Mudge

http://www.homestarrunner.com/sbemail36.html

4 years ago? Ohhhhhhh brother, what a dumbass.

A completely custom computer? How much did that run!? DFI can be had fairly inexpensively nowdays, if money was no object I guess I'd go with one of the FAST system loaded with upgrades.

LoL give me a break, yeah the guys that cant afford them or the practical woman buys a V6 Mustang, not someone that wants to go fast. There are V6 Camaros in the 12s NA, I dont know if there are any faster out there, since thats not exactly what I salivate over.

feguru I and some others I'm sure would love to know what you did to the body. There are a good number of folks who fry automatics at speed, sounds like your doing ok with it. Plus I dont like how the rear end feels with an automatic, but if its working and you like it, stick with it. I thought about the 240Z at Silver State, which means I'd eventually want to try unlimited (I think, after a few years), and I just wasn't really sure that this was the car to do it in, so, I'd like to know your setup and see some pix of your body work

If you haven't bought the clutch already, consider an LT4 clutch/PP setup, or just stock LT1 stuff, or stock replacement like Luk which is supposedly better than stock. A plain jane clutch held my HP just fine, they dont suck. LS1 clutches on the other hand dont have that same reputation, but still plenty of folks use the stocker just fine, OR a reconditioned one for not much dough which can be plated with whatever materials you request by sending in your unit to be repadded.

Well, there has to be a point of reasonable cost here, eventuall upgrades can be done, but if I "need" a $900 intercooler right off the bat than its LT1/T56 here I come. So, feedback is of course welcome especially since I'm not in the know on this stuff, it sounds doable with a single intercooler and race gas on the track, and have even hear of a 13 PSI guy with no intercooler so far I wont be trying that I dont think, but I need to look at the options and what is reasonably doable here without breaking the bank or the engine.

I hope you know your tuning, 10.25:1 with a blower = must be carefull, you going to run an intercooler? If it didn't cost so damn much I'd be tempted to run a blower too, it is becoming more and more tempting in fact, just think, it would be like having a worked over Viper engine in the car..... wow Huge TQ and HP everywhere, oh baby.

www.gaspricewatch.com I just payed $1.97 a gallon for 87, for the Z at a 76 station. Its as low as $1.85 if I buy MTBE crud.

Yeah, I imagine the guy is about on blood pressure medication sometimes LoL Nearly burning the fence down? That is not cool. Plus the nice permanent burn marks period, if the guy built his own fence or not I'd be pissed. As for the neighbor wanting to do chicken wire? ............. $250k house probably, and $50 of chicken wire??? OMG ROFL

When the next caller and most of thier callers have a 10-15k order though, you become less important.

200 RWHP would be a starter goal (230/240 crank), I figure I'd tear the engine down and freshen it up first so that I dont have to worry about sealing and such, and then go from there.

Those big arse wheel/tires aren't going to help yeah As for a street car, if your not dragging it I think it should be fine. The lame 7.5" stuff in the 4th gen cars works fine with 17x11"s under most circumstances, its drag racing that kills them.

The CSI can save about 10 HP depending on RPM, the stock pump doesn't flow quite as much as the CSI, at what RPM it would I dont know but so far as I know its beyond 7k which we can't run on a stock PCM anyway. Plus it removes some stress from the cam, thats a good thing. The Center Force is nicknamed the Center-Farce, there are some other nicknames for it too, lots of problems with those clutches, I hope they have fixed them by now. Basically, they never fit, the early solution was to use an extremely thick and heavy flywheel which is a real POS solution, then people were shimming them, but they were basically poorly setup and people were blowing them up and having various issues. Like I said, I hope they fixed these problems by now. Valve cover gaskets dont really need to be replaced, but when money is no object... shiny new plastic is nice, same with the bolts, overkill. Thermostat is up to you, is it cold as heck in your area? If so stick with stock, or a 180º, I believe stock is 190 or 195. If you live in a moderate climate or whatever, 160º is great IMO, I see about 179º daily driving, but fan points is another thing as well. Rods are good to about 550 HP, getting into the 10s and they start bending. Rods were not one of the strong points of these engines, but I ran 7k RPM and nearly 500 HP just fine. I have a site somewhere that lists what is what in what year car, I will have to dig it up. Frankly though, your going way overkill here, are you doing 4 bolt main or is this a Vette block? I'd go overkill on that before rods, you will NOT break the rods, but high RPM will appreciate some nice stability in the bottom. Some pumps include the pickup stuff some dont, the ones that do often are not welded on and you must do this, if you just press fit them, they can fall off. STOCK PUMP IS FINE in my eyes, but whatever fits your fancy, again I think your going overkill , which is not totally a bad thing, if you have the moola. Most people seem to like the Milodan stuff, with a welded pickup. I'll try to find the LT1 parts differences site when I can.

I heard they are going to start launching VWs with explosives since they are cheaper than bombs.

I had a bit less than 500 HP (with an ignition miss) in my LT1/T56, and it was streetable with 3.42s in a 3450 pound car. Put that thing in a car weighing a thousand pounds or so less, and it will rock AND be streetable. I think the poster is leaning towards a V8, and if your not doing the work yourself then you'd spend so much on a hot NA L6 that a V8 would look quite delicious IMO, hot L6 can be very, very pricey. Turbo or V8 for 'real' power, not that even 225 is a slouch in a 2200 pound car! For those of us though that think fast is 11 seconds or better...

Sounds awesome man, if the time is right then definately keep a good job in mind, 2 hours is not much a move at all! Good luck and keep on truckin'

Crap, I'd be on blood pressure medication by now.

http://www.knology.net/~carlos/redneck.htm

I'm thinking seriously about a turbo again, thanks Leonard With that in mind, if I have to run race gas on the track that is NOT a big deal at all, almost every track will have at least 100 octane on hand (I can always bring Tolulene or try to find something better if needed), and for the street since I'll be staying out of boost for the most part, extended duration wise anyway, it looks doable. However, what intercooler setup has proved usefull so far? From a GN? Stringing two of ___ IC together? Volvo? Just looking for input, but I think this is the way to go. A 60-1 sounds awesome, but I am a bigtime turbo-newbie, and huge power is not a concern at least right off the bat, for starters I'd look at plenty of torque band and something over 200 RWHP.

Some people use EGTs, but I dont know hardly a thing about them. With that, a wideband is going to cost you around $300+ depending on options. If you compare it to hours and hours of dyno time though, it could save you money, especially if you use it on more than one car. Only thing is going WOT in fourth gear on the street isn't going to be all that legal...

True, but gas costs money, even for crappy stuff $5 a gallon doesn't make a street car IMO, but that depends on the goals I suppose. I ran 11.4:1 with a reverse cooled LT1, but that allows for some more compression (rev cooled). I still though wasn't able to be as aggressive with low end timing as I wanted, I had it pulling MADLY off idle but was getting pinging and had to back it off. I could not find a magic cell to work with without the ping 91 MTBE, garbage. I think I'm going turbo, if I have to run race gas on the track its no big deal, intercooler should be fine on the street with street gas.

That is monsterous torque, L98 like, but us LT1 guys will never see those kind of numbers without a mean solid roller or a blower. There was an L98 stroker, 373 RWHP and 490 RWTQ, NA 383! No HP but gobs of TQ.

What a bunch of dried up old BIDDIES, I bet they would feel offended and wronged if you called them a liar to thier face.

My own twin tip muffler, exits a few inches out of the back of the body, about to the bumper area. I can take a pic and measure if you like, I get fumes.