Mudge

The Clymer is LOADED, 346 pages not including the MANY wiring diagrams, covering 79-82 NA/Turbo. This book rules.

Ouch, RBs seem like nice engines but 500RWHP out of an LS1 is childs play NA, IF you get the right heads, and I've seen some real duds out there, of course I like everyone have a favorite porter LS1 with ported heads (not LS6), stock bottom, 230/242 hydraulic cam and LS6 intake puts out 470 RWHP when tuned, 6 speed of course. http://www.advancedinduction.com Site may not be much, but Phil and his buddy are super-porters. Budget ported LT1 car put out 412 to the wheels with a 230/238 Ultradyne. Keep in mind most peoples "Stage II" fully ported heads claim higher numbers than are FACTUAL, and hardly ever see north of 400 RWHP on LT1 cars. Phils buddy is a school of SAM graduate and does some high profile stuff, they will get my biz with every car I put heads on. Turbo cars can make awesome power, but why not do it with cubes. Trying to stretch 4 and 5 HP per cube out of a tiny engine gets EXPENSIVE, no matter how impressive it is, it will also be very peaky power unless you go with a progressive turbo setup, or a quad progressive turbo setup like some of Porsche's hot 1.1M, 100 car limited production uber-Porch. The local fast turbo GN guy on the BAMotor list got rid of the six which was doing something north of 1100 HP, and now has a 1680HP V8 which got him out of his former low-9 life.

Yep, hydraulics fail, my dad knew a guy that lost both his legs due to a hydraulic failure on some industrial equipment.

I love cars, but only consider myself semi knowlegeable. My experience is some common sense (yeah right), alot of reading, and wrenching mostly on my 94 LT1 (411/385 at the wheels NA). Your about 90 miles from me but I'd be up for something, maybe a track day or something? There is supposed to be one I believe May 17th at Sac. http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=18650&start=45 Yep, May 17th I've also been a member of the local mailing lists for a few years, really good info and lots of experienced drag and road racers on the list http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bamotor/ Primarily Chevy guys, but one other 240Z guy, former MR2 owner, spec RX7 racer (and TA owner) so there is some variety albeit not much.

I will bring up the first gen Fbody again it will NOT handle big power without building up the chassis, much less an 800 pounds lighter Japanese car that only had 130 HP stock!!! Subframe connectors and a fat cage, and tie them together and I think you may do ok. Beyond having the cage go through the firewall I would also consider motor plates at that point, but that may be overkill - you are going to have to do something with that cross member, easier to fab it yourself IMO because I seriously doubt a stout 700HP is going to last on a peice of tin foil like that. I will tell you without a doubt, the metal on my 69 Firebird was ALOT thicker guage than what is on my 73 240Z (the beefiest of the 240s), you barely touch the 240 body and it will give way where you had to punch the Firebird to get it to dent, and then the dent was stuck there, oops. Those particular cars will break at the rear window near the trunk, around the door area, crack city. Plus with age setting in, its already working against you much less being merely an old school MIATA! I could believe that an aluminum block would stand 700HP though, the C5R is around there buuuuut it is a better block, price tag is some sticker shock though. With the iron block it would be easier to go for the big number (cubes!) and have pretty gauranteed reliability at least as far as the block twisting itself to death goes. As far as old SBC Motown block etc vs an LS1 setup, they both can make the power, but I have to admit to liking factory EFI stuff from GM lately, I only have an LT1 so I'm limited to 7k RPM, although hey there is always Megasquirt. As far as the computers themselves though you will get good BSFC if you know your tuning, and make power across the band a bit better than a carbed car (unless you are a carb wizard, bah). So I myself like the idea of an LS1, if you are going to stick with 700HP at the crank then the block may take it, I've seen them semi cheap at http://www.corvetteforum.com but I'd consider an iron block, just a thought, I dont know how much its going to twist and distort under power to the point where you have to throw your block away after x number of races, so ask around on that one.

