Mudge

Enkei Kriminal 23"x10" 60 pounds, enough said. Is this what we'd call black rice? All the cost of a good wheel, minus the performance = pretend your rich. Asian folks have the fake BOV and boyee racer look = pretend your fast, mexicans have thier neon wiper blades, mud flaps and fuzzy die = confusion?, and I guess the white guys just copy thier prefered bling of choice. Yes I'm white, no I'm not a racist, it just is funny how each "rice" is different, and yet performance is not usually in the mix, just looks.

Not quite sure how you could do that at home effectively, sounds like a great way to get the rotors seasoned for the pads to bed in on though. I have used Hawk HPS (blacks) on my Camaro and they are great, sorry to hear poor feedback on the Z car, I wonder why.

I have cable, because I get internet/phone and TV for $129 a month, and my long distance is FREE. I get 3mbit down and 1mbit up internet wise, which is thee fastest upstream I've ever had, on any cable or DSL, minus when I worked at companies with full duplexed T1s, but for home it is blistering. As for actual throughput I've uploaded at 93kB/s, downstream I dont pay much attention too, when it gets in the 300-400kB/s range its fast enough for me, I've been broadband for close to 4 years. I also wanted Speed chan, aka NASCRAP TV

72HP/90TQ 2136 pounds, 1.6L 4 speed stick and I had torque steer. I could also do a burnout in this POS, although some of that torque steer issue is by design.

http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=19705 6 TB setup no turbo though. I dont see it being easy on a turbo setup, and would it really be worth it? Even if you gained 1-3% performance, I think it would be too much hassle. If there is proof of uneven fuel distribution though, then it might be worth checking into I suppose. Custom header would be about my first priority, and then intake manifold/runner length, but I dont see myself playing with TB stuff to much other than an upgraded size.

I would say you could get pretty darn close without pulling the rail, and that should be good enough for the rail, doesn't have to be within thousandths of an inch. But, I understand wanting to do it dead on, good luck!

I didn't even notice a light, yours is an 82 also? Have you seen my other thread in the Turbo section? Its near the top, looks like I have 3 major things that are promising to check/fix.

An option too, is to look at the base fuel pressure for the injector and change your own base level to where the injector would flow within a range that wouldn't have you running overly rich. I suppose along with the rising rate regulatory, you may even decide to turn it up at the track, that makes the car not exactly drive to the track and forget it though, since you'd have to adjust fuel pressure and probably you'd be raising your boost level as well.

Ohhhhhhh, gotcha. My turbo was sticky and WD40 freed it up instantly, maybe it would help?

I'm planning to get one too, mostly due to price, and man they are big! Even if they cost a little efficiency vs another, you could always save up for a better one in the future, and it is a pretty hefty savings over a $200-$400 setup, in the meanwhile.

Oh Len, the ID of the exaust (pipe after the downpipe) is 2 3/8", so I guess the OD of the slip on cat is 2 1/4"ish, obviously the cat is not being used...

Sucks man... Len had me pull the downpipe and exaust before we pulled the engine, there were 4 studs FWIW.

They are 370cc I believe instead of the uhh, 260-270cc stockers. That may end up being enough to put them a bit rich on a stock setup, meaning stinky and black down low. Before you went that route, I think a better pump and a rising rate regulator would be suggested. But I'm new ot the turbo cars, so feel free to search and listen to more experienced opinions.

HK BOV RIGHT CLICK to save it, dont play it from the location, 6 megs http://docmudge.tripod.com/ratedZ.mov

Oh crud, that is coming off the + terminal right now, from the length of the cable I thought it was positive, plus the red and green wires, damn Nizzan wiring. The one I'm using for - on the battery right now is black with a yellow stripe, which on the rest of the harness I thought was ground. I'll take a closer look and swap those I guess, since you say use the stock + it sounds like I have these backwards, oops.

Ok, I tried that one too with a relay, so perhaps my problem is something else (maybe computer not getting juice). Actually they both use similar connectors, then again I had an N42 on the 240Z so maybe that would be why. I have another N42 thermo housing with the connections on it and I forget how they are different, but only in that there are I believe two extra connections, like the water temp sender appears in the thermo housing on the N42 where the P90 looks to be between 5/6 cylinders(?) I figured it would just run rich without the temp sensor hooked up, kind of like an open loop on a modern car, but I will try to hook that stuff up also. There is a male bullet and female bullet on the thermo housing currently though, I'm not sure if what goes there comes off the coil harness or if I didnt route something I should have. Oooooooooook, there is a module that looks similar to the GM HEI thing except its all metal, I think its 3 or 4 pronged, that is probably it. I will check on that! Ok, the -| plug is hooked up from the NEW harness but I did not splice in the old one, and that was popping in my head this morning. Its a tight reach there so thats why I didn't cut things up, I will setup a spade hookup so I can branch them together and hook them up. There is another connector in the same region of harness about 6" closer to the firewall that has the same darn connector, and I dont know what its for, it has black shielding but from the rest of the wiring I think I am using the correct one. Thanks for the help dude, I thought you were in Vegas this week. I do have the starter correct, it cranks great, just wont fire, maybe its my FI. The set of connectors coming off the + battery term is missing one 2 prong male connection to it and I dont see any two prong males on the harness like this, it would be a | | pattern which is also abnormal from the other -| type stuff. This is the box with the green and red wires, which I think is what you are calling a fusible link (dont even know what that is, I expected a fuse...) Anywho, yeah it seems close, thats why I stayed up later to try and get it right, just no go, hopefully tonight. I will definately call if I can't get something going.

