild P90. My dyno numbers with the Isky 7181 cam match this chart pretty closely if adjusted for drivetrain loss.

Paul, On my low compression turbo L28 I run 40 BTDC at cruise. I've had people tell me even this is too much. The most I've ever seen is on a similar engine is 42. The dyno will tell all but you might consider dropping it down a touch. Just my .02C BTW, I can't wait to see the finished car at Canby! Congrats on getting it going.

Been there, done that.... Mine was a late 280ZX NA 5spd with the .75 OD. I went to a G-Force T-5 to avoid future breakage.

Mike, Please see my corrected post above regarding the speedo gear. Thanks for catching the typo. I had my transmission beefed beyond what most people do since I'll be using it for other applications later on. Basically I had Kevin build the T-5 as strong as possible. The G-Force gears in mine are 2.94, 1.94, 1.34, 1.00 and .75. I had the mainshaft upgraded to a 9310 alloy. The case is a reinforced G-Force unit that has additional bearing support. The input shaft is a Chevy 26 spline that is machined for a L28 pilot bushing. The output shaft is a 28 spline Ford (Same as a C4). I think there may be other ratios available. Mine were ideal so I didn't look much further. The transmission can be used with almost any engine that's compatible with a T-5. This assumes you change the bell housing and possibly the input shaft. If you are interested the best thing to do is to call Kevin at the Gear Box. He'll do a good job for you. Be prepared to open your wallet and wait a month or two for delivery. http://www.g-forcetransmissions.com/tran_gt-5.asp http://www.thegearbox.org/index.html John

The G-Force T-5 from Kevin at the Gearbox is not rebuilt. It's a completely new transmission. The only major thing Kevin requires is the 83 280ZXT T-5 tailshaft and the plastic speedo gear on the mainshaft. Everything else is brand new. Transmissions are not my expertise so I have any serious work done by a professional. I like to put them in once without worrying about whether I did things correctly. John

Hi Folks, Well I finally got my new Gforce T-5 in and so far it’s working well. I did some major modifications to the shifter so it would be centered in the console but other than that it wasn’t too difficult. The transmission is extremely loud in a Z. The nearly straight cut gears are unnervingly loud. This is with Royal Purple gear oil/Synchromax mixture.The new transmission plus the typical R200 differential noise, lowered suspension and full 3” exhaust are starting to make my car annoying to be in for long periods. It's hard to hear the radio. My desire was to build a car I enjoyed driving to the beach in but could also race it on weekends. So far I’m not there yet. My next major Z expense will probably be seats, carpet and sound deadener. As it is now, I’m not sure anyone else would want to ride with me. The little L6 sure gets up and goes though...... John

Didn't the Z32TT 250mm clutch disk go well past the 240mm flywheel surface? I'm not sure where the advantage is if you can't use more flywheel surface. John