Mudge

They should be top/bottom, I dont think its even critical which is which, but I will look at mine tomorow and verify. All this does is blow air through the Opti to try and avoid corrision, which the 94 and earlier had a problem with, besides a CRAPPY seal in the back (almost nothing really, splined shaft didn't block enough).

Sweet! I have a wiring diagram, if you dont already have a book.

Got it compressed alot more, but it looks crappy reducing it to the physical pixel size required for the gallery.

Crap, scratch that - fusible links on the wiring diagram are ++++++++

Frig! Someone sent me an 83 snapshot of the wiring diagram for the ECCS, this will help me big time. It is a large file and I can't get it under 680kB (JPG) even in gray scale, so if anyone needs it I can email it gladly, but can't post it in the gallery unless I compress the snot out of it.

Nah, just use anyhing, all it is there for is to run air through the thing to keep it dry, hopefully. So just pick something that fits, get some long vacuum line and that should work fine, figure on 5 feet total and cut it in half, but measure it yourself so you know how much you need for sure. You do have a connector for your opti right? I forget what year your donor stuff is, the 95 though needs a different connector than the early opti, unless you break part of the opti to hook it up. I can take a pic of this if needed, it is just a small extention that plugs into the harness, the 95 one just has a longer connector, by something like 3/4"

You could always use steel bent pipe, OR if you dont mind the labor, you can take a 1 1/8" socket to take off the oil cooler altogether. You will need however, the threaded "pipe" part that holds the filter off of your 240 engine, if you still have it. The only things holding the oil cooler in place is a small bolt (12mm I think) and the 2 hugh jass 1 1/8" which holds the lines in place also. The manual I got was a Clymer, I've heard good things about it, but who knows, its all I could find. I am poking through Zcar.com bugeyed, but I really want to get this fargin thing sorted out, I can't be too far away (???) its been 2 weeks now. I posted a thread requesting a wiring diagram if anyone has a scanned copy somewhere, so far no luck, still going through archives though. The swap sounds fargin easy but I am missing something, ACC still gets hot for some reason? I dont see any shorts, so I'm somewhat lost. One clue I have to look after, is my donor was an automatic, there are safeties in the automatic to keep it from running apperantly, like the seatbelt must be on, and some "inhibited switches," the only diagrams I have go up to I think 78. I have about 17 threads open on the computer right now to look at, one of which is to try and figure out my ignition since I am possibly missing things. http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ZXPertronix.htm http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=338375&t=338311 http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=259574&t=259449 http://www.zcar.com/forums/read.php?f=1&i=287037&t=286920 Back to ma readin'.

DB, how goes the swap? I'm still stuck in my own wiring hell. What wiring are you stuck on at the moment? The fusible link from the old battery cabling goes to negative on the battery BTW, although maybe you've already covered that.

Still stuck in wiring hell. ACC (the center fuseable link) still cooks I scored a book off eBay, but I dont imagine I'll get it till mid-late next week.

Guy, water pump routing is really simple on the pass side. Top hose goes to the top hose on the rad, part of this is an aluminum tube (on the stock car), kind of like the oil cooler on the ZXT. Bottom hose goes to the bottom part of the heater box, I assume that the top one is feed and bottom is return, but I dont know that for sure. Should be very easy to find out, especially if your using an electric pump, just turn it on and see where water exits. Did the opti stuff make sense? There is a small rubber 1.5" or so extention on one of the Opti connections itself, which then has a male fitting. I have a spare opti laying around so I can scribble it if need be.

I've gotten a couple breaks myself, usually that is enough to keep me thankfull for awhile and not f around. Generally on the street I dont do anything anymore, once in awhile on a freeway onramp however, fair game Kinda like this http://para.noid.org/~lj/Fun/fun.wmv except not as much power 8)

Yep, I've got the green relay, it still will turn but will not fire or give power to the ECU yet, so I need to cover the other open wires and see if I might even have something crossed, due to ACC seeming to freak out. This is an 82 setup in a 73 240.

Looks like I was incorrect to assume power was on that 2 lead to the ECU, at least I think so. Black shorts to black/white on the 5 prong connector mentioned earlier, as well as 2 approximately 8 guage wires that are white, on the same basic wiring harness strand. I dont yet know what the green wire shorts to, wasn't able to get a blip on the radar with anything. I think I may have seen an ECU pinout somewhere, so I'm going to try to find that. 4 days to Laguna, still hoping to make it.