Part of my problem I think stems from routing all my wiring through the passenger side. From what I can tell though there are only two branches that could be suspect for being the coil side of things, as for the distributor well unfortunately there are two wires with no home and one male spade waiting for someone to make contact. Maybe its my computer that is somehow not getting juice, guess I will have to look closer at this as well.

When was TV good in the first place? Until about a year ago I didn't watch TV for 4 years, no reason too. Even educational TV went to crap, I watch History Chan, Speed and a few others now, sometimes I plain forget to turn it on.

There is unfortunately no way to answer the question and be assured that you will agree it is "the best." Purpose of the car and personal preference will be the main things you need to look at, I like stiff suspensions where many people gasp at it being uncomfortable, but I prefer it that way and find it just fine, so opinions will vary greatly.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm That will take care of the early Z cars, it should be easy to identify R200 vs R230. As for the R200 vs R180 there are several ways to compare them, I find it easiest to feel on top of the diff cover over the moustache bar, if its flat its an R180, if you have 2 humps its an R200.

Got the fuel pump done, using the stereo to trigger the relay. I get spark when turning the key towards off, but I do not get a constant spark when I am turning it over. I unfortunately did not look at how the coil was wired in the other car, nor did I label it because it looked obvious (mistake). I am fairly certain I am using the correct part of the harness (somewhat tough to get wrong), but the complete coil wiring is a myster to me. There is a 2 prong connector below the coil which is shorted to itself, yet has both the ground and positive coil wire going to it, so this I assume is the resistor? On the distributor there is a 4 lead connection, that is hooked up to the harness. There is also however a single prong connection and I dont know what its for or where it goes, it is at the base of the dis of course. Other than the coil connection to dis, and spark plug connections that is the only remaining one without a home. Unfortunately on the same part of the harness there are two connectors with no home, I am thinking they may be for the water pump, one is a male "round-spade" type connection, the other has no connector on it (broken). The broken wire was yellow and I think the male plug was black but I am braindead right now. So basically the distributor and coil are in question for me right now, the fuel pump works. I suppose its also possible that the injectors are dead, dont know. I think the rest of the wiring is ok but I will check tomorow of course, spent a couple hours trying to figure out the dis/coil thing and just no go. If anyone has pictures of wiring in these areas or wiring diagrams that would be great, I will go through the book again to see if I can get some kind of understanding from it. This is an 82 setup, so the "crank sensor" is in the dis.

If you get desperate and can't get them out of the block, I have one available.

I get spark when turning the key towards off, but I do not get a constant spark when I am turning it over. I unfortunately did not look at how the coil was wired in the other car, nor did I label it because it looked obvious (mistake). I am fairly certain I am using the correct part of the harness (somewhat tough to get wrong), but the complete coil wiring is a myster to me. There is a 2 prong connector below the coil which is shorted to itself, yet has both the ground and positive coil wire going to it, so this I assume is the resistor? On the distributor there is a 4 lead connection, that is hooked up to the harness. There is also however a single prong connection and I dont know what its for or where it goes, it is at the base of the dis of course. Other than the coil connection to dis, and spark plug connections that is the only remaining one without a home. Unfortunately on the same part of the harness there are two connectors with no home, I am thinking they may be for the water pump, one is a male "round-spade" type connection, the other has no connector on it (broken). The broken wire was yellow and I think the male plug was black but I am braindead right now. So basically the distributor and coil are in question for me right now, the fuel pump works. I suppose its also possible that the injectors are dead, dont know. I think the rest of the wiring is ok but I will check tomorow of course, spent a couple hours trying to figure out the dis/coil thing and just no go. If anyone has pictures of wiring in these areas or wiring diagrams that would be great, I will go through the book again to see if I can get some kind of understanding from it. This is an 82 setup, so the "crank sensor" is in the dis.

Thanks! Ignition may be a sticking point (I had GM HEI before), fill the trans, wire & mount the pump (half way done), cross over ignition hookup to new harness, hookup the linkage (may be missing a peice or two), fill rad with water and bleed the system, and then start chasing down all these -open- vacuum lines. There is also something else which looks like an adjustable vacuum thing or something, from near the AFM area and I'm not sure what it is, but I'll find out eventually I suppose.

I have this info, I think the car will run tonight, I should find out within 1-2 hours.