600 is not all that much horsepower, the Fords have forged pistons stock, not sure about the rest - but Chevy engines get "forged" rods but being factory forged, they aren't as good as aftermarket stuff, and a 350 crank in the LT1 would take 600 HP but they get sloppy under power, not good. I am no Ford expert but I believe it, there was a twin turbo Ferd that blue its internals, but I was under the impression it may have been tuning, ping and you are probably going to kill it. I know that the late model LT1 will suck up about 550 HP safely on hyper pistons, they will take 600 HP for "awhile" but will eventually bend a rod if not break something first, and being a high compression engine with only 2 bolt mains (Fbody) it was never meant for big power without building it up, but it still handles 2x stock power (again, for awhile, 550 is pretty damn safe if you can tune and cross your fingers).

Look around cylinder #5 on the passenger side of the head and you should find the numbers. http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/heads.html

Yeah, I know at least one person who religiously lubes the jack each and every use, dont know if that really helps the seals or not though. Some of the "nicer" Sears jacks have been failing badly like that, catastrophic, within 1-3 years of ownership, my jack cost over $300 so it better last!

Alot of elderly deaths around me as well lately, one similar (bad liver issue) which was my girlfriends mother. When it got really bad though thankfully it didn't last long, from the time her skin got darker it took about 2 weeks, she knew for 2 years apperantly and didn't tell anyone (old mexican woman, stubborn).

My friends that moved up there (Eugene) were renting a 2 bedroom house, for $270 a month, that was about 2.5 years ago.

Unless there is a warranty issue (I assume not), crack it open and find out!

TT350 are you going to convert to an iron block?

Megasquirt AVR http://x-dsl.hu/genboard/ http://caffrey.dk/megasquirt/ http://megasquirtavr.sourceforge.net/

Good posting Scottie, F1 cars are a "great" example, major downforce and fat tires, shoot the F3000 cars by themselves haul ass and they "only" have 450 HP.

Yeah, it wont account for an entire inch (have you checked your springs?), but if you can move them any noticeable amount they are dead and will get worse fast. Is there nothing obviously wrong with the half shafts when looking at the rear end? I would think something would have to be pretty whack, either springs or something busted, or A arm stuff coming off the car litterally.

Yeah those that dont hang on the boards are on eBay, and some are on both, I sold my Weber downdrafts on eBay for a decent price. Took me months to get rid of my F54 flattop shortblock, and I only got about 1/3 of my moola back.

I know at least one person that moved up there not too long ago, couple others that moved to Eugene about 2 1/2 years ago, and several others that fled to AZ. Seems tempting to move out of state, been thinking about it for a few years and OR was definately a consideration, and less drastic than moving to Mexico which the woman suggested, Sonora MX a couple hundred clicks south of Tuscon AZ.

Wow! Automagic VE

No smog checks? Cool. You do NOT fill up your own tank in OR, there is one other state with a similar law. Kind of wierd for me pulling up to a full service station! I visited Eugene so I dont know about Klamath, Eugene is cold, rains alot, and is the hippy town of OR, and doggon housing is dirt cheap!

Out of near 50 deals on eBay of buying/selling I had only one deadbeat bidder, sold it later for even more. ZCar.com seems good for dumping stock parts, I found a buyer for my 3.90 through there, those are the people interested in stock parts, people here dont often want to be stock for long.

Pricing was not easy to find, I'd go with a T56 long before something like this, way to much moola, unless you wanted something with dog rings, or there is the weight thing. http://www.g-forcetransmissions.com/tran_price.asp

I'm going to assume your talking about the bends, not the rod ends?

I like to drive fast, but I wont be doing wheelies on the freeway any time soon either, people really f up thier lives doing that.

I agree, plus a boost activated only fan seems kind of a half working solution, if a switch was added in the circuit also that would be something. What I'd look at though is something like the race teams used back when the turbo 280s were raced in SCCA, which is basically duct work to ensure forced air is going past the IC, as opposed to just random air.

There is a PN for adapting the 240 tach to the MSD, the instructions can be found at ZCar.com , PN is 8910HSI.