Ok, here is what I found out. The EGI relay you describe (4 wire) I already have in place, I had a black relay there (probably plugged it in myself), but the wires match, so I'll throw the green one on there anywho. This other connector, did have a white wire, it was so faded/old/dirty it looked yella, I figured that would not make sense but couldn't tell in the light at the time, oops. I have a connector all by its lonesome, 2 prong coming off the ECU that has green and black wires (2), so this sounds like my power input! I wired up my own fuel relay already, so that part is taken care of. You really helped me out here Bryan, mucho appreciado!

Yep, I saw a special on History channel on the whole thing, it is CRAZY, it seems like 90% of the citizenry there is sitting at a computer, or telephone all day long trying to scam people, truly discusting to think people like that exist only to prey on others, ruin their lives, and sometimes kill them.

I know, you are right, I'm looking at a Kirkey Intermediate or maybe a Corbeau etc etc, I have Acura Integra 89 or 90 seats right now, they are definately nicer than stock, cushy, but a little too much padding and a bit tall to start with.

Mark, I know, I got it after a little while

Yeah, it is pretty obviously shady, banking on the fact that people "dont oft read." The guy could have easily had a buy it now price of $19.99 or whatever and obviously does not want that either.

That post looks like from our own Ian from SoCal. Thanks for the stuff Moby/Bryan, I will check that out tonight in about 45m or so after some food. I believe I have 2 yellows, but a yellow/white would be an easy one not to spot, doh. I will make sure to get some light on it to hopefully ensure I have the right stuff to work with, since it plugs into the fusible link, I am fairly certain, I can always track these locations with the multimeter too if something looks wrong. I'll report back tonight!

Well, what exactly is "fitting with no problem," I know my definition is not the same as everyone elses. Eventually you must compromise seat position, and on a track that really bites. I need to get a seat with much less wasted space (aka cushion) on the bottom, so that I dont have to tilt my seat so far back when I put my helmet on, I am one click beyond where I'd prefer to be, AND I'm still hitting the ceiling. My Camaro is the same way almost, although I have T tops so those come off on track days.

Once the spacer is off you will need to grease/oil the pilot a bit, and get it as close to level as you can, and bang it in carefully. I just did the swap recently and the donor turbo car was an automatic.

On the opti itself the tubes just slip on, whichever looks right, go for it. The connection in the TB ducting, being just a hole, is awaiting a MALE. The one going to the intake is a female waiting to accept a male T fitting, this is above the PCV valve. I'll look at the water pump routing in an hour or so, on the stock heater box there are two different sized hoses, so inlet/outlet is impossible to screw up.

If the voltage is going up even at idle, then I guess it is sufficient RPM to drive the alternator, some cars do some dont. Usually its automatics that dont have enough RPM at idle to charge the battery. If everything is connected, and your grounds are good, then I would think the alternator to be fine from the sounds of what your saying. Have you tried driving around at night with the lights on? That will eat the battery fairly quickly, if it isn't charging, but with the voltage coming up it sounds like its charging just fine. There is some chance that the battery itself is no good, even though relatively new. Some batteries, especially if "abused" by being run low etc build up crud between the plates that effects power output, I believe the fluid inside can also sludge up, but if the battery is holding charge fine then I wouldn't suspect it probably. If you have been driving the car for more than a few days without yanking the battery and putting it on a dedicated charger, then I really dont think its the battery or alternator.

The connector that goes to my fusible link (off a branch that is), and is what I believe to be the relay spot, is like so: blue/red stripe| Black/white st | | <-Green Yellow solid .. | | <-Yellow It looks like black/white goes to the diz? (crank position sensor on 81, but mine is 82), I will test with the multi later. Yellow/yellow I am not sure at this point, maybe signal, or maybe CPS is somehow my signal, dunno. Green and blue/red I think go to fusible link (power source), maybe its even black/red and I am blind. Now, on the 81 diagram which I have, it shows 6 wires but also shows the same 2-lead fusible link which is identical to what I'm working with, although I only have 5 wires. Thier wires are: Red, BW, B, BW, Brown, Green.

I'm thinking starter, heat soak shouldn't be a problem since there is no exaust routing near the starter, but they can go bad. The alternator is easy to rule out, with a multimeter running, raise the RPMs and see if your voltage raises as well. Good